Fighting the slave-hunters in Central Africa;

* JUN 231910 *,

DT35I

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FIGHTING THE SLAVE-HUNTERS
IN CENTRAL AFRICA

A Well-kept Village

The native on the left has bought a new garment and fez, showing he has adopted Moham-
medanism. He is carrying a ladder of the kind used all over Africa for getting on to huts. The
man on the right is carrying a piece of sugar-cane. A flat stone for grinding rice is on the left.
F rom the tree the seed for next year is suspended to preserve it from rats and white ants.

* JUN 23 1910 *

FIGHTING THE^.,---^^
SLAVE-HUNTERS IN^
CENTRAL AFRICA

A RECORD OF
TWENTY-SIX YEARS OF TRAVEL ^ ADVENTURE
ROUND THE GREAT LAKES

AND OF

THE OVERTHROW OF TIP-PU-TIB, RUMALIZA
AND OTHER GREAT SLAVE-TRADERS

v'

ALFRED J. SWANN

Late Senior Resident Magistrate of the Nyasaland Protectorate
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY

SIR H. H. JOHNSTON, G.C.M.G., K.C.B.

With 45 Illustrations ^ a Map

PHILADELPHIA
J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
LONDON : SEELEY AND CO. LIMITED
I910

Printed by Ballanttne, Hanson 6» Co.
At the Ballantyne Press, Edinburgh

INTRODUCTION

THE Africa about which Mr. Swann writes — as I think,
with such absorbing interest — has already passed into
history, the history which is least read because it is that
of yesterday.

The conditions of East Africa twenty-five to twenty years
ago are so extraordinarily different to the appearance and
conditions of life in that region at the present day, that it
might ahiiost be thought Mr. Swann was writing not of
experiences within the limit of the life of a man of middle
age, but of some remoter period coeval with Livingstone and
Cameron. Indeed, the East Africa first seen by Mr. Swann
(and by the writer of this preface) was not a whit changed
from the East Africa through which Burton, Speke, Grant,
and Thomson struggled to find great lakes, vaguely rumoured
rivers, and in their quest first beheld many a strange beast
and extraordinary human tribe new to science.

We have too easily and readily forgotten the East Africa

known to Livingstone, and the Arab slave-trade has become

a vague legend, possibly disbelieved in to a great extent by

the somewhat cynical white men who now swarm over Tropical

Africa and say to us weary ones of those pioneer days: "I

can't see what you beggars made such a fuss about. The

Arabs seem to me a devilish good lot of people, quite easy

to get on with ; and if they did come down rather hard on

v

INTRODUCTION

the nigger for not working, why, it was all for the nigger's
good. And I don'*t call it half a bad kind of country —
splendid shooting — why, I got such and such a bag in so
many days with my (quoting the latest invention in rifles
and soft-nosed or explosive bullets). Talk of dying of thirst
in such and such a desert ! What rot ! Why, there''s an
artesian well at the principal rest-house, and you can get
awfully good iced drinks and perfect lager beer at all the
stores in Unyamwezi. Besides, how can you be much bothered
by this particular piece of route when you can bicycle sixty
miles in a day in the dry season, to say nothing of motoring.
Why you should ever have been ill, / can't think. . . .
Absolute pleasure trip to me." And so forth, and so on.

Perhaps Mr. Swann's book (which I sincerely hope may be
widely read) may enable people who care to follow closely the
history of African development to realise in the first place
what the Arab slave-trade was like, and why it so concerned
the minds of Livingstone, of the early missionaries, of several
consuls, and of trading associations like the African Lakes
Company, which could not wholly divest themselves of human
feelings.

Mr. Swann's book will also give you the romance of East

Africa before it became tourist-trodden and vulgarised. This

quality is irrecoverable. Just as the once beautiful English

scenery is passing away under our eyes in favour of corrugated

iron, paper-strewn roads and lanes, red-brick villas, pollarded

beeches, incongruous rhododendron shrubberies, excellent but

ugly factories, flashy hotels in lieu of old-world inns, and

asphalt esplanades in place of a pleistocene shingle, so the

Africa of Mr. Swann's days, with its unlimited and even

dangerous wild beasts, its men and women just emerging from

the Age of Stone, the Ny'ika innocent of eucalyptus groves,

dense forests scarcely altered since the Miocene, Man at his

vi

INTRODUCTION

most barbarous and most heroic (this last applies to the
white pioneers) has disappeared in favour of railways, motors,
telegraphs, negroes that are drilled in European fashion,
prosperous mission-schools and technical institutes, the bang,
bang, bang of the slaughtering British sportsman, the lisping
accents of the lady traveller who is trying to write a book
about Africa in a four months' tour (lapped in luxury as she
passes from one hospitable station to another), the Africa of
the cinematograph and the gramophone records, of fashion-
able diplomacy, highly trained administrators, royal guests,
and banished malaria.

Of course, the real truth is that Africa is becoming more
interesting than ever, the problems more complex, the history
of its past — its distant past — better and better known, the
condition of its native inhabitants far, far and away happier
than in the times of which Mr. Swann writes.

His own part in bringing about that happiness has been

considerable. He took an even larger share than he relates

(of his modesty) in curbing the Arab slave-trade round about

the shores of Tanganyika. He believed — and I think with

justification — that a British Protectorate over many of these

regions would be of vast benefit to the indigenous people.

Therefore, when I met him on the south shore of Lake

Tanganyika in 1889, and told him that I was prevented by

serious complications in Nyasaland from pursuing my original

plan of carrying the British flag (allied with the necessary

treaties) right through from the north end of Tanganyika

to Uganda (so as to complete the Cape-to-Cairo route), Mr.

Swann agreed, when furnished with the necessary authority,

to complete this section. With the assistance of my Swahali

head-man, Ali Kiongwe (who is now living on a small

Government pension at Zanzibar), he completed the scope of

British treaties at the north end of Tanganyika, which, had

vii

INTRODUCTION

they been all ratified by the British Government, would have
given to the British Empire (without robbing anybody else)
a continuous all-British route from Cape Colony to Egypt,
on the assumption, of course, that the waters of Tanganyika
were free to all nations.

H. H. Johnston.

viii

AUTHOR'S PREFACE

THE following pages contain my recollections of twenty-
six years spent in Africa. They have been written at
the repeated request of colleagues of various nationalities,
with whom, in the years 1882-1909, I travelled and laboured
in Central Africa, co-operating with them in the work of
undermining, and finally destroying, the Slave-Trade around
the great lakes.

The thrilling stories of explorers and missionaries had
appealed to my natural love of travel and adventure, and fired
me with an ambition to follow such men as Livingstone,
Stanley, Burton, Schweinfurth, and others, and to help
in healing what Livingstone called " Africa'*s open sore.'**
When I went out in 1882 the great partition of Africa had
not taken place, and the hideous trade was at its worst.
Caravans froni the interior brought thousands of slaves to
the East Coast, and left thousands dead upon the road.

Lakes Nyasa, Tanganyika, and Victoria Nyanza were in the
hands of Arab and native slave-traders, and beyond a patrol —
admittedly unsatisfactory — of portions of the East Coast,
nothing much was being done to crush the accursed ti'affic
which was eating out the heart of Africa. For twenty- six
years I was able to take part in the determined efforts for its
suppression which were then made, and to fill a place in the
ranks of those African pioneers whose deeds had kindled my
ambition. I earnestly hope that my experiences may bring
encouragement to some whom a love of justice and liberty is
spurring on to fresh exertions on behalf of those tribes in Africa
which have not yet been delivered from the curse of slavery.

AUTHOR'S PREFACE

So many years of labour and anxiety have naturally been
diversified by many adventures, both of travel and sport,
the narratives of which may not, I hope, be found unin-
teresting.

At the close of my career in Africa, I should wish to place
on record my great admiration for other pioneers, American,
German, French, Belgian, and Portuguese, whom I met, and
with whom I worked, and who vied with my own countrymen
in a healthy, courteous, and vigorous competition to advance
civilisation in their respective Spheres of InflQence.

All the photographs here reproduced are copyright, and
my grateful acknowledgments are due to the owners for their
permission to use them. In preparing these pages for the
press, I have been most ably assisted by Miss Bennett of
Tarring, Worthing, without whose co-operation the task
would not have been undertaken, and to whom sincere thanks
are rendered.

A. J. S.

Worthing, Sussex,
January 1910.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

PAGE

Arrival at Zanzibar — Preparations for the Journey . 19

CHAPTER II

Porters and their Loads — The Long March to Lake
Tanganyika commenced — An Amusing Incident — The
Charm of African Life — Insight into Native Char-
acter . . . . 25

CHAPTER III

^ Cruelties of the Slave-Trade — Major Von Wissmann —
Difficulties of the Road — ''Pay or Fight" — Loyal
Service — A Narrow Escape — The Mighty Mirambo —
Native and Lion ........ 48

CHAPTER IV

A Greedy Ferryman — Fetish — Ujiji and Lake Tanganyika
--^Livingstone and Stanley — A Whited Sepulchre —
Ivory and Slaves — Launching a Canoe — »The People
of the Plain ........ 68

CHAPTER V

Opposition of the Natives — Launch of the " Morning
Star" — Tip-pu-Tib — The Lofu River — Building a
Steam Vessel — A Tragedy — Rugaruga Bullies . . 81

CHAPTER VI

Fire and Sword — A Sceptical Native — An Angry Hippo-
potamus— Launch of the " Good News " — Medicine
AND Surgery — A Cruel Punishment — A Native Duel:
Its Tragic Result ....... 98

xi

CONTENTS

CHAPTER VII

PAGE

A Diplomatic Scramble — Manna — The Amambwi — Unplea-
sant Visitors . . . . . . . . 1 15

CHAPTER VIII

Navigating the Shire River — Blantyre — Ramakukane —

Game and Fish — Shupanga . . . . . .135

CHAPTER IX

A Visit to England — A Sailor's Blow — Charles Stokes —
Germans and Arabs — Encounter with Masai — V/hite
Man's Medicine — Warnings. . . . . .150

CHAPTER X

Shooting Giraffes — A Cool Reception — A Visit to Ruma-
LizA — Tip-pu-TiB — Anger of Rumaliza — Hostilities
Commenced — Congo State Officials — Emin Pasha . l67

CHAPTER XI

Captain Trivier — Game Pits — An Annexation — The
Walungu Marriage Customs — ^The Curse of the
People 185

CHAPTER XII

Making Treaties — Hunting the Hippopotamus — Boiling
Springs — Religious Views — A Nugget — Scenery of
Lake Tanganyika — A Native Regatta . . . 203

CHAPTER XIII

The People of the Tanganyika — The Cannibal — The
Warundi — A Conjurer — The Fauna of the Rusizi —
Attacked by Leopards — A Storm on the Lake —
Swamped . . . . . . . . .221

xii

CONTENTS

CHAPTER XIV

I

Salving the Boat — A Great Disappointment — Trouble
WITH THE Arabs — A Mischievous Monkey — An Act
OF Revenge ......... t

CHAPTER XV

General Unrest — Storming Stockades — Rumaliza the
Slave-Trader

CHAPTER XVI

The Potentialities of the African — Suppression of raid-
ing— Children's Games — -Analysing the Native Char-
acter ..........

CHAPTER XVH

Big-Game Hunting — A Wild Trip across Nyasa — An
Eclipse — A Memorable Interview ....

CHAPTER XVIH

Bishop Maples — Capture of Mwasi's Stronghold — Infantile
Mortality .........

CHAPTER XIX
Wonderful Industrial Development .....

CHAPTER XX
Traits of Character — Resources of the Country

INDEX 355

Xlll

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A Well-Kept Village ..... Frontispiece

PAGB

The Author ........ 27

Porters Encamped ....... 37

A Dug-out Canoe 51

A Method of Securing Slaves . . . . .51

African Mimicry ........ 63

In the Wake of the Slave-Raiders .... 63

Fetish Idols 71

An African Path through High Grass . . .71

A Slave-Dhow ........ 83

The ** Morning Star " at Anchor .... 83

A Cannibal ..... .... 93

A Thorough Scoundrel ...... 93

SS. "Good News" 103

Tropical Creepers and an Elephant Path . .103

A Medicine Man at Work ..... 109

A Village in Making 117

xiv

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Aemba Mutilations . . . . . . .117

A Medicine Man 125

A Pot of Beer ........ 125

A Game-Trap 131

Native Porters . . . . . . . . 131

A Village Belle . . . . . . . . 1 3,9

A Village in the Open Country . . . .155

Pounding Maize into Flour . . . . .181

A Marriage Procession . . . . . .195

Male and Female Fashions in Hair-Dressing . .199
Lake Fishermen and Canoes ..... 209

A Native Smelting Furnace . . . . .213

An Elaborately Carved Pipe ..... 223

Drying Fishing Nets above the Sand . . . 223
Blacksmiths at Work ....... 227

Elaborately Carved Drums 251

Head-dress of Aemba Girl ...... 257

A Typical African Stockade ..... 263

Gathering Honey ....... 267

Girls at Play ........ 285

Brick Making 285

Masterly Inactivity ....... 293

WicKERWoRK Baskets for Catching Fish . . . 305

XV

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Building a Fort ........ 325

A Beautiful Native-built Cathedral . . . 325
Basket-Work ........ 335

The Dawn of Civilisation ...... 335

Death in the Family ....... 345

xvi

BRITISH CENTRAL AND EAST AFRICA

■■ V, o"

C. E K M AN

FIGHTING THE SLAYE-HUNTEHS
IN CENTRAL AFRICA

CHAPTER I

Arrival at Zanzibar — Preparations for the Journey

"Who will Volunteer for Central Africa?"

IT was in May, 1882, that I read the above words in a
journal published by the British and Foreign Sailors'
Society. The question was addressed to the public by
Captain Hore of the London Missionary Society. He was
about to proceed to Lake Tanganyika with a steel life-boat,
which he intended to transport in sections through East Africa,
on carts specially constructed for so great an undertaking ; for
it is 820 miles from the coast to Lake Tanganyika. There
are no roads, and the native paths leading from village to
village are too narrow for carts. However, it was not my
business to question the Captain's ability to overcome the
innumerable difficulties familiar to any one acquainted with the
writings of Livingstone and Stanley. My work was to respond
to the appeal if I wanted to take a hand in the opening up of
this part of Africa. Applicants were required to possess a
Board of Trade certificate as chief officer in the Mercantile
Marine, and to be willing to submit to an examination before
the rather formidable Board of Directors of the London
Missionary Society.

Having spent twelve years at sea on both steam and sailing
vessels, and possessing the necessary certificate, I at once wrote

19 B

ARRIVAL AT ZANZIBAR

and offered my services. In due course they were accepted by
the Society, and I was appointed second in command of the
expedition to Lake Tanganyika; afterwards to act as chief
officer in the marine department which we were going to
establish on the Lake.

The London Missionary Society had received a large dona-
tion from a supporter for the express purpose of commencing
mission work around the great Lake. As the undertaking was
certain to be an expensive one, it was decided to utilise the
more economical transport by water in order to get into close
contact with the tribes living along a coast line of 900 to 1000
miles.

Our expedition was organised to enable the Society to occupy
these regions. Captain Hore and myself were instructed to
transport the small life-boat and to build the S.S. Good News
as soon as it could be sent to us; to survey the Lake, and
to organise and maintain a regular mail service between
the Mission Stations and Zanzibar. Captain Hore did not
scruple to place before me the pros and cons of travelling in
Africa.

I had but a vague idea of the Interior. In one^s schooldays
the lessons on geography (when they happened to be about
Africa) were illustrated by a camel, a palm tree, mountains of
the moon (whatever they might be no one seemed to know),
with the Nile, Zambezi, and Congo Rivers, vaguely depicted as
rising somewhere in the heart of the great L^nknown. Living-
stone, Stanley, and others had, on the part of Britain and
America, made known to us the great facts that the In-
terior was not a desert, but inhabited by a large population
of coloured people — some more or less hostile to Europeans,
but the majority quite ready to respond to civil treatment
by strangers.

The great partition of Africa by the European Powers had
not yet taken place, and not one of the now great Protectorates
of East Africa, Uganda, and Nyasaland had become a part of

20

ARRIVAL AT ZANZIBAR

the British Empire. The whole of the East Coast and the
Interior was either in the hands of native chiefs, Arabs, or
Marima half-castes who had all one object, and whose ambition
was to sell and transport to the coast as many of the
inhabitants as they could possibly capture. It is true that
commanders of British gunboats and British officials at
Zanzibar did their utmost, with the limited powers at their
command, to bring pressure to bear on the Sultan of Zanzibar,
and to check the slave trade at the coast ; but none knew
better than themselves how inadequate were their combined
efforts. At best they only touched the very fringe of the
disease, which had its ramifications all over Equatorial Africa,
and its great centres far away up-country at Tabora, Ujiji,
Uganda, Kotakota, and the Upper Congo.

My youthful enthusiasm had been fired when I learned the
facts of slavery as set forth with noble humanity by Living-
stone, with manly disgust by Stanley, and pathetic emphasis
by the author of "Uncle Tom's Cabin,"" and I resolved, if
ever the opportunity offered, to join with niy countrymen in
an endeavour to crush the slave-trade.

My chance had arrived, and May 17, 1882, found me on
board a British-India Company's vessel bound for Africa. It
was in October of this year that Mr. (now Sir) Harry Johnston
first visited the Congo, and practically commenced his long
and well-known African career. Little did I imagine how very
much we should be thrown together in after years, or that
I should be privileged to take part in his successful adminis-
tration of Nyasaland.

Stirring events were taking place in North Africa as we
passed through the canal, for preparations were being made to
bombard Alexandria; the great men-of-war, like huge birds
of prey, were circling around the entrance to the Suez Canal.
We luckily passed through before the actual firing of the
80-ton guns of H.M.S. Inflexible began ; both ship and guns
are now practically obsolete.

91

ARRIVAL AT ZANZIBAR

IVIy fellow-passengers included Bishop Hannington, Ashe,
and Gordon of Uganda, each of them destined to play so
conspicuous a part in opening up Uganda to civilisation.
How well I recall Hannington ! His delightfully buoyant
spirits and optimistic character made all on board happy. I
little thought, as we played at chess together, that those eyes,
then so full of laughter, would soon be dimmed by tears shed,
not for himself, but for those very Africans to whose benefit
he had determined to devote his life and who, in their ignor-
ance, so cruelly imprisoned and murdered him. Such are the
perils to which the pioneers of civilisation are exposed in a
land of superstition, ignorance, and savagery, that not even
the attractive qualities of Hannington could save him from a
fate which has for ever stained the throne of Uganda, by the
sacrifice of one who would have been her best friend and
champion. The Buganda have long since realised the great
crime committed by their king. Tens of thousands of her sons
and daughters are to-day endeavouring to lead lives which the
great martyred missionary would have blessed.

In addition to the Church of England missionaries, there
were on board several belonging to the London Missionary
Society, most of whom ultimately lost their lives in the Interior
by disease, which has taken such a heavy toll amongst the
ranks of pioneers.

One other of our company met a violent death during the
great struggle between European and Arab for predominance
in Africa. This struggle was about to commence in real
earnest when we arrived at Zanzibar in June 1882. Wild as
our project appeared to many residing in Zanzibar, who
frankly told us we should never tramp that 820 miles to
Tanganyika, much less drag on wheels our steel life-boat
through roadless forests and plains, yet Mrs. Hore, who
had determined to accompany her husband, was not to be
frightened ; she declared that wherever it was prudent for her
husband to go, she saw no reason why she should be considered

22

ARRIVAL AT ZANZIBAR

unfit to accompany him. Brave words indeed — but braver
deeds followed their utterance; for her patient, tactful per-
severance never failed through innumerable trials, incon-
veniences, dangers, and sickness, and this brave Englishwoman
will be remembered as the first woman to make that wonderful
journey in Africa, and with her little son to reach the historic
shores of far-away Tanganyika.

It was at Zanzibar I first realised that Great Britain
was doing all she could to undermine the cruel slave-trade.
Although our eyes beheld men and women in chain-gangs
walking and working on the public roads, we knew that they
were not slaves, but in reality criminals who, for various
offences, were being punished in this manner; and that in
such a hot climate it was by far the most sanitary method of
dealing with prisoners, as they were permitted to enjoy the
open air and good exercise. Still, the sight of human beings
in neck-chains was, to say the least, repulsive to every one of
us who, no doubt, were too full of our mission of emancipation
to be capable of impartially analysing the local conditions
which influenced the rulers of this eastern island.

Zanzibar has been described so often that I will not weary
the reader by entering into details, except to say that, so far
as slavery was concerned, although it was not a legalised
custom to buy and sell slaves in the open market, yet thousands
were undoubtedly bought and sold both at Zanzibar and on
the East Coast. In fact, during our stay on the island, a
pirmace of H.M.S. London (which was then the Port guard-
ship) cut out and captured as a prize a large slave-dhow which
had anchored under the very shadow of the British Consulate —
so daring were the Arabs at this exceedingly profitable game.

We found Sir John Kirk pulling the strings of British
policy at Zanzibar, and so deftly were they handled that not
only was legalised slavery in the Sultan's dominion successfully
suppressed, but the valuable island was prevented from passing
into the hands of other Powers.

23

ARRIVAL AT ZANZIBAR

We heard much criticism of the manner in which Sir John
attacked the curse of Africa ; but people did not then realise
as they do now that, unless the matter had been handled with
great skill, the astute Arabs, with their natural love of intrigue
and avarice, might at any moment have foiled all Sir John*'s
attempts to get our flag established on the island, and that
there was nothing to prevent the Sultan handing over his
dominions to another Power.

W e were initiated into some of the delicate phases of this
political game, and thus somewhat put on our guard and
prepared for dealing with the powerful Arab lieutenants of
the Sultan who reigned supreme in those regions, far away
from either British diplomacy or British guns, to which we
were proceeding. In the midst of their vile operations it was
our fixed determination to live, and, in time, to undermine or
destroy their diabolical trade in human souls and bodies.
Looking back after a long struggle with the Arabs I can
understand and appreciate the enormous difficulties Sir John
Kirk had to overcome, and I can now measure more accurately
the services rendered to the Empire by the astute British
representative at the Sultan's Court in those early days.

We found real empire-building in progress at the coast.
To lay foundations for more work of the kind at the sources
of the slave-trade around the great lakes of the Interior was
our earnest intention. It was our greatest slimulus and sup-
port to know that behind us was the man who had been a
close companion in travel of the immortal Livingstone. No
one realises better than myself, that it is upon Sir John's
solid foundations that much of the present magnificent super-
structure has been erected.

There was little time for indulging in sentiment, no
inclination on any one's part either to exaggerate the task
before us or to minimise its difficulties. Whilst engaged in
the difficulties of preparing for a three months' tramp through
a more or less rough country, one became unconsciously

24

PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY

impregnated with ideas of caravan life. Our days were spent
in packing and repacking all kinds of collapsible utensils, too
often omitting from our calculations the stern fact that it
was not upon railway trucks our boxes were to be transported,
and therefore we must not think it of no consequence how
heavy they weighed ; for black men would have to plod along
day by day through dense grass, over mountains, through rivers
and swamps, with all these precious loads on their heads.

Our keen-eyed leader was not slow to bring us to our
senses by quietly asking us to try the weight ourselves.

It has been said, and with great truth, that one cannot
spend too much time in the careful preparation for a long
African journey, for so many valuable lives have been lost for
want of real necessaries.

The most difficult matter to us seemed to be to solve the
problem of carrying our cash, as in this instance it meant not
really cash (which of course was of no use to Central Africans !)
but calico, beads, brass, wire, salt, &c. &c.

We found it would be necessary to supply each porter
with two yards of unbleached calico per week in order that
he might buy food. Now, considering that we had to engage
about nine hundred porters, and that we should be at least
three months on the journey, it will be obvious that the
commissariat for the men alone amounted to a considerable
sum, and must form a large number of loads, each weighing
60 lbs., which is about the full load a man can carry over a
long distance, although the Wanyamwezi will often carry
75 lbs. of dead weight. It is astonishing how they do it day
after day — plodding on apparently without undue exhaustion
under the tropical sun. In addition to this formidable equip-
ment, we had to convey a year's provisions and the Moming
Star life-boat. This, being built of steel, was divided into
sections and laid bottom upwards on specially constructed
hand-carts, light and yet strong, made narrow in order to
minimise the cutting down of trees.

25

PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY

As the Captain and myself were sailors by profession, we
naturally considered there was nothing like good rope for wear
and tear, and we forthwith spliced sets of harness to fit three
men to drag the carts, one man being in the shafts. The first
touch of African humour enlivened us here, as we harnessed
our team of men for a trial run. They were standing ready
to move on with the yokes around their necks when a wag,
who was in the shafts, turned towards the crowd of onlookers
and, without a smile on his countenance, exclaimed : " Kweri ;
sasa mimi Punda,"" or, as we should put it, " Yes ! there is no
mistake about it, I am a donkey at last ! " The whole of us
burst into fits of laughter ; whilst the little black urchins, who
had assembled to see the fun, rolled over and over in the sandy
soil, imitating the well-known laughter of our four-footed
friends.

I could see by the man's face in the shafts that the ludicrous
situation in which he found himself had suddenly dawned on
his mind ; but, beyond the above exclamation, he was like the
costermonger who had " no words for it.'*'' To one totally
unacquainted with African porters and travel as I was, nearly
the whole of our preliminaries at Zanzibar were, to say the
least, extremely novel as well as fascinating. Those Europeans
who to-day land at Mombasa, purchase a railway-ticket, tip
a porter, and jump into an express train for Uganda with
scarcety a thought about their huge packages which are swung
by cranes on to the trucks in the rear, will scarcely realise
what it meant to start on such a journey then. I can even
now see the energetic Hannington literally jumping on the
contents of his box, so as to compel it to go into a space which
his mathematical mind could have easily proved with a few
figures to be a physical impossibility. One could hear the
various Europeans addressing to themselves such questions as
the following: —

" Must I really shave ? No ! I can leave this dressing-
case and use a waterproof bag ! "

26

PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY

" Boots ? Ah ! must have good boots, but those gaiters
are not necessary."

" Happy man ! " says the transport agent. " I hope you
may never want them ; but don't load yourself up with that
huge book ! Why, it must weigh several pounds."

" What is it ? Oh ! I must take it, even if I have to carry
it myself. It's a lot of back numbers of Punch!'''

A roar of laughter went up from his comrades. One more
grave than the rest suggested that " only light and necessary
articles ought to be carried."

" I don't care," replied the owner. " I contend that Punch
is exceedingly light and trifling,''''

With this appropriate repartee the British Jester was
jammed into the box ; and as I think of isolated camps, lonely
voyages, bitter disappointments, intense longings to hear my
own native tongue and to see a happy civilised face, I know
the young pioneer was right, and that he had packed the best
literary tonic, one which has hundreds of times brought me
back to my own land, and lifted me out of that desponding
state into which frequent attacks of malaria are at times apt
to plunge the most hardened traveller in the Tropics. What
I have just said will serve to emphasise the fact that in those
days every pound of weight had to be studied, as, besides the
actual expense of porterage, the number of men had to be
reduced to a minimum, seeing that for three months we had
to be responsible for their food, at times no little tax on the
meagre resources of the small native villages, in places many
miles distant from one another. The first great disappoint-
ment came to us as we learned that part of our vessel had
been left at Aden, and at least one month must elapse before
the next British-India vessel was due. However, as our party
consisted of missionaries proceeding to stations up-country,
and as it was only possible to travel in the dry season, it was
deemed advisable to make a start at once, and the sailors.
Captain Hore and myself, could " come back from Mamboia,"

29

PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY

which was said to be about 160 miles inland, and at that time
in charge of a missionary and his wife.

" Come back again ? " I replied, as I heard the decision.

" Don't come back ! some one shouted to me years before,
in London, as I went out to face the Board of Trade Examiner
at Tower Hill. I was returning at the time, having forgotten
something in my excitement. " It's unlucky,'' he continued,
" to come back."

Was this coming back a good or bad omen ? I experienced
neither good nor bad luck at Tower Hill ; but a very salt old
sea-captain of the Black Ball Line very nuich impressed me
with the stern fact that a practical knowledge of duty was
the only passport to success, and, having succeeded in that
instance, I had no dread of ill-luck on the present occasion.
The eventful morning arrived when, with the hundreds of
black porters and our baggage, we were packed into large
dhows (vessels used for carrying slaves and merchandise),
somewhat like herrings in a barrel, and so parted from the
scene of our first contact with Arabs and slavery.

British officers on the deck of H.M.S. London gave us a
polite salute, and a Jack Tar standing forward shouted, " So
long ! " The old and to me familiar send-off of that British
sailor was very cheering, and, as we sailed past the great ship,
we returned the salute almost under the shadow of the St.
George's ensign which floated proudly from her stern. One
of my comrades asked :

" What does ' so long ' mean ? "

I replied : It is used by sailors, and means, ' Until w^e
meet again.'"

" What a strange expression ! " he said. " It seems to
imply a certainty of meeting."

My mind was too full of the actual going to dwell on the
possibilities of coming back ; but the eyes of the questioner
were then gazing for the last time on the Naval Flag of
Britain. Even at that moment he was almost within sight of

30

PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY

the spot where years afterwards, when returning home and
ahnost out of Africa, he fell mortally wounded, shot by a
treacherous half-caste Arab. At the time of addressing the
question to me he was surrounded by comrades ; at his death
he was alone, and Africa never so much as provided him with
a grave.

" So long !

I hear that sailor''s voice even now ; it was almost like a
requiem over no less than three others of my comrades, who,
sitting by my side at that moment, had their faces towards
their last resting-place in Africa.

The old dhow took but a few hours to cross the 25-mile
strip of water which separates Zanzibar from the mainland,
and, running close into the shore, we dropped anchor.

" Rukeni ! Rukeni majina upesi ! ^' cried the Suahili cap-
tain. " Jump quickly into the water, all of you ! and if you
can picture two or three hundred schoolboys tumbling out
of a London barge into the Thames on a sunny day, you have
a fairly good idea of our porters landing for their 820-mile
tramp, knowing they had each to carry on their heads a load
weighing 60 lbs.

Yet every man of them was a slave, even the head-men
were slaves, and part of their three-months'* advanced wages
had already gone into the hands of their masters at Zanzibar.
They were just a merry, happy lot of laughter-loving grown-
up boys — no care, no thought of the morrow, no repining at
their lot !

" Come-a-day, go-a-day, God-send-Sunday," was their for-
mula and rule of life, and experience has revealed to me that
these words accurately describe the outstanding natural charac-
teristics of coloured races in Central Africa. These romping,
excitable men, gambolling in the sea around the old Arab
dhow, with no worldly possessions beyond a yard or two of
calico, had engaged to transport " white men " through a
country quite unknown to many of them, though they knew

31

PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY

from those who had previously travelled that there were many
real hardships and dangers to be encountered before reaching
Lake Tanganyika.

As I tried to realise what this meant, what a demonstration
it afforded of loyal service of black to white men, I could only
hope that no want of patience, knowledge, or tact on our part
might have the effect of jeopardising the realisation of what
at times appeared but a dream.

Dreams, however, had to give place to solid hard work in the
shape of tent-pitching, stacking of loads, preparing to pass the
first night in camp not far from the calm water of the Indian
Ocean, and what was still more necessary, providing and cooking
our own dinner. We Avere to shift for ourselves at last, with
state cabins, stewards, and general luxury a thing of the past —
" outward bound," as sailors call it — and if we were ever to see
the waters of distant Tanganyika one thing was essential, we
must not make martyrs of ourselves, not even for Africans. We
must take every reasonable precaution against malaria, and
above all attend most scrupulously to our diet, and not only live
on the best food to be procured in the country, but make
ample use of those proved digestible foods which science has
enabled us to bring in metal tins. I say without hesitation
that a missionary or traveller who fails to live as well as
possible whilst exposed to the tropical sun and malaria is
certain to become prematurely a most expensive, if not alto-
gether useless, servant to any government or philanthropical
society. And, even with every precaution, none wholly escape ;
whilst many fall victims to the deadly microbes now known to
be conveyed to the human blood by a species of mosquito.

We w^ere soon initiated into the art of making our tents
comfortable, and, as the sun disappeared behind some lofty
cocoa-nut palm trees, insect life swarmed out to enjoy the
cool air. Then commenced those choruses of sounds from
pool, bush, and tall rank grasses, which never cease to
serenade African travellers from sunset to sunrise.

32

PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY

Mosquitoes in great numbers were buzzing around our ears,
stinging the ankles (a favourite spot), neck, face, and hands.
At first we tried to pass the whole thing off as a joke, or
at most a temporary annoyance ; but first one, then another,
European had business in his tent, until all were found
safely in bed under their mosquito-curtains. At that time
it was generally thought the deadly malaria was more or
less contained in'stagnant pools underneath decaying vegetation,
or closely connected with tall rank grasses. The mosquito was
not suspected by us of being the direct channel through which
the poison entered our blood, hence our attention was directed
towards avoiding the supposed malarial deposits, and the
mosquito evaded simply because it was a persistent nuisance.
We have travelled far since then, with the assistance of
science, and know it is one of the species of mosquito
which injects the malaria-microbe into the blood as it
inserts its proboscis through the skin.

I lay awake that first night listening to the hoarse
croaking of the bull-frog, and to myriads of insects I had
never seen, which kept up a perpetual humming sound both
inside and outside my tent.

The Indian Ocean joined in the lullaby as its waves
broke on the sand, whilst I could hear in the distance the
never-ceasing hum of our porters"* voices which now and
then broke forth into rollicking choruses; but the refrain
was, of course, quite unintelligible to me at that time.
Later on, as I became acquainted with the language they
spoke, I realised that my ignorance at the coast had not
caused me to lose anything of an edifying nature.

My own private servants were sitting around an open
fire not far away from the tent, one playing a stringed
instrument; its soothing and seemingly pathetic appeals
were at intervals answered by the player's voice, and, in
perfect time and harmony, one after another of his companions
joined in the song, each taking a separate part. After a

33

PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY

slight pause the wailing string issued its final appeal, and
the whole of the singers mingled their voices in a chorus
which, if it was not of a classical nature, was delightfully
soothing to one who had just taken leave of the busy,
bustling, civilised world of humanity, and was being hushed
to sleep for the first time in the land where

" Man's inhumanity to man
Makes countless thousands mourn,"

34

CHAPTER II

Porters and their Loads — The Long March to Lake Tan-
ganyika COMMENCED An AmUSING INCIDENT ThE ChARM

of African Life — Insight into Native Character.

OL^R first morning in Africa was ushered in by a
pleasant bugle-call, and the camp at once presented
a busy scene. The morning mists still hung like
a soft mantle a few feet above the long low seashore, whilst
the high grasses provided a shower-bath of glistening dew-
drops for the early traveller who was compelled to tramp along
the narrow footpaths.

Black boys who had elected to serve as our personal
attendants brought water for the morning toilet, whilst the
porters stood ready for the word of command to seize each
his particular load.

It was a sight not easily to be forgotten.
Babel but faintly describes the howling of that half-
civilised crowd as, with strained countenances, they scanned
the pile of miscellaneous packages ; each man mentally
appropriating to himself the smallest, softest, and what he
judged the lightest load. The reader must bear in mind
that a mistake at this first selection of loads would certainly
mean a tremendous addition to the ordinary physical strain
of carrying such a burden for three months ; an awkward
load, or even one extra pound of weight, might not only
cause painful sores on either head or shoulders, but so handicap
the bearer as to make his pace the slowest in the caravan ; and
dragging wearily along, far in the rear of his more fortunate
companions, he would finally either throw away his load out

of sheer inability to carry it into camp, or be murdered for

35

PORTERS AND THEIR LOADS

the sake of its intrinsic value by those villains who, being
too idle to work, infest certain uninhabited portions of the
track, shooting down the lonely and tired porter.

These possible dangers were well known to all that crowd
of black humanity; hence, when their head-men could no
longer control them, they hurled themselves en masse on the
prepared burdens, and not a few unparliamentary disputes
followed over the possession of those little handy bales of
calico which fit so softly on the head, and are of course the
ideal load to carry.

However, beyond having to separate couples who were
evidently training themselves in the manly art of self-defence,
we were not seriously annoyed by this rather boisterous
"jump ofF'^ of our noisy crew. I would have given a great
deal at that time to have understood the sallies of repartee
which passed between the smiling possessor of a neat package
and the burly black who had for his daily companion a hard
box, which in his mind he was doubtless determining to
exchange, at the first opportunity, at the expense of a com-
panion. I could only stand amongst these half-wild children
of the sun and admire the pluck and strength which they
possessed, enabling them so merrily to commence a task which
no white man could possibly have undertaken in this tropical
division of the world.

It being barely 8 a.m., the sun was not yet high enough
to cause us inconvenience when we were ready to commence
our long journey. The black races are early risers; they
retire soon after the sun sets, sleep well, and get through a
great deal of work before it becomes unpleasantly hot. Being
bare-footed, they find marching during the middle portion
of the day extremely painful over the hot, sandy paths, the
heat of which causes deep cracks in the soles of their feet.
At times these ulcerate and completely incapacitate them
for travelling; therefore it is imperative to get away on a
journey as early as possible, for a lame porter means having

PORTERS AND THEIR LOADS

a load without any one to carry it, much delay, and at times
serious loss.

When the general scramble which I have described was
over, and each man's name and load entered on the lists, the
Europeans were allotted their several duties en route — e.g.
superintending the commissariat, tents, loads, hygiene, accounts,
&c. &c., and we decided to start on the following day.
During the afternoon we were visited by the head-man of
the town of Saadani and district. He w^as accompanied by
a number of white-robed followers, evidently arrayed so as to
make, according to Eastern custom, a respectable show of
authority.

• They were very polite, making numerous inquiries about
our outfit and intentions, as well as promising, not only to
assist us to the utmost of their power during our sojourn at
Saadani ; but to capture and return to us porters who might
desert on the road.

This promise was faithfully kept; and although the chief
was an old slave-trader, who knew full well that every European
then in his power had determined to ruin his trade, I always
found him ready to assist us in all matters in which he was
concerned. His son was not so friendly ; but little did my
young companion, Arthur Brooks, imagine that the hand of
yoti white-robed, smiling-faced boy would one day strike
him dead without a moment's warning, leaving his bones to
be picked clean by vultures and his skull to whiten in the
sun.

In the cool of the evening I strolled through the village ;
its main characteristics were untidiness and filth. The huts
were carelessly built, and no attempt to observe the most
rudimentary laws of sanitation appeared to be made by
either chief or people.

The more favoured women wore cheap, gaudy clothes,
thrown somewhat gracefully over their bodies; but their
features were made hideous by the insertion of circular

39 c

THE LONG MARCH COMMENCED

ornaments through the nose and ears. Between these belles
and the poorly clad worn-out old creatures who toiled from
morning to night there was a vast gulf, almost as great as
in our own country between rich and poor; yet all were
"domestic slaves,'' most of them quite happy and proud to
be able to claim allegiance to "Muinyi" or " Saidi," as the
case might be. If not actually born in slavery, they had
long since forgotten from whence they were stolen ; even if
they could have remembered the name of their village, few
had any idea where it was situated, and none would have
accepted their freedom if you had offered to redeem them,
knowing full well that it was an utter impossibility for them
ever to travel back to the old far-away home.

This was my first contact with real slaves, and it seemed to
me that they were not badly treated, and were for the most
part tolerably happy.

I had not long to wait before another aspect of this matter
was revealed to me in all its cruel nakedness, the sight of
which burned out of my mind for ever the last remnant of
toleration for domestic slavery Avhich I may have entertained,
and made me an avowed enemy of all who soiled their hands
with the accursed system.

It was soon apparent that the mixed population at the
coast gave little indication of what the tribes of the Interior
were like. There were no native industries to be seen any-
where. The ornaments and clothes they wore had their origin
in Manchester and India rather than in Africa; even when
dressed in the height of coast fashion they presented an
artificial appearance. One looked in vain for the lithe cat-
like forms to be found in vast stretches of the country ; but
these lazy, slave- depraved people were, I felt positive, many
degrees below the primitive, half-savage tribes of the Interior,
amongst whom we were about to live. Mohammedanism had
done little for them except to make them consider the Creator

their special Protector, and the vast multitudes of natives

40

THE LONG MARCH COMMENCED

their legitimate prey, ranking them about on an equality
with the animals in the forest.

I felt glad to turn away from the village to seek something
edible in the forest, so, shouldering a fowling-piece and calling
my boy, I went into the outskirts of the maize gardens, and
was not there long before up flew a fine flock of guinea-fowl,
and two plump birds graced next day's dining-table as the
result of our first hunt for game in Africa.

We were up and away from camp the next morning before
6 A.M. At the head of our long line of porters marched what
is known in Africa as a " kilangozi."" He is a man chosen
on account of his intimate knowledge of wliat we might call
" the rule of the road."

In addition to being physically strong, he must know
which paths to avoid, and this is by no means an easy task
where the vegetation is dense and no conspicuous landmarks
can be used as a guide to camp.

Amongst such a large number of men, many are sure to
be utterly unable to grasp the simplest geographical feature
of the country or to understand verbal directions.

Therefore the leader must never omit to close all paths
which he does not wish those who follow to take. This is
done by placing on the path either a few leaves or sticks,
or, if these are not procurable, he simply drav/s a line across
with his spear.

I have frequently lost porters who, after tramping for
hours, had walked on mechanically, never noticing these signs,
and were only brought to their senses by arriving at a strange
village many miles out of their way.

The sight of game made me forsake duty ; for, as we
opened out into a beautiful green valley, we saw a fine harte-
beeste quietly grazing. It was the work of a moment to
decide that sport was not to be despised, to say nothing
of the mass of venison which would make glad the hearts
of both master and men. Calling my boy, I slipped into

THE LONG MARCH COMMENCED

cover ; alas ! I had reckoned without my host. Thorns of
every imaginable size caused me to halt. It was the first taste
of bush-work, and how much I regretted leaving behind those
gaiters which the transport agent hoped I should never need !
I now understood his meaning !

Too much attention to the thorns made me forget the
more important matter of stalking the animal, and, on
emerging from the bush, I was mortified by seeing the
hartebeeste about to disappear into the forest on the
opposite side. I might possibly have wounded him, but a
certain kill was out of the question.

" Pepo, bwana " (wind, master), was the only word uttered
by my companion.

" Yes, boy,'' I replied. " He got our wind."

I had omitted to remember that animals must be approached
from the lee side, and an African lad had given me a lesson
in big-game hunting. We circled round for some distance,
and, failing to get another sight of game, made for a village
for water. It was soon apparent that a white man was, to say
the least, a novelty to the inhabitants, probably on account of
their being off the main caravan road, as well as from the
fact that but few Europeans had passed through this district.

My boy soon put them at their ease, but what yarn he
told them I did not know; his instructions were to ask for
water, and to say we were hunting. Water was brought,
and, being tired, we rested. The natives soon collected
around, and became quite talkative with the boy. At last,
seeing they were curiously interested in my boots, I asked
the boy what they were saying.

" That you have hoofs like the zebra," replied he.

It struck me as a novel idea, and, entering into the fun
of the thing, I replied :

" Tell them they are wrong ; I have feet like their own."

At the reception of this news they shook their heads,
saying to my boy :

42

AN AMUSING INCIDENT

" If he speaks the truth, tell him to show us ! "

Ah ! How many times in after years have I realised that
to impress anything on an African's mind, to win his confidence,
you must demonstrate the truth of what you say.

"Deeds, not words," is inscribed on the minds of the
whole of the coloured races.

A few seconds sufficed to remove the boots. I shall never
forget the outburst of laughter which ensued. Being totally
ignorant of what they were gone mad about, I said to my
boy : " What in the world are they amused at ? I have
shown them I have not hoofs, are they not satisfied ? "

" Yes, master ! But — now they declare you have no toes ! "

"Oh, do they? Well, you just tell them I have ten
toes,*" and holding up both hands, I proceeded to count them,
at the same time joining heartily in their laughter.

" Show us ! Show us ! " came back their reply.

And show them I did. The simple act of pulling off
a sock must have almost prepared them to see the foot itself
drop off, for I could see the younger ones were quite ready
to scamper away at any unexpected developments.

Wondering what they would have to say, I gave a final
pull, and with one voice they yelled :

" He''s white all over ! "

" Yes, I am," I cried ; " and you must take it on trust,
for no more clothes will be removed for your pleasure."

Whatever Tom told them must remain a mystery ; all I
knew was that they suddenly became quiet.

Having rested, I thought it time to make them pay for
their entertainment, so, filling my pipe, I lighted a match
and, as I half expected, my audience cleared in all directions.

A few of the most daring stopped, and pointing to me
exclaimed (so Tom said) :

" Now we know you are a spirit, for you can carry fire
in your clothes without being burned."

Leaving the box of matches on the ground, and Tom

43

AN AMUSING INCIDENT

to show them "how it was done," I moved away, glad to
have witnessed an exhibition of friendly, innocent fun amongst
Nature's children of the forest, and delighted to have had
an early opportunity of demonstrating to Africans that a
white man's word is his bond.

The next business was to pick up the path and camp, for,
beyond a general idea as to the direction, I was somewhat
at sea. Tom, however, displayed no hesitation, but entered
the forest, saying:

" Master ! we must walk quickly, or it will be dark before
you reach camp."

I was struck by the perfect confidence he had in his ability
to find the path, and all doubt was quickly dispelled as, after
crossing a few miles of forest, he struck a pathway, scrutinised
it for a second, and exclaimed :

" It''s all right. Our people have passed."

A few miles ahead, the camp was reached in good time for
dinner, and over the evening pipe we laughed and joked about
the day's experiences, my companions declaring that, had I
exhibited a little more common sense when stalking that
hartebeeste, the whole of the party would at that moment
have been discussing the flavour of our first African venison,
instead of having to be satisfied with tinned meats.

The rains were now over, but as yet the grass (standing
about six feet high) was not burned up by those devastating
fires which annually sweep over nearly all tropical Africa,
destroying or stunting most of the young trees.

It is this repeated scorching which partly accounts for the
wretched specimens of trees growing in most districts of East
Africa, and, when the country is little short of a vast charcoal
desert, travelling becomes unpleasant. On the other hand, the
rains and dense vegetation make it almost impossible to enjoy
camp earlier in the year. Nevertheless, there is something
very fascinating in African life and travel.

Few men can satisfactorily explain to others wherein lies

44

THE CHARM OF AFRICAN LIFE

the charm, and one often hears from friends, who have never
been there, expressions of surprise that any one can really
enjoy the nomadic and isolated life. They too often forget
that those who go there have some strong motive, some goal
to reach which nothing but failure of health can make them
relinquish. It is in the intense pursuit of these aims that
mosquitoes, privation, and danger are forgotten. There is also
the total absence of conventionality. The silence of the forest
is a welcome change from the noisy city, and one's manhood
seems to assert itself much more when entirely cut off from
European associations.

Perhaps the sense of individuality is the main attraction.
In the constant whirl of civilisation the personal element is
somewhat lost in the mass. Out in the forests of Africa you
are the man amongst your surroundings. It may not be very
much in reality, but at all events it is enough to make you
enjoy your environment ; and the coloured people unconsciously
weave themselves into your life as you study their lives and
their language, and realise that in most instances you are each
others' protectors, and, for the time at least, friends. This
fascination was beginning to cast its spell over me, and for
twenty-six years it never ceased to chain me to the Dark
Continent.

Our westward journey to the first sectional halting-place
continued without any remarkable occurrence; but, as we
neared Mamboia (136 miles from the coast), fever bowled me
over and well-nigh ended my career. Owing, however, to the
skilful attention of Mr. and Mrs. Last, I recovered and, leaving
the remainder of our party to march on to M'pwapwa and
await us. Captain Hore and myself returned to the coast for
our boat, reaching Zanzibar in eight days. We soon had the
carts ready and again started up-country. It is all very well
marching along a narrow path, but to draw wheeled vehicles
is another matter. Every rock and tree-stump was a vexatious
hindrance, and it required a coLipany of axe-men to clear away

45

INSIGHT INTO NATIVE CHARACTER

obstacles. The men pulled, perspired, and " said things."
A broken trace, a capsize, up to the axle in mud, wheel
off. Sec. &;c., would be a fair summary of the daily life and the
pin-pricks one had to endure for three months. But those
black fellows never gave up ! Had they known what was
before them, it is certain none would have chosen to be yoked
as "donkeys" to those boat-sections. In order that the
reader may quite understand what these men had to do, I
may here explain that two boat-sections weighed 300 lbs.
each, and four others 230 lbs. each, besides the carts on which
they were lashed. The pathway seldom exceeded two feet
in width, with trees and tall grasses growing close up to its
edges. If you picture these men dragging such burdens under
a broiling sun, along that path for 825 miles (it took three
months), you will probably join with me in calling them a
brave set of black men.

In order to avoid the mountains, I was ordered to take
these carts through the Mukondokwa valley (Captain Hore
travelling by another road to escort his wife and son, who
unfortunately had to return to England, but who later on
went to Lake Tanganyika). The valley was very lovely, and,
but for the dense vegetation, would have been most enjoyable
to travel through.

Whilst alone with this division of our party in the valley,
I had an amusing insight into native character. The high
grass was nearly dry, and one evening, shortly after dinner,
I heard the ominous crackling of a grass fire quite close to
the tent and my men making a fearful noise. Calling
Tom, I asked for explanation. " Moto, bwana, moto " (fire !
master, fire !) exclaimed he. Sure enough, the grass was
on fire. I saw ruin staring us in the face as I pictured the
boat, tent, calico (money), rifles, ammunition, and outfit
adding to the general conflagration. In the space of a few
seconds the tent was tiown and everything removed to a safe
place.

46

INSIGHT INTO NATIVE CHARACTER

None too soon, as directly afterwards the fire passed over
the very spot. I rewarded the men who were most energetic
in subduing the flames. I had not long retired to rest before
a second alarm was raised, and again the same process was re-
peated and small presents distributed. But by this time I
had become suspicious of trickery, so, pitching the tent on a
burned patch of ground, I awaited events.

As I expected, the grass was fired in another direction, and
on being called, I replied, Let it burn ! I knew it was
only a plot to extort presents. They had purposely set it
alight ; but, as I was alone, I deemed it prudent to wait for
daylight. Tom next morning confirmed my suspicions, saying
in an undertone in broken English : " Master no yet speak
our language — not know black men. Porters not much bad
and not very good. They play with you as you are new to
country. Master, never put tent up in grass; plenty fire."
" All right, Tom ! " I replied. " Master plenty wake up
after breakfast."

It is needless to assure the reader master never again slept
in the grass during his African life. One lesson was enough !
Without entering into details, I may say that " after hxak-
fasf'' the head-man of our party was publicly reminded that
a white man takes a serious objection to unnecessary excite-
ment in camp after the labours of the day are supposed to be
over ; and I doubt if he will ever forget the lesson learned in
company with his young master in the Mukondokwa valley.

47

CHAPTER III

Cruelties of the Slave-Trade — Major Von Wissmann — Diffi-
culties OF the Road — " Pay or Fight " — Loyal Service — A
Narrow Escape — The Mighty Mirambo — Native and Lion.

ON the 29th of November we arrived at M'pwapwa, where
the main portion of the party had encamped. They
were thoroughly tired of waiting in that uninteresting
district. Although about 200 miles from the coast, the natives
bore most of the objectionable characteristics of a slave-
depraved race. Situated on the outskirts of the Ugogo plains
and forests, the neighbourhood had become a convenient
halting place for all the slave caravans en route to the
coast.

Here we met the notorious Tip-pu-Tib's annual caravan,
which ha^ been resting after the long march through Ugogo
and the hot passes of Chunyo. 'As they filed past we noticed
many chained together by the neck. Others had their necks
fastened into the forks of poles about 6 feet long, the ends of
which were supported by the men who preceded them. The
women, who were as numerous as the men, carried babies on
their backs in addition to a tusk of ivory or other burden
on their heads; They looked at us with suspicion and fear,
having been told, as we subsequently ascertained, that white
men always desired to release slaves in order to eat their flesh,
like the Upper Congo cannibals.

It is difficult adequately to describe the filthy state of their
bodies; in many instances, not only scarred by the cut of a
" chikote " (a piece of hide used to enforce obedience), but feet
and shoulders were a mass of open sores, made more painful by
the swarms of flies which followed the march and lived on the

48

CRUELTIES OF THE SLAVE TRADE

flowing blood. They presented a moving picture of utter
misery, and one could not help wondering how any of them
had survived the long tramp from the Upper Congo, at least
1000 miles distant. Our own inconveniences sank into in-
significance compared with the suffering of this crowd of half-
starved, ill-treated creatures who, weary and friendless, must
have longed for death.

The head-men in charge were most polite to us as they
passed our camp. Each was armed with a rifle, knife, and
spear, and although decently clothed in clean cotton garments,
they presented a thoroughly villainous appearance.

Addressing one, I pointed out that many of the slaves were
unfit to carry loads. To this he smilingly replied :

" They have no choice ! They must go, or die !

Then ensued the following conversation : —

" Are all these slaves destined for Zanzibar ?

" Most of them, the remainder will stay at the coast."

" Have you lost many on the road ? "

" Yes ! numbers have died of hunger !

" Any run away ? " ^

" No, they are too well guarded. Only those who^ become
possessed with the devil try to escape; there is nowhere
they could run to if they should go.''

" What do you do when they become too ill to travel ? "

" Spear them at once ! was the fiendish reply. " For,
if we did not, others would pretend they were ill in order
to avoid carrying their loads. No ! we never leave them
alive on the road ; they all know our custom.""

" I see women carrying not only a child on their backs,
but, in addition, a tusk of ivory or other burden on their
heads. What do you do in their case when they become too
weak to carry both child and ivory ? Who carries the ivory ? "

" She does ! We cannot leave valuable ivory on the
road. We spear the child and make her burden lighter. Ivory
first, child afterwards ! "

49

CRUELTIES OF THE SLAVE-TRADE

I could have struck the demon dead at my feet.

For downright savagery this beat anything I had met
with. " Ivory first, child afterwards ! " I repeated over and
over again. Alas ! I was destined many times to witness
the truth of that cruel statement.

Thus early in my life I understood what Livingstone
meant and felt when, in 1886, he wrote the following:
" Besides those actually captured, thousands are killed,
or die of their wounds and famine, driven from their homes
by the slave-raider. Thousands perish in internecine wars,
waged for slaves with their own clansmen or neighbours ;
slain by the lust for gain which is stimulated by the slave-
purchasers. The many skeletons we have seen amongst
the rocks and woods, by the pools, and along the paths
of the wilderness, all testify to the awful sacrifice of
human life which must be attributed directly or indirectly
to this trade of hell.**'' Strong words, but not a whit too
strong !

As the last poor creature in that living chain of wretched-
ness passed me, every humane feeling within me rose up in
rebellion as I realised for the first time that, though a member
of a philanthropical society, I was unable to respond to the
natural impulse of an Englishman and set the whole company
free. Nevertheless, our indignant protest was despatched both
to Zanzibar and England, and I am glad to say we were then
looking at the last slave-caravan ever permitted to leave the
mainland. The reader, however, should bear in mind that
although those Eastern slave-routes are now closed, there is
yet at the present day a considerable area in Africa still re-
maining wherein are practised similar cruelties which call
for speedy suppression by those European Powers who have
acquired the regions as a sphere of influence.

It was a pleasant relief next day to meet the genial German
explorer, Major von Wissmann, who had crossed the Continent
from west to east. With eyes sparkling and full of laughter

50

A Dug-out Canoe

This is used for fishing. The land on the opposite- side of the lake is not visible. The men have
scientifically distributed their weight to preserve a proper balance.

A Method of Securing Slaves

When travelling a shorter pole is used, one end bain? held up by the preceding person. The
neck is often l)roken if the slave falls when walking. Lunatics are also imprisoned in this way to
prevent their running into the forest. It is also used to torture enemies, who are fixed in this
manner over the nests of ferocious ants.

MAJOR VON WISSMANN

he apologised for his attire ; explaining that, to replace his hat
he had bought a cap at Ujiji ; having worn out his foot-gear,
he had purchased some weird -looking boots at Urambo ; and,
wanting the necessary materials for washing linen, he had made
himself a vest of unbleached calico. It was my privilege to
meet him again both at Tanganyika and in Nyasaland, where
his ability, tact, and cheerful optimism won him the admiration
of all pioneers. Germany has given many brilliant sons to
Africa ; but I doubt if any name deserves, or will receive, more
lasting honour at her hands than Von Wissmann, subsequently
Governor of her Eastern Colony.

Leaving camp on December 2, we made for Mkambi,
beyond the hot pass of Chunyo. The country was very rugged,
necessitating the cutting of new paths in many places through
the dense scrub. About thirty miles ahead we entered the
plains of Ugogo, and travelling became easier ; but the second
day^s march will not soon be forgotten, for every yard of road
was disputed by thorny bushes, which, meeting overhead, made
walking upright out of the question. The men found it diffi-
cult to push forward with their loads, whilst to drag our carts
through appeared almost hopeless.

At sunrise our vanguard attacked with axes the tangled
vegetation, and succeeded in enlarging the tunnel so that the
carts could pass. But it was heart-breaking work. At noon
we had covered but a few miles, whilst most of the men who
carried loads were tired out by constantly stooping under the
creepers. To make matters worse, rain fell heavily about 4 p.m.
The road at once became sodden, and, with wheels sinking up
to the axles in mud, it is no wonder our men became exhausted
after ten hours of such toil without food. Unfortunately for
me, it had been my turn that day to superintend the transport,
so the night was extremely welcome ; for, being dressed in a
canvas suit which was soaked with rain and covered with mud,
I was fairly miserable.

Turning to a head-man I asked if it was far to camp.

53

DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROAD

I (ioirt know, master,"" replied he ; " but we cannot reach
there to-night with these carts.""

This was not cheering, for it was raining and dark. All
were hungry, tired out, and cold. The ground was covered with
water, and to spend a night in dense bush under such conditions
was to court fever or death. At that moment we were cheered
by the sight of a lantern approaching, which proved to be
carried by a messenger from Hore, who delivered to me a slip
of paper containing instructions to leave the carts and make
for camp.

" Come along, boys ! "" I shouted, and with thoughts of
dry clothes, a bath, hot coffee, fire, and sleep, we quickly
shuffled through the slush. A mile or two on we espied the
gleaming camp-fires, to which master and men hastened for
warmth. How grateful it was, this rough wood fire under
the open sky. Certainly the figures crouching around it
thanked Allah for the precious gift.

The rain ceased, having done its worst, and 1 felt sure
my personal servant had long since made my tent cosy,
prepared supper and warm clothes, and filled the pipe. With
these too hastily formed conclusions, I was groping around
in the endeavour to find my tent, when I heard Hore"'s voice
saying:

" What are you hunting for, Swann ? "'"'

" My tent,"*"* I replied. " I am done up and cold, and
this canvas suit would stand up by itself, it is so stiff with
the rain."'"'

His reply was crushing.

"You will get no tent to-night, or bed either, for our
companions have gone on and taken the tents with them. But,
never mind, the men who carried the food collapsed near
here ; so we have the dinner, they the beds."

" How nice ! " I replied.

Hore was, like the rest of us, soaking wet; but, with a

smile, he said: "Let's make the best of a bad job. You

54

DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROAD

make coffee, whilst I'll fry pancakes. Afterwards we will
give the fellows hot porridge and coffee, or some will collapse
during the night.""

It was both an amusing and uncomfortable occupation
to carry out the programme, but it was done. Boxes were
arranged around the fire, upon which we lay, drying first
one side and then the other ; and we indulged in many a
hearty laugh though our teeth were chattering with cold.

Whilst I was lying thus, gazing up at the stars, the whole
thing struck me as very comical, especially when I saw my
companion endeavouring to prevent himself from rolling off
into the fire when asleep, and I ventured the following remark :

" I suppose this is what we sailors call ' sleeping on
a clothes-line to dry ? ' "

" Yes," he answered. " Did you not see me trying to peg
myself on ? "

At that instant a hyena make the camp echo with its dismal
howl, but how often it was repeated we did not know, for deep
sleep came to our relief. We awoke in broad daylight, little
refreshed and both feverish.

This part was inhabited by the most inquisitive and insolent
natives I ever met. They lived where water was scarce during
the dry season, demanding heavy payment for the use of wells.
If this had been k^pt within reasonable bounds no one would
have grumbled, but it was extortionate and demanded in
a most objectionable manner. The men carried heavy broad-
bladed spears ; their faces were made hideous by markings of
red and white pigment. They crowded around our tents, and
altogether behaved in an offensive manner. It was perhaps
fortunate we did not understand their language, or trouble
might easily have arisen. Their villages were built in a square,
the outsides being protected by a loop-holed wall of dry mud.
In this enclosure they lived along the corridors, whilst the
central space was reserved for the cattle, the whole place being
disgustingly dirty. The settling of our tribute was a most

55

"PAY OR FIGHT

exasperating business. First, they must have calico " to make
the chiefs heart good ; " next, they must have more to appease
some other member of the aristocracy ; finally, some more " to
oil the spears of the head-men." When that was done, they
wanted the remainder in guns, then slaves, then ivory, calico,
brass, wire, salt ; in short, every imaginable article known to
the most greedy amongst them.

Each request was accompanied by an ultimatum, " pay
or fight ! " no pay, no water,"' and so on. In fact they
demonstrated to perfection how unjust the coloured man can
be when he is paramount. It is a satisfaction to know that the
Germans put an end to all this nonsense directly after occupy-
ing the country. These Wagogo were so powerful that both
Stanley and Tip-pu-Tib, who travelled with well-armed
escorts, were compelled to pay tribute, so we could not hope to
escape.

The only redeeming feature of the country was its smooth
surface, over which our men galloped with the carts, often
arriving in camp hours before the rear-guard. Such an easy
day pleased them ; for, like children, they are as quickly elated
as depressed. It was common to hear them, about this time,
speculating as to the number of days which would elapse before
they saw the mighty Tanganyika.

Leaving the plain we suddenly ascended about 800 feet
to a plateau, and entered the much dreaded Mgunda-Mkali
wilderness. The climb was difficult, the heavy carts requiring
all our spare men ; whilst the absence of water on the hillside
was keenly felt during the heat of day. Severe as this work was,
it was eclipsed by that done through the forest at the summit,
where our marches frequently exceeded twenty-five miles a day
without water. It is difficult to understand how any man can
endure such a strain with 60-lbs. weight on his head.

In this forest I witnessed a remarkable instance of the
endurance and loyalty of a black man. Once, after several
days of severe marching, our men failed to reach camp.

56

LOYAL SERVICE

I returned to them with water and assistance, finding the carts
with only half their crew, the remainder having gone off to
camp. I asked where the heavy load was, and they replied,
" Miles behind;'

Fearing the men would be starved, we pressed on towards
them, and finally discovered the load drawn up under a bush.
Searching around for traces of the crew, I heard a voice faintly
call out :

" I am alive, but give me water ! "

On looking into the bush we discovered the leader,
sheltered from the sun, and after giving him water, I
asked :

" Where are the others ? "

" Gone on to camp/"* he replied, " for food and water."
" Why did you not go ? "

" No, master, I could not leave the boat-section. My
name is Mahububu. I was one of Livingstone's boys. I should
have died by the load. I cut off the hide lashings and ate
them, and the roots I dug up and sucked for moisture."
Let no man question the ability of black men to perform
loyal service after evidence of such heroic conduct.

Near where we stood we discovered the skeletons of our
four mail-men, who had been murdered by robbers. Frag-
ments of our letters lay about in all directions ; but as
we counted seven skulls, it proved that our men had not
died without a brave struggle, taking with them no less
than three of their assailants. I cannot do better than sum
up our journey to this point in Captain Hore's own
words : —

" On went this novel train through weary miles of
forest, across the scorched plain, rattling over the hard-baked
footprints of elephant and rhinoceros. On through grassy
glades where the antelope bounded away, scared out of our
path, and the zebra and giraffe were startled by the rattle
of these strange disturbers of their solitude. On through

57 D

LOYAL SERVICE

miles of swamps with their croaking legions, or past the
dreary wayside relics of travellers way-laid and exhausted.
On till the pace grows slow and the heart sick with weariness
and thirst, and revives again as the welcome messenger
appears in sight with water, or the camp-fires tell of food
and rest."

Once clear of this, we were refreshed by the abmidance
of food found everywhere in Unyamwezi. The robust subjects
of the great Mirambo, into whose territory we had entered,
made us realise we were amongst men who felt they belonged
to a great kingdom. Whilst they cheerfully rendered respect
to white men, they demanded from strangers rigid obedience
to the social laws of their tribe. These Wanyamwezi may
be called the professional transport-agents of the East Coast.
Not one of them was allowed to marry before he had carried
a load of ivory to the coast, and brought back one of calico
or brass-wire. It was the tribal stamp of true manhood,
at once making him a citizen and warrior.

During the march it had always been my ambition to
bag a bull buffalo, and although aware of the dangerous
nature of these brutes when wounded, I was stupid enough
to hunt one armed onlv with a small Martini-Henry cavalry
carbine. On the margin of a broad swamp, in which were
growing bango reeds about twelve feet high, we noticed some
fresh buffalo spoor leading into the thick bush surrounding
the marsh. The natives, who have a wholesome respect for
the animal, warned me of its fierce character, and Tom not
only suggested great caution, but went so far as to say he
thought it was not " the kind of game master generally
shoots." He was right, and I almost paid dearly for not
listening to prudent counsel. But thinking they were drawing
the long-bow, I paid no heed. Striking oil* on the spoor I
at once began creeping through the dense foliage, making
enough noise to scare any game long before reaching it.
After about a mile of this sort of travel it became evident

58

A NARROW ESCAPE

we were overtaking 'our quarry, as the spoor became fresher
and the broken twigs showed the herd had passed quite
recently.

From the general nature of the country it appeared an
ideal home for buffalo, the surrounding bush having been
trampled into a grey mire, and the huge trees bashed down
by elephants. A tangled mass of vegetation was the result,
amongst which all big game love to shelter. An uncanny
feeling always crept over me when in such dense country. It
may have been caused by my intense horror of snakes, but
also I wanted elbow-room for any sudden tussle with wild
game, as it is an unequal contest when there are obstacles
which obstruct the vision, especially as both elephants and
buffaloes are known to stand quite still in the heat of the day,
permitting you, if they have not caught your wind, to pass
within charging distance; and although they seldom charge
without provocation, still, the knowledge of this possible
danger makes you long for a few yards of clear space.

To counteract this quite natural dislike of an unseen foe
one has the intense excitement, tempered, of course, with calm
reason. It is so different to the chase in England after hare
or fox, where the hunter rushes though open country and the
game cannot fight for its life. In the bush one knows it is
about an even chance, and so far as this particular hunt was
concerned, the chances, owing to my ignorance and improper
rifle, were against me.

Emerging into a small valley, we suddenly came upon
seven buffaloes quietly grazing, surrounded by several reed-
buck, water-buck, and zebra. It was a pretty and yet
grand spectacle. To throw ourselves flat on the ground
was the first precaution ; this done, I crawled along the edge
of the forest until within about one hundred and fifty yards
of the nearest animal. A large bull buffalo stood exposing
his broadside to me, and, intending to shoot at him from
a slight rising ground in front of me, I was proceeding to

59

A NARROW ESCAPE

crawl into position, when a water-buck galloped past, dis-
appearing into the opposite bush. This, of , course, disturbed
the others. The zebra threw up their graceful heads and
indulged in a trotting match. The buffaloes were very uneasy
and began prancing about, at the same time whirling their
tails around in a vicious manner, evidently on the point
of moving away when once they detected the position of the
threatened danger.

I saw there was no time to be lost, so, resting the carbine
against a tree, I fired at the bull, aiming at his left shoulder.
He fell to the shot, rolling on to his side and knees, making
a deep grunting noise, whilst his companions made off en masse,
disappearing in a cloud of dust. The bull rapidly recovered
his feet, and looked around for his assailant. It took but
a moment to discover me, as I had foolishly exposed myself,
thinking he was mortally wounded.

The instant he saw me I realised my mistake, for, with
another grunt, he came at fall gallop straight for me. With
his head held high, nostrils distended, and sending clouds
of earth flying from his hoofs, he covered the distance which
separated us in a few seconds. Having reloaded immediately
after firing, I was ready ; but a charging, wounded buffalo
is not easily stopped. Dropping on one knee and aiming
for his chest, I pulled the trigger, praying the bullet would
strike the heart. Whether it did or not, made not the
slightest difference to his terrific speed.

Down went his head for the charge. There was only one
thing to do to escape certain death, and so, waiting until he
was quite close, I flung my sun-helmet in his face and threw
myself sideways into the bush simultaneously. The infuriated
beast thundered over the spot I had knelt on, missing me by
inches as I lay flat on the ground, and only his great impetus
prevented him from swerving quickly enough to catch me with
his horns. He crashed into some young trees and stood still,
whilst blood flowed from his nostrils, chest, and shoulder;

60

A NARROW ESCAPE

truly the beast looked terrible in his rage. I gave him no
time to recover, and another bullet through the shoulder
finished the battle, the mighty beast rolling over dead. It
was a narrow escape. The breast shot had pierced the heart,
and doubtless it was this that caused him to miss his aim in
the last few mad strides ; otherwise the encounter might have
ended in a different manner. In the light of after-experience,
I know the folly of attacking a buffalo with nothing but a
carbine. The meat was a welcome addition to our cuisine, and
also made glad the hearts of numerous strangers who were
encamped within a few miles of our sleeping-place.

On arrival at Urambo, the capital of Unyamwezi, we were
visited by the powerful chief, Mirambo. He was tall, stately,
and looked every inch a chief. He carefully scrutinised our
carts, and on being told the boat-sections were to be put
together on Tanganyika, he remarked : " It is good work.
The lake is large. I shall call it my boat, and you can ferry
my men across with my ivory as they come from the Congo ;
and in exchange I give you my country to hunt in, or to live
in, and I will always be your friend."

This was the mighty Mirambo, dreaded by most tribes
in these parts, and spoken unfavourably of by Europeans,
who imagined him to be a cruel chief, delighting in war and
plunder. We found him upright, manly, great, and years of
close contact with him proved him to be loyal to all who
merited his friendship. During the great trek of the Zulus
from the south, a small number reached as far north as
Urambo, and remained there when the tribe retreated south-
wards. We found a small community still living near
Urambo ; they are called Angoni, using the same hide-shields
and assegais as are used by the Zulus of Natal. Mirambo
hired these warlike people for purposes of war, as they were
much feared by the neighbouring people. The great Mirambo,
since dead, left a deep impression on my mind. He stood out
as one of the most progressive chiefs of his day, and the

61

THE MIGHTY MIRAMBO

complete obedience of his robust subjects testified to the fact
that they could understand and respect justice and power
as embodied in their great chief.

On January 16 we pitched our tents close to the capital,
having completed a march of 600 miles from the coast, and
200 more would bring us to Tanganyika.

We had now arrived near to the first slave-depot of Un-
yanyembe. Arabs, financed by wealthy merchants in Zanzibar,
ruled the district and kept up communication with the other
depots at Ujiji, the Victoria Nyanza, and Upper Congo, for-
warding large quantities of ivory, and annual consignments of
slaves, to the coast.

It was against this organised slave-raiding system that the
chief, Mirambo, with whom we were staying, was frequently at
war. He told us he would not tolerate their rule in any form,
because of the usual methods they employed — first, to under-
mine the chief's authority ; and finally, to capture the villages
one by one by creating jealousies, inciting the people to
quarrel, and crushing in detail the whole tribe. At the time
we arrived it appeared as if many long years would elapse
before this powerful Arab organisation could be abolished.
The sources from which slaves were taken must be occupied,
raided tribes lived amongst, and seeds of freedom sown in their
midst. In fact, these people must be taught that it is not
simply a misfortune to become a slave but a real disgj^ace, and
Europe must be compelled to come to their rescue.

The Arab system extended to great distances, and, octopus-
like, grasped every small unprotected village community,
making the whole country a vast battlefield wherein no one
was safe outside the stockades. That I should live to see this
inhuman svstem utterly abolished never entered my imagina-
tion. Yet our very presence sealed its fate.

On resuming the journey westward we passed numerous
villages, out of which groups of young people ran to witness
what to them was an event of importance. We had come

62

African Mimicry

A native having seen a Hussar's busby, tries to go one better by
making a much lighter one out of leaves and adding another plume.

In the Wake of the Slave Raiders

A village raided by slave hunters, who have partially destroyed the huts and pitched away the
cooking-pots. A solitary individual has crept back from his hiding-place to find his home desolate
and all his relatives gone into slavery. Suicide is often the sequel.

NATIVE AND LION

from the salt sea, of which every one had heard from the
men who had been there and had thus qualified themselves
for citizenship. Food was easily purchased, and all seemed
very happy. None of the villages were stockaded, which
showed general security throughout the country. They
were too strong to be successfully attacked. The lesson had
been learned that to ensure peace you must be prepared for
a war of defence.

As we travelled away from the capital, and the villages
became more exposed to attack near the frontier, every
town was surrounded by a stockade consisting of poles about
ten feet ihigh, closely bound together, and inserted into the
earth; along the top of them thorns are often added.
Where lions infest the neighbourhood this plan is always
adopted, although they have been known to leap over and
tear off the grass of huts at night, killing the occupants.
Game was abundant everywhere, but the numerous pits dug
for the capture of wild animals made it risky to hunt,
except with great care.

It has frequently been stated that the lion, if he springs
at and misses his prey, will retire disgusted. We had a
good opportunity of proving this whilst encamped in a
rocky defile. About four inl the afternoon a porter rushed
into camp excitedly shouting, " Lions, master, lions ! " Of
course every one was instantly on the alert and rifles seized,
as, from the manner of the man, we took it the lions were
visible. On his calming down we extracted from him the
following story : —

" I was cutting firewood in the forest near here, when,
on looking up, I saw a lion creeping towards a small ant-
heap. He stopped directly I ceased chopping the wood,
and I saw him turn up his upper lip like our village dog
does when going to bite. I had no companions, and only
this little axe. If there had been trees I could easily have
climbed up out of danger, but there were thorn bushes and

65

NATIVE AND LION

rocks everywhere, except in the clear space where I was.
I knew it was no use to run, as the lion always catches
you. Allah Akbar ! ^ Before I had time to do anything
the lion crept up on to the ant-heap, and, growling all the
time, sprang right towards me. I was too far away, so,
lifting up my axe as if to strike him, I stood but did not
move. The lion then went away into the bush, and, as soon
as he was hidden from sight, I ran here."

*' MVongo, bwana ! " (liar, master !) exclaimed our
head-man.

" Lions are not such fools," added a chorus of voices.

The man, however, was certainly scared, and implored
us to go and see. We four Europeans went, taking the
fellow with us. Remarkable as it may appear, we verified
the statement he had made about the lion's spring. We
traced the lion's spoor up to a small ant-heap, on the top of
which the earth was torn up by the force of his paws when
springing at the man. From there to where he alighted was
exactly twenty feet, the height of the ant-heap being five
feet. He failed to reach the man by only five yards, as the
chopped wood indicated where he had been standing. From
there the spoor led into the thorn bushes at right angles;
and I think there can be no doubt the lion actually left the
man, either through disgust at missing him, or, what is
perhaps more likely, because the man stood still and challenged
combat. The lion naturally takes his prey at a disadvantage
— gets in " the first blow," as we term it. It is well established
by all hunters that lions, unless wounded, never deliberately
give open battle, as, for instance, will the rhinoceros. We
beat around for some time but failed to dislodge his majesty,
who was probably living between the large rocks. Had the
man run away, he would certainly have been caught in the
second or third leap of the lion which would have followed.

1 " Allah Akbar ! " This exclamation is always used by Mohammedans
■when some Europeans would probably exclaim, " God !"

66

NATIVE AND LION

Tom, who was always ready with solutions to every
problem, and who never missed a chance of excitement,
turned to one of the onlookers, saying : " Shetani hataki
dawa/' (The devil does not like medicine.)

"Dawa mkali sana, nitamomba mara moja.''' (Medicine
is very fierce. I shall beg the man to sell me some of his
at once.)

This was a typical instance of the Africans' belief in
charms, and that evil reigns, but can be propitiated. It
never enters their heads to imagine that an omnipotent
Creator would permit an opponent. No ! To them this life
is a fight between nearly equal forces, both liable to defeat.
They believe in the discomfiture of evil spirits by the inter-
vention of their ancestors, whose assistance may be obtained
mostly by some sacrifice. To them the Creator is beyond,
above, out of reach, supreme in His universal Kingdom,
knowing no equals. It was to the lion-medicine that Tom
was attracted. He wanted to have it around his neck.
Poor little chap ! A time was soon to come when, through
this child-like faith in charms, he was to throw away his
happy young life.

67

CHAPTER IV

A Greedy Ferryman — Fetish — Ujiji and Lake Tanganyika —
Livingstone and Stanley — A Whited Sepulchre — Ivory and
Slaves — Launching a Canoe — The People of the Plain.

A few days' travel brought us to the Malagarasi River, which
flows into Lake Tanganyika south of Ujiji. Its current
runs in the rainy season about five miles an hour, and,
being very deep, it is never fordable. Fish are plentiful, whilst
crocodiles in considerable numbers infest every stretch of back-
water, making it out of the question to cross by swimming. We
had expected this difficulty, and the problem of how to get our
heavy boat-sections across caused some anxiety. The ferry was
in the hands of a petty chief of the Wavinza, who, living on the
opposite side, owed no allegiance to our friend Mirambo, but on
the contrary sought to annoy his frontier subjects whenever
opportunity presented itself. The greedy old warrior, wearing
a skin cap, was superintendent of the canoes, which were almost
as difficult to manage as a narrow racing skiff. How he would
convey across the river both loads and men, was not easy to
understand.

Long and vexatious were the preliminary negotiations, and
more than once he ordered away the canoes, as the price of his
work was disputed by us. Two yards of calico per load was at
last agreed upon, and, after some hours, all were safe on the
opposite bank except the carts.

Fearing the old man, on seeing these, would refuse the
responsibility of their transport in such tiny craft and perhaps
remove the canoes, we seized the whole lot, and by lashing
poles across them, made a strong platform on to which the
vehicles and their precious burdens were secured. The wily

68

FETISH

natives looked on without comment ; but when all was ready
for a start they demanded double payment, refusing to be
responsible for loss if the canoes capsized. We paid at once,
and without mishap negotiated our most formidable obstacle.
The blue waters of the great lake we knew would be visible in a
few days, repaying us for all these uncomfortable incidents ; and
our men went almost mad around their camp fires that night as
they dramatically described how their entry into Ujiji would
astonish the Arabs.

The Wavinza presented a marked contrast to Mirambo''s
people. Their villages were untidy, more scattered, and many
wrecked by slave-raiders. One extremely bad result of this
was to ►drive the men on to the road as highway robbers, in
order to support their families. Several of our men were
severely handled, and it was only by posting strong guards at
intervals we were able to march with any safety. All through
this harassed country it was interesting to notice the numerous
little spirit-houses erected to ancestors whose protection they
needed so much. The great wealth and general safety of
Mirambo's tribe apparently called for no special appeal to the
spirit-world. They were happy, the sun was shining, there
were few tribal clouds. But across this river the shadows of
privation and war, all caused by slavery, had fallen, and in
their adversity they thought of gods. I could not help com-
paring this natural action with those of other countries.
Humanity seems everywhere inclined to act as the Wavinza.

I had noticed heaps of little stones and sticks piled up
either at the end of deserts, or forests, or on hill-tops. That
these had some special significance was certain, as the natives
never do such things merely as a pastime. On inquiry I
received various explanations from old porters.

One described the pile as meaning a barrier erected by the
traveller against " a following devil." Another said practically
the same: " The snake crawls around it and is delayed. The
lion smells it and fears a trap. The traveller may rest his

69

FETISH

burden on it without stooping. An enemy fears medicine
buried underneath.'' Doubtless there are many other ex-
planations in different tribes, but I think the following is the
best. After a hard day's hunting, and consequently being
very tired, I had to climb a steep, rocky hill, accompanied by
only one gun-bearer. The sun was scorching our faces, and,
just before reaching the summit, I saw the man pick up a stone
and add it to one of these cairns as he reached the hill-top.
The cairn was exactly on the top of the ridge. I rested ; we
were both exhausted for the moment.

"What did you throw^ that stone on the pile for?" I
asked. The question seemed to puzzle him ; he did not know
what I was driving at.

" Nothing," replied he.

" Don't answer me so stupidly," I said. " You never do
anything without a reason. Tell me why you did it."

Note his reason, for it seems to carry one back across the
centuries.

" Was not the sun hot ? — was not the hill steep ? I was tired,
but I had strength to reach the top. I added the stone to the
pile, at the same time saying to myself that trouble is over, and
— may I reach the top of every hill I start to clijnb.''''

It was a beautiful idea ! My mind rapidly condensed the
train of thought into — assistance rendered, gratitude, public
acknowledgment. Away beyond those stones on the hill-top
I saw another pile, erected by an Oriental, and fancy heard
him call the place " Mizpah."

Is this the true meaning of these cairns met with all over
Africa, either before or after a difficult part of the road ?
The Wavinza, through whose country we were now travelling,
must have had numerous causes for doubting the power of
their ancestors to help them, as ruin was everywhere.

The Lusigi River gave little trouble to cross, most of the
heavy loads being got over by means of ropes and blocks
similar to those employed by coastguard men when using the

70

UJIJI AND LAKE TANGANYIKA

mortar and rocket apparatus at wrecks on the coast. Messen-
gers were dispatched to Ujiji, which was built on the shores
of Tanganyika. The greatest Arab slave-centre was about
to be entered by men who intended to drive into it Living-
stone's wedge and utterly destroy its power.

The final march has been described by a companion :
" Tanganyika was at hand. The view came in sight at last —
just a narrow strip of the great lake gleaming in the sun,
in the distance between the trees, and enlivening each member
of the party with the assurance that to-morrow we should
be in Ujiji. For hours we crept through muddy paths, the
haunts of hippopotami, until we emerged upon the pleasant-
looking Ruiche River, the last we had to cross. Next day
we slowly marched into Ujiji, a compact body, the firing of
guns and beating of drums awakening the inhabitants to
come and look — and well they might, for they had never seen
such a sight before. Our journey of 825 miles was ended,
and the subsequent arrival of 200 more loads completed
the success of the largest East African Expedition. Stanley,
years before, took seven months to get to Ujiji ; we had taken
three, showing clearly that facilities for transport were in-
creasing rapidly."

The human donkeys, harnessed to their carts, went mad
with excitement. Nothing had been able to deter these brave
fellows. Not one had deserted over that long and difficult
journey, and, unable to restrain themselves, they rushed down
on to the sands with their carts, flung themselves en masse into
Tanganyika, shouting to its waves : " We have brought you a
child from the white man's land, to ride on your back, to
breathe your winds, to sleep on your breast — God is great ! "

It was the proudest moment of my African life.

There was just a slight mist coming over the lake as I

gazed at this scene — or, was it not possible, my eyes were

dimmed by excessive joy ?

Ascending the rising ground to the east I let myself feast

73

LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY

on the sight. The mighty Tanganyika lay at my feet, extend-
ing for hundreds of miles. The dark mountain range of Goma,
on the opposite side, was visible about forty-five miles distant.
Beyond this I could picture the Congo, with its mysteries,
cannibalism, and wealth. I tried to enter into Livingstone's
thoughts as he stood here, wondering whether this mass of
water was the source of the Nile. I knew that at this spot
Africa's greatest missionary explorer was found by the intrepid
Stanley. It was an historic spot. Here centred all the villainy
which for centuries had cruelly oppressed the coloured races,
and here the Arabs were, as they thought, established in their
impregnable fortress. Little did they imagine that yonder
howling crowd of East Coast porters had deposited in their
midst a British ensigu which, in company with those of
Germany and of Belgium, would soon fly over the ruins of
their vile trade-centres.

Beside me, whilst engaged in this reverie, stood a
white-robed Arab. He appeared to be interested in my
evident joy, and with a polite bow, resting his hands on his
breast, said : " God is very great. Your journey is over.
You are glad !

" Yes,'' I answered, ''we are pleased, for it is a long way from
the coast." Wondering if Livingstone had left any lasting
impression on these men, I ventured the following questions : —

" Did you meet Livingstone ? Were you here when he
came ? "

" If you are meaning a white man, I do not know him by
that name," replied he.

I was disappointed — but it was only temporary.

Approaching the ^subject in another manner, I added :
" Don't you remember a man with a peaked cap, who carried
medicines about ; who was always looking for, and asking
questions about, rivers and lakes ; who never purchased slaves
or ivory ? Have you never heard he was met here by an other
white man named Stanley ? "

74

A WHITED SEPULCHRE

I saw the shot had hit the mark, for a smile played
across his face as he extended his hand to me, exclaiming :

"You must mean — Baba Daud and Bula Matali !

"Those are the men!" I replied. "Father David," and
" The Stone Breaker " !

Civilisation and philanthropy could not have wished for a
better name for their immortal Livingstone than that bestowed
upon him in Darkest Africa by an inhuman slave-trading
Arab. His brave discoverer, Stanley, was called the " Stone
Breaker" on account of his having blasted the rocks in the
Congo to clear the river for navigation.

Ujiji town was really ruled by the Arabs, although a
native chief was nominally its head. Most of the powerful
and wealthy Arabs lived here, superintending the transport
of ivory and slaves which came from the west. Both the
famous Tip-pu-Tib and his partner, Rumaliza, had their
principal homes in the town. The former associated himself
with, and assisted all, the early travellers, the latter eventually
fought against the Belgians for the Upper Congo.

The country to the east of Ujiji had been long since
denuded of ivory, and the enormous wealth which entered
Zanzibar did not come, as some imagined, from the immediate
Hinterland, but was collected from the regions west of
Tanganyika, where elephants abounded and ivory could be
obtained for a trifle. At this powerful centre of trade we
were nothing less than guests of the Arabs. Mighty merchant
princes, who lived in a curious mixture of luxury and squalor,
invited us to tiffin. One walked over tusks of ivory scattered
about their courtyards representing thousands of pounds.
Diseased slaves moved about in close proximity to gaudily
clothed women of the household. The slave-chain and its
captives were in evidence everywhere, whilst brutal half-caste
fighting men lounged about the verandahs of the most wealthy.
The whole appearance of the place was like a whited sepulchre,
presided over by smooth-talking, clean, perfumed, and polite

IVORY AND SLAVES

Arabs, who, in their conduct towards us, were always courteous
and generous. Out of respect for us the slave-market was
abolished, although active slave-trading was carried on in
the town.

Strolling along the sands one evening I came upon eight
dying slaves, who were suffering from smallpox. They were
beyond hope, and had been placed close to the water that
the crocodiles might carry them off when the sun set. No
one was allowed to go near them under penalty of being
shot by a soldier who kept guard. I passed three other bodies
partly eaten by hyenas. It was the usual manner of getting
rid of slaves who were of no value. To a vounsc Arab who
accompanied me, I remarked :

" Why don't you endeavour to cure the smallpox and save
the life.?"

" Oh ! " replied he, with a shrug of the shoulders, " it's
not worth it. They are Pagans, and we have had all the
expense and trouble of bringing them from the Congo for
nothing. Who will carry their load of ivory to the coast .f^"

Ivory ! always ivory ! What a curse the elephant has been
to Africans ! By himself the slave did not pay to transport,
but plus ivory he was a paying game.

The Wajiji, amongst whom we lived, were bright,
industrious people. They had large markets every day where
palm-oil, ground nuts, and maize flour could be bartered in
exchange for calico, beads, salt, or brass-wire. An enterprising
man would purchase a goat, cut it into small pieces, and open
a miniature butcher's shop. Another invested in a jar of
palm-oil (which is made in large quantities in the northern
districts) and retailed small saucerfuls, sufficient to make a
light for one night. Bananas in great quantities were sold
at about 2d. for a bunch of one hundred. Fowls ranged at
from 2d. to 3d. each. New-laid eggs, one for a needle or two
for a teaspoonful of salt. The staple food of all natives is
porridge, made either from the flour of cassava or maize, with

76

THE LAUNCH OF A CANOE

a little relish such as meat, fish, or native spinach. Fish in
large quantities were brought to market every morning ; the
most tasty are the sangala, which resemble cod, and in taste
are not unlike salmon. I have known these to scale 90 lbs.,
and it is quite common to see fish weighing anything from
10 to 50 lbs. each. They may be caught with the ordinary
spoon-bait, which they take readily if the sun is shining, and
afford excellent sport, fighting like salmon; but you must fish
in deep water, in a canoe. They may be seen in great numbers
leaping out of the water like bonito, and are not found in Lake
Nyasa. It is a pretty sight at night to see the hundreds of
small lights carried by the fishermen to attract the shoals of
whitebait, which they scoop up with a net alongside the
canoe. Seine-fishing is practised'; but the crocodiles in many
places are so numerous that they follow up the net, and tear it
into pieces whilst devouring the fish.

The best canoes are dug out of immense trees which grow
on the west coast; some are 150 feet high. These, when
roughly adzed, are dragged down the mountains to the water,
where the village medicine-man, for a fee, performs an elaborate
ceremony over the newly born infant, as he calls it. By the aid
of whitewash, made out of decomposed felspar, variegated with
red tints of iron-oxide, he draws fantastic designs all over the
boat, always marking two immense eyes on the bow. Charcoal
is used for the pupils, a small dot of whitewash painted in the
centre to represent a cataract ; and when the whole is sur-
rounded by a broad ring of white, the canoe presents more an
appearance of some evil-eyed dragon than the fresh innocence
of a new-born babe ! The Africans, like the Chinese, love to
draw hideous figures. They say it scares away bad spirits.
The good ones are not catered for. It is the same idea again.
Drive away evil agencies ! One thing was certain. It would
most effectually scare away any fish as long as the colouring
pigment was visible.

As it is being pushed into the lake by crowds of boys

77 E

THE PEOPLE OF THE PLAIN

(no adult being allowed to touch it — youth must, they say,
baptize youth) the old man holds aloft a zebra's tail from
which palm-oil is dripping, and, rushing into the water, he
shouts his blessing in these words : " May the winds you hear
only sing, not howl. May the crocodile sleep as you swim
over him. May the hippopotamus miss you if he charges,
and, when you sink, may it be because the weight of fishes will
be too great to carry. It is good-bye to the forest, thou child
of the lake ! " The whole company of men, women, and
children then rush wildly into the water, presenting the
happy spectacle of human beings enjoying real fun.

It is not within the province of these reminiscences to enter
into the various theories advanced to account for the deep
trough in the heart of Africa which contains this great lake.
Amongst many native legends the following is the best I
have heard : Many years ago there was a great plain where
the lake now is, inhabited by people called the Wa'nyika
(" people of the plain In one of the villages there was
a secret spring known only to one family, every member of
which was sworn to secrecy, and on no account were they to
let any one know where the well was situated. A medicine-
man had told their ancestors that, if ever a stranger drank
the water, it would at once rise over the well-top, overflow
the plain, and drown every one. One day, when all the family
were absent from home except a woman who was pounding
the corn, a stranger arrived, saying he had travelled from
Tanga in the south and was carrying copper to Ujiji. He
was very tired, and begged for water. The woman longed
to possess the copper bracelets he was wearing, and, in ex-
change for them, she told him where to find the well. No
sooner had he quenched his thirst than the water bubbled
up, overflowed the village and the whole plain ! The woman
remembered the old prophecy and hastened to warn all to
flee to the hills, but too late ; all were drowned except the
man from Tanga, who saved himself by making a raft of

THE PEOPLE OF THE PLAIN

bango reeds. The water rose until it became mixed with
other small lakes, and this formed what is now the Tanga-
n'yika, or, as they explain it, " The Tanga-man ^ stole the
Nyika (or Plain)."

When our early explorers discovered this water it had
no outlet to the sea; but subsequently it burst its barriers,
and is now the greatest head-water of the Congo. During
my residence on its shores, it fell eleven feet in twelve
years. I leave the curious reader to compute the quantity
of water which would have to pass through this outlet in
order to reduce its height thus. The surface has been
calculated to cover thirteen thousand square miles. Truly
it may be termed an inland fresh- water sea.

I captured, stained, and sent to England a beautiful
medusa which was floating on the surface. It proved to be
a most interesting and unique specimen, so much so that the
Royal Society sent out an expedition to study the marine
fauna. It is common knowledge that several new shells,
sponges, and fish were discovered, and the theory that the lake
had been connected with the sea was very much strengthened.

A native rather astonished me one day by bringing me a
large flat lump of some black, greasy substance (afterwards
proved to be bitumen). On inquiring where it came from,
he replied :

"From the forest. It falls with the lightning. When
the thunder speaks it throws this from the clouds."' Other
Europeans had seen bitumen at Ujiji. One of the French
priests had also noticed it on their wooden houses ; they came
to the conclusion it fell during atmospheric disturbance. I have
never seen it floating on the lake ! Where did it come from ?
There are boiling springs to the north ; but, up to the present,
no one appears to have discovered the source of this bitumen.
Are there immense reservoirs of mineral oil near the lake,
waiting to be used by future generations ?

^ Katanga is south-west of Ujiji, and contains vast deposits of copper.

79

THE PEOPLE OF THE PLAIN

I will not tire the reader by describing the different tribes
who live in these regions as they are very much intermarried,
and, although retaining distinctive names, they have for the
most part the same characteristics. We may roughly divide
them into two sections. Part live in the hills and keep
cattle. The remainder inhabit the lake shore, many being
fishermen. In nearly all cases the meat-eating tribes rule
over those who live at a lower altitude, subsisting on fish and
grain. Numbers of the northern tribes are skilful in the
manipulation of iron ore, which they smelt in rude furnaces.
Spears of all sizes are forged, which would in no way disgrace
a European blacksmith.

On one occasion, after a native had finished a spear I had
ordered, he asked : " Can your people work iron as good as
that?"

I despatched Tom for my housewife, and, extracting a
sewing-needle, handed it to the blacksmith, saying :

" Yes ! Our people make many fine things. Look at that !
Feel its point ; is it not sharp and smooth ? "

He felt the point, examining the eye, and placing his hand
over his mouth — a sign of astonishment — asked :

" May I keep this ? "

"You may," I answered, and passing a piece of thread
through the eye, I tied it around his neck, hoping it might
become of use if ever he or his descendants wore softer raiment
than the old stiff* goat-skin which was supposed to be hiding
his nakedness.

He probably looked on the gift as a charm against death,
and, if not lost, it will be handed down as the " white man's
medicine."

80

CHAPTER V

Opposition of the Natives — Launch of the Morning Star — Tip-
pu-TiB — The Lofu River — Building a Steam Vessel — A
Tragedy — Rugaruga Bullies.

THREE months' residence in Ujiji had not elapsed ere
we crossed diplomatic swords with the Arabs, opening
what eventually proved to be a duel to the death. The
game commenced by their assuring us of their anxiety to protect
our interests, and ourselves, from the wild natives. We were
informed our wishes were to them commands, and their ser-
vices were at our disposal both in peace and war. An Arab,
like the lion, is most dangerous when silently stalking his
prey. With his curved dagger drawn, and his tongue hurling
threats at you, he is not half so near to cutting your throat as
when protesting eternal friendship. Secret conferences, we
knew, were being held at night in their enclosures. Some pre-
sentiment of danger disturbed their hitherto serene monopoly
of the traffic in humanity. This steel boat must be a small
man-o'-war, intended to destroy the slave dhows. We were,
they supposed, disguised servants of the British Consul at
Zanzibar. In fact, they instinctively felt we had thrown down
the glove in their very midst, not as a direct challenge to fight
with rifles (we had only sporting weapons), but rather as com-
petitors in the struggle for supremacy. We were seeking to
obtain not only the country, but the right to lay down laws
which, they knew, spelt ruin to their autocracy. Such were
the deductions we were able to make from reports brought by
loyal men in our service.

Not caring for, or even seeing the use of, open warfare,
they resorted to " pin-pricks.'" It was necessary to erect a

81

OPPOSITION OF THE NATIVES

grass shelter from the sun, under which to build our vessel.
At first this was not permitted. " Oh no ! " they exclaimed ;
" it is against Arab customs to allow strangers to build any
house in the country; it means taking possession." On being
politely requested to furnish umbrellas, and men to hold them
over our heads from sunrise to sunset, whilst we screwed
up bolts and iron plates, they were brought to reason and
saw the absurdity of their position, but the shed must be
destroyed simultaneously with the launching of the boat.

The actual work of bolting together the metal sections
was full of interest to both Arabs and natives. A steel boat
was, of course, a novelty. They tapped the side with their
spears, declaring the hippopotamus would thrust his tusk
through it. An old Arab, who was really our worst enemy,
praised the work, checking his young people when they made
disparaging remarks about its being only a kettle.

No sooner was the boat completed than he flatly declined
to give his permission for it to be moved into the lake.
No ! it must remain on the sand. " If you go away from
here we shall not be able to protect you, and, if you are
killed, what answer shall we send to the Sultan at Zanzibar ?

They really wanted to keep us under their observation.
We must not be allowed to get at the ears of the thousands
who, up to the present, had not learnt to know what freedom
meant. It was the day of finesse ! The foil, not rapier,
had to be used at present. Later on, the sword and rifle
were to come into full play. This initial challenge was met
by our at once assenting to the wisdom of their realising
the great responsibility for our safety which rested on their
shoulders. We pointed out that the Sultan of Zanzibar
would also hold them answerable for wasting our time, and
that a special mail would be sent to the coast, conveying
to his Highness our regrets that his subjects at Ujiji had
not been able to obey his orders to permit us to travel
wherever we wished through his dominions. And further,

82

A Slave Dhow

A slave dhow dug out of a large tree in the Goma mountains opposite Ujiji, and built
up at the sides. Sails are made of American calico. Two Arabs are on the quarter-deck,
and a sailor is bringing on shore a tusk of ivory. These vessels sail swiftly before the
wind, often escaping from the pinnaces of our men-of-war.

1

The '-Morning Star" at Anchor

The " Morning^ Star " was dragged overland from Zanzibar to Ujiji, 823 miles. The s.s,
"Good News" is in a dry dock, quarried out of rock, floated by pith-wood after being wrecked.
Salvage operations took four months, as natives had to work under water. The Author is in
white, and near him is Alexander Carson, b.sc, who died near this spot. From the opposite hills
Livingstone first saw the Lake.

LAUNCH OF THE "MORNING STAR"

as it would be at least five months before a reply could be
received, we were enclosing the account of our expenses,
which we presumed would be levied by the Sultan on the
Governor of Ujiji.

Down came their house of cards ! Touch an Arab's
pocket, and he is like other people. Next morning we
received intimation that " taking into consideration, &c. &c. ''
— the usual universal palaver — " we might launch the vessel ! ''

Victory number one. Launched she was, the very next
day ! Surrounded by hundreds of natives, and all the Arabs
in full dress, we sent into the blue waters of Tanganyika the
Moiiimg Star.

The obnoxious building shed was immediately razed to
the ground, according to our promise. The fatted calf was
killed and eaten by perhaps the most picturesque guests
imaginable. Gold-embroidered coats adorned the proud
Arabs. Filthy, greasy skins, and bark cloth, hung around
the limbs of the Wajiji. Naked boys crammed rice into
their mouths with the usual exuberance of youth. Vicious,
bloodthirsty-looking scoundrels fired guns and danced on
the sand, performing mad evolutions of mimic warfare,
spearing imaginary foes. Close at hand, sitting gracefully
on the lake, our little vessel danced over the waves as if
eager to commence its mission. The red ensign flying from
the mast-head seemed to fling out its silent challenge to
the Arab colours which floated from the huge slave-dhows
at anchor in the roadstead. What a scene to remember.
The immediate actors were unknown to the great outside
world, and yet who would not be proud to have been present
at this birthday of freedom on distant Tanganyika.

As may be imagined, various and numerous were the
questions asked.

" What are you going to do with the saucepan vessel ? "

" Are you going to carry ivory ? "

" No ! "

85

TIP-PU-TIB

" Slaves?"
" No!''

" Is it for war ? "
" No!"

''Then what is it for?''

There was only one answer, and it was not understood.
How could it be ?

" We are going to show the natives how to live ! "
Live I Why, they live for us; they are made to be our
slaves," they exclaimed.

" Hawa wazungu wapambavu ! " (" these white men are
foolish people"). Fancy coming all the way here, and
bringing a boat to help pagans ! It was too ridiculous for
words.

That evening, from the verandah, I gazed down at the
lake just as the sun was disappearing behind the Goma
mountains. Long shadows were being cast by the tall
cocoanut-palms, and they seemed to me to illustrate the
real meaning of the day's events. It was a day of shadows
thrown across the pathway of tyranny. We had not the
heart to haul down the grand old British flag, emblem of
liberty and justice, but left it at the mast-head all that
night. As I rose to retire to rest, I raised my cap in
respectful salute to the dear old flag, for it was the first
time I had seen it fluttering over a British craft in Darkest
Africa.

I must now introduce the principal Arabs who will figure
in this drama of Central Africa.

The first, and by far the most important, was the great
Tip-pu-Tib. Although not of pure Arab descent, he was the
most influential. His activity was astonishing. He possessed
a frank, manly character, enlivened by humour, and loved
immensely to play practical jokes upon his intimate friends.
In business there was no beating about the bush ; it was

86

TIP-PU-TIB

always " take it or leave it," and, in warfare, " unconditional
surrender " was the basis of his terms to all enemies who
sued for peace. His power was sung around most camp-
fires, from the East Coast to Stanley Pool on the Congo.
His very name was sufficient to strike terror into the hearts
of all who were liable to attack.

The next in influence was his partner Rumaliza. These
are not their real names, but those by which they are
known in the Interior — a kind of fighting title. " Rumaliza "
signifies " one who utterly finishes." This man was exactly
the opposite in character to Tip-pu-Tib. He was a pure
Arab — quiet in manner, cultured and courteous, always a
gentleman in his dealings with us. He is still alive, residing
in Zanzibar. Tip-pu-Tib is dead.

Let me at once place on record my sincere appreciation
of the kindness shown to me for many years by both these
powerful men, for on one or two occasions they saved my life
from the plots of their co-religionists during a period of great
disturbance. I cannot say a word for their cruel trade, but
I gratefully acknowledge their loyal and disinterested attach-
ment to me. Although it brought upon them much trouble
they never forsook their English acquaintance, whose life
was at all times in their hands; and whose constant protest
against their vile work was always received with politeness,
and the remark, ''We must difter on these subjects, but not
quarrel."

At South Tanganyika second-rate men, most of them
half-caste Arabs, acted as middle-men on behalf of the Ujiji
merchant princes.

Across the plateau Lake Nyasa was held by Mlozi Jumbe,
Makanjira Mponda, and others who were more or less
linked together by religion as well as trade. This combina-
tion was not to be trifled with. A few isolated white men
could do nothing but undermine their stronghold, certainly
not carry it by direct assault. An impatient philanthropist

87

KAVALA ISLAND

of the "go for them'" school wrote me a letter about this
time, saying, " What are you playing at with those beastly
Arabs ? String tJiem up ! I must not anticipate events now
by describing the " stringing up," or the reader may accuse
me of undue haste. To my bellicose correspondent I wrote :
" If you are anxious to do your creditors a service, insure
your life for a million, come out by next steamer, bring
the string with you, and show us how it^s done.*" Any fool
could have got his throat cut, but it would not have brought
us any nearer the attainment of our ends.

We left Ujiji as soon as possible and established a marine
depot on the west coast, near the terminus of the main
slave-road from Manyema. John Penry was the first of
our party to succumb to fever, after a long illness. He was
soon followed by James Dunn, a young carpenter, who was
found dead in bed after repeated attacks of malaria.

Having prepared our base at Kavala Island, we sailed to
the south end to receive the material for building the first
steam vessel to navigate the great lakes.

During the first and second years, numerous voyages were
made in the small lifeboat for the purposes of survey work
and establishing friendly relations with the native chiefs.

To be in that open boat, beating 250 miles against the
south-east monsoon, was an experience in yachting not to
be surpassed anywhere. From east to west coast, by night
and day, she thrashed against the white-crested waves,
drenching all on board. Her native crew would hide beneath
grass mats, under the thwarts, when the heavy clouds burst
and a tornado of rain and wind descended, threatening to
capsize us. The inky darkness was lighted by sheets of fire,
accompanied by thunder which made them cry out, ''God
is angry ! Twelve years of experience at sea had not shown
me how a storm looked from an open boat. To be on a
level with, and often beneath, the crests of waves, was a
different thing from walking on the bridge of an ocean

88

THE LOFU RIVER

liner. Waterspouts were common, rushing about from one side
of the lake to the other like demons; in fact the natives
called them " devils'* tails."" Fortunately they always missed
us, but the accompanying whirlwind drove us about as if
we had been a cork on the water.

With only one exception the natives we met with were
friendly, bringing food for sale wherever we anchored. At
the south end we sailed up the Lofu River, having taken
sixteen days from Kavala Island. The river, which drains
the great valley, was nearly blocked up by sud. Numerous
hippopotami gave us to understand we were interlopers by
raising their enormous heads uncomfortably near the boat.
Ugly crocodiles, in large numbers, slid off the sandbanks as we
drew near. Storks, cranes, ibis, cormorants, and egrets adorned
every creek, whilst thousands of wild geese and duck of many
kinds stood closely packed together on the mud-flats; never
having been shot at, they took no notice of us until we passed
within a few yards of where they stood. It was fortunate
for us they lived here in such numbers, as eventually they
became our food-supply during famine.

We were now amongst the Walungu, who owned nearly
the whole of the southern end of the lake. Formerly a
numerous tribe, at this time they were a scattered people,
exposed to the Arab raids on one hand and to the fierce
Awemba on the other. The one swooped down from the
hills, like the fish-eagles, as the Walungu termed it. The
other rushed along both sides of the river, completing the
work of ruin.

Small groups of villages were built on the floating sud,
which was banked in mid-stream, forming small islands,
thus affording protection from enemies on the mainland. They
were naturally suspicious ; only one old fisherman ventured
to paddle out to sell fish, but of course he was in reality
spying on us. He said that the whole country was at war,
and that we were not safe from attack anywhere up the river.

89

BUILDING A STEAM VESSEL

A mile or two ahead a broad valley opened out, on
which could be seen several villages surrounded by stockades-
Near this we formed a permanent camp, and prepared ground
on which to lay the keel of the S.S. Good News^ which was
expected to arrive at any time. We had not long to wait;
for whilst sitting at breakfast, a stranger suddenly appeared
in our camp, and without form or ceremony introduced
himself as "Lieut. Pulley, of her Majesty's Navy." He had
accompanied Mr. Fred Moir from Lake Nyasa with the first
consignment of our vessel. In a few days we were surrounded
with steel frames, keel-plates, tools, &c., &c. The cheerful
society of these strangers acted as a tonic. They told us
of their exciting journey across country, of war on the Shire
River, where, unfortunately, brass bearings had been cut
out of our cylinders, brass steam-cocks chopped off to make
ornaments, angle-irons bent double, and rod-iron stolen to
make spears. Chapter after chapter of such misfortunes to
our vessel followed in succession, until one wondered which
end of the ship to attempt to construct first. The most
amusing of all was to find that the great iron rudder could
not be traced.

It must be borne in mind into what a multitude of
pieces a steam vessel has to be divided in order to permit
of its being carried by porters; also that the whole had to
pass up the Zambezi and Shire Rivers in barges, then through
the Shire Highlands and up Lake Nyasa, and finally across
the Plateau to Tanganyika, a journey of nearly 1000 miles.
War against the white man was raging at the time, and
these thousands of loads of metal presented great temptation
to the half-savage tribes through whose country they were
transported by the African Lakes Corporation. The depar-
ture of Hore for Zanzibar left but three of us to build the
vessel. It was slow work. Those thousands of rivets haunted
my dreams. Fever was sapping our constitutions, and the
task at times seemed too great. Day by day plate was

90

A TRAGEDY

added to plate; but, as the structure neared completion,
it was obvious to me that one more of my comrades would
not long survive the physical strain of such hard work and
fever combined.

I found recreation necessary. A few hours' tramp after
game supplied the required change, and often a few hours in
a canoe, duck-shooting, gave me a pleasant Saturday afternoon's
enjoyment. On one of these occasions I took out both my
boys, making them paddle the canoe, and they enjoyed the
fun of picking up the ducks. Our boat was hauled up on to
a clean sandy island whilst I had lunch.

The river was very tempting for a bathe, for the heat of
the sun made one long to plunge into the cool stream. Both
lads began paddling about in the shallow water. I called to
Tom, warning him to be careful of crocodiles. At this he
laughed, and, pointing to a small packet suspended around his
neck, he said : " Master, I am not afraid. See this packet ? It
contains some of the medicine I bous^ht on the road from that
man who was nearly caught by the lion."" I recollected both
the incident and also hearing him say he would purchase
the charm.

" Don't be silly, boy ! " I said. " Crocodiles are not scared
by such things, and, besides, that particular charm is against
lions, not crocodiles."

It's all the same," he laughingly answered ; " no beast can
hurt me as long as I wear it. Muungu bass ! Only God ! "

They were the last words I was ever to hear him speak !
Leaving me he again joined his companion, the pair keeping
quite close to the shore in shallow water. As I watched them
I noticed a large piece of dried banana-stalk slowly drifting
down-stream towards the lads. They immediately caught sight
of it, and, boy-like, saw no end of fun if they could secure it
to play with.

To my horror Tom plunged into the stream and made for
the prize.

91

A TRAGEDY

I shouted, " Come back, you young fool ! " He half turned
his face towards me, and the next instant he disappeared,
evidently struggling with something beneath the water. All
doubt was at once removed, for instantly a crocodile's tail
swished out of the water as it forced itself downwards with my
faithful little servant and companion, who had trusted to his
worthless charm and lost his life.

For the first time in my experience I felt lonely ! The
silent, cruel river seemed to mock at the other boy's grief as
he covered himself with mud and sand, emblems of mourning.

Just a ripple, and Tom left us. The sudden cessation of
his happy existence appeared inexpressibly sad. Yes I I was
lonely ! Men who have lived in the African bush will know well
what I mean and what I felt. We become attached to our
black attendants, to the boy who anticipates our every w^ant,
who serves us cheerfully at all hours. Strong men, who would
scorn the idea of being helpless, absolutely lean on these
children of the forest so far as their personal comfort is con-
cerned. Does a long march end in rain ? The boy is there.
Wet firewood ? No matter, dinner is cooked. Hot bath
ready. Pipe, tobacco, and dry clothes all at hand in the tent.
It is "Boy!" all the time; without him, bush-life would be
unbearable ! I am not ashamed to say that, when the Lofu
River closed over Tom, for the second time in Africa I could
not clearly see the water for mist — this time caused not by
excessive joy, but intense sorrow.

Go where we may in the Interior, this implicit trust in
charms will be witnessed. Women and girls will unhesi-
tatingly bathe in the very waters where, but a day previously,
a neighbour was seized by crocodiles. Fishermen will wade
up to the armpits, following their calling, without fear of
being dragged down like yesterday's victim. Boys will swim
about in sight of these dangerous creatures lying asleep on
adjacent rocks or sand. Remonstrate with them, and the
invariable reply will be " It's God's affair ! "

92

RUGARUGA BULLIES

Beyond the Lofu the plains afforded splendid sport whilst
in search of food. The graceful Puku antelope were in con-
siderable numbers, and, never having been hunted by Euro-
peans, they were not at all difficult to shoot. Zebra roamed
about quite near to the villages ; the natives told us they did
not care for the meat, as it was tough, and this probably
accounted for their tameness.

Kitimbwa was the principal chief; he is mentioned by
Livingstone, and the old man told us he remembered the
Doctor's visit to Liendwi. His chief weakness was for native
beer. He complained of the constant attacks upon his people
by the Awemba and Arabs, and begged us to give him guns
and gunpowder for defence. This was out of the question,
but we sent to the Arabs requesting them to let these people
alone.

A most insulting reply was returned. " If we wanted to
fight, they were ready. If we did not like war, we were to
' clear out ! It was evident these half-caste villains needed
different handling — from such men as Tip-pu-Tib at Ujiji. So
we sent back, inviting them to come and talk over matters.
To our surprise they came ! Some were dressed in hideous
costumes, having around their heads strips of buffalo hide with
the hairs standing outwards, something like a sweep's brush.
Others had wild-<*ats"* skins suspended from their loins. The
leading men looked devilish, arrayed in black long-tailed
monkey skins; all were armed with spear, muzzle-loading
rifle, and long knives. They were twenty-three in number.
Our force was composed of three Europeans and eight
Mohammedan workers, who could not be trusted to fight
against their co-religionists. It was necessary to deliver an
ultimatum, and to take the consequences. Our vessel had to
be built; we must have peace and food. There could be no
compromise.

With rifles loaded, and kept in our hands, we received
these interesting neighbours and invited them to be seated in

95

RUGARUGA BULLIES

our verandah. Three six-chambered revolvers lay handy on
the table when the palaver commenced. Addressing them in
Suahili, I informed them we were personally acquainted with
all the leading Arabs in the country, and we had never before
been insulted. It was reserved for them, who were not real
Arabs, to send insulting messages to us, and we had called
them in order to express our objection to their action; also
to ask why they attacked the people to whom we must look
for labour and food.

" What business is that of yours ? " the leader sneeringly
answered. " If you don't like it, you can go away. We have
no quarrel with you. "

" Thank you ! I replied. " We decline your advice."

Pointing to our vessel on the stocks, I continued :

"Do you see that ship? It came from Europe. It is, as
you have heard, being built by us. We are not here to quarrel
with any one, much less to play ; our time is valuable ; we want
peace and food for our men, and, what is most important for
you to know is, we intend to stay here and finish our work.
If you attack us we shall not run away and hide in the hills
and amongst the reeds, as these poor Walungu do, but we
shall defend ourselves with these,'' pointing to our revolvers
and rifles. " Those are our words. The tongue utters words
which wisdom counsels you to listen to. It is always better to
use the tongue than the rifle in an argument."

" Tu-ta-pita" we will go ") was the only reply to this
ultimatum. There was not a man amongst them. They were
a set of bullies and cowards. I never met a Rugaruga, as
they are called, who would face a stand-up fight. They wiU
howl and swing their guns about, brandish knives, and spear
women or retreating men ! But look down the business end of
an enemy's rifle ? Never !

If you wish to see brave black men from these regions 3'^ou
must follow them after they have been trained by European
ocffiers, and see them storming stockades in Ashantee, or dying

96

RUGARUGA BULLIES

to a man as they did in the Somaliland disaster. These
ruffians were counterfeits, and yet they terrorised the whole
population of South Tanganyika.

Our men escorted them to the river, and as the leader got
into the canoe I said, " I hope, the next time you visit us, you
will not bring weapons, as white men do not consider it a
good custom." It was a satisfactory ending to an awkward
situation. Our people were not certain we should not be
attacked during the night, and when a leopard or hyena
overturned some cooking utensils, a panic ensued at once.
All came rushing into our houses shouting, ''Rugaruga,
master. War ! *" No trace of an enemy could be discovered
by us, and they were persuaded to go to sleep. The men
we had interviewed that morning had no more idea of
trying conclusions with us than they had of assisting in
building the vessel.

As will be told in the next chapter, they contented them-
selves with taking full revenge on the surrounding villages
beyond our neighbourhood, leaving not a single town un-
touched in all the beautiful valley of the Lofu.

97

F

CHAPTER VI

Fire and Sword — A Sceptical Native — An Angry Hippopotamus
— Launch of the Good News " — Medicine and Surgery —
A Cruel Punishment — A Native Duel : its Tragic Result.

FOR a few weeks we heard nothing more of our late
visitors, but immediately the Mohammedan fast of
Ramadan was over, hordes of the wretches overran
the country, carrying fire and sword. In less than a month
not a village existed within a radius of twenty-five miles of
our camp, excepting two which were very close to us. The
maize crop was either destroyed or carried away, canoes sunk,
and the whole of Ulungu turned into a wilderness, except
in those districts where the robbers themselves lived. It was
not our duty to fight these people, even had we possessed the
power; we were only justified in maintaining an attitude of
self-defence whilst representatives of the London Missionary
Society. Food could only be obtained by making weekly
voyages across the lake throughout the dry season.

Many natives who escaped during the general scramble
came to us for protection and sustenance, thus increasing the
severe strain on our resources. Wafipa from the east coast,
attracted by the war and reports of famine, came over in
large canoes loaded with grain. They halted at our station,
but not a pound would they sell us. We bid for the whole
cargo, but no ! They would only sell in exchange for slaves.
" One load of 60 lbs. weight for a boy, two - for a girl ;
old men and women were not marketable, as they could not
march to Zanzibar ! "

It would have been easy to seize the lot and compel them

to sell, but I doubt if our directors would have endorsed

98

A SCEPTICAL NATIVE

such high-handed procedure, so the flotilla passed upstream
to the Arabs, returning in three days loaded with young boys
and girls about ten to sixteen years of age.
As the crews paddled past they sang : —

" Daylight comes and daylight goes,
Dig, boys, dig !

(Meaning dig with the paddles.)

To-night we sleep far away,
Dig, boys, dig !

The fire has left no home for the rats.

(Meaning that, the huts having been all burned, the rats were
homeless.)

The leopard watched and caught the fawns ;
These fawns are safely by our sides.
Dig, boys, dig ! "

Is it any wonder that such sights and sounds made me
chafe at the restrictions by which we were bound, preventing
us from leaping into those canoes and pitching the singers
into the river. As I watched those young people being
carried away from parents, home, and country, I felt ashamed
of my colour, and the very name of our vessel. Good News,
seemed little else than a mockery amidst the cruel deeds done
under her shadow. An opportunity to avenge such an insult
to my colour presented itself sooner than I anticipated.

Smallpox completed the series of calamities which fell
on the Walungu. It only wanted a crowd of frogs to
reproduce the well-known Egyptian picture.

Whilst I was lying on my back beneath the steamer,
hammering up keel rivets, an inquisitive native edged up to
me and asked :

" Is this vessel not all iron ? "

" Yes," I answered. " Why do you ask ?

Picking up a washer, he beckoned me to the river, and
dropping it in, said:

99

A SCEPTICAL NATIVE

"Do you see that?"

"No! I don't" I replied. "How can I?— it's out of
sight."

" Yes, it is ; but what I meant was, do you see, it sinks ? "
" Of course it sank ; it's iron."

" Well ! " he exclaimed, pointing to the steamer. " If
such a little piece of iron sinks, how do you expect that big
lump will swim ? "

He thought he had cornered me.

" Look here, old chap," I said, " just you wait until this
moon dies, then come here and help us put her in the river,
and you will see her swim ; at present you must take my words
and believe them, for they are true."

He looked at me and whispered, " You are right. She
will not sink, because if the whole tribe tried they could
never carry her into the water ; she's too heavy ! No, she
will neither sink nor swim ! " With this parting shot he
left me.

He was soon to learn that necessary lesson which must
be taught all primitive people — that a white man speaks
the truth. Grease for the launching ways had to be pro-
cured from hippopotami, some of which will yield several
bucketfuls of fat when in good condition. Many a day's
exciting sport was enjoyed hunting these valuable creatures,
especially when the pursuit was followed in canoes, for you
can never be certain their great carcases won't come up
suddenly under the canoe, disturbing its equilibrium; and
there was always the danger of crocodiles joining in the hunt.

One old beast gave me an uncomfortable time when out
duck-shooting. Having shot some Egyptian geese, we paddled
the canoe up a narrow creek to pick up the birds, which lay
on a mud-flat. My boy " Kabatawe," who had taken the
place of poor Tom, was with me in the boat. No sooner had
we entered the creek and run on to the mud, than a hippo
rose behind us, right in the entrance to the creek, grunting in

AN ANGRY HIPPOPOTAMUS

an unpleasant manner, and evidently annoyed at our presence.
Kabatawe leaped overboard in an instant, bang into the soft
mud, and there he remained up to his waist, a picture of
utter helplessness. The hippo plunged about only a few
yards distant, looking as if he meant making trouble.

" Shoot, master, shoot ! Pull me out ! Mother ! I shall
die ! and similar remarks came from the lad in rapid succes-
sion. Extracting the cartridges from my fowling-piece to
prevent accident, I held it out to him and dragged him into
the boat. " Kill it, master — kill it ! he shouted, as he
scraped the grey mud from his body. Oh for a Kodak at
that moment !

" Lie down, you little monkey," I commanded, " and keep
quiet ; my gun is only for birds."

The mud was too soft to attempt trying to land, and the
brute remained bobbing up and down, right in the only track
by which it was possible to escape. To fire duck-shot at him
was to court disaster ; our best weapon, for the moment, was
passivity. As I anticipated, he did not understand what we
intended to do, and moved a little upstream.

"Now, my son," I whispered, "get hold of your paddle,
and gently push the canoe oft' this mud the next time that
creature goes under water, and then sit quiet."

Our wily foe must have heard our movements, for he at
once became excited, turning half somersaults in the water, a
well-known practice of theirs when irritated. It is equivalent
to the action of a bull pawing the ground. These evolutions
brought him back to the original place, directly in front of the
creek. It was getting towards evening, and I feared attack.
We must make a dash for it or be caught like rats in a
trap.

"Now, boy," I said, "give me that other paddle, and
the next time he disappears, paddle for all you are worth ;
don"'t stop to look around."

As the water closed over the beast's ugly head, we

LAUNCH OF THE ''GOOD NEWS '

dashed out; a few desperate strokes sent our canoe across
the stream, passing over the spot where we had last seen
him, and as we rushed into the opposite reeds and sprang
on shore, he rose and plunged forward, catching the stern
of the boat in his jaws, smashing its side and filling it with
water. It had been quite an uncomfortable half-hour, and
I doubt if either of us could have threaded a needle had
we been asked to do so at that moment !

The same lad had another close shave a few days after-
wards. As he was dipping water from the river, a slave-
hunter seized him near our house, threw him into the canoe,
and made for the opposite bank. I happened to be looking
in that direction, and saw the scoundrel. Picking up my
rifle, I shouted, " Stop, or Til fire ! No heed was paid
to the warning, so I fired at the canoe, hoping to scare
the man. The bullet, however, struck his paddle, smash-
ing it. He immediately pitched the boy overboard, and
jumped into the reeds, whilst Kabatawe swam back to us
without encountering a crocodile. It was a narrow escape.

We were extremely glad to hammer up the last rivet
and launch the Good News into Tanganyika. I did not
forget the old sceptic, who stood amongst the crowd of
natives watching the iron vessel swimming. Making my
way up to him and touching him on the shoulder, I asked,
" What about the lump of iron swimming now

He was not to be cornered quite so easily as I imagined.
Looking straight into my eyes, and scornfully pointing to
the vessel, he answered :

" You put medicine into it ! "

The reply was extremely disappointing. I had hoped
to impress on him, and others, the fact that our word
could be relied upon. We wanted to win their confidence.

"Look here, old man," I said. "Never you mind
whether there is medicine in it or not. I told you it
would swim. Does it.?"

102

S.S. "Good News'*

This was the first steam vessel to navigate the great African lakes. It was transported in
sections up the Zambezi and Lake Nyasa and across the plateau. During the war between the
whites and blacks most of the brass fittings were cut oflT. and all rod iron stolen for spears. A
native confidently predicted that the vessel would not swim.

Tropical CREKrER^ and an Elephant I'atjtI

A unique photograph of jungle and swamp taken by Sir John Kirk, the companion of Living-
stone. Elephants are fond of hiding in such dense bush. In the centre is a good illustration of
a gigantic creeper which has wound itself in a remarkably regular manner around a small tree
It was one of these creepers we used to drag our boat out of the lake after it was sunk by the
tornado.

LAUNCH OF THE -GOOD NEWS"

"Yes, it does,'"" he answered; ''and Til believe anything
you tell me after this ! "

The pendulum had now swung too far in the opposite
direction. These Africans seemed to know no middle course,
and it was not to be wondered at. Their whole life was one
of extremes — all rain or all sunshine, feast or famine,
reckless fatalism or unwarranted cowardice. One moment,
the blazing sun ; the next, chills and night. No evening,
no moderation in anything ! With one voice they seemed
to echo the ancient saying, " Let us eat and drink, for to-
morrow we die.*"

A few more days sufficed to rig up jury-masts on the
Good News, as we had to sail her up north to our depot.
Hore had now returned, and he took command, whilst I
piloted the Morning Star. It was a grand race up the
lake with the monsoon. In the darkness we parted company,
and dropping mails at the French station of Karema, we
bowled along, shaping a course for home. We were making
a record passage, but on rounding the cape we saw the
Good News had outrun us, having arrived some hours
previously.

James Roxburgh, our engineer, who before he came to
Africa had turned the mighty shaft in Glasgow for the Ocean
liner Orient, had completed his last task. Bravely he
battled against fever month after month. The excitement
of his work kept him going, but shortly after the Good
News dropped her anchor in port for the first time, he
"crossed the bar,''' dysentery completing the mischief of
malaria.

Our ranks were being seriously reduced by these repeated
losses, but during the past three years we had found out the
necessity of avoiding undue exposure to the sun, and of being
temperate both when at work and play.

During one of many voyages along the east coast, at the
base of the Kabogo Mountains, I saw what had been a most

105

A CRUEL PUNISHMENT

cruel sacrifice, of a man who had been condemned to die,
in order to cleanse away the disgrace resting on his chief,
through his having had a son born with only three fingers.
Needless to say, the victim was a slave. They had tied the
man head downwards over a nest of red biting ants. These
insects are dreaded by every one. They will swarm over you,
biting viciously, and the more you try to drive them away,
the fiercer their attack becomes. There are few travellers
who have not suffered from their unpleasant visits. Around
the man's eyes some sticky substance had been rubbed, to
prevent the ants from blinding him. My boatmen said the
ants would not cross this substance, the object of his tor-
mentors being to preserve his eyes so that he might see
the ants coming at him in their thousands. He was quite
dead v/hen we arrived, his body being a mass of sores,
covered by thousands of ants.

On entering the village, no one could be found except
one young girl, an old woman, and a boy. They were covered
with dust, and around each one's head was a broad band
of calico, the general marks of mourning. All were crying
bitterly, tears streaming down their faces. Some travellers
have ridiculed these outward ceremonies and denounced them
as hypocritical. The facts are, that in all those mournings
distant acquaintances join, and occupy about the same position
at a funeral as the men who drive a hearse in this country
with marks of mourning, but who feel no real grief. But
the near relatives of these black people feel intensely their be-
reavement. These mourners took not the least notice of
us as we passed in respectful silence. Outside the hut lay
the dead man's hoe, his axe, bow and arrows being crossed
over one another. A broken pipe lay in the centre. How
eloquently these implements of agriculture and weapons of
war must have appealed to the bereaved relatives. They
reminded me of the sword, helmet, and empty boots which
may be seen at the burial of our soldiers.

106

MEDICINE AND SURGERY

The days seemed too short for the proper discharge of
our various duties. The rains succeeded the dry seasons more
rapidly than we Hked, and at the end of another year we
were called to mourn the loss of another comrade, as Dr.
Dineen fell a victim to disease. He had taken a keen interest
in examining the various herbs used by native doctors. His
conclusion Avas that, with few exceptions, we not only know
their remedies, but have learnt from science a more effective
way of applying them to alleviate pain or cm-e disease. Apart
from medical impostors who preyed on the general community,
there were bona-fide practitioners who sold narcotics, poisons,
sedatives, aperients, and so on. They are strong believers in
reducing the amount of blood in the veins by cupping,
especially for headache. Crushed limbs are removed with
partially sharpened axes, for they seem to have found out
that the arteries and veins close up more quickly if not
severed with a keen instrument. Whether they feel pain
as acutely as we do, I very much doubt. One thing is certain,
they bear severe pain with remarkable fortitude, and recover
from wounds which appear likely to end fatally.

That they are capable of strong feeling may be gathered
from the following incident. Two young men belonging to
different villages had deposited the usual present with the
relatives of a young girl whom they wished to marry. It
was against all custom for the relatives to accept the gifts from
two suitors at the same time, but they had done so, and
trouble followed. The young fellows had a legitimate cause
of complaint, and quarrelled. Long and angry interviews
took place between the two families without any satisfactory
result, until one lover lost all patience and seized the girl
as she was working in the garden, taking her to his house.
This brought matters to a climax; but instead of the two
villages rushing to war, as commonly happens, the old people
decided that the two young men should fight it out with
spears, only there was to be a distinct understanding that it was

107

A NATIVE DUEL

not a duel to the death. The conditions were, whoever first
speared the other through arm or leg w as to have the girl.

If the man died from his wounds, the girl should be given
to the next of kin of the deceased. No wounds were to be
made on any other part of the body.

The chief sent down, requesting me to leave the harbour,
as he feared my sailors might become involved in any trouble
which might probably follow the contest. I declined, for I
was anxious to witness black men enter the lists to imitate
the chivalry of Europe ; so, informing the chief that my men
would remain on the vessel, but that 1 intended to see the
duel, I proceeded to pay him a visit, as I had no power to
stop the fight. I was careful to let him know I came as his
guest, and slipping a packet of salt into his hand, I added,
"Tell your people I have nothing to do with this quarrel,
and am simply here as a visitor.'' Numerous pots of beer
stood ready for consumption, and the whole population was
most excited.

The old man called one of his advisers and whispered
something into his ear. Soon three others joined the party,
and after a consultation I was surprised by the chief tell-
ing me that representatives of both families had asked him
to request me to see fair play, to act as referee, and to stop
the young men from killing each other, as they feared their
own inability to control either the men or their relatives.
This was getting more interesting. These artful people saw
a way of escape out of a delicate situation, and were not slow
to avail themselves of my presence. Being desirous of assist-
ing them, as I knew these affairs nearly always ended in the
death of some one, I replied, " I agree to help you, provided
that both the combatants are called that they may hear my
instructions, as they must give me their promise to obey my
orders or take the consequences. You old men must also
understand that I will have nothing to do with the disposal

of the girl; it is not my business. White men consult the

108

A NATIVE DUEL

wishes of their daughters in these matters; they do not sell
them as you do. I simply see fair play between these two
men. Do you agree ? "
" Yes ! " they answered.

A great crowd had now assembled, and I ordered them to
be sent farther away. The two men then came forward, both
looking sullen ; they carried ugly-looking spears, with shafts
about six feet long. They were stabbing spears, not the short
assegai, which is thrown. An orator shouted out the par-
ticulars of the situation to the friends of both men, asking if
they agreed with the chiefs decision that the white man
should see fair play and decide who was the victor. They
replied in the affirmative.

Addressing the combatants, I said :

" You have heard the voices of your chief, and elders, and
relatives; are you also willing that I should judge between you,
and will you promise to accept my decision as final ? " One,
the elder of the two, answered, " Our old men have spoken
I have no use for my tongue !

The younger said, " My spear will only talk with his spear.
Boys do not refuse to obey the old men ! "

" It is good ! I added. " Whoever first touches the other's
arms or legs with his spear so as to draw blood, will win, and
I shall stop the fight ! Whoever touches any other portion
of the body with his spear so as to draw blood, loses. You
understand, this is not war, but simply to prove which of
you is the more clever with the spear ! "

" Good they replied.

The sun was dipping behind the adjacent hill, and this was
the time chosen for this most important affair. What they felt
in need of was a Coiui of Decision. Both chief and people were
more or less interested parties. I was impartial, and for the
moment took the place of the poison ordeal. If I could get
the matter decided without loss of life, it was worth the risk.

Noticing that all the men were armed, I ordered them to

111

A NATIVE DUEL

go and put their weapons in the houses, pointing out that it
was a personal quarrel to be settled by these two alone, not
by the family. Beckoning the young men into the circle, I
stepped between them, at the same time drawing a revolver,
which I held up, saying, " Remember ! No wounds on the
body ; and when I say ' Stop ! ' the man who does not do so
instantly will be spoken to by this revolver."

They were covered with grease, and looked fine specimens
of manhood. Placing them so that their spear-heads just met,
I stepped backwards with the words, Go on !

I expected a mad rush, but no such thing happened ; they
stood quite still, only leaning forward just sufficiently to allow
both blades to come well into contact. That they were in
deadly earnest could be seen, as their eyes were fixed on
each other, the crowd meantime keeping perfect silence !
They bent forward towards the ground, the muscles of their
arms quivering as each tried to press the other's spear on one
side so as to get a clear thrust. Perspiration ran down their
bodies ; physically they appeared to be equally matched. This
bending to the ground to get in the first blow was a calculated
manoeuvre, and as an exhibition of fencing with the spear it
was worth witnessing. I enjoyed seeing the use these men were
making of their brains as well as their muscles. A slip, a moment
off guard, too little or too much pressure, and — well, anything
might happen in the case of men fighting for a woman.

Weight began to tell in favour of the older man, and
suddenly he brought more pressure to bear on the blade. The
youngster gave way, there was a swift lunge forward, and the
next instant both were sprawling on the sand ; the sudden
release of the weapons threw them off their balance, and
quick as lightning the youngster, as he fell, passed his spear
clean through the thick part of his stronger opponents thigh.
As they fell the spear snapped, and the defeated man was
gripping his spear to stab his fallen conqueror, when I jumped
on his wrist, and putting my revolver close to his face, I called :

112

ITS TRAGIC RESULT

" Drop it ! You have lost ! "

It took but a second to secure the spear and order the
exulting boy off the ground. The wound was an ugly one, but
had missed all the great blood-vessels. We rolled up dried
banana skins into a ball and formed a rough tourniquet. He
could not walk, so he was carried to the beer-pots and well
soaked with native beer. That fearful gash healed in three
weeks, showing, as I said before, the remarkable recupera-
tive power they possess. That evening both sides drank beer
together; their shouts of revelry and drum-beating continued up
to a late hour, and 1 knew they were satisfied with the decision.

Were they all satisfied ? Alas, no ! In a little hut there
was a maiden, who had never been consulted in the matter.
No one seemed to consider it was necessary for her to be
taken into account. I ascertained afterwards that she was
attached to the defeated man, who came from the same country
as herself. On being told she would become the wife of the
other man, she did not reply ; but her mother, seeing tears
in her eyes, asked the reason. Still no answer. This is very
characteristic of Africans. They close up like an oyster, and
not even the fear of death will force them to speak.

It appears that, that evening, she collected her little bead
ornaments, and fancy combs made out of reeds. These she
placed in a small earthenware pot which most African girls use
as a kind of handy receptacle, and which is considered private
by her family. Her mother asked her what she was doing.
" Making preparations," was her only reply ; and going out of
the hut, she added, I shall not be long ! It was the last
time they saw her alive. I think it was near midnight when
I awoke hearing that never-to-be-forgotten wail of an African
child who has lost its grandmother. (The grandmother always
takes care of the children.) Again and again it broke the
silence of the night. " Amai ! Amai ! Amai ! " (" Grand-
mother ! This was followed by heart-broken outbursts of
grief. Calling the crew, I asked, " Do your hear that woman ?

113

ITS TRAGIC RESULT

Shout out and ask her what she is doing up there in the rocks
at night, and tell her the leopards live there."

They did as I ordered, but the only reply was, " Amai !
Amai ! "

" Come on,'"* I said ; " she**!! be killed by the leopards."

Up the rocks we clambered by the aid of the moon, but
as soon as she saw us she fled, carrying on her head a small
earthenware pot.

Don't follow, master," the men said ; " you won't catch her
like that. It's some woman w^ho is mad ; we must stalk her."

We sat down to discuss the best plan to adopt, when we
caught sight of her standing on the top of a high cliff over-
looking the lake.

" Keep still," I whispered ; " she is watching ! "

" She will jump off," replied the man next to me.

She was indeed watching, but not for us. Her eyes probably
saw the face of the wounded man who had that day lost her,
for as we looked she pitched the little pot into space and flung
herself after it.

" She's gone ! " we all exclaimed with one breath.

Yes ! the little maid had gone. Amidst the broken
fragments of her own small earthenware pot, surrounded by
the pretty bead work which had adorned her girlhood, her
mangled body was found wedged amongst the rocks at the
base of the cliff*.

No matter by what name you call it — Love, affection,
passion, madness. Whatever it was, it had enticed her away
from home, out into the dense, dark bush at midnight, and
beckoned her over that cliff" into the darker unknown.

" Amai ! Amai ! " I shall never cease to hear her farewell.

114

CHAPTER VII

A Diplomatic Scramble — Manna — The Amambwi —
Unpleasant Visitors

IT was now time to take a rest, the first portion of our
work being completed, stations having been established,
mail routes maintained, and vessels running regularly
around the lake, keeping up communication with the coast.
Five years of rough living and exacting duty were leaving
their mark on me, and a furlough home became necessary.

Great Britain, France, Germany, Belgium, and Portugal
were then paying more attention to Central Africa, and
the interesting diplomatic game or scramble (as it has been
called) for Africa commenced in earnest. Britain thought
she needed a route from the Cape to Cairo. Cecil Rhodes
began his trans-continental telegraph; Germany wanted
Zanzibar and the Hinterland ; France looked with longing
eyes from west to east and hoped to sit astride the Nile ;
Belgium, or the Congo State, began to wake up to the fact
that she possessed vast forests as well as great mineral and
vegetable wealth.

The enormously valuable consignments of ivory, which
annually entered the Zanzibar custom-house, were known
to come from the backbone of the continent, where most
of the different spheres of influence met, and it was possible
to divert this golden stream northward down the Nile,
or southward via Blantyre, or westward down the Congo.
The stream was then flowing eastward to Zanzibar, and
the question was: Who should possess this Klondyke of
ivory ? European ambition was well known at the coast,
and transmitted up-country to the various great trading-

115

MANNA

centres. Its vibrations began to be felt on Tanganyika
when I left for home. The Arabs became uneasy. Com-
mmiications received from the Nile confirmed their suspicions
that the white men had come to stay. The actual storm had
not yet begun to break, but the atmosphere was oppressive ;
there was a calm, similar to that which one experiences at
sea when near the equator, immediately before the squall
strikes the ship.

Such a squall was about to strike Central Africa, but
as yet nothing but the distant murmur of thunder could
be heard, as I turned my steps towards home, across the
plateau which separates the Lakes Tanganyika and Nyasa,
it being my intention to reach the coast via the Zambezi
River. I found this high plateau mostly composed of sand-
stone and granite, and occupied by the Amambwi tribe, who
were not only quarrelsome, but inclined to be insolent, and
were already known as notorious thieves.

It was whilst passing this district that I was shown a
very curious white substance, very similar to porridge. It
was found on the ground early in the morning before the
sun rose. On examination it was seen to possess all the
characteristics of the manna which is said to have fallen
for the benefit of the Israelites.

In appearance it resembled coriander seeds, was white
in colour, like hoarfrost, sweet to the taste, melted in the
sun, and if kept overnight was full of worms in the morning.
The natives were not allowed to gather it before asking
permission from the chief. It required to be baked if you
intended to keep it any length of time.

This substance was seen some years afterwards in the
same district by several Europeans now living, who can
vouch for the accuracy of my description of this food.
When asked what it was and where it came from, the
natives replied : " It's the food of God ! no one knows
where it comes from."" I have never seen or heard of it

116

A Village in Making

A skeleton living-hut and grain store. Villages are removed when the
soil becomes poor or for sanitary reasons, but as it entails much extra
work it is a task seldom undertaken except under compulsion, and never
unless the family have strong male relatives.

Aemha Mutilations

This tribe live on the plateau which divides Tanganyika from Lake Nyasa.
The man to the right has lost the point of his nose and fingers. The one to
the left his upper lip, point of nose, and fingers. They were an unruly lot
of people, and probably their chief was compelled to resort to extremes in order
to secure order.

THE AMAMBWI

in any other part of the world, although it may be known to
others. A cake of it was baked and sent to England, but no
one appeared to be able to determine its identity. It looked
as if it was deposited on the ground in the night, but
in what manner I was never able to ascertain. No holes
could be found in the ground near it, or one might have
concluded that insects unearthed it during the night. The
only suggestion I could think of was that it might be
a mushroom spawn, as on the spot where it melted tiny
fungi sprang up the next night. Maybe some reader can
enlighten us on the subject.

The Amambwi appeared to be constantly fighting against
the powerful Awemba, who, under the famous chief Kitimkuru,
made it most uncomfortable for any people who excited
their avarice. Cruelties of a most revolting character were
inflicted by the chiefs on all criminals. Men and women
were mutilated in a horrid manner, as the accompanying
photographs will illustrate. It was no uncommon occurrence
to meet men who were minus a nose ; ears, fingers, lips,
eyes, and even hands were sometimes cut ofl' for minor
offences against the civil laws of the tribe, e.g. : —

Penalty for stealing, loss of fingers.

Attempted murder, one or both hands.

Adultery, amongst other punishments, the loss of both eyes.

Deceiving a chief by lying, loss of lips.

Revealing the chief s secrets, loss of ears ; and so on.

In no part of Africa have I seen so much mutilation as
in this tribe on the plateau.

They were a brave lot of men ; dashing youngsters thought
little of scaling an enemy's stockade in daylight, but they
avoided annoying white men. We frequently found our
packages neatly piled up outside a village which they had
happened to attack and destroy whilst our goods were
passing. It appeared to be understood that they had no
quarrel with Europeans, although they did not want them,

119 G

UNPLEASANT VISITORS

and would not encourage them to penetrate into their country.
The reason given was, that after one of their chiefs had
been visited by a white man he took smallpox and died ;
hence their aversion for us.

The only time they came to blows was whilst Wissmann,
the German explorer, was sleeping in a village which they
desired to attack. They charged down on the village, but
finding him there, they told him to go away, as they intended
to kill the people. To this he objected, saying he was a
guest of the people and would help them defend their homes.
Placing his small machine-gun on an ant-hill, he awaited
the charge, and gave the massed warriors such a salutary
lesson that they fled, never afterwards venturing to attack
the lake people. Right across the plateau, village after
village was destroyed by these cruel people, and food was
difficult to obtain. We had a visit one night from elephants,
and of all the unpleasant night visitors, I think they are most
to be dreaded. The lion roars and keeps you all on the alert,
but seldom attacks a tent, although I have known him to do
so. The leopard sneaks about with his harsh, disjointed growl,
snatching away your favourite dog or milk-goat, but seldom
injuring men or giving you a moment's anxiety.

The hyena howls, and perhaps raids your stock of fowls,
though he is an arrant coward, and one may often hear the
men shout out, as he growls: "You liar! you thief! go and
catch rats !

But the elephants are serious invaders, commanding re-
spect. They will enter villages at night, destroying grain
stores, knocking down huts, and trampling to death the
sleepers inside. On this occasion, the first object to excite
their anger was a spare tent used for storing boxes. It was
a fortunate thing for me they did not notice the one I was
using. I was awakened by my servants, who rushed into
the tent, shouting: " Njovu, Bwana, Njovu ! " ("Elephants,
master, elephants ! " )

120

UNPLEASANT VISITORS

Never having previously hunted them, I was without
the proper rifles, besides being ignorant of their habits.
To know what a wild animal is likely to do is half the
battle. It was very dark ; the camp-fires were alight, but
not blazing.

On rising and looking out, I could see men racing about
in all directions, shouting, " Elephants ! This pandemonium
was not abated by one of the huge brutes indulging in those
unpleasant shrieks which are so well known to all who have
hunted them and been unfortunate enough to give them
good reason to charge. By the glare of the fire, I saw the
spare tent being torn out of the ground and pitched about
by the trunk of one who stood with his tail towards me.
Another was demolishing the temporary huts of my men.
A little fox-terrier, which always accompanied me, bolted out,
making straight for the animal which was busy smashing my
boxes and sending cooking utensils flying in all directions.
My only filter was thrown over its back, landing on the
fly of my tent, and being smashed to atoms as it struck
a neighbouring tree.

It was amusing to see the little terrier barking around
the elephant while he tried in vain to seize him by the trunk.
The dog evidently annoyed his opponent, for the great brute
kept on charging him and shrieking with rage, as it failed to
catch its elusive tormentor. None appeared to carry large
tusks, so probably they were a herd of females, with the bull
not far away. I well remember having a peculiar feeling of
helplessness, and a conviction that it was as unsafe to get
up into a tree as to stay on the ground. It was no use
wounding one of them, for it might only have complicated
the situation, so I fired into the air to scare them away.
Luckily, and to my great relief, they took the hint and made
off at once, crashing through the forest and reeds, and for-
tunately missing all the frightened men who were hiding in
the bush.

121

LAKE NYASA

It was the only time I was ever annoyed in this manner
at night, and certainly a repetition of the experience was not
to be desired. Once in a lifetime was quite sufficient. AVhen
they attack a village — which is seldom — the natives must be
horrified to feel the roof being lifted off their hut, and must
expect every moment to be crushed by the enormous feet.

The climate was most bracing ; at night it was quite cold
enough to sleep under two blankets. It is difficult to under-
stand how those naked people could sleep in such a low
temperature without the least particle of clothing, and the
next day travel beneath a very hot sun.

Most of the uplands appeared to be suitable for the
rearing of cattle, the grass looking both sweet and of a good
quality ; but being so far distant from markets, such an
occupation would scarcely be a financial success, even at the
present day. The Chambezi River rises in this district, and is
well known to be one of the extreme sources of the Congo.
Game was plentiful ; many fine specimens of both sable
antelope and eland were shot. The general desolation of
the country was most depressing, and we were not sorry to
reach the Stevenson road.

A great deal of controversy has been carried on about this
road, some asserting it to be a myth, existing only in the
imagination of interested diplomats ; others maintaining that
it stretched from Lake Tanganyika to Lake Nyasa, and was
therefore British territory. The facts are that it was made
for a distance of about eighty miles from Nyasa, and then
abandoned through lack of funds and the death of the engi-
neers. Our German friends were partially correct in stating
that it did not exist as drawn on our maps.

The descent to Nyasa was through extremely rugged hills,
at the base of which lived the Wankonde. Miles of banana
plantations could be seen stretching north and south across
the plain. It was indeed a treat to see the picturesque groups
of small villages built amongst the banana groves, the little

122

LAKE NYASA

paths being kept scrupulously clean. Each hut was neatly
built and ornamented with clay bricks, artistically designed.
Young unmarried men and boys lived in a kind of bachelors'
quarters, consisting of long huts divided with partitions. The
floor was covered with reed mats, and the sides of the huts were
beautifully decorated with all manner of fancy-shaped trellis-
work ; cleanliness was the predominating characteristic of the
whole place. I have not seen anything in Africa to approach
that ideal community.

At sunset scores of young men collected together for an
evening parade and bath. They trotted in a body through the
villages, keeping correct time by stamping with their feet,
accompanying the action with a song. Each warrior carried a
bundle of beautifully forged assegais in his left hand. In his
right was poised a stabbing spear. The only apology for clothes
was a brass wire ring encircling their waists. On arrival at
the lake, they simultaneously halted, each man sticking his
assegais into the sand ; then, with a shout, the whole lot dashed
into the waves which were breaking on the shore, forced onwards
by the heavy monsoon. After their wash they indulged in
dancing, and performed feats of spear-throwing, practising a
kind of sham fight. Finally they trotted back to their homes,
presenting a splendid spectacle of humanity in perfect health
and happiness. The tribe appeared to have reached an ideal
state of cleanliness, manliness, and morals, although the men
were quite nude, and the women covered only by a few inches
of calico. They had, however, reached their zenith, for only
a short period was to elapse ere they were to be the victims, as
we shall see, of a most horrible attack, which practically swept
them either out of existence or into slavery. Their lovely
groves were doomed to be cut down and destroyed. These
atrocities were perpetrated by the southern division of Arab
slave-raiders who operated near Lake Nyasa.

Standing on those sands, looking southwards over the
lake, with its waves dashing spray all over one, was like beinff

A VAST AND LONELY REGION

at a seaside in Europe. Lofty mountains, whose peaks were
lost in the lower clouds, encircled that immense inland sea,
keeping it within bounds like a mighty reservoir, at an altitude
of about 1500 feet above the sea-level. No less than 200 fathoms
of lead line were lost in a fruitless attempt to sound its depth.
Later soundings were found by Captain Rhoades to register
up to 300 fathoms.

Its vastness and loneliness were somewhat oppressive.
Only one small semi-missionary trading steamer ploughed its
surface, accompanied by several white-winged dhows carrying
slaves and ivory.

From one end to the other might was right, men being
the common currency of all the tribes living on its shores. At
intervals isolated missionaries were endeavouring to stem the
tide of oppression with the limited resources at their com-
mand, and in reality laying the foundations of empire.
Government there was none. It was a land as yet un-
touched by " Orders in Council." The white man had not
yet dared to say to the inhabitants, " Thou shalt not ! " but
the tax-collector, magistrate, and policemen were at that
moment preparing to sweep its thousands of unsuspecting
people into what is known as the British Empire.

We discovered a British flag flying near the lake, and
towards this our party marched. In a few moments I
was shaking hands with a big, brawny son of Scotia — they
are everywhere. With a warm welcome he invited me to
his house. He was the representative of the famous African
Lakes Corporation, who were to transport me to Queli-
mane. How far from my mind at the time was the
thought that my host was to be the hero of one of the
finest stands ever made against the Arabs, or that his name
would long be associated with Nyasaland as one of its
bravest pioneers !

As it would probably be some time before the steamer
could arrive, I moved about amongst the villages, and for

124

SECRET SOCIETIES

the first time came into contact with one of those secret
societies which are more numerous on the west coast than
in Nyasaland.

So far as I have been able to ascertain, some of the most
powerful medicine-men belong to a community, which is more
or less held together by a kind of Freemasonry. Secret in-
formation about certain poisonous roots and herbs is jealously
guarded and handed down from father to son. The members
of this fraternity are considered to be past-masters in all the
etiquette of marriages, births, and deaths. They are supposed
to be able to arrange about the weather, to influence the
crops, to afford safety to travellers, and to detect criminals
of all kinds. They generally possess wooden images, many
of which are beautifully carved, representing human beings ;
some are hideous in appearance, and are used on occasions
to strike terror into the hearts of those over whom they
desire to exert some influence. These images are sometimes
given names, e.g, the god of water, or of grain fields, or of
game. Others have special functions allotted to them, e.g.
to watch over women during childbirth, or to protect the
graves from desecrations by midnight cannibals, who are said
to dig up the corpse and eat it.

Groups of these images may at times be seen placed near
cross roads, for. the purpose of preventing evil approaching
the village; as, for instance, smallpox may be raging in an
adjacent district, and to stop its creeping along their roads
these images will be posted. The professional medicine-men
have great power over both chief and people. All dread
their anger ; none are safe from their magic. That they
annually remove thousands of people by poison has been
proved beyond doubt.

So far as the Wankonde were concerned, they appeared
to live in mortal fear of one particular professor, who
resided amongst the rocks, and was seldom seen in public.
The interesting study of totemism, and all the ideas asso-

POISON ORDEAL

ciated with it, has been pursued with far greater success in
West Africa than in Nyasaland, and none but those who
have made it a special study can be qualified to touch
the subject, so I leave it for others.

A case of murder happened whilst I was waiting, and
I had an opportunity of witnessing some of the operations
of the doctors. A young man was found dead in the
forest, with his skull smashed, and his body speared in
several places. No one was able to account for the deed,
as the deceased did not appear to have any special quarrel
with any one; neither were his family involved in any
dispute. The chief, on being appealed to, decided to
consult the great medicine tribal witch-finder. The general
opinion was that a Mfiti (cannibal) had killed the man
for food. Suspicion rested on an old man, who denied all
knowledge of the deed. The more emphatic he became in
his denials, the more eager they were to condemn him. At
length, out of sheer desperation, he demanded the poison
ordeal. This challenge his accusers were by custom com-
pelled to accept. The company's agent had no power to
interfere with the poison ordeal, although he endeavoured to
persuade the chief not to resort to so unjust a tribunal. His
appeal had no effect. Probably through fear of our presence,
the medicine-men refused to come to the village, but insisted
on trying the case in private, and the result only became
known to us some days afterwards.

They first took the man out to the forest, together
with the corpse, making him sit beside it for two days
and nights, guarded by male relatives of the deceased.
No food or water was allowed him. While in this weak
state, and his nerves naturally somewhat unstrung by such
a gruesome vigil, they made him drink the poison. He is
said to have fallen down in a stupor, but not vomiting the
poison proved him guilty, whereupon they immediately
speared him to death, leaving him unburied. We were

1'2S

A WITCH-FINDER

able to verify some of this story by finding the body
partly eaten by hyenas.

I became very anxious to find out all that was possible
about these witch-finders, and nearly paid a high price
for my curiosity. I determined, if possible, to interview
the dreaded creature who lived amongst the rocks, and
with the object of obtaining an introduction to him I
paid the chief a visit. Placing my present of calico and
brass wire near him, I asked him to let me pay the wizard
a secret call. At first he flatly refused, saying, "I do
not know where the gods live ! "

This was all nonsense. So, adding a bag of clean salt to
the pile of presents, I answered:

" I understand ! What you mean is that they move
about, to-day here, to-morrow elsewhere ; they do not sit still
as we do. When you began to smoke your pipe this morning,
you were unaware on which particular rock this spirit was
sitting, talking to the birds; but if you will give that salt
to your head-man, he may be able to give you the latest
information, for as you hold the responsible position of chief,
no spirit would dare to hide himself from your eyes.''

I had touched both his pocket (he hadn't any !) and his
pride, for he at once replied, " I know everything. No one
is above me ; I am the chief."

" Of course you do," I added, " or you could not have sent
for him to administer the poison which killed the man last
week." The old liar was nonplussed, and he quickly ended
the interview by saying, " Very well, as you have brought
something sweet for the gods (he meant his wives), I will see
if they will meet you and let you know."

I did not then expect treachery. Three days elapsed, and
receiving no intimation of the pleasure of the spirits, I called
on the chief for an explanation of the ethereal delay.

" Oh ! " replied he, with a grunt, " the moon is too young ;
there is not sufficient light for you to see the dangers in the

129

A WITCH-FINDER

path; snakes lie on the path at night, waiting to catch frogs
and mice.""

There was a covert warning in this information, but I was
too much of a novice to understand the service he was seeking
to render me, through what I interpreted as obstruction.

" Snakes on the path waiting for frogs."

Indeed there was a deadly thing at the path, which might
have brought my adventure to a fatal end.

Being convinced that he was playing the fool with me,
I pressed him, saying, " You are only a chief in name ; you
cannot compel this Mfiti to meet me ! "

He was annoyed, and sharply answered : " I am not a
chief of the spirits, and cannot command them, and am not
responsible for what they do ! " (I ought to have understood
this second warning.) " If you go, I cannot stop you ; the path
is too dangerous for my people, and I refuse to let them
accompany you. That path under the banana tree leads to
the rocks under the hill."

" All right," I replied, " 111 go with my own men ; but as
my eyes are not like the leopard's, which see at night, I shall
go now," and I at once entered the path.

We soon reached the rocks, and my men became scared
as we passed several bones scattered about. " Let us go back,
master ! " they said. " It's no use ; we shall not see the Mfiti."
Without replying, I followed a small track around a big rock,
and soon came in sight of a hut, with a man sitting outside
the door.

He was indeed hideous : around his loins were suspended
gourds ; hanging to his arms were lions' claws ; several porcupine
quills protruded from his hair ; and hanging from his shoulder
was a dried snake-skin. He had evidently been told of our
approach, and was not at all disturbed. Handing him some
beads, I got to business at once by letting him know that I
wanted to be told if I should have a safe passage down Nyasa.
Scanning me with keen eyes, he answered :

130

A Game Trap

Game trap photographed by Sir John Kirk. The Author narrowly escaped
tripping; over the string of one of these, when following the medicine man, as
it was hidden by vegetation. The animal irips against a string stretched
across the path and releases the weighted spear, tiie point of which is often
poisoned.

Naiive Porters

Young men who have chosen the life of porter.-. They will travel about twenty-five miles a
day, and carry a load weighing sixty pounds. Whilst at rest they like lo do something for
aniusement. The right-hand man i> making combs, three of which are near his feet and two in
his hair. Girls decorate them afterwards wiih beads.

A WITCH-FINDER

" My medicine is not for you ; your skin is too white."

" I am sorry the beads I gave you are also white ; they will
destroy your power. I will take them away."

He was not such an idiot as to give them to me.

"No!" he replied; "I will ask the spirits to speak," and,
producing a small whistle, he asked us to step back whilst
he made medicine.

We had not long to wait before he called me, and began
making a series of passes with a buffalo's tail, pointing to an
inverted pot in front of him. After addressing to this pot
a few sentences, he leaned forward, making a vigorous pass
over the ground, and from under the pot came a sharp whistle.
My men were thunder-struck, and moved away a few yards.

" The spirits say : The winds will blow " (they usually
do, I thought), "the sun shine" (another piece of gratuitous
information), "but you will sleep on the other shore'''* (in
English, You will have a safe passage ").

Upon my asking him if the spirits always came at his
bidding, he replied : " Yes ! they came to my father, and
to his father ; they will come to my son after I die ! "

I had noticed his vigorous action when bending forward,
and interpreted it as the means of applying muscular persua-
sion to the spirit ; and so, drawing my hunting-knife, I passed
it sharply through the soft earth between him and the pot,
when, as I expected, I dragged out a piece of bamboo which
was connected with a bladder under his feet. By bending for-
ward in his eagerness to call the spirit, he had pressed the
wind out of the bladder along the bamboo to the whistle under
the pot, and — the spirit spoke.

He looked as if he could have killed me on the spot.
" Don't be angry ! " I said ; " but remember the white man
hates lies, and never pays for them," at the same time handing
the calico and beads to my men. He got up, danced like a
maniac, to frighten us, I suppose. "Let the white man
follow me ; I will show him the true spirit of the Wankonde,"

133

ATTEMPTED ASSASSINATION

and oft' he marched, we following him to see the end of the
farce. Quicker ! " he exclaimed, darting around a large
rock almost hidden by dense undergrowth.

I was about to respond to his invitation, when I was
gripped from behind by my man, as he shouted, " Look
up there, master ; don't move ! " I followed with my eyes
to where he was pointing, and there, almost above me, hung
a horrible spear, weighted and suspended by rope over the
path, across which, hidden by grass, was a small string,
placed so that any one who touched it released the deadly
spear. It was a game trap ! One glance was enough. I
stepped off* the path, cut the string, and the instrument of
death thundered down, burying its point in the path. The
fiend had jumped over the string, knowing that I should trip
up against it, and that the released spear would close my
mouth and preserve his secret. The men, he knew, would not
dare to expose him, and would not be believed if they did.

In all my twenty-six years'* wanderings amongst Africans,
this was my only experience of a deliberate attempt at assassi-
nation. My rash adventure taught me a lesson, and as I look
at this photograph of a game trap, a cold feeling creeps over
me ; I feel I want to cut the string.

The old chief, on being told of our experiences, merely
remarked, " Your medicine killed his ! " Perhaps it did !

134

CHAPTER VIII

Navigating the Shire River — Blantyre — Ramakukane —
Game and Fish — Shupanga

IAKE NYASA is too well known nowadays to need
description ; it is very similar to all the other large
inland seas, and only differs from Tanganyika in that its
waters are sweet and palatable, whilst some of the others are
not at all agreeable and do not satisfy the thirst to the same
degree, leaving a dry feeling in the throat.

After a considerable rest at Karonga, I embarked for the
south on the small Lady Nyasa steam-vessel. At the first
village we anchored at, the people were living in dwellings
erected on piles, out in the shallow portion of the lake. On
asking the reason, we were told it was because of the Angoni,
also on account of the destructive white ants and wild beasts.
The Angoni are very numerous, and of Zulu extraction, having
migrated from the south many years ago. They are a branch
of the same people whom we noticed living with Mirambo in
Unyamwezi.

As the demand for slaves was always great, these half-wild
Angoni made periodical descents upon the lake population,
with such effect that the greater portion of the north-west
coast was depopulated. " Mlozi," a half-caste Arab, had his
stronghold in the North. Sultan Jumbe reigned supreme in
the west, his headquarters being at Kotakota. Makanjira
claimed the east, and Mponda the south coast.

It should not be difficult for the reader to understand how
completely the whole country was thus mapped out and taken
possession of by the great combination of slave-traders.

A few days' steaming brought us to the south end, where

135

NAVIGATING THE SHIRE RIVER

Mponda commanded the Shire River, down which we had to
go in order to reach Blantyre. The captain of the vessel
informed me that he always had trouble here with the
Arabs when passing Mponda's, sometimes being peremptorily
ordered to anchor the ship. They had cut down a large tree
and thrown it across the river to impede navigation. He said
there was just sufficient water to get over it provided we all
stood in the hinder part, and then, as the vessel struck the
tree, ran forward, thus transferring the weight to the opposite
end. It seemed a somewhat novel mode of navigation, but it
was soon apparent the people on shore meant us to stop and
pay a heavy toll for passing down the river. They stood on
the banks in great numbers, pointing at us their old flint-lock
guns, as we approached at full speed, only a few yards from
the bank where they were standing. The captain suggested
that I should hold my rifle in readiness, to let them see he
was not single-handed. I have always'; objected to any un-
necessary parade of firearms when travelling, but there were
times when it was wise to be ready for emergencies, and this
was one of them.

Pointing ahead to a ripple on the water, he explained that
it was caused by the current running over the sunken tree,
which the people hoped we should strike against. They knew
this would result in detention at their place, for which we
should have to pay dearly. All on board congregated abaft,
and as the ship mounted the tree the Captain shouted, " Run
as fast as you can ! " We did, and the little craft struggled
over, with a heavy list into deep water on the other side. This
was marine steeplechasing ; the wonder was it did not break
the vessel's back. In those days no one stood at trifles.
Things had to be done. Every difficulty was met with but
one thought, " It must be mastered at once !

The rage of the people at the success of the captain's
strategy may be well imagined. They fired guns at us, but
no one knew where the bullets went to ; certainly they never

136

BLANTYRE

struck anything near us. They ran along the bank to get
better shots at us, but as we pointed our rifles at them they
scampered ofr behind the houses, and by the time their fear of
sudden death had passed we ^vevc safely out of range, gaily steam-
ing about six knots down the Shire River towards Blantyre.

This settlement was reached after leaving the vessel, and
after a tramp up to the Shire Highlands from the mosquito-
infested river. These pests made life almost unbearable all
over the country. No sooner does the sun disappear than
they swarm out in millions. From the east coast, where
I landed five years previously, up to this point, I had never
been able to find a place free from their torment.

It was a pleasant taste of civilisation to reach the Scotch
mission station, named after the birthplace of Livingstone.
To see and speak to a white woman w^as indeed a pleasure.
Although they looked extremely pale, it was but fancy, for
they were all healthy; the constant looking at black women
made a white skin look unnaturally pallid. It seemed re-
markable to find such delicate flowers of civilisation growing
in the midst of general darkness and cruelty. Yet there
they lived, quietly teaching little black children to sew gar-
ments to hide their nakedness, or binding bandages around
the putrid sores on a girFs foot. As evening approached
a small bell called the little " Children of the mist," as
Kipling has named them, to their devotions. It was the
day of small things — just "something attempted, something-
done.'' Later on we shall see Blantyre as it is to-day in all
its glory.

I found but one trading company in the whole district,
and its operations were of such modest dimensions that only
two Europeans were required to manage its business at
headquarters. At their store a most daring robbery was
committed the first night after my arrival. Natives, attracted
by the large deposits of ivory and calico, broke into the
place and stole large quantities of goods; but so quietly did

137

AN AWKWARD QUARREL

they work that we were not disturbed, although our bed-
rooms were quite near. It seems almost incredible, when
I picture in my mind the country as it is to-day, that at
the time I passed there was but one planter in the Shire
Highlands.

The country was really in a state of war, notwithstand-
ing the peaceful mission picture I have drawn. It appeared
that a European, who formerly lived at Blantyre, had been
commissioned by a chief to take some ivory to the coast, and
to bring back the proceeds. On his return the chief was
not satisfied, and attempted to spear the white man, who in
self-defence then shot him and fled to a small islet in the
river, to which the people laid siege, finally succeeding in
shooting him in the leg as he was drinking from the river.
This did not satisfy the son of the slain chief, so he collected
his men to attack Blantyre, intending, as he said, to seize
the wife of the white man as compensation for his father's
death.

It was exceedingly annoying to be thus thrown into the
midst of a quarrel when so close to the end of a long sojourn
in the interior, especially as I expected to reach the coast
in a few days. The steamer I was to travel in was detained
by order of a British Consul, who invited us to accompany
him to interview an old Makololo chief, who stood between
the white people and his half-savage relative, who was trying
to seize the white squaw. Backed up by a man carrying the
Union Jack, the Consul proceeded to lay down the law to
the wrinkled warrior, the result being, we were informed,
that the war would be stopped and the young chief executed
as soon as captured; but the steamer must not go down
the river past the enemy's village, as it would certainly be
seized.

" Why cannot we go if we are willing to take the risk ? "

I asked. " I shall not catch the ocean boat, and, what is

worse, shall miss Christmas.'"*

138

A Village Belle

She is considered suitably dressed for any public function. Her apron is made of beads closely
sewn together, as also are her body-band and head-dress. The beads are often beautifully arranged
into fantastic patterns, and all such ornaments are freely lent to friends who are about to be
married.

RAMAKUKANE

The old chief looked me up and down, then at the
stalwart Consul; finally at the flag. He took a few heavy
pulls at a most elaborately carved tobacco-pipe, and mur-
mured, " It shall never be said Ramakukane permitted a
white man to go to his death."

" Ramakukane ! " Who was he ? Why should this man
have such a care for the safety of utter strangers ? The
reason was one of which we are all intensely proud. He
was none other than one of the Makololo boys, who, many
years previously, accompanied Livingstone, and remembered
his kindness. How remarkable ! especially as one often
hears it said that the African is incapable of gratitude.
A thousand miles nearer the equator, we heard that Arab
fiend call him Father David " !

It was impossible to wait an indefinite period, as these
native wars linger on for months, so we decided to run
the gauntlet. Barricades were placed so as to shelter the
helmsman from arrows or bullets. The boiler was covered
with wood, and we took plenty of ammunition. At the last
moment our crew of Makololo bolted ; they saw no fun, and
expected little pay for such a wild-goose-chase. Realising
how necessary it was never to allow coloured races to think
you are in their power, we collected our personal servants
and made them pitch firewood into the furnaces. The
captain, being, an engineer by profession, took charge of
the engine ; I, being a mariner, was entrusted with the
helm. It was rather a weird experience, yet sufficiently ex-
citing to repay one for the temporary annoyance of having
to stand and steer, instead of enjoying the passage sitting
in a deck-chair.

The flat-bottomed craft drew too much water, and was
constantly sticking on sandbanks, at which every one had
to jump overboard and push her off*. Natives hostile to
us could be seen dodging amongst the reeds and low scrub
on either bank, seeking a good opportunity to annoy us

141 H

AN EXCITING VOYAGE

with arrows. When one was up to the waist in water
in a river where crocodiles were numerous, it was quite
enough to have to exert your powers to get the old craft
off the sand, without living in expectation of unpleasant
attentions from either bank. One, more daring than the
rest, let fly at the funnel. I suppose he thought it a god,
stuck up as medicine against his bullets. He had the satis-
faction of making two eyes in it if he did, for the slug went
in on one side and came out at the other.

We had used the steam whistle to scare them, but a
shot happened to hit that, and stopped its evil voice. As
they became too dangerous, we let them have some large
s.s.g. buckshot ; a few rounds sent them headlong into the
bush. Our fuel being wood, showers of sparks were emitted
from the funnel as we pounded along after dusk, and the
burning sparks flying into the air must have made us look
quite Satanic to superstitious people. Helmets, coats, pants,
were all more or less burned by this volcanic eruption ; but
the sea was near, the journey was about to end; in fancy
we could almost hear the Indian Ocean beating on the
shore. Five years up-country ! Five days to the coast !
A^Hiat did it matter if the sparks of our miniature Vesuvius
burned the last respectable coat we possessed .^^ It would
have been easy to drop some of those black men — a cart-
ridge, a rifle, a steady aim, and life was gone ! But we
were not driven to that. Let them go mad as long as they
kept a respectable distance ; we did not seek to make widows.
But as if to spoil all our good resolutions, the captain's
boy was stupid enough to be thrown overboard by the
vessel bumping against the bank. It was a nuisance at this
particular moment. Some one pitched him a small hencoop,
another an oar, and my lad threw him my canvas chair. The
current swept him under the vessel, but he was gripped as
he came up the other side, little the worse for a bath,
probably somewhat sweeter. This impromptu performance

142

A HERD OF ELEPHANTS

allowed our escort on shore to overtake us, and a dose
of No. 5 shot was rattled against their skins as a parting
salute. They did not like it ; the pellets evidently stung
their naked bodies ; but it was sufficient for our purpose — it
kept them at bay.

I heard afterwards that the young chief was that day
captured and beheaded by Ramakukane ; thus died the young
Chikusi, successor to Chipitula, and the Shire River tragedy
came to its close without our assistance. On looking back at
this novel experience, it is easy to imagine how very differently
the race might have ended. Had a boiler-tube burst, or a
rudder-chain snapped, we should have been compelled to stop
and should have been exposed to repeated attacks.

Nearing the Morambala mountain, the river wound through
the marsh like a great snake. The flat swamps extended for
miles, and here, for the first time, I saw the lordly elephant at
home in all his might. About a quarter of a mile from the
river stood a herd of more than seventy-three ; so closely
were they standing that we could not count them all, but
we estimated the herd to contain about ninety or a hundred.
The sun showed up their great white tusks against the mass of
dark skin in the background; truly they presented a grand
picture of animal life in the bush.

On the left bank, quite close to our vessel, stood three
large bulls, each carrying tusks of about 70 lbs. weight.
They were not alarmed or disturbed in any way by our
presence, but stood calmly fanning themselves with their
great ears to keep the flies out of their eyes, occasionally
picking up the earth with their trunks and lashing it over
their backs. We tied up to the bank in order to get a better
view of them. We were none of us elephant-hunters, and as
the country was perfectly open, with no cover of any kind, it
looked decidedly more safe to remain on board. I confess I
was not conscious of any keen desire to try conclusions with
any of them, although the ivory was, of course, a temptation.

143

GAME AND FISH

I am sure all experienced hunters will agree that it was not
an undertaking for novices, and that we were wise in con-
tenting ourselves with shooting a solitary water-buck, which
served for food. It is not nice meat, but hungry men are
not too dainty.

The report of the firearm started the elephants, for
without hesitation they made straight for the river-bank,
down which they tumbled, half sliding, half rolling into the
water, swimming across, and climbing up the steep bank with
comparative ease. They continued their flight towards the
herd, which, on their approach, at once moved away with
their well-known long, swinging trot.

Not long afterwards they deserted the marsh altogether,
and, so far as I am aware, never returned. In fancy I picture
this immense marshland torn up by the steam-plough, and
tens of thousands of tons of rice growing on miles of rich
soil, where now is nothing but rank grasses and reeds.

Several large sawfish, young turtle, and sharks were
brought by fishermen for sale, which had been caught in
reed baskets staked on the river. There did not seem to be
many really good eating fish, probably because the people
consumed them themselves, and as the stream is always swift,
it was only in the backwaters that fishing could be carried
on successfully.

The slow passage up this river against the current was
most monotonous, the heat being oppressive, the rank marsh
grasses obnoxious, and mosquitoes — well, beyond description.
Yet even up to the present day it is tne great highway into
Nyasaland. All through the dry season it is too shallow for
steamers, and only boats can be used in the narrow channels.
Where it enters the Zambezi, we found ugly rocks stretching
right across its mouth. As the Zambezi channel wears away,
these rocks will be left well above the level of its stream,
forming a cataract across the Shire River.

We swept into the Zambezi one morning at daylight,

144

BUSH-BUCK

opening out stretches of swiftly flowing yellowish water, with
large islands dotted about, cutting the river into numerous
channels. A Portuguese gunboat passed, steaming up to the
Portuguese station at Tete, and as both national ensigns
dipped in mutual salute, it made one suddenly realise that
we were nearly back again amongst the rushing turmoil of
busy civilised nations. I wandered out to look for game at
a wooding station, and came unexpectedly upon two bush-
buck fighting. In their struggle they did not notice my
approach, so I had no difficulty in shooting one. As soon
as it dropped, the other began driving its sharp horns into
the fallen animal, most likely imagining it had floored its
antagonist. A second shot secured the pair. Both were
decent specimens, although the horns were short. The meat
was excellent, especially when fried in butter. I think most
of the small antelopes are sweeter eating than the heavy
animals, although the flesh of the eland, if in prime con-
dition, is very tasty, to say nothing of the quantity of fat
obtainable for the kitchen.

Whilst the men were cutting up the meat, I strolled
away, looking for other game. Some guinea-fowl flew up,
and I wounded one, sending a man to catch it ; and as he was
some time absent, I followed his tracks, calling him by name.
Receiving no reply, I quickened my steps, and at last heard
him shouting as if in pain. Running up to the spot, I found
him rolling on the ground, evidently in agony. At a glance
I saw the cause, for lying dead on the path was a puff'-adder.

" What^s the matter ? " I asked.

Pie frantically pointed to the snake, crying :

" I killed it ! it bit me ! I trod on it as I ran after the
guinea-fowl ! I shall die ! Medicine ! Master ! Medicine !
I shall die with the sun !

It was several miles from the vessel, and we were alone.
The man was kicking vigorously, half mad with pain, as well
as terror-stricken at the thought of death.

145

ROUGH SURGERY

" Keep still, my son ! " I ordered. " Where did it bite
you?"

On the foot. Look ! it's swelling ! " he exclaimed, throwing
himself over and over amongst the grass away from the dead
snake, as if afraid of another attack. There was no doubt
about the bite, as several small punctures were visible, in-
dicating where the teeth had entered the flesh, and already
there was a slight swelling. Having heard that the puff-adder's
bite often proved fatal, I knew there was no time to lose.
Medicines I had none, nor alcohol of any description. A
strong dose of brandy might have saved him, or at least given
him a chance, but there was none within reach, so I tore open
my helmet and extracted some of the pith lining, crushing it
into a powder.

" Keep still, boy ! " I said. " I must cut your foot if you
want it cured ; don't wriggle about, but lie still, and I will
help you.''

" Quick, master, quick ! " he groaned ; and again the
maiden's cry, "Amai ! Amai ! " came from him as a last
appeal.

I immediately responded. Slipping off my belt, I rolled
two cartridges up in some grass and placed them on the inside
of his thigh ; I knew the large arteries ran somewhere in that
direction. Over these I fastened the belt to check bleeding.

" You're cutting my leg off," he shouted.

" No, I'm not ; don't be a fowl ; ^ it's to stop the poison
walking up your leg."

Striking a match, I allowed the flame to play along the
edge of my hunting-knife, as a rough-and-ready disinfectant,
and quickly made two deep incisions, removing a piece of
wedge-shaped flesh from the foot, taking away, I hoped, the
poison. Spreading the powdered pith into the open wound,
I set it alight before the blood soaked it, thus cauterising the

^ " Fowl "~-a common expression amongst Africans, a fowl being con-
sidered without courage.

146

SHUPANGA

flesh. He never even uttered a moan. I did not Kke it — it
seemed to indicate that the nerves were beyond feeling. Am
I too late ? " I thought. I was ! He began to vomit, his voice
became husky, and gradually he ceased to struggle. I was
not a surgeon, and had done what an amateur might ; I dared
not go for the leg. I poured water out of my bottle on to his
lips and forehead, but he did not show any sign of recognition.
In an hour he was dead.

Only one other case came under my notice at Tanganyika.
Three Europeans were then present, and in that instance
brandy kept the man going for three hours, but he eventually
succumbed. It seems to prove that some puiF-adders are
deadly when they get the poison rapidly into the blood. His
comrades, when they saw the snake, lifted their eyebrows, one
remarking, " Shetani ! (" The Devil !

The mamba snake spits into the eyes, causing intense pain,
but sulphate of zinc lotion always reduces the inflammation in
a few hours, without loss of sight.

It would have been much more pleasant to escape from the
Dark Continent without such a painful experience, but the
bitter had to be taken with the sweet. One felt glad to be
returning to a safer and more peaceful land.

By the kindness of the captain, I was taken to Shupanga,
which has since become almost a shrine in the estimation of
workers for the good of Africa. It was to me the most
sacred spot in those regions, and every sense quickened as I
approached it. The days of youth flashed across my memory,
and Livingstone's devoted wife was visible to my mind's
eye again as the woman of Africa. I was about to visit her
grave.

Entering Shupanga house, one was filled by those deep
feelings which only take possession of us at times few and far
between. There was the verandah in all its ruggedness, where
the Doctor sat and perused his diary, and rested from weary
watching at her loved bedside, in the days when Africa was

147

SHUPANGA

dark and the great problems unsolved. Instinctively one ex-
amined every foot of space ; the walls seemed as if they ought
to bear a parting message, an initial or motto ; cobwebs hung,
loaded with dust, and fancy pictured her eyes riveted on some
such, years ago, as she felt life ebbing away and listened to
the Doctor's footstep on the verandah. The view from a low
window showed the mighty Zambezi, rushing on in ceaseless
flow towards the ocean, and the lofty palms that had waved
adieu to both river and life as the eyes closed in their long
sleep here at my feet. 'Twas a moment never to be forgotten !

The hallowed association of that scene had held me spell-
bound as a boy, in books, and now riveted me to the spot in
vision.

" She lives ! " I cried — " lives in my heart ! in all our
memories ! in the history of Africa, and in the roll of the
world's heroines."

Wending my way through tall grass towards the place
where they laid her, I pictured in my mind the grief-stricken
pioneer, left alone to toil on through the mazes of Africa.
His step must have been weighed down with such a load of
grief, and I looked mechanically for a footprint on the path.
No, it was not there ! but on the life of many a follower it is
distinct enough.

The gigantic baobab tree standing alone, bearing many
initials of Europeans, reared its massive trunk immediately
before me, and under its shadow stood the pure white cross
erected to her memory. Out of the stillness seemed to come
a far-away voice saying, "I am the Resurrection and the
Life," and raising my helmet, I was face to face with these
words : —

Sacred to the memory of
Mary Moffat,
beloved wife of Dr. Livingstone,
died at Shupanga house,
aged 41 years."
148

SHUPANGA

Far away, amidst the noble, great, and brave, buried with
all the pomp of a nation's grief, lies her immortal spouse,
with the teeming multitudes of London to keep guard near
his tomb; but 'twas from this spot, where the rank grasses
grow and the mosquitoes breed in thousands, that the noblest
pioneer the world has produced turned away, uttering that
never-to-be-forgotten cry — " O God ! heal Africa's open sore !

Amongst my many African trophies, none are more
treasured than a few dead leaves and flowers gathered from
tiie grave of Mary Moffat.

149

CHAPTER IX

A Visit to England — A Sailor's Blow — Charles Stokes —
Germans and Arabs — Encounter with Masai — White Man's
Medicine — Warnings.

IT was now necessary to leave the Zambezi, as none of its
numerous outlets to the sea were used by ocean steamers,
so we quitted it near Vicenti, this being the nearest
point to the Kwakwa River, which flows past Quelimane. A
narrow strip of land separates the two rivers. The transport
company's agent calmly sent us across this isthmus with the
assurance that canoes would be waiting at the same time as
ourselves.

In the evening an indigo planter strolled over to our camp
to see who the strangers were, and on being told we were wait-
ing for canoes promised by the agent, he smiled, saying :

" I like his coolness ! He has no canoes up-river, and
besides, it is quite forty-six miles from this place to where the
river is navigable at this season of the year ! " This was not
at all comforting, but our kind visitor soon put us at ease
by lending us machilla-men, and some pocket-money where-
with to purchase food, and at sunset he packed us off' on
that moonlight ride in a hammock.

It was an extremely kind action, saving us no end of
trouble. Starting at 6 p.m., the men trotted along so easily that
after a time I slept, waking about 6 a.m. at our destination.
The twelve bearers had carried me forty-six miles, at the rate
of nearly four miles an hour, without a halt. The first few
hours I lay awake, enjoying the easy motion of the trained
carriers. The moon was full, and it is not at all surprising
that I was soon hushed to sleep by the rhythmic tramp of

150

A VISIT TO ENGLAND

their feet, accompanied by one of those attractive Zambezi
river songs, which should be collected some day and published
for our amusement. One of them especially seemed to carry
the thoughts away into dreamland. The soft voices appeared
to be at one time pleading with the moon, imploring it not
to hide its face under the clouds. Again ! they seemed to
be in familiar converse with the river-bed, which was dry.
The rustle of the overhanging palm fronds instantly provided
them with fresh subject-matter for stanzas.

It would have been an ideal ride for a poet ! Moonlight —
stillness — shadows — harmony — Africa! For the time I quite
forgot the isolation and horrors of the past five years. Had
I but understood the words of those songs, I think the dream
would have been complete.

Some few days afterwards I hummed the refrain over to
a European at Quelimane, who was acquainted with the
tongue. The following was his translation : —

We travel by night to court the moon.

Quickly, quickly trot.

The river has gone to find the sea —

Waters of salt, waters of salt.

The mud-fish sleeps, he has no wings ;

The birds are peeping to see us pass,

As the White man sleeps."

This gives but a very inadequate impression of the song as
rendered by twelve voices, harmoniously varied.

At the end of the dreamy ride, canoes were hired, with
grass coverings to protect me from the sun. Under these I
could scarcely crawl among the boxes, and thus the final
passage to Quelimane was just as uncomfortable as the
former had been pleasant. All night mosquitoes swarmed up
to a final charge at their escaping victim, who was trying to
breathe out of a corner of a blanket, whilst the perspiration
rolled off him and he was almost suffocated. The river, which

151

A SAILOR'S BLOW

was forced up into this narrow channel by the ocean tide, rose
and fell very rapidly, and with the strong ebb we were carried
into our final port in safety. A British trading consul made
me very comfortable. His spotless white attire and neatly
furnished residence compelled me to acknowledge that I had
slipped back several degrees from the civilised standard of
respectability, so, without delay, my travel-stained garments
were exchanged for decent ones.

After a speedy trip home to England, marriage, and a
tour through the kingdom lecturing on the slave-trade, I found
myself braced up for another sojourn in Africa, this time
taking my wife and child, also two coloured people from
Jamaica, and a medical man.

Amongst the crowd of men whom we picked up at
Zanzibar as porters was an old mission boy who had been
expelled for bad conduct. He was partially intoxicated,
and I noticed he was making attempts to reach our end
of the dhow. At length he succeeded in gaining his feet,
singing in disjointed sentences: —

" Here we suffer grief and pain ! "

All sense of respect for Europeans was gone from him. I
was to command this fellow and his comrades, and it was
therefore necessary to impress on them all that I would
not tolerate insolence of any description.

He gradually made his way to where my wife was
sitting with her baby, and put his face quite close to her,
blurting out with his beer-reeking voice the second line : —
Here we meet to part again."

He never spoke or sang a truer sentence, for I caused him
to retreat suddenly amongst his comrades, where he lay in
a semi-dazed condition for the remainder of the voyage.

" Is that the way you treat black men ? I was asked
by my wife. "Yes,'" I replied, "it is, when they dare

152

CHARLES STOKES

insult a woman of my colour — or any other colour, for that
matter.""

" It was surely not a gentleman's blow, was it ? " she added.

"Perhaps not,"' I answered, ''but it was a sailor's, and
I regret having had to teach him manners before you ;
but we have to travel hundreds of miles with these men,
and the remembrance of that blow will deter every other
scoundrel who may desire to overstep the bounds of pro-
priety.*" I think it did, for we had no trouble of any
description afterwards.

The night experience of landing was unpleasant enough
for men, but to a woman and child it must have been most
disagreeable. I was met by Charles Stokes, who, it will be
remembered, was so cruelly hung by a Congo official up-
country, although he appealed to be tried at the coast. I
will not enter into the pros and cons of that painful episode,
and will only state that I had known him as a good fellow
for several years. He came down to the beach and compelled
us to accept his hospitality, which was always unstinted. He
had some thousands of Wasakumu and Wanyamwezi with
him, waiting to form the annual caravan to Uganda. With
much excitement he unfolded his plans for extending his trade
westwards, and I fear that in so doing he excited the jealousy
of other people ; this may have contributed to his death.

" Keep a sharp look-out for the Masai ! '' he said. '' They
are moving about looking for water, and may attack you if you
are not careful. Only last week I lost thirteen donkeys and
eleven cattle by one of their parties." This was not very
pleasant news, but I thought it extremely improbable that
we should meet them, as their country lay to the north of
our track.

Stokes himself was an interesting study. Formerly a lay
member of the Church of England Mission, afterwards
transport contractor, at the time of our meeting he was
living in a small grass house, surrounded by hundreds of

153

GERMANS AND ARABS

Wasakumu. Bags of rupees lay scattered about under his
bed, and his .happy disposition won for him hosts of both
white and black friends. His untimely end was keenly felt
by all his fellow-pioneers.

The general political atmosphere at the coast had changed
since my previous visit with the carts, and no wonder. Europe
had begun to speak. Diplomats had sat down around their
tables, studying parallels of latitude, river-courses, and
mountain ranges. Every river was carefully noted and its
possibilities :w^eighed, each country asking itself, "Does this
river tap the great lakes ? and " What prospect is there
of opening up direct communication from the coast to the
healthy plateau ? " Longitudinal sections of the country were
mapped out. Claims to fertile mountain ranges were disputed,
modified, or settled by exchange for some equivalent elsewhere.

Thus every phase of the geographical problems was
studied and solved ; but the people — the owners of the soil —
they scarcely counted. It was hoped they w^ould not object
too strongly ; but if they did — Well ! it would be a nuis-
ance, certainly not an obstacle to cause a single plan to be
frustrated. In most cases it was not the action of a bailiff,
but of a usurper ; not even " By your leave " prefaced the
command to stand aside and deliver up possession.

Thus civilisation marched into Darkest Africa. The
reader, having been made acquainted in the foregoing chapters
wdth the state of the interior, will probably decide that Europe
was justified in so doing. It is no part of my duty to pass an
opinion ; I confine myself to the relation of facts.

All was in a state of uneasiness at the coast. The Arabs
who had previously assisted us were polite, but now stood
more on their dignity and questioned us about our intentions.
Thus :—

" Are you Wa-deutschi ? " (Dutch or German).
" No ! I replied. " I am not."
Are they strong people with plenty of soldiers ? "

154

GERMANS AND ARABS

" Yes ! very strong ; they have more soldiers than you
have men.'"*

" Will they take our country ? "

This question I evaded, using one of their own weapons.
" God is great, and you say that the last prophet,
Mohammed, is dead ! "

" You speak words of truth,"" said they.

At the same time I knew they felt it was about time
to sharpen the sword. An old Arab, who had always been
friendly, drew me on one side and, when quite out of earshot,
said :

" Your tongue to-day is like those men whom, five rains
ago, you harnessed to those carts in this town ! "

To this I replied : I don't understand, unless you mean
I am like ' a donkey,' as they described themselves ! "

" No ! no ! I never insult a friend ! What I mean is :
Your tongue is in fetters !

I saw that he had detected evasion in my previous answer
about the Germans taking the country, so I replied :

" You know that even the frogs remain silent as the lion
passes the pool at night ! "

"I do ! he quickly answered. " And it is equally true
that if you hear the jackal it is nearly certain the lions are
not all on the other side of the sea. Let me also tell you that
in our great books we are told that a race of white men is to
rule this country, so it must be God's will.""

On taking a final leave of him, I said :

"Buriani'' ("Forget and forgive''). "When the lions
come, remember what the artful frogs do. You will find it
wise to imitate them."

As a matter of fact he did nothing of the sort, and
suffered in consequence. His words will serve to show how all
Europeans were classed by these Arabs as Government agents,
and were consequently in danger of being attacked when the
storm burst. After several such bouts of word-fencino^ we

ENCOUNTER WITH MASAI

managed to get clear away, but only just in time, for the
Germans made war on all the coast, coming in real earnest to
this very town, and forcing the old Arab to fly for his life
to the hills, where he carried on a long guerilla war against
them, eventually accepting their terms of surrender as the
inevitable.

After a few days' travel we had to lay our first-born under
a shady tree. Just a little mound ! and " Harold Living-
stone Swann " cut above it on his living monument ; nothing
more than this marks the spot where the little treasure sleeps
in the sand.

We soon had good reason to remember the warning of
Stokes about the Masai, for suddenly one afternoon my
head-man came back to me, in company with three warriors
of the tribe in full war costume, which consisted of a pair
of sandals (worn when travelling through thorny country),
some chain ornaments, suspended from their ears, and a
girdle of leather, to which was fastened a knife and tobacco-
box. They were quite nude. In their hands they carried
a long, broad-bladed spear, a cowhide shield, and a small
knobkerrie.

Having been travelling in the rear, I was naturally
anxious about the vanguard, and the following conversation
took place: —

" What's the matter ? " I asked, as they approached.
" Where is the mistress and the others ? "
" She is crying, but all are safe."
" What do these people want ? "

" Lots of things, sir ; but first, they must go with you to
the other people."

I could not speak a word of their language, and felt
handicapped.

" Are there many of them ? "

" Yes ! about four hundred."

" What are they up to ? "

158

ENCOUNTER WITH MASAI

"Stting behind their shields in a circle around our
people."

Nice circus, I thought, but without the donkeys or
clowns. Turning to my boy, I took my rifle and slipped in
some cartridges. It was a Winchester repeater, and very
useful in a scramble with a crowd. " It makes a lot of
business,"' as the cowboys say. I knew it was madness to fight,
but perhaps just as well to let these fellows know we should
not take it " lying down."

Opening my umbrella I attempted to put on as careless
a manner as possible (I was really anxious about my wife),
when one of the Masai touched it, saying something to my
head-man.

"He wants it, sir," came a very ready interpretation to
my look of inquiry.

" Oh ! does he ? Then tell him I have only this one, and,
as he would never think of parting with his only stabbing
spear, so I cannot part with my protection from the sun."

A grunt was his only reply.

A second touch came on my coat.

" He wants that also," my poor, scared head-man uttered.

" Tell him, only medicine-men are permitted in his
country to walk with white skins." (They cover themselves
with white pigment; no warrior would dare be accused by
the girls of being so scared of his foes as to turn white.)

No ! tell him I am not his enemy, to give him my coat ;
it's too white. The sun darkens the skin. See ! my arms
are brown ; but my cheek is pale because I wear this coat.
It does not matter to white men ; they like to be white, and,
when their faces are white, their medicine is most powerful."

That put an end to his ambition for my coat. I guessed
it would. On reaching my companions, I found all more or
less anxious ; and they had good reason, for there was an
ominous look about that circle of shields and the ugly broad
blades.

159 I

ENCOUNTER WITH MASAI

" Any one hurt, doctor ? " I asked.

"No! But we were ordered to stop and wait for you;
there was no choice ; they surrounded us."

The three leaders, who had followed me, sat down behind
their shields like all the others. They looked picturesque, and
a camera would have been profitably employed, with the
certainty of getting a unique picture.

I at once objected to their sitting behind their shields,
and said : " Why do you disgrace your chief by speaking
to a perfect stranger from behind your shields, and with
spears in your hands ? Why do you hide yourselves ; have
the maidens told you your faces are full of scars inflicted
by your conquerors ? If you are not marked, put them
down, and tell your men to go over under those trees ;
my people will march to the other trees, and rest while
we talk."

I wanted elbow-room, as well as to keep scoring small
points off them. It neutralises the enemy''s play. No objec-
tion was taken, the shields were lowered at once, and a
passage made for our people to move outside.

" Now, then," I commenced ; " ask what they mean
by stopping white men. Are they in want of our new
poisons, which they do not know how to use, or are they
wishing to see our rifles send bullets through the shields
We will show them if they will put one up as a target.
Or perhaps they are tired of their chief, and want a white
chief?"

" No ! " came their reply. " W e have poisons, and our
chiefs are many. We do not wish to have holes made in our
shields ; it lets the rain through. We are in search of water
for our cattle, and the grass at the Wami River is sweet.
We crossed your path, and wished to see white men."

All this was quite natural, although done in rather a
high-handed manner.

" Very well," I said ; you have seen us, and we must

160

ENCOUNTER WITH MASAI

get on to camp ; but as you dare not tell your chief you
stopped white people, take this piece of calico as a token
of my friendship. It will prevent you from being disgraced
before your women."

He was pleased. I do not think that side of the question
had entered his brain. In less than five minutes the calico
was being torn into strips and fastened under the blades
of their spears, somewhat after the manner of the decorated
lances of cavalry. They had no other use for Manchester
calico !

This was my opportunity to checkmate them, so, cutting
off a small branch from the nearest bush, I held it out
to the leader, saying : " Break it ! "

When doinop a similar action with the wish-bone at

o

Christmas, I had scarcely supposed it was a rehearsal for
such a play as this. If he had broken the twig, it meant
peace ; but he declined ! The game was not yet won.

" Why does he not do as I ask ? Is it because he is not
the real leader of the party, and fears the criticism of those
boys of his ? "

This query stung him, as I intended it should, for he
rather smartly replied :

" I go where I choose. I break the spear of an enemy
as well as the twig of a friend ; but I want a nice piece
of red calico for my spear."

It had to be Peace at any price.

Tearing off a few yards of red twill, I half-tied it around
his spear, and with the other hand again presented the twig
before he had time to forget his childish delight. " Break," I
said. His smaU eyes looked straight into mine as he snapped
the twig; I imagined they said, " You have won the game ! "

It was enough. I knew they would never break the con-
tract. Africans can strike a hard bargain when they get into
stubborn moods ; but tribal contracts, such as this, are seldom
broken.

161

WANYAMWEZI AND MASAI

" Go on,"" I ordered. " It's all safe. Move away slowly ; do
not hurry, whilst 111 chat with these fellows to divert their
attention.'"*

Touching one of their great spears, which were very fine
specimens of iron-work, I asked the owner to give it me in
exchange for calico. He declined.

" Will you sell your shield ? "

" No ! I should cease to be a warrior if I did."

The man who had conducted the palaver then handed me
his ebony knobkerrie, saying, "Take this."' I was naturally
surprised, for it was equivalent to our handing over a favourite
walking-stick, and showed he bore no ill-will. By this time
our people had gone, so, placing my half of the twig in my
helmet, I said : " Good-bye ! You see I carry the Masai mark
of friendship near my eyes, in order that I may not forget my
promise to you." With a swinging trot they disappeared into
the bush, as fine a lot of half- wild men as one could wish to
see anywhere. The next morning we met a large party of
Wanyamwezi, driving cattle to the coast. Cattle I knew would
be a great temptation to the Masai, so I warned them of their
presence. " We don't care for any one ; we are well armed,""
they replied. Armed or not, as they slept that night the
Masai fell on them, killing many and capturing all their
cattle and women. We were thankful to have escaped with
the loss of a few yards of calico.

The married men appeared to settle down in the hills as
agi'iculturists, as soon as they passed from the purely fighting
ranks. These attempted to give us trouble by refusing water.
Payment was declined, and no reason given for their conduct.
Arguments and threats proved equally abortive. Water we
should not have. This could scarcely be tolerated, for it was
then about 4 p.m. Every one was tired, thirsty, and perhaps
impatient, so I buckled on my revolver, telling the boy to
follow me with a jar for water, also to bring a spear and
a white bottle. Every one else was to wait in camp until they

WHITE MAN'S MEDICINE

heard the report of firearms, when all were to rush out with
water-pots.

"What do you want the bottle for, sir?'' asked the

lad.

" Medicine, my son. The white man's medicine."

At the pool sat eleven armed natives on guard, who, on
seeing me approach, stood up as if to dispute the path.
Taking the spear, I drove it into the ground about five yards
from the pool, and placed the inverted white bottle on the
top of it. The men seemed amused, as I guessed they would,
and asked what I was doing.

I replied : " In your country, if you have a dispute over
a garden, one of you places medicine in it until the dispute
is settled, and until that is done no one can, or will, reap
any of the produce. We cannot agree about this water. It
is not war, but simply a dispute, so I have placed our white
medicine here to prevent any of my people breaking your
custom. Not one of them will dare to permit his shadow to
pass that white bottle."

I invariably found the most efiective weapons to use were
their own, and this case proved no exception to the rule.

" You must not do that ! '' they exclaimed. " Where shall
•we drink ? There are no other pools near."

" It is too late ; Fve done it. The medicine is on guard ; no
one dare remove it but the person who placed it there."

This was a little conversation they scarcely expected ; they
saw their game of bluff was likely to make them as thirsty as
ourselves, and it was not long before a deputation was sent
from the chief, giving his permission for the free use of the
water.

It was very amusing, as well as an instructive study of a
people with whom one had to live. How many millions
have been wasted on expensive military expeditions which,
perhaps, might have been saved had we really understood
the weak points of primitive people.?

163

WHITE MAN'S MEDICINE

It was now my turn to keep up the farce, and to administer
a little harmless punishment for their impudence.

" Go and tell the chief I accept his decision ; but also tell
him the white man's white medicine bottle must be covered
with the blood of a goat directly it is broken, and the flesh
must be eaten by us."

The goat was immediately forthcoming, and by this time
their women were as impatient to get water as ourselves,
for otherwise the evening meal could not be prepared, and
the chief himself would go to bed hungry.

" The medicine must be broken by my revolver," I said ;
" but, if it refuses to break, then we must sleep with dry
tongues; there is no appeal. We must remember in future
not to quarrel hastily over things, as it makes it unpleasant
for every one. Step back ! Let us hear the little gun speak."

Taking care to remain close to the bottle for fear of missing
it, I blew it to pieces. This was the signal to my men, who
came rushing up with their pots, howling with delight.

" Stop ! " I cried. " The goat must die. The glass
must be made red with its blood before you drink." This
done, I shouted out: "The medicine is dead, the road is
open, and pulling up the spear, I left them to quench their
thirst.

I think an innocent farce of this nature is not out of
place when life is at stake. A false move might have re-
sulted in serious consequences. At any rate we not only
obtained the water without fighting, but made the owners
pay us a goat for permission to drink at their own pool.

Rumours now reached us of the Germans having landed

on the coast, and driven the Arabs out of their strongholds.

As some were certain to retreat up-country, it was not

gratifying to know that we had to pass their great centres,

and that Lake Tanganyika was in their hands, with our

comrades, stations, and vessels. We met our old companion.

Brooks, on his way home after seven years'* hard work in

164

WARNINGS

the Interior. I warned him of the danger in front, point-
ing out that the Arabs would not discriminate between
different nationalities, as we were all white men.
To this he smilingly replied :

" I'm not afraid of all the Arabs in the country. They
know me now; and as for old Muinyi Heri at the coast,
why, he has always been our friend.""

" Yes ! " I answered, " he has ; but a rat will turn when
attacked, and these men have just suffered defeat at the
hands of the Germans."

" Oh ! rubbish," he exclaimed. " I have never bothered
about possible dangers since entering the country, and shall
not begin now. Fm off^ home. Kwaheri, tu-ta-onana tena ! "
(" Good-bye, we shall meet again."") With this pleasant fare-
well he left us, and gaily tramped coastwards full of happy
anticipation of complete rest after his long service as a layman
of the London Missionary Society. He passed safely through
Ugogo, receiving near Mamboia urgent warnings from the
Arabs not to proceed.

" Don't come," they wrote. " The country is at war ; our
hearts are sad; our homes gone. We cannot, in our grief,
see your nationality, but only your skin; when the heart is
full, the eyes are dim, and all alike are foes."

This letter was sent to me up-country. It will be
noticed how these cruel Arabs felt the misery of wrecked
homes. Had they ever listened to the pleading of thousands
of mothers and children not to be separated from dad ?
Never ! The cry for vengeance was now being answered.

To the repeated warnings Brooks was deaf. " Don't be
afraid ! We shall soon see the salt water," he is reported to
have said to his frightened men. He reached camp only a
few miles from the coast, and everything appeared to justify
his optimistic view of the situation, when that young Arab,
who, as I noticed when I saw him years before at Saadani, was
not very friendly, marched into his camp with the usual

165

WARNINGS

salutation, "Jambo, bwaria?""' (Literally, "Have you any
affairs ? " or perhaps better, as we should put it, " How are
things going with you ? ")

After the usual courteous inquiries. Brooks invited him
into his tent, and stepping in first (presumably to place a
chair for his visitor), gave his enemy his opportunity — which
the brute quickly seized ; for, placing his gun to Brooks' back,
he shot him dead. It was rash of him to run into danger,
but an exceedingly sad end to a young life. " Tu-ta-onana
tena " (" W e shall meet again were his last words to me. So
may it be, though not in Africa.

166

CHAPTER X

Shooting Giraffes — A Cool Reception — A Visit to Rumaliza —
Tip-PU-TiB — Anger of Tip-pu-Tib — Hostilities Commenced
— Congo State Officials — Emin Pasha.

SOON after we had left camp one morning, a man came
rushing back, shouting :

" Twiga, bwana, twiga ! " (" Giraffe, master, giraffe.")
I had long wished to see the giraffe in its wild state, as it is
not at all common in these parts ; but farther north they may
often be met with, especially in Ugogo.

The sun had not yet risen, and the light was very bad for
accurate shooting, but such a chance was not to be thrown
away ; so, hurrying forward after the men, we soon came upon
a herd standing and lapping off young tender growths of the
trees.

Eight had young ones beside them. Two were half-grown ;
the other two were about half-grown ; an old male stood apart
from the rest, apparently watching.

Directly they saw us, the females, with their young ones,
moved away with an awkward gallop, the youngsters kicking
up their heels either in frolic or fear.

Fortunately the old male remained to get a better view of
us, and this gave me a chance at his left shoulder. My rifle
(a No. 2 musket) brought him down with a crash, his long
neck falling like a tree felled by an axe.

It was my first and last giraffe !

I should not have shot another even had an opportunity
presented itself. In this instance the meat was needed, and,
although we had to march that day over twenty miles, it was
quite worth delaying an hour for the fresh food. He proved

167

A COOL RECEPTION

to be a very old male. All his lower teeth had gone ; his hoofs
were badly cracked and worn down.

It was a strange spectacle to see those two hundred beings
cutting up the great carcase like half-mad men. In their
frantic endeavours to obtain the intestines (which are considered
the tit-bits) they smothered one another with blood. An hour
sufficed to cut up the whole carcase, to lash it in pieces on to
their loads, and we were off again on the tramp. It might
easily be imagined that we should daily see large numbers
of game, but such was not the case. Probably the first men
scared them away, and the constant traffic would certainly tend
to drive most game far from the track.

As we approached Ujiji I noticed that our Mohammedan
servants became somewhat mysterious in their general conduct,
the word " war " frequently occurring in their conversations.
Two messengers, sent forward to inform the Arabs of our
approach, did not return. This was very unusual, and I began
to suspect trouble on account of the war in our rear.

Not wishing to disturb the minds of my companions, I did
not mention my suspicions, and we entered Ujiji in silence.
Not a soul came out to welcome us. What a contrast to the
mad rush of our men with the carts five years previously !
Then all was excitement, joy, welcome. The usual presents,
made to all who arrive from the coast, were this time not in
evidence. Not a single person took the slightest notice of us.
We might have just strolled in from an afternoon'^s walk, instead
of at the end of a journey of 800 miles.

The doctor noticed the absence of Arabs, and remarked :

" This is surely a cold reception, is it not ? "

" Yes, Doc, it is ! But don't tell my wife, or the others ;
it will only make them nervous.''

On reaching the centre of the town, a solitary head-man of
the great Rumaliza met me, simply saying :

" Follow, and I will show you where to sleep ! "

We were escorted into a courtyard enclosed by high walls,

168

A COOL RECEPTION

built of sun-dried bricks, and told to make ourselves comfortable,
but on no account to walk about the town.

" Where are all the great men of the town ? " I asked.

" At prayers, master !

The noonday devotions were long since passed, so I knew
he was telling a falsehood ; but other matters occupied our
attention, and we made ourselves snug for the night. About
ten o'clock that evening a messenger called, requesting me
to pay a visit to Rumaliza, who had just arrived from the
west in our steamer. He brought also a letter from a comrade,
urging us to come on board early the next day The vessel
was about six miles away, as no harbour existed at Ujiji.

All this was uncanny. I felt out of touch with the position ;
but the great Arab soon drew aside the veil. As we left the
compound, the messenger said :

"Tell your people to keep the doors closed until you
return, as hyenas prowl about at night and bite men."

I noticed the covert warning, and became still more uneasy.
The messenger had instructions that no one was to accompany
us ; we were to come alone, as his master desired to speak only
to me.

" Small birds tell the buffalo the hunter is near," he
whispered, as I stepped outside the door into the dark street.
I thought : " He may be the bird, and, possibly, I may be the
buffalo ; but who are the hunters ? *"

There was nothing to be gained by refusing, as we were
entirely in their power ; therefore I walked on, trusting to this
powerful man's old friendship and loyalty.

Entering a large courtyard, I was conducted along corridors
dimly lighted by small palm-oil lamps. Not a soul was about but
ourselves. Passing through a beautifully carved entrance, the
door of which opened as we approached, although no one was
visible to me, I knew we had entered the outer division of his
harem, as the messenger closed the door, saying :

" I must return ! Wait where you are until some one

169

A VISIT TO RUMALIZA

comes. When I have closed the door, give the usual salutation.
I must not see the women, good-bye ! "

A small lamp was suspended from the low roof, and a
second was half-hidden in a recess at the extreme end of
the room. There was no furniture, nothing but a beautifully
worked, coloured praying mat hung on the wall. I recognised
at once that I was standing in the private room where the
master performed his devotions.

" Hodi ! Hodi ! " I exclaimed. This is equivalent to our
ringing the door-bell, and is for the purpose of warning the
inmates of your entrance. Unless an answer is returned it is
extremely bad manners to advance.

A soft female voice replied :

" Hodini ! hodini ! Karibu, bwana ! " (" Come in, sir ; you
are welcome.")

With a light step a beautiful young girl, about fifteen years
of age, approached, clad in rich clothes thrown gracefully over
her shoulders. The draught carried toward me a delicious
perfume, of which these Eastern women are fond.

Twende, bwana ! (" let us go together ") she said, moving
towards the interior of the house.

I followed through three small rooms into a well-furnished
apartment. Here the girl beckoned me to be seated on the sofa,
saying : " Master will be with you at once ; he is having his
bath."

I had come quicker than he anticipated. I was not kept
waiting many minutes, for Rumaliza came in quickly, leaving
his sandals outside, and with a smile held out his hand, giving
me the usual Arab welcome.

A lovely woman brought a bowl of water for me to wash
my hands, another sprinkled scent over my handkerchief, a third
placed hot coffee and cakes at our feet, which we partook of in
Eastern fashion.

Telling the girls to leave us, and not to return until
he called, Rumaliza commenced asking questions about our

170

A WARNING FROM TIP-PU-TIB

journey, e.g. — who was with me; what we had brought;
what news about the war ?

I wondered when he was going to get to real talk, as no
Arab would dream of inviting a Christian into his harem at
night without some extraordinary reason. Certainly not simply
to be waited on by its inmates, or to gossip about ordinary
topics.

The meal was soon over, the scented dark damsels were
called to remove the utensils, and as they passed out, handed
us a light fan to keep away mosquitoes. It was all very
picturesque, quiet, clean. Oriental, and, in its way, fascinating.

" Do you smoke ? " he asked ; " because, if you do, don't
hesitate. We neither smoke nor drink alcohol ! "

" Yes, I do ! I replied. " It will help me to listen to
your words."

He noticed the compliment, and smiled. Both instinctively
felt the serious talk was to commence.

" Can you read Arabic ? " he asked, producing a letter.

"No! I cannot; but, if you translate it into Kisuahili, I
shall understand !

"This letter," he continued, "came to me ten days ago.
I was then 200 miles from here. I have been travelling as
fast as I could, so as to arrive at the same time as yourself,
or before, if possible. It is from Tip-pu-Tib, my partner,
who is now on the Congo. These Ujiji Arabs have lost a
great deal of property at the coast, in the war against the
Germans, and many of their relatives have been killed. In
order to be revenged, they decided to intercept your party
at the last river and to kill you all.

" The calico was to be equally divided between them. Your
arms and ammunition were to come to me, whilst the vessels
on the lake were to become the property of Tip-pu-Tib.
On receipt of this news Tip-pu-Tib sent special messengers
to me, requesting that I would at once go to Ujiji, stop
all this nonsense, and inform these Arabs that if thev would

171

A WARNING FROM TIP-PU-TIB

not listen to me, I was to place myself and people on your
side, and, together with his retainers, defend you and your
property. I only arrived yesterday at your station, persuaded
the white man to give me a passage here, stopped as we
passed Ujiji, and sent on shore my messenger, who only
reached the Arabs just in time to stop their action."

" Then that accounts for our not receiving a welcome,"
I replied.

"Yes; you would certainly have been killed at your last
camp."

" Will you tell me why both yourself and Tip-pu-Tib took
our part ? "

"Because we have no quarrel with you. We have assisted
every Christian traveller who has been to Ujiji. If these
Arabs had killed you, there would have been much trouble."

" Yes ! there would. I agree with you. It might have
been difficult afterwards to find a comfortable pillow on which
to sleep. I shall never forget your kindness. There are few
men in Ujiji who, like you, have the brains to steer a vessel
when the storm is bursting. Any fool can steer during a calm."

After a moment's silence, as if he was undecided whether
to say what was passing in his thoughts, he said :

"You must leave here to-morrow under my escort, and
not one of your party must linger in the town, or I cannot
be responsible for their lives. The streets are now dark,
and your presence here is known by our enemies. So, if you
care to sleep in my house, I can make you comfortable."

I thanked him, but declined, saying :

"It is necessary for me to return to my friends."

Daylight saw us shaking the dust of Ujiji off our feet,
glad to have escaped from the warm welcome it had proposed
to give us.

I think the most bitter enemies of the Arabs will acknow-
ledge that this intervention of Tip-pu-Tib and Rumaliza was
worthy of all praise.

112

ANGER OF TIP-PU-TIB

It is seldom that a Mohammedan takes sides against his
co-religionists in favour of Christians, and it was the more
remarkable if we remember that none of us had any special
claim on their protection. Neither could blame have rested
on these men, had the plot been successful, as they were
both hundreds of miles distant at the time.

About a month after this happened, Tip-pu-Tib arrived
and sent a messenger inviting me to meet him for a talk.

I found him bursting with indignation, on account of a
letter he had received from officials at Zanzibar, requiring his
presence at the Courts to defend himself in an action brought
against him by Stanley for damages.

Pointing to the letter, he indignantly exclaimed :

" Look at that ! It is a note ordering me to be at the
coast in two months. Stanley accuses me of hindering him
on his journey to find Emin Pasha, and alleges that this was
the cause of Barthelot's death. If I had wished to stop him, I
should not have played with the matter by sending 400 men
instead of 600, as per contract; I should have killed him
years ago. I do not simply hinder^ I destroy ! If I assist,
it is at all costs." Extending his hands, and counting his
fingers, he added :

" Who helped Cameron, Speke, Livingstone ? Who sent
Gleerup from the Congo to Sweden ? Who saved your life,
and those of all your party; was it not me? Have I at-
tempted to hinder any missionaries, although they are not
of my religion and hate my business of catching slaves ? Tell
me! Is there a single European traveller who can honestly
say I was not his friend ? "

I assured him that all had spoken of his kindness and help.
It seemed only to fan the flame, for he ran on : "I am mad
with anger when I think of what we did for Stanley during
his first and second journeys through this country.

" In order to make a big work out of nothing, he went up
the Congo to find Emin Pasha ; why not have walked up the

173

ANGER OF TIP-PU-TIB

much less expensive road from the East Coast? He came to
Zanzibar and begged me to go round the Cape with him, and
to bring my people, all expenses to be paid by himself. I did
not desire to go, choosing rather to walk, as I have always
done, and to transact business as I passed my various depots ;
but he would take no denial, so, out of courtesy, I accom-
panied him.

" He needed my assistance to obtain porters, and, because
only 200 out of the 600 men I sent ran away, I am accused
of wanting to hinder him. Do they not desert from all
Europeans, as well as from Arabs ? The truth is, your
countrymen are criticising his work and the loss of Barthelot,
and he is wanting to blame me. Barthelot lost his life
through bad temper; it was entirely his own fault. I was
hundreds of miles distant, and lost money through the cannibal
porters running away. I cannot understand Stanley. Without
my help he could never have gone down the Congo ; and no
sooner did he reach Europe, than he claimed all my country.
Surely your people must be unjust!'*'*

As he finished this outburst, I quietly replied: "Stanley
has been talking into one ear of Europeans, now you go
and speak in the other. They will listen to you, for we are
accustomed to weigh both sides of a question and love justice.'"'

" Do you ? " he passionately exclaimed ; " then look here —
how did you get India ?

" We fought for it ! "

" Then what you fight for, and win, belongs to you by right
of conquest ?

" Yes ! that is European law ! "

" So it is with us Arabs. Have we ever tried to rob you
of India?"

"I may ask you, in reply, Do these pagans try to rob you
of Ujiji ? The jackal cannot rob the lion."

" Very well, then ! I came here as a young man, fought
these natives and subdued them, losing both friends and

174

ANGER OF TIP.PU-TIB

treasure in the struggle. Is it not therefore mine by both
your law and ours ? "

It is only yours so long as you govern and use it
properly ! " I had touched a sore point, for he rose up and
demanded :

" Who is to be my judge ? "

I knew he had to hear his doom sooner or later, so, with
perhaps more emphasis than usual, I exclaimed, " Europe !
We had got down to bed-rock at last.

" Aha ! he replied, whilst a sickly smile played across his
face, as if badly wounded ; " now you speak the truth. Do
not let us talk of justice; people are only just when it pays.
The white man is stronger than I am ; they will eat my
possessions as I ate those of the pagans, and — " Here he
paused.

Fixing my eyes on his, I asked :

" Well— and what ? "

" Some one will eat up yours ! "

Continuing, he said : " I see clouds in the sky ! The
thunder is near ! / am going."'

I was listening to the capitulation of Central Africa''s
greatest man-hunter. His flag was being hauled down.
What were the trifling inconveniences of my past life com-
pared with the intense satisfaction of being present — the only
white man present — at this great Sedan ?

"Tell Europe Stanley lies; and tell them also, if they love
justice, as you say, to compensate me for stealing my country."

I remained silent, in order to let the great man cool down.

Noticing this, he asked :

" Have you nothing to say to my arguments ?

" Yes ! I have ! It is this, and I know you are strong
and wise enough to hear it without being angry with me.
Europe has sickened of your cruel slave operations, and de-
termined to stop them ! That's the ' cloud ** you see in the
sky, from which the rain is already falling at the coast ! "

175 K

ANGER OF TIP-PU-TIB

It was not a time for smooth words. This terrible man-
hunter was at bay. Pitted against him were the forces of
civihsation, and wheels which have ground all tyrants were
sloAvly crushing him ; yet he was strong enough in his humilia-
tion to allow a single ambassador of freedom to pronounce his
doom without cutting him down with the long keen sword
which lay on the couch by his side.

" It seems to me,*" he said, " that Europe does not like
something I do, and therefore is determined to ruin me. Is
that it?"

" Yes ! if you do not abandon your trade."

" You Europeans do many things I abominate, such as
eating swine's flesh ; but you never saw an Arab try to destroy
your farmyards on account of his aversion to your practices."

" No, I have not. But there is a vast difference between
pigs and men, and, if you will permit me, I will ask you some
questions."

" Certainly," he replied ; " anything you choose ! "
" Well, then, do you believe in one God ? "
" Yes. So do all Mohammedans ; but you say there are
three."

" Do you believe your God created everything ? "
" Yes ! "

" Am I correct in saying you accept everything He does
as, beyond all question, good?"
" Most decidedly I do ! "
" Do you believe in Shetani ? " (the Devil).
" Yes!"

" Did God, or the Devil, make these pagans ? "
" God ! "

"And yet every day you deliberately destroy His good
work, by catching and killing slaves ! Has God made a mis-
take by creating them, and asked you to rectify His error ? "

" They would not acknowledge Him," was his reply, " and
therefore have forfeited His protection."

176

HOSTILITIES COMMENCED

"Then if your son becomes undutiful to you, does it give
me licence to blow out his brains ? Is that Arab justice ? "

" Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob made many slaves, and God
did not punish them," was his final reply, and I saw he desired
to close the argument.

There was something extremely fascinating in this face-to-
face encounter, eight hundred miles from British protection, on
the shores of Tanganyika.

Wealth, power, intelligence, ambition, and cruelty sat re-
presented in that one figure on the sofa. Thousands of men
and guns were at that moment at his command, but his active
brain had weighed them in the balance against yonder little
rain-cloud, and found them " wanting ! " Conscious that
enough had been said, I rose to depart, asking :

" When do you leave for the coast ? "
Next Thursday," he quickly replied.

" Buriani ! " (" Forget and forgive.")

By his own decision he left the interior, never lifting his
hand against the white man, and doing his utmost to persuade
his partner to follow his example. It has been popularly
supposed that he was a kind of political prisoner at Zanzibar ;
this is not correct. He had no desire to return. I always
paid him a visit when passing Zanzibar. The last time we
parted, and shortly before he died, he gave me an autograph
copy of a brief history of his life.

It would perhaps have been putting into practice that
justice which I never ceased to hold before him as our
standard if, when he died, some of our great geographical
societies in Europe had acknowledged how much they were
indebted to Tip-pu-Tib for allowing explorers to travel where
he was in power, collecting valuable scientific data. As it
was, all I have noticed was the announcement of the death of
that " notorious slaver."

Rumaliza, his late partner, elected to stop and fight the
matter out to the bitter end. Communication with the East

177

HOSTILITIES COMMENCED

Coast was now stopped. The Congo State sent an officer to
Tanganyika with instruction to meet me, if possible, to ascer-
tain the exact position of affairs. This meeting did not take
place until too late to stop hostilities, and the western route
was blocked. War at Nyasa against Mlozi shut up the south-
eastern passage; we were isolated, and for over a year could
not get into communication with the outside world. It
became too monotonous, so I wrote a letter with a quill pen,
using the alphabet of Pitman's shorthand (all I could re-
member of it). This, written from right to left, did not look
at all unlike Arabic. Rolling up the scrawl, we inserted it
into the barrel of a tower musket, and the little fraud passed
the enemy's lines, reaching the coast to the relief of our
friends.

With characteristic energy the Germans gave the coast
villains no rest. Town after town, each a sink of iniquity,
was swept away. Hordes of Rugaruga were hunted from
valley and forest, slave dhows confiscated as soon as captured,
and their owners who offered resistance summarily punished.
There was no compromise ; the disease was deep, the surgeon's
knife sharp. Conservative surgery at this time would have
been out of place. The splendid pioneer, Hermann von
Wissmann, like all others, had been compelled to swallow too
many doses of Arab sophistry ; now the plain truth, in all its
nakedness, had to be heard and accepted. The Imperial
Eagle fixed its talons on the quarry, and did not relax its
hold until it had brought about its utter destruction. Fierce
and long were some of the collisions, but the result was always
the same.

The AVagogo, who for years had so insolently demanded
toll from the white traveller, peremptorily ordered the German
officer to camp and pay toll. He camped indeed — making a
zareba instead of paying tribute — and the sun set the follow-
ing evening upon the defeated and scattered remnant of the
once-dreaded Wagogo. Blackmail was dead, and the Kaiser's

178

CONGO STATE OFFICIALS

uniform cast its ominous shadow westward, menacing the great
slave-centres of Unyanyembe and Ujiji.

Vast deposits of ivory were collected at the great depots,
valued at thousands of pounds, but there was no outlet for
it to the coast. Wild rumours of a combined attack by
Europeans on the lake from every quarter gained some
semblance of truth from the arrival of a Congo State official
and troops. They established headquarters on the west side,
their object being to cut off the Arabs from their centre on
the Congo by commanding the western trade-route. This
they knew was their trump card to play in the great diplomatic
and commercial game, as it would stop the enormous leakage
of ivory from the Congo, which was then passing eastwards
through German territory to Zanzibar.

To divert this trade-route was worth a struggle.

On calling to see Captain Storms I found him sitting
outside his charred station, upon a camp - chair, with
absolutely nothing in the world but his cigarettes and a
few rifles. His whole station had just been burned down by
natives.

" What's the meaning of all this ? " I asked.

" War, sir, war ! " was his cheerful reply.

He was a fine specimen of a European officer. His rule
was strict, but just, and none but those who sought to terrorise
over others objected to his administration. For months he
battled against a smallpox epidemic, inoculating thousands
of people. "It is not legal,"' he said, "to do this at: home;
but my vaccine is spoiled. Great diseases require heroic
treatment." Roads had been cut in his district, and security
established. This raised the envy of some western people,
so they set fire to his house.

When I found him in this unpleasant situation he was
under orders to hand over his station to the Alo-erian Mission

o

and to leave for Europe, but he said : " I cannot go now, or
the natives will say they drove me away, and may try the

179

CAPTAIN STORMS

same game on others. No ! I will remain and make those
very people rebuild the station."

" What can I do for you, captain ? " I asked.

" I only want some percussion caps, and I shall be happy.
You are not people who take sides in warfare ; but grant me
this request, as I think it is in the general interest of all white
people in this country."

So did I ! I gladly gave him all I had, and in a few
months I had the pleasure of seeing his whole station rebuilt.
Having vindicated his honour as a soldier, he left for home ;
but he had lost in the fire his very large collection of birds,
and his valuable photographs.

A great deal has been said against the Belgian officers on
the Congo, and I have no desire to enter into the controversy ;
but it is my duty, as well as pleasure, to record that the two
whom I met on Tanganyika, Captains Storms and Jacques,
were gentlemen in the highest interpretation of the word in
their relations with both white and black. Both were fired
with at least as much enthusiasm as myself for the suppres-
sion of the slave-trade, and determined to extend to the native
races committed to their charge the blessings of civilisation.

As I have said, Rumaliza remained behind and decided
to try conclusions with the Congo State for possession of the
great ivory districts around the Aruwimi River. Meantime
a force was collected by the Belgians, and a march made along
the west of Tanganyika. This, of course, excited the Arabs,
and a general gathering of the clans took place.

I was paying a visit to Ujiji at the time, and, when in the
market, overheard the name of Emin Pasha mentioned by a
native. Stopping ostensibly to purchase bananas, I heard
them say he had been murdered near to Manyema. That
evening, when sipping coffee with Rumaliza, I determined to
find out if it was true. The news of Arab defeats at the coast
kept on arriving, and made it difficult to speak on delicate
subjects ; therefore I approached the matter casually by saying :

180

PouxNDiNG Maize into Flour

The flour is sifted in the flat basket and placed in the earthenware pot near the hut ; over this
is inverted a small basket to keep the dust out. The flour is made into thick porridge for the
evening meal. If it should be gritty the women are very much ashamed, and the husband angry.

EMIN PASHA

" How very stupidly people gossip in your market ; they are
like idle people everywhere. We have a saying that Satan
finds mischief for idle hands, and tongues."

"I hope you have not heard anything unpleasant," he
observed.

" Oh no ! " I replied ; " it was only some nonsense about
Emin Pasha having been murdered. Of course it's rubbish."

I did not take my eyes off his face as I uttered the words.
The shot hit the mark, and he knew there was no use trying
evasion, so he answered : " It is true ; he is dead ; it was his
own fault."

Going to a box, he extracted from it a^ piece of bunting,
and unfurling it, asked : " What is that ? "
" The German ensign ! " I replied.

"Yes, it is. Emin Pasha sent it to me from Tabora,
ordering us to hoist it over this town. I have not yet had
the heart to do so ; shall I ? "

" You have no choice, Rumaliza ; for, if you do not, they
will save you the trouble — as the country is theirs."

Returning to me, he continued : " Emin Pasha was a
Mohammedan ; he prayed in our mosques. He sent that flag
to replace our own, and then went to Nyanza and hanged
several Arabs in cold blood; therefore Arabs swore to take
his life. If he had come this way it would have been the
same. Instead of which he tried to escape down the Congo."

" You must be mistaken," I replied. " Emin was a
gentleman."

" I am not mistaken ; I knew the Arabs he hanged."
" What was their offence ? "

" None that I know of ; they declined to sell him the
calico they were taking to Uganda."

It is quite possible the story is untrue.

I immediately sent the news of Emin's death to Renter. It
was doubted for a time ; but, of course, was afterwards corro-
borated. Rumaliza was advised not to fight, but he replied

183

EMIN PASHA

that, if the white men shut up the trade-road, he had no
choice.

My work called me away, and promising to see him
again, I set sail for a breath of fresh air on the lake, where
repeated electrical battles between the clouds did their best
to foreshadow the human conflict then bursting over the
whole country.

184

CHAPTER XI

Captain Trivier — Game Pits — An Annexation — The Walungu
Marriage Customs — The Curse of the People

AFTER a pleasant and refreshing voyage on the lake,
/-\ we met the French traveller, Captain Trivier, who had
arrived from the West Coast.

It was delightful to see a strange face, and to listen to
up-to-date European news. He had a companion with him
and two personal servants, and, on my inquiring how it was
possible for him to have performed such a journey with so
few men, he replied :

"Tip-pu-Tib contracted to transport me to the East
Coast, providing men, food, and safety ; he is acting in my
interests just as your English " Cook does for tourists. As I
shall not go East on account of the war, his contract will end
here and I shall go by the Zambezi."

I was naturally interested to know what this stranger'^s
general impression of the country was like, and was surprised
when he said :

" It is all very interesting, except man ! Let me see the
wild grasses, mountains, rivers, forests, animal and insect
life, but not men — they spoil the picture ! "

This sounded like an echo of the familiar lines —

" Every prospect pleases, and only man is vile."

How strange ! It seemed to me, at the time, about the
last country to visit unless one came in the interest of
humanity, or to indulge in hunting big game. To me, man
was the goal, the beginning and end of our work, all other
subjects being relegated to a secondary position.

185

CAPTAIN TRIVIER

Trivier proved a most genial guest and critic.
"What has your Government sent you here to do?"
he asked.

" Government ! " we echoed. " We are not officials. We
are sent here by a society to open up the country, to estab-
lish mail-routes to the coast, and stations all around this
lake. In fact, to endeavour to undermine and destroy the
curse of Africa ! "

The answer, apparently, was a revelation to him, for he
continued : " I suppose you hand over everything you get
to your Government as soon as you become possessors of
territory ? "

" Wei], captain, the only assets at present are — fever-
racked constitutions, and graves of comrades ! "

" Of course I accept your words without hesitation ;
but, to my French mind, it is a mystery. For instance, this
morning, as I walked through the village, a lad greeted
me with ' Good-morning, master ! ' That"*s not an African
salutation !

" No ! " I replied, " it is distinctly English ! "
" It is," he smilingly admitted the fact, adding, with a
merry twinkle in his eye :

" I smell something in the air ! "

Two months later he had reached Lake Nyasa, meeting
a British Consul who had arrived to arrange peace with
the Arabs, and Trivier wrote me a most amusing letter ;
amongst other items of news was a description of the meet-
ing in these words : " Did I not tell you I smelt something
in the air ? To-day I had the pleasure of saluting a British
Consul, near whose tent was flying the British Flag. I
wish you and your country every success." I fear he was
more mystified than ever as to our real object.

The gallant captain unfortunately lost his companion
whilst our guest. The poor fellow became insane, and
wandered up to a stockade at night. The people, being at

186

GAME PITS

war, probably mistook him for a spy and shot him dead,
hiding his body in a brook when they discovered their mistake.
White men had, up to that time, been surrounded by a kind
of mystery ; natives feared to hurt them, dreading that some
serious unknown calamity would befall the tribe if they took
their lives, and undoubtedly this was a great protection to
all early pioneers.

While searching for the body of this unfortunate man, I
had an unpleasant experience. I had been following a slight
track through the bush, which looked like a man's, and
coming to some bushes which met across this track, pushed
through them rather hurriedly, closing my eyes as a protec-
tion from the branches. In a second I fell headlong into a
game pit. Luckily my rifle was fixed at safety, and did not
explode. I alighted at the bottom, partly on my head and
elbows, with my feet in the air. My position must have
looked ludicrous from the top of the pit. The sun-helmet
was jammed down over my eyes, and I lay all of a heap,
partially stunned, with nose bleeding freely and face some-
what damaged.

Spikes ! I thought. " Are there any spikes through
me ? These dreadful weapons were, I knew, used in most
pits. Scarcely daring to feel, I rolled over into a more
comfortable position, dragged off my impromptu mask, and
caught sight of a horrid sharp bamboo sticking up within
a few inches of the spot where my head had struck the
bottom. Three others, with their points slanting inwards
so as to impale the falling game, were still looking upwards for
a victim. Being too much shaken to move for a few minutes,
I could only lie and look at those cruel points, which had
missed me by a few inches. Only a few months previously
John Kidd, a friend of mine, fell down a similar trap in that
neighbourhood, one of the spikes passing through his leg.

Beyond a severe shaking of body and nerves, I was not
much the worse for this sudden let-down. My two black

187

SANGALA

eyes were a source of amusement to my boys when they
chatted over the fire, and did not know I was listening.

One little chap remarked : " Master went down white,
and came up partly black ; if he gets many more falls like
that we shall be all one colour.'" I could not suppress a
laugh, which they heard, and scampered off, probably to
continue the joke.

A period of complete mental rest was prescribed by the
doctor, so I indulged in fishing, and had some that would
excite the envy of every angler in the world. The sangala were
at that time in good condition, so I was rowed slowly along the
rocky coast, trailing a spoon-bait at the end of about one
hundred yards of line. Suddenly one of these great fish made
a dash at the glittering bait, and nearly took out all the line
before I realised what he was up to. A check in his mad
career, and a few sharp strokes with the oar, gave time to
recover line just as the fish sprang out of the water almost
alongside the boat. That he was a beauty was beyond doubt,
but whether we could land him was another question.

Using careful tactics, the boy paddled slowly towards the
shallows, and this the fish resented by at once making for deep
water. A long chase ensued, with alternate hopes and fears ;
but at length his effbrts became less vigorous, and he floundered
about near the surface, where the warmer water probably in-
creased his weakness, and we drew him slowly towards us. I wish
I could have photographed the dying monster, with his silvery
scales glistening in the sun. I could not use the net, for it was
not large enough ; so, making a clove-hitch with some spun yarn,
I slipped it over his tail and hung on as he made his final bid
for liberty. A few more seconds and he lay at the bottom of
the boat. My joy can only be imagined by anglers, for on
weighing he scaled thirty-four pounds.

Lieut. Stairs, whilst on a visit to us, hooked several heavier
than this, and the Lakes Company's employees netted one with
a seine-net which turned the scale at ninety pounds. It is

188

AN INDABA

more than likely that heavier sangala have been caught since
then.

I could have revelled in such sport for a month, but a
second mound had to be raised, and another shady tree found,
to mark the resting-place of my little daughter Eva. This for
the time banished all desire for either work or play, and some-
what neutralised the benefit derived from my holiday on the
water. The Walungu, in whose country we resided, owned the
whole of South Tanganyika, and about this time a messenger
arrived from the chief, asking if I would meet them at a
council to discuss tribal matters. I accepted their invitation.
Kitimbwa, the paramount chief, occupied the central mat.
Around him were gathered the sub-chiefs and head-men.

I could not imagine what subject was to be discussed, for so
far as I knew, nothing important had happened to disturb
their calm.

The usual mysterious and irritating preliminaries in all
these indabas went on for some time. They love to make
mountains out of mole-hills, for these gatherings constitute
a kind of serious bank-holiday, and so are made the most of.
At length an orator stepped into the clear space before the
chief, lay down, and rolled over in the dust (an expression of
loyalty). Pointing his spear to the hills, he shouted : " Our
fathers are sleeping around us, some by the river, others on the
hill-tops ; their spears were buried with them, with the exception
of one which was given to Kitimbwa ; that is it lying by his
side. With that spear descended the power to speak to us as
his fathers did. To-day he speaks ! Listen ! these are his
words : ' On account of war, and disease, the Walungu are few ;
their land is extensive, but the children cannot protect it.

" ' The Awemba gave us no sleep ; the Arab ate up our
daughters. Until the white men came we knew no friends.
They fed us vvhen our crops were stolen. They sheltered us
when our huts were burned. They gave medicine to our sick,
and spoke to our enemies with guns in their hands. I am

189

AN ANNEXATION

getting old and tired ; you are weak. Let us give our land to

the white men ! '

All present knelt down and clapped their hands, saying :
" Tata witu ! Tata witu ! " (equivalent to " We agree ;

lit. "Our father

Kitimbwa then turned to me, saying :
You have heard our words. We give you our land ; will

you accept ? "

I explained that I valued their offer, but that my chiefs had
no desire to possess their country ; we came to help them, and
did not wish for reward. Besides, I should have to consult my
comrades. He answered : " If you refuse, we shall be eaten up
and our tribe will cease to live.'"*

The pros and cons were duly discussed at our station, and
we agreed to take over the country in the meantime. Title-
deeds were drawn up and signed by the chief, and I became
trustee for the London Missionary Society of all Ulungu.
The map was being painted red in spite of us, certainly not
by our seeking or desire.

This proved only a rehearsal, as it happened, for the real
John Bull was even then at our doors; and if that French
critic had been with us, I confess it would have been more
difficult to disabuse his mind as to our real intentions. A
special messenger arrived with the news that a British Consul
was approaching. This was a real surprise, for we had begun
to imagine ourselves independent people, beyond the thoughts
of Downing Street, much too insignificant for this diplomatic
notice. We were wrong ! The great John Bull was about to
sweep us into the Empire whether we wished it or not. I went
out to meet the representative of Britain, expecting to see a
military escort, Union Jack, bayonets, sword, and perhaps an
eye-glass. Nothing of the sort appeared. Across the plain
walked a few natives who preceded the Consul. He was a
small man, riding a donkey, and wearing a man-o'-warVman's
straw hat, which gave him quite a youthful appearance.

190

AN ANNEXATION

As we met he held out his hand pleasantly, saying :
" I am Consul Johnston. Are you Mr. Swann ? "
No show of any sort, no side ; just a man meeting a man in
the heart of Africa. He might well have been mistaken for
a tourist, taking photographs. He was scrupulously attired,
and at home on the donkey. I felt that this calm and polite
servant of the Crown would have annexed half a continent to
the Empire before luncheon, making the owners feel they ought
to reward him handsomely for the trouble of signing his name
to the transfer. Who could have imagined that under the
innocent-looking sailor's hat, a mind was handling difficult
international problems relating to territory extending from
where we stood eastwards to the Indian Ocean, southwards to
the Zambezi, and northwards to Cairo. Yet such was the case.
He listened courteously to the story of our acquisition of the
country he came to secure, without a sign of disappoint-
ment.

After a quiet discussion of the position, we decided it was
best for treaties to be made directly with the Crown, and for
us to waive most of our prior right to the land, retaining suf-
ficient to build stations on and to plant gardens. A voyage
together for several days, in an open boat, only tended to
increase my respect for Johnston, now Sir Harry Johnston.
Although fond of comfort, even when in the bush, he never
complained of the many inconveniences attending such a voyage.
His recreation was sketching aquatic birds, wild grasses, and
any object of interest.

We rowed up the Lofu, visited Kabunda, a Balooch who
entertained us to the best of his ability.

The chiefs could not understand giving their land away a
second time, and asked :

" Was our gift not acceptable that you give it away so
soon to a stranger ? We do not know this person ! Is he
your brother or friend ? "

To all such questions I replied :

191

AN ANNEXATION

" Sign the paper ; it is best to do so, and then you will live
in peace and be buried with your fathers.^'

I had been reading of our British troops marching out of
the old Indian Forts, when they were given back to the native
princes, with their bands playing, "Tommy, make room for
your Uncle."' It was now my turn to make room for John
Bull, without the assistance of a military band, and I confess
to doing so with very mixed feelings.

The Lofu valley being thus secured by treaty, we made for
the east coast, where the same process was repeated with
minor chiefs until the whole of the south end was practically
British territory. Before Johnston left us I remarked :
" When you are gone, and these people are attacked, they will
fly to us for protection. You have left flags and treaties, but
nothing to protect them."

" Yes," he replied, '* that is true ; you will probably be
appealed to, and it will be annoying because you cannot
defend them. Some one is always inconvenienced by great
changes such as these, but there is no occasion to anticipate
trouble."

We shall see a little later what was the sequel to that
treaty- making.

A few weeks after he left I went out on the plain to shoot
game, pitching the tent near to a large village where Kabunda's
people resided. The evening was pleasantly passed in relating
stories of travel and adventure. Several men gave a dance, and
all were happy. The Arabs had lived there several years and
married the chiefs daughters. I moved away early the next
morning to hunt, and, on returning about sunset, I found not
a single hut standing. The whole place had been burned
down. Not a living soul could be found. The scoundrels
had suddenly turned on the people who had sheltered them
for years, captured them all, and made them carry ivory to the
coast. I was astonished at the suddenness of the calamity and
complete secrecy of the plot. Poor Walungu ! their cup was

192

THE WALUNGU

indeed full and running over, although the British flag flew
over the tribe !

On returning home, one of the men, hearing a faint cry
in the grass, searched and discovered a baby boy about three
months old, with its left arm broken. It had been pitched
into the grass by those fiends to die; they could not be
bothered with it. We took it home, putting the tiny arm
into splints, and gave it goat's milk. Not a single native
woman would give it the breast ! " No," said they, " we
cannot feed the child of a stranger; if it dies we shall be
accused of poisoning it." " Keep away from trouble," is
their motto. "Mind your own business," is deeply im-
pressed on their thoughts from childhood. And indeed
there was a great deal of common sense about their
attitude; for if the youngster had died, they would cer-
tainly have had trouble to convince its relatives that it
had died from natural causes.

The question now arose as to whose duty it was to attend
to that child ; some one had to, as the natives refused.

I was married, my companion was not, so we cast lots,
and the lot fell on us. I was never more sorry to win the
toss. We kept the little chap some time, but his cries nearly
drove us stupid, and we seized an opportunity of handing
"Thompson," as we named him, over to our Jamaica friends.
His mother escaped on the road, and came back to look for
her child ; she heard we had found it, but she lived a long
time in a neighbouring village, afraid to let us know who she
was. The two were afterwards brought together.

Like most other tribes, the W^alungu sent their daughters
away into the privacy of what might be called a tuition class,
where they were instructed in all the duties pertaining to
married life. This tuition varies in each tribe; some teachino-s
are attended by practices which do not appeal to our ideal of
morality, but others are quite harmless.

The object of the parents may be gathered from the

193 L

MARRIAGE CUSTOMS

following explanation given me by a father whose young
daughter (about ten years old) had just been sent to the
" Unyago,"" as it is generally called.

A girl is married at an early age, and becomes the
youngest wife of her husband, who may have several wives
already.

As the marriage in most cases is not the outcome of real
love, it is necessary that the child-wife shall, as far as possible,
not make her husband cross by ignorance of household duties.
She is therefore put through a training in everything which
she will be expected to perform. Above all — and this seems
the main point — her childish will must be completely broken
by extremely harsh discipline. This is done in order to make
her obey her husband in all things without question.

Girls in our country are sent to boarding-schools, not only
to be taught the three R's, but that their corners may be
knocked off by others less indulgent than parents.

This same idea is present in the native mind, only their
manner of life practically compels them to impart instruction
to their children which is not needed in this country, as our
daughters live under our protection until they arrive at
womanhood.

The men expect to get a wife w^ho, as they put it, "is
not an idiot," and who will not be continually crying for
mother. In order to make them bear trouble without crying,
cold water is dashed over them when asleep, and if they
utter a cry they are punished. If they disobey they are not
allowed to sleep. They are also forced to lie on hot cobs
of maize without crying. All kinds of hideous masks are
worn by the old women to frighten them into absolute
obedience. If to all this is added other practices which are
common to these ordeals, it is not to be wondered at that
when the girl is brought out into society she can scarcely
face her own parents, much less strangers. The little creature's
will is entirely broken ; she is scared of the dark ; she believes

194

A Marriage Procession

The young child brides are too bashful to ace the camera. Their bodies are covered with oil,
and every scrap of bead- work has been given or lent them. Relatives are following with a sleeping
mat;^ the inverted baskets contain some delicacy to eat, and they will be serenaded all night by a
« dancing, beer-drinking crowd.

MARRIAGE CUSTOMS

all manner of evil will happen to her, and her people, if
she does not implicitly obey her husband and conform to
all the exacting duties of life.

In fact, she is an utterly different girl in every respect.
In one month she has passed from innocence to knowledge,
childhood to womanhood, and life in all its reality has burst
upon her young mind, well-nigh leaving her hypnotised. In
this state she is paraded before the public, oiled from head to
foot, and decorated with every scrap of ornamental bead- work
her girl friends can lend or give to her. The old women
under whose training she has been, with intensely anxious
countenances, watch her perform the graceful motions of a
dance, arranged so as to throw into prominence all the best
lines of her figure. I have watched both debutantes and
trainers, and there can be no doubt whatever that both are
deeply serious over this most important time in a girl's
life. '

The dance being over, she is led away to her husband's
house in the evening; and not until she has cooked next
morning's porridge for her husband is she allowed to break
the silence which has bound her tongue for a month, except as
used in a song. With a few minor additions, the above may
be taken as a general description of these initiatory functions
practised by the various tribes.

A most elaborate salutation was used by this tribe. On
meeting the chief in the morning, they would at once lay down
anything they were carrying, kneel down and clap their hands
several times, bending almost to the earth. When meeting
one another the same performance was gone through, accom-
panied with the following conversation : —

" Our Father ! Our Father ! "

" Have you eaten well ? "

" How could I eat when you have all the food ? "
This was meant, not as a complaint, but as a compli-
ment. It was varied slightly as the day advanced, and one

197

THE CURSE OF THE PEOPLE

often wondered they were not bored to death repeating the
same words many times a day.

So far as intelligence goes, I think they were the densest
people I have met. This may have been caused by the
long and terrible ordeal through which they had passed.
Having lived for years on dried fish, they suffered from a
warty growth which made it necessary that they should be
isolated from the tribe. It was not leprosy, but persons
afflicted with it were not permitted to come near the
villages, or to handle anything belonging to others, so great
was the fear of infection. Two or three years seemed to be
the usual period spent in these segregated camps, many be-
coming quite restored to health, whilst others succumbed,
probably in consequence of malnutrition and want of attend-
ance. Lime, powdered and mixed with charcoal, was applied
to the sores as a disinfectant.

One of these camps was situated to the north of our
village, where lions often prowled at night, quite near the
open houses, without attempting to touch the diseased people,
who appeared to court death — and no wonder ; their lives were
filled wdth nothing but misery.

Whilst I was sitting one evening with my wife in our
verandah, she called my attention by asking, Whafs that ? "
I had not noticed any sound, and replied that it was " perhaps
the cattle.^"* A few minutes later all doubt was dispelled, for
a lion roared close to the stockade, a kind of challenge to
" come out and take it ! "

The village being surrounded by high poles, with thorns

along the top, there was no immediate danger. The diseased

people outside, disdaining any attempt at defence, shouted

back defiantly, and even challenged the brute to do its worst.

" Come this way, and don't go creeping around those poles ;

you know you cannot jump over. Your voice is like the

thunder, it makes plenty of noise, but it is the lightning

which kills; vou are not the lightning. Go and hide your

198

THE CURSE OF THE PEOPLE

clumsy head in the hole of the forest pig, and take care the
rabbit does not bite your nose."'''

For clever, scathing sarcasm, I think that is extremely
good. Then came what to me was a revelation of the secret
of all their actions and taunts.

" Are your claws sharp enough to tear a child's heart out ?
Can you bite me and live Come, coward, come ! / will
transfer the Walungu curse to you and your tribe for ever!''''

Aha! that was the secret! They believed the tribe suf-
fered under some curse (how this was incurred I was unable to
ascertain), and that if one could provoke a lion to bite him,
the cursed disease would be transferred from the tribe to the
lions.

Strange as it may appear, I never heard of lions attacking
any of these isolated wretches ; neither have I been able to find
a native who knew of a single instance.

One could easily have lived years amongst these people
without knowing of this supposed curse (as they seldom
speak of such things), had not special attention been directed
to their spontaneous expressions at a critical moment.

It will be understood how necessary it is to possess not
only sufficient knowledge of their tongue to carry on the
ordinary duties of life, but to understand the hidden meanings
of their somewhat flowery expressions, before one can properly
read their lives. To make a mental note of the tribal curse
for future use was the work of a second, but a much more
immediate practical duty was to deal with that lion.

A goat was killed and placed on the stockade to tempt his
lordship, whilst three of us kept watch with rifles behind the
fence ; outside was not good enough, as the night was dark.

In a few moments deep growls issued from the forest close
by, and a whisper passed — " Here he comes ! "

The growls continued at the same place, so we imagined he
had either seen or heard us. In this we were mistaken.

We were being deceived by the same artifices that lions

201

THE CURSE OF THE PEOPLE

use to catch game at night. There were two at the little
game — one growling, in order to divert attention from its
mate, who, before we knew of his presence, passed within a
few inches of our rifles on the other side of the fence, without
a sound. Bang! went the rifle of a comrade, and the lion
gave tongue with a vicious growl, bounding away in the
darkness.

" Did you hit him ? I asked.

" Well, I can't say. I don't see how he could have
escaped. But he came so suddenly I had no time to aim."'

Escape he did, for a search next morning revealed only
spots of blood and hair where he had lain down to scratch
the wound. We never bagged him !

On returning from the search, I walked up to the diseased
people who had been quite at the mercy of these two brutes,
and addressing an old man, asked :

" Father, why did you talk to the lions last night —
were they your friends ? ''

With a slow, painful movement, he sat upright and gave
the usual salutation :

" Tata witu '' (" Our Father "). " The lions refused to carry
me away to the forest with the curse of our tribe. It was
my last chance. I and my children will die, as no more lions
will come my way ! "

How extremely pathetic ! A human soul, diseased, poor,
and an outcast. Black of skin, with a white heart, crouching
on the ground in one of the most isolated corners of the
world, lamenting the lost opportunity of becoming a scape-
goat to bear away the awful curse resting on his tribe.

" No more lions will come my way ! " None were needed !
for another stealthy messenger saved them the trouble before
the new moon was born.

202

CHAPTER XII

Making Treaties — Hunting the Hippopotamus — Boiling Springs
— Religious Views — A Nugget — Scenery of Lake Tangan-
yika— A Native Regatta.

OUR routine of life was again disturbed by the arrival
of a special envoy from Consul Johnston, request-
ing me to make treaties with the chiefs at North
Tanganyika on behalf of the Government, as the Powers
considered it necessary to have such a willing and amicable
agreement with the owners of the country before claiming
the right to include it in their " Spheres of Influence."

Our possessions at this time extended from Cape Town
up to the lake, but a strip of country at the extreme north
separated it from the waters of the Nile; if this could be
legitimately secured, the chain of possessions would be
complete up to Cairo.

No country had a prior claim to this particular strip of
land. I had a long consultation with my comrades, but
they declined to have anything to do with Johnston's request,
stating as their reason that it was impossible to depart from
the Society's rule which forbade interference in politics. If
I used the vessels in my charge for the purpose, it must be
distinctly understood that I did so on my own responsibility.
They acknowledged that our country had a prior right, as
we had spent some thousands of pounds on the lake, but
their duty was to obey the rules of the Society.

It was a dilemma. On the one hand, an opportunity
presented itself of hoisting our flag over a people for whom
so much had been spent; and this was a great temptation.
On the other hand, I had to face this refusal of my comrades

203

MAKING TREATIES

to take part with me, and possible censure from the directors
if I made the treaties. I decided to take the responsibility,
as it seemed to me that no one could possibly object to my
helping to secure for the British Crown tracts of country
upon which up to that time nothing had been spent by any
other country.

Mr. and Mrs. Fred Moir arrived from Blantyre, and were
very keen to visit Ujiji, so I offered them a passage in our
open sailing-boat, at the same time pointing out that the
accommodation was very limited, and as the passage would
certainly occupy a week, it might be very unpleasant for a
lady ; also that I could not bring them back, as treaty-
making would absorb my time after reaching Ujiji. Nothing
daunted my Scotch friends, so we set sail for a run of about
three hundred miles. The sleeping-berth for one was so
small that Mrs. Moir's face was only a few inches from the
deck planks as she lay in bed, and how she endured the dis-
comfort was difficult to understand. Moir had to sleep on the
little deck in the open air, whilst I steered night and day.

On reaching the Roman Catholic mission station, after
a run of twenty-four hours, I dropped off to sleep, while my
passengers walked on shore to visit the hospitable Padres.
Ujiji was reached in about five days, and there Rumaliza
gave us of his best, and entertained all our people in his
usual lavish style. Everything was, of course, very novel to
this Scottish lady, who made good use of her camera, and
afterwards her pen, to describe her adventures.

Moir purchased some of the accumulated ivory, and re-
turned south in a dhow. Anchoring near Karema for shelter
from the monsoon, they were suddenly attacked by natives,
who had been attracted by the large quantity of ivory, and
who w^ere well known to be quarrelsome and dangerous. I
never anchored in their country, as it was the only place where
we dared not land. The attack was so fierce that they ex-
perienced great difficulty in getting away, the wind being

204

HUNTING THE HIPPOPOTAMUS

unfavourable, and surf breaking on the shore. A bullet
passed through Mrs. Moir"'s helmet, and most of the crew
had narrow escapes. To this ordeal was added a long and
stormy passage to the south end ; and the strain on their
nerves quite counterbalanced any good they might have pre-
viously derived from the visit.

The country to which I was travelling being more or less
under the influence of Rumaliza, I was compelled to obtain his
consent and introduction to the chiefs. This was readily
granted, and we sailed northwards for the Rusizi River,
passing at night between hundreds of canoes, used for fish-
ing, with small charcoal fires burning in a frame at the bow,
to attract the delicious whitebait which swarm in the deep
waters. As the tiny fish are attracted by the light, they
are scooped up with large nets. The people loaded us with
bunches of bananas, which were growing in great abundance
everywhere; and goats were so numerous that we could buy
one for a yard of calico, or two pennyworth of beads.

Hippopotami abounded, their fat being brought for sale
to all the local markets. I accepted a cordial invitation to
see the people hunt this animal with spears in large canoes.
It was not comfortable to go amongst a herd of snorting hippo
in so frail a craft, but they did not seem to see danger.
I did !

Our canoe contained eight men beside myself. One at
each end steered as required ; the remainder were armed with
stabbing spears and paddles. We slowly approached the first
herd, but none of the huge creatures would let us get very
close to them.

How do you manage to spear them I asked.

"It is only possible to do it when they become fierce and
charge!" they answered.

I had often shot them, but that was a different thing from
enticing them to charge ; it seemed too risky a game, but not
wishing, or daring, to show the white feather, I kept silent.

205

HUNTING THE HIPPOPOTAMUS

It would be stupid to say I was not nervous, for I was, having
no rifle and not being a good swimmer. Besides, I did not
like being wholly dependent on some one else's skill in avoid-
ing danger. I had a longing to get hold of the helm and
clear out of an awkward corner. In a moment three men
sprang overboard, and quietly swam towards the herd.
" What are they up to ? "

" Teasing them ! " the skipper replied ; " they will not
attack us unless we make them savage."

I unlaced both my boots and removed my socks, antici-
pating a bath. It was the only back-door, and I inwardly
vowed never to get into such an idiotic position again. On
the approach of the swimmers, a male hippo dived. " Rudi !
Rudi ! " the others shouted. (" Come back ! come back ! ")
These chaps knew what that dive meant, and in a few
seconds they were back in the canoe. As the last one was
dragged in, the hippo rose with a snort close to the spot
where they had been swimming.

Shouts of derision were hurled at him by the crew as
they picked up the spears. Down went the great head as
the skipper shouted, " Look out, he's coming ! " Sure enough
he was, for in a moment he rose a few yards from the canoe,
opened his ugly mouth, and giving a vicious snort, flung
his great head over the side of the canoe. All except two
jumped to the opposite side to counterbalance the weight;
these two dug sharp spears into the softer part of the animal's
neck ; another hit him over the nose with an axe. This was
to make it impossible for him to close the nostril, so that
he could not keep under water. His attack had been rather
too sudden, for he succeeded in pressing the gunwale under,
and the canoe filled, pitching the lot of us into the water.

What with the shouts of the men and the splashing of
the enraged hippo (which could not dive on account of the
cut nostril), sending blood flying all over the water, it was
an aquatic pandemonium in which no one need desire to be

206

BOILING SPRINGS

mixed up. I saw the brute make a plunge at the nearest
man, but he simply dived and came up laughing, out of
danger. Such coolness was astonishing. " Dive, master, if
he comes for you. They can't bite under water, and he
cannot dive ; the water would drown him — his nose is
dead."

This was the advice tendered me, but I sincerely hoped
I should not need to put it into practice. The herd answered
the grunts of the wounded one, which made ofi* to join them,
going like a motor-boat along the surface, and blowing
jets of blood and water as he swam. It was the work of a
second for the men to turn over our canoe, and a few vigorous
see-saw pulls sent the water flying over the ends ; baling
completed the work, and we were all snug on board again.

The spears, having been fastened to string, were hauled up.
Anxious to impress on them that I possessed an inquiring
turn of mind, I ventured to ask, " Does this often happen ? "

" Yes ! but usually we manage to keep the boat from
filling with water ; to-day we were not quick enough." They
certainly spoke the truth for once, and I never gave them a
chance to retrieve their character with me as a passenger.

At the north-west corner of the lake we discovered boiling
water bubbling up at the base of the mountains. It emitted
a sulphurous odour, and tasted somewhat bitter. When
allowed to settle, a fine white sediment was deposited in the
glass. Several huts were standing in the shade of the over-
hanging trees, and on going up to examine them we found
eight men with large ulcers on their legs. They told us
the hot water was used to bathe the ulcers, and that it
cured them after a time. One gathered from this that it
possessed healing properties, or at least helped to kill
microbes and assisted nature. The same use was made of
the springs around Lake Nyasa.

That night we slept near the spot, and felt several
distinct shocks of earthquake. The natives assured me it

m

SPIRIT HOUSES

was quite a common occurrence. They called it " The earth
shaking from the cold."' Quite the opposite to our ideas of
the phenomena.

Close by, in a grove of banana trees, I saw a group of
images placed in a circle. They were beautiful specimens
of carving, but represented most hideous faces of men and
beasts. Bead- work of a pretty design adorned the necks,
and by the side of one lay a broken spear. Near was a
miniature hut, most beautifully fashioned and thatched with
grass. It was just a toy house, about a foot high, such as
any lad might make to play with. A small mat lay spread
on the verandah ; a stool stood near the door, at which had
been placed a pot of maize flour.

I always felt a great respect for those attempts to pro-
pitiate the Unseen. So far as sincerity goes, they compare
favourably with more civilised exhibitions of devotion. My
men called some natives who stood at a little distance, and
I asked them to sit down and talk through an interpreter.
They readily consented, and the following chat ensued : —

" Will you tell me what that little hut is for ? "

" It is for our dead chief's spirit to sleep in.""

" Does your dead chief get tired and need rest ? "

" Yes ! they have many children to visit every day ! "

" What is that flour for ?

" For the chief to eat ! "

" Does he eat it ? "

" No ! If we want to go on a journey, or need rain,
or any other thing, we bring food here to show our ancestors
we really want assistance, and they help us."

"You mean that 'Leza' (the Creator) helps you, not
your ancestors; is not that so?"

" No ! Leza speaks to no man. No man can speak to

Him ; He talks with our ancestors, and they help us after

speaking to Him ; but they will not do so unless we bring

here some small present of food, or oil, or beads."

208

A NUGGET

I was listening to a sermon, the heads being: Faith,
sincerity of appeal, mediation, answers from the invisible
God. As there is no record of the Christian religion ever
having been taught to those people, the sermon was inter-
esting, if not instructive.

Palm-oil was being manufactured in all the villages,
affording employment to the men, whilst women made pots
out of a grey clay in which to transport the oil to the
lake ports.

In the deep ravines, high upon the mountains, grew
enormous trees, with gigantic creepers running up them
almost to the top. It was grand to stand and see these
lofty trees swaying in the wind, and interesting to calculate
what their value will be when the lake shore is populated
with civilised races, intent on building ships. Rubber vines
appeared plentiful, but the steep hillsides had been washed
almost clean by the heavy rains, and would not bear a
crop even of rank grass.

I lay half asleep one evening, when a voice outside the
tent asked, "Master, are you asleep?"

" No," I replied. " Come in ; who are you ? "

My visitor was a local Arab, and after assuring himself
that we were alone he unrolled a dirty piece of calico, out
of which he produced a nugget of yellow metal, saying :

" Is that ' tha habu ' ? " (gold).

" Where did you get it ? "

" Will you tell the Germans if I let you know ? "
" I cannot promise anything until I know where it came
from. "

" If it's gold, do you know how to get it out of the
stone ? and would you give us a half share if we let you
transact the business ? "

"I cannot arrange anything unless I know where this
was found." The secret I determined to have first; the
other was mere detail.

211

SCENERY OF LAKE TANGANYIKA

Coming closer, he whispered, " Near the town of Ujiji ! "
His greedy, anxious eyes were fixed on mine, trying to read
an answer.

"There is no necessity for so much secrecy," I explained
when I had looked at the nugget. " This is neither gold
nor copper; it is valueless. See! I cannot cut it with my
penknife ; it is iron pyrites ! In future, if you find any-
thing yellow like this, and you can cut it, most likely it
will be gold or copper — which are both soft."'

I am certain he did not believe it was the truth, for he
said, " Give it me ; I will take care of it."

It is well known that vast deposits of iron ore, of good
quality, are distributed all over Equatorial Africa, awaiting
the advent of another race who will turn it to account.

In addition to palm-oil, honey and wax were collected
and sold, a good-sized bucketful of honey costing about
two yards of calico. The wax was usually sold in balls
for rubbing the strings of bows and polishing drums. Others
daubed it over leaks in the canoes. Graphite was dug from
the hill and disposed of in small pieces to the women, for
polishing their earthenware pots ; the men smeared it over
their bodies, mixed with grease, especially during the rains,
when it took the place of an umbrella, as the rain ran off
its smooth surface. Salt was purchased at Ujiji in exchange
for ground-nut oil. Thus these natives led a fairly busy life.
It was the most interesting end of Tanganyika. The moisture-
laden south-east winds water the whole mountain chain, which
stretches away northwards in parallel lines.

Standing on a hilltop and looking down on this won-
derful inland sea, I tried to realise the feelings of the early
explorers when they discovered the Rusizi River flowing into
the lake, and not out of it, towards the Nile, as they fondly
expected it did, and the question arose. Had this lake,
in the heart of Africa, ever been connected with the sea.?
I could not answer it myself, but science has attempted to

212

A Nati\'e Smelting l^u knack

A disused iron smelting furnace with a piece of iron ore at the side. The furnace is made of clay
divided into compartments for the ore and fuel. The bog iron is excavated and piled up inside ;
and charcoal and wood are used for fuel. In some districts the draught is increased by bellows
inserted into holes in the sides.

TANGANYIKA AND THE SEA

do so since I dwelt in reverie on the mountain, waiting to
make treaties.

Mr. Moore, who with others examined the medusas I
forwarded to England, was sent out by the lloyal Society
to make further investigations, based on the discovery of
these unique jellyfish, and he tells us that "there are great
quantities of jellyfish in Tanganyika. Only two instances
are known of jellyfish being found in fresh water, this instance
and that in the Botanical Society^s Gardens in Regent's
Park. No doubt the latter specimen owes its presence to
some tropical plant.

The shrimps are very marine in type. The Arabs curry
them. I know of no other fresh-water shrimp that is eaten.
Again, the shellfish are unlike any fresh- water shellfish now
known. Only the dead shells of these had been sent to
England before.

" All the Tanganyika shellfish produce their young alive —
they do not lay eggs ; some have certain protrusive snouts,
like certain salt-water shellfish. The lake possesses also
certain peculiar sponges. Though not like any known sea-
sponge, they are more like sea-sponges than they resemble the
hitherto known fresh-water sponge. They grow on the dead
shell of the shellfish, mostly in deep water. They are not
likely to be of practical use, for when dried they crumble to
pieces.

" The whole question has presented two hypotheses — either
that the marine type of fauna of Tanganyika has been pro-
duced by the animals living in conditions similar to those in
the sea, but without having any connection with the animals of
the sea ; or, secondly, that the lake at some remote period has
been in direct connection with the sea. I am inclined to favour
the latter view — namely, that at some very remote period the
lake was in touch with the sea, perhaps to the north."

The general aspect, as it appears to navigators, has been
well described by Hore : —

215

SCENERY OF LAKE TANGANYIKA

" Owing to the immense evaporation, the opposite shores,
even where only fifteen miles distant, are visible only in the
rainy season : then, sailing down the centre of the lake, one
realises its trough-like character, but coasting inshore, there
is a great variety of scenery; here, for thirty miles at a
stretch, you sail in deep water, alongside the mountains, which
rise steeply to over a thousand feet, showing broad patches of
rock amongst miles of beautiful trees ; again, in a few places,
shallow flats only permit access to the shore by poling in
canoes. Steep rocky islands, with dry soil, set out in the lake
so as to be always ventilated, supply sites for residences,
and many fine natural harbours give facility for navigation.
Pebbly creeks, with clear water and pretty shells, fringe the
drier and more scrubby forest regions of lower elevation,
and invite the visits of the buffalo, zebra, and elephant.

"Muddy river-mouths, half choked with reeds and papyrus,
and swarming with hippopotami and crocodiles, afford a home
for ducks, geese, the ibis, kingfishers, the crested crane, and
other aquatic birds.

" The lake itself, with its long open stretches of deep
blue sea, causes all sense of confinement to be lost. In fine
weather there is no more delightful place for sailing, there
being but few reefs and shallows. The perpetual hum of
insects at night on the shore gauges the distance from the
beach as the boat recedes or approaches, and seems, with
the flickering will-o'-the-wisp marking out the water's edge, to
welcome the home-coming voyager. Another aspect is given
by the monsoon of the dry season, sometimes lasting as a
gale for four or five days, only lulling slightly at night,
and causing a bad sea running the whole length of the lake,
against which it is difficult for a small boat to beat.

" At daybreak masses of clouds, piled up on one of the
great mountain capes, begin to drop down over the water
as the vi^ind begins to rise, and the water is lashed into little
waves. The wind increases until it blows a gale. The sky

216

SCENERY OF LAKE TANGANYIKA

clears, and a great dryness follows ; the long row of cloud
masses on the western shore remain, discharging their moisture,
whilst the lake basin is hot and dry."

Such is the general aspect of the dry season, and with
a good yacht, no better sailing could be had than to beat
down against that south-east gale.

I have frequently heard people say that birds are scarce in
Africa. This has not been my experience. Songsters are rare,
I admit, but birds — they abound everywhere, except in dry
forests many miles from water.

I see Captain Hore noticed this, for he says : " I think the
birds are most in evidence. The ostrich on the plains ; the
guinea-fowl, partridge, and dove in the woods; the pelican
and spoonbill, the crested crane, and many others in the
marshes ; the spur-winged and the solan goose, duck, and teal
in the lagoons ; the ibis, the lily trotter, and a host of others
in river-mouths and quiet creeks — all find congenial homes on
the lake shore and adjoining country. The vulture, the hawk,
and the fish-eagle overhead, innumerable small birds in the trees
and bushes, the golden oriole, with its noisy colonies of many
nests amongst the long reeds, enliven every feature of the scene.

" The seasons have their special birds. In the freshness of
the morning the pied kingfisher is seen, hovering over the
water and dropping like a flash upon its prey; then there
is the darter, the scissor-bill, and at night the goatsucker.
To this list might be added millions of swallows, which pass
twice a year in their annual flights."

All these subjects I was enabled to think about during my
enforced detention on account of the chiefs not yet having
made up their minds to receive me for a chat about the land.
It was of no use trying to force the pace ; that would have sent
them into their shells for a year or two. Quiet persuasion
and patience, I knew, were the most effective weapons to use
against their natural suspicion of this utter stranger.

As the time was rapidly passing, I thought it well to

217 M

A NATIVE REGATTA

advertise my presence by organising a regatta. Thirty-seven
canoes were soon collected to compete over a distance of a
mile, each canoe to carry six men, with bamboo poles for
punting in the shallow water.

1st prize, eight yards of red twill.
2nd four ,, blue calico.

3rd two white calico.

At the discharging of a revolver the whole lot dashed off.
Three pairs collided during the first hundred yards ; noisy
jokes were freely discharged by the competitors, all taking
the spill in the best possible spirit. In the scramble out of
the water they were blissfully indifferent as to which canoe
they entered, their idea being to get themselves first past the
winning post ; the boat could not wear the cloth, and did not
seem to count.

How frantically those men punted ! Every few seconds
some one'*s pole stuck, and the punter fell headlong into
the water. Crowds of eager spectators ran along the sand,
howling with excitement as their respective friends led the
others. And as for the boys, they ran along in the shallow
water, stopping every other moment to wrestle with a friend ;
they threw each other splashing into the lake, and danced on
the half-smothered victim as he endeavoured to keep his head
out of water.

They pelted each other with sand, and when a canoe
capsized, danced with delight and shouted derisively, not
exactly saying what the London cabby does to a broken-down
motor-car driver — " Take it home ! — but asking in an exas-
perating tone, " Why do you try to hide your faces in the
water ? You capsized the boat on purpose, because you were
behind. Whoo ! whoo ! whoo ! These sounds are tittered
in a long-drawn, derisive manner. Boys never jeer at older
people than themselves unless they see a certain way of escape
if pursued.

218

A NATIVE REGATTA

" You fellows know more about pushing porridge down
your throats than pushing a canoe ! The coloured cloth is in
front, not behind ! " This was addressed to the last boat^s
crew.

" Get out and carry the boat ; you will go quicker ! "

One of the men, stung by their reproaches, jumped out
and went for them ; but they were off like rabbits out of his
reach, and the next minute turning somersaults in the water,
or shaking hands at their success in drawing the man out of
the boat. They were perfect boys, full of mischief and fun.
An immense crowd gathered round as the first canoe was
sent dashing past the post, and the victors leaped overboard
with shouts of victory.

Swimming races, both under and on the surface, followed,
and I don't think I have ever joined with a happier, more
rollicking crowd of sportsmen.

The day's fun completely swept away suspicion from the
minds of the people and chief, as I hoped and intended it
should do. The girls, who received the pretty cloths from
their brothers, lovers, or husbands, paraded through the
village singing the praises of their champions, and as usual
composed impromptu choruses about the advent of the white
man who came to talk to the chief.

Dancing past my tent in the evening, clothed with the
pretty cloths, clapping their hands, and followed by a crowd
of young people, these dusky maidens sang : —

" To-day we throw ixway our skins "

(They had worn goat-skins),

To-day, to-day !

Our men have beaten every one,
To-day, to-day !

And now we beat the butterfly.
Our clothes are bluer than the lake.
The white man likes to see us laugh,
To-day, to-day ! "

219

A NATIVE REGATTA

How refreshingly sweet and simple ! Here was perfect
happiness and natural joy.

Next morning I met the chief, and when night came I
slept with the title-deeds to their country under my pillow.

'Tis surely better to build an empire on such foundations
than to write a transfer of land with the blood of its owners.

220

CHAPTER XIII

The People of the Tanganyika — A Cannibal — The Warundi
— A Conjurer — The Fauna of the Rusizi — Attacked by
Leopards — A Storm on the Lake — Swamped.

THE Wazigi tribe, amongst whom I was travelling
making treaties, occupied the extreme north-west of
the lake. Their chiefs were powerful and owned large
herds of cattle ; the people certainly showed themselves to
be full of activity and very courageous.

Whatever trade they carried on was done mostly with
the tribes who inhabited the eastern district, near to the
Albert Edward Nyanza, from whence they obtained great
quantities of ivory in exchange for hoes, salt, and gunpowder,
which the Arabs imported from the East Coast.

Near to them lived the Warundi, who physically were a
much finer race of men and women. It was their practice to
decorate themselves with elaborate tattoo marks, or patches
of red and white pigment. They are the real fishermen of
the lake, being expert with spear, net, and hook, and in
every respect perfect watermen. Their villages were composed
of small family groups who chose to live separated from the
great towns, where, they say, there is no peace, but too much
annoyance.

Food was abundant everywhere. Tobacco was to be seen
growing most luxuriantly in the dark loam at the base of
the hills. The Warundi being very powerful, none dared to
molest them, with the result that their gardens were both
large and well stocked, and the numerous grain stores, in
every village, testified to the general welfare of the community.

There can be no doubt that for the purposes of agriculture

221

THE PEOPLE OF THE TANGANYIKA

the north end of Tanganyika and Nyasa should be selected for
growing coffee, tobacco, and palm-oil.

The glossy skins of the cattle spoke eloquently of the rich
grass-land on which they were reared. Milk and sour cream
could be purchased for a trifle, and could even be had for
nothing in some of the towns where cattle were plentiful. As
for bananas, they rotted on the trees.

I was much impressed with the numerous markets held
every day in most of the principal villages. There being
no money, and very little calico, the common currency was
rings of iron wire twisted around a nucleus of stiff reed,
the value of which was determined by the fineness of the
wire. Ten of these rings would purchase about as much as
a yard of calico.

Native-made hoes were offered for sale in great numbers,
and transported westwards to the Mitamba forest dwarfs
in exchange for ivory. Their neighbours, the Watusi, were
purely breeders of cattle. The men were tall, slim, and
dignified, whilst the women were both graceful and pretty,
but extremely shy of strangers, not mixing freely with people
in the market-places, as at Ujiji and other towns.

The large pearl mussel was brought for sale, but was
not edible. The shell was coated on the inside with mother-
o'-pearl, so we inserted under the lip a small particle of
sand and replaced the bivalve in a protected corner of
the lake. In five months each mussel contained a small
pearl ; but several were attached to the shell and were value-
less. It proved that pearls could be produced in this manner,
but I think the mussel is too small to warrant any outlay of
capital on the enterprise. Whilst we were at anchor in a
small creek, a most hideous creature came and danced before
my tent. I found that previously he had been annoying the
boat's crew. His face was pitted from smallpox ; his eyes
were bloodshot ; all his upper teeth had been filed to a
point to enable him to tear raw meat. Cat-skins adorned

222

An Elabora'Ikly Carxed Pipe

The bowl is made of burnt clay. A woman is represented holding a bowl
on which her lord's pipe rests, typifying the servile position of woman.
Such pipes are very uncommon; none but chiefs or near relatives are allowed
to smoke them. Native tobacco when properly cured is fairly good.

Drying F'ishing Nets above the Sand

The sun makes the sand so hot that it burns the nets, therefore they are hung upon sticks. The cord
spun from a vegetable fibre ; it is untanned and therefore does not last long, but it is fairly strong.

A CANNIBAL

his body ; one leg was painted with red ochre, the other
with white kaolin. His hair was twisted into long curls,
which hung around his head ; from the ends of these curls
palm-oil was dripping on to his neck and back.

After a long series of disgusting evolutions and weird
shrieks, he rolled over on the ground, up to my feet, and
lay with his face near to the sand, handfuls of which he
was thrusting into his mouth and then ejecting. I was
sure this had some meaning, but his language being unknown
to me, I asked an interpreter what he wanted.

" Food, master," was the reply.

" Very well, give him some maize meal."

" He won't eat porridge ; he wants meat."

" All right ! I suppose he is mad ; give him some goat's
meat — there is plenty in the boat."

This was offered to him, but he refused, saying, " The
child of the lizard only eats live meat ! "

" Live meat ! What does he mean ? "

" He wants you to give him one of your boatmen ! "

The interpreter turned and pointed to the boat as he
said these words, and this beast sprang to his feet, poised
aloft his spear, making vigorous thrusts with it in the
direction of the vessel.

" Tell him I require all my men to fill the boat ; we don't
use them for filling hungry mouths."

This decision did not please him, for with a frown at
me he sneaked away into the bush; but I had him cleared
out of it before the sun went down, as I like neither sneak-
ing lion nor man. They cannot be trusted.

It transpired that he had walked over from Manyema,
and was not only a cannibal but a Mfiti, who was supposed
to disinter bodies and eat them. It was the first specimen
I had encountered, and certainly if there is a missing link
anywhere he would almost fulfil the necessary conditions;
for I have seen far saner and more intelligent apes than this

225

A BRAVE ACTION

half-man, half-beast who begged for live flesh to eat. To
the west, many of the tribes are known to be cannibals.

Like most of the northern tribes, the Warundi were clever
workers in iron, but could not show such fine workmanship
as the skilled men on the Zambezi.

One of these Warundi young men performed a brave
action whilst I was in port. Near to the boat, some youngsters
were bathing and having the usual game of hide-and-seek
under the water, when one was seized by a crocodile. The
lad's brother, who was standing on the shore, seeing his
brother in trouble, without the least hesitation leaped into
the water amongst the screaming boys and dealt the croc
a heavy blow on the nose with his axe. This made him
release the boy, who was promptly dragged on shore. Blood-
poisoning set in and he died, but I thought the brother had
made a most plucky attempt to save him, and calling him
the next day, I rewarded his bravery with a large packet
of salt. It was difficult to get him to understand why he
was receiving the present, because they never understand the
reason for a gift ; it seems to them so utterly ridiculous " to
give something for nothing," as they term it.

This attitude of most Africans cannot be too often
brought to the notice of young people who intend to work
amongst them. You can never win respect by presents;
they at once consider you deficient in intellect, or as having
some sinister motive which they are unable to understand,
and hence their suspicions are aroused. This is fatal, as their
confidence is extremely difficult to obtain afterwards.

The croc was shot as it tried to crawl into shallow water ;
the nose having been cut through, it could not go into
deep water. On opening its stomach we found a large piece
of white quartz about 4 lbs. in weight ; this, the natives
explained, was swallowed by the animal as ballast,'' to
enable it to lie on the bottom of the river. Strange to
relate, I shot another, years afterwards, on the Lake Nyasa,

226

A CONJURER

which had a similar lump of quartz in its stomach, and a
Swahili man gave me exactly the same explanation. The
latter piece of quartz was for years exhibited in the Govern-
ment Offices at Kotakota, covered with particles of otter
hair, showing that the crocodile had been swift enough to
catch that alert creature.

In the cool of the evening, after the excitement had
abated, we sat and discussed crocodiles and other dangerous
beasts; the conversation turning to a wonderful man who
could entice them out of the water whenever he pleased by
simply whistling. Having had an interesting exhibition of
this whistling power, I expressed doubts, when an Arab said,
" You doubt my words, do you ? Ill fetch him ! "

" I do not doubt there is a man who whistles," I replied ;
" but that he can make the crocodiles come at his call, I
think is too stupid for children, much more for men, to
believe."**

After a lot of fuss the interesting individual appeared.
He prated the usual rubbish about the moon not being on
its right side and the stars not yet awake, but seeing me
smile, he got to business and asked, " Will the white man
pay me for my services ? " Servant girl and gipsy came into
my mind, for the man actually repeated the old formula in
another language — "Will the sweet maiden cross my hand
with silver ?

" I am told you call to crocodiles in that lake and they
come on shore. If you can do that I will certainly pay.
Can you do as these people say ?

"Yes!"

" How many can you bring at one time ? "

" It all depends on the amount of calico I receive."

That I thought an exceedingly practical answer, and I
was not slow to close with his offer.

" Very well ! I will give you two yards of red twill for
the first croc which puts its head up, three yards for the

229

A CONJURER

second, four yards for the third, up to the tenth; after that
we must stop or there will be none left."'

" I agree to do so ; but you must first give me the calico,
so that I can go away and make medicine."

" No, you don't ! No crocs, no pay ! Understand ? "

He evidently did, for, entering a house, he beckoned me to
follow him.

I took the precaution of taking a boy with me, for I had
not forgotten that " Snakes lay on the path waiting for frogs.'"

" You don't need the boy, master ; he can wait outside."

" No, thanks ! he carries my tobacco and pipe."

On arriving inside the house we sat down. Fixing my
eyes on his, I said :

" Look here, my man, my skin is white, so is my father's ;
we are not quite such fools in our country as to believe in
all this rubbish. But in order to give you a fair chance, you
are to call only once for each croc : every time it refuses to
put its head out of the water, you pay me a sheep; every
time it answers you, I pay calico. That's fair, is it not ? "

Too fair for him. He was getting a lesson in profit and
loss; up to now it had been all gain.

Bending forward, he whispered :

" I cannot make them come out of the water."

" Then why do you cheat these people ? "

" Because they pay ; why should I not take it ? "

Why not ? I knew a similar game was at that moment
being pla3^ed north of the equator, by people whose skin was
white like my own ; so I closed the interview by going outside
to the Arabs and the crowd who had collected to see me pay
over the calico.

" I have stopped the man from bringing out the crocs,

because I am your guest, and it is polite to honour your

host. Every day I see you praying and hear you declare

there is but one God. Knowing this, I could not allow this

person to insult your religion."

230

A CONJURER

" In what way did he wish to do it ? " they asked.
" Let me explain. As the Creator made the croc as well
as the water in which it swims, no one but He could make it
come out, unless it had previously been tamed and recognised
its master''s voice. If this stranger to your crocs compelled
them to obey him, he must be a God. That would have
made two, and proved the Moslem religion to be wrong !
Don't you understand ?

Smiting their breasts in true Oriental fashion, they replied,
" Truly, truly ! we have sinned.

" Yes, you have ! This poor impostor has never heard of
any religion ; but you have, so that you are worse than he is."
" Let's kill him ! Shall we ? " they asked.
" No ! certainly not ; it would be unfair. He deceived you,
but you deceived yourselves by consenting to make him as
God. Sacrifice two fat sheep, and let their blood mingle
with the clear water of the lake, and be thankful we have
saved you from the consequences of so great a mistake. The
meat will be carefully removed from your midst by my sailors,
so that no remnant of the sacrifice shall be lost."

This was done, and from the expressions of pleasure on
the faces of my men I really believe a daily sacrifice of a
similar nature would have been appreciated by them. It
seemed advisable to make natives and Arabs pay for having
their eyes opened to all kinds of fraud.

On the morning of our departure I continued the lesson
by saying: "Don't forget, these conjurers are too clever to
work in the fields. They are lazy and prefer to deceive you ;
the hand is quicker than the eye."

" No ! no ! " they exclaimed. " Nothing is quicker than
the eye."

" Is it not ? " I retorted. " Til prove to you the hand
is, now, before we sail."

Taking out a needle from a box and passing it through
the skin of my first finger, I grasped it with the thumb, thus

231

FAUNA OF THE RUSIZI

partially hiding the needle, and taking hold of an Arab's
arm, I asked :

" Have you bones inside ? "

" Yes ! " he answered.

"Do you think I can pass this needle through your arm
without your feeling pain ? "

" Of course you cannot ; and besides, it would bleed ! "

Giving the needle an apparent blow by raising my hand
and bringing it quickly down on his, and instantly passing
it underneath, I produced the needle, after making exertions,
from the other side.

" Go away, master — go away ! You could send it through
our hearts."

" No, I could not ; it's all a deception, and only done to
prove to you the eye is slow, the hand quick."

When I showed them how it was done they laughed
heartily, and I don't think our visit was readily forgotten.

With this final adieu we entered the Rusizi River, which
was flowing into the lake at about two miles an hour. On
either side the plain stretched away to the base of the hills,
presenting abundant evidence that it was once covered by
the lake for many miles to the north. Numerous shallow
pools had been left by the receding water, in which grew just
sufficient reeds to afford a breeding ground for aquatic birds.
I do not think it is possible to witness such a collection of
wild-fowl anywhere in the world as could be seen on these
muddy flats. They flew about in thousands, and appeared
to be of every known African species.

Heavy spur-winged geese stood in great numbers in the
marshes, digging their long beaks into the mud for food.
The handsome Egyptian goose fought for tasty morsels with
white - breasted, black - backed geese, these latter being in
greater numbers than any other. Teal and widgeon were
untiring in their playful evolutions over our heads, probably
being curious to find out what our white painted boat was.

PICTURESQUE SCENERY

This was quite natural, as they had only seen canoes. Pelicans,
dreamily floating, looked more like a long streak of cream
on the water than heavy birds. Immense flocks of marabou
storks sailed in wide circles high overhead, giving a beautiful
display of their powers of easy aviation, almost to be envied.
The report of a rifle disturbed tens of thousands of birds of
all sizes, which rose in dense masses, blackening the sky as
they crossed each other at different altitudes in graceful
flight.

It was a breeding place, to which the birds came annually,
and one could scarcely imagine the number of eggs laid
amongst the reeds by the countless feathered host. For miles
up the river we enjoyed this lively spectacle ; but as a contrast
there were ever to be seen below the cruel crocodiles, which
splashed into the stream from every stretch of sandbank.

The upper portion of the river widened into what is known
as Lake Kiwa, and in this neighbourhood peaceful treaties
were made with all the most influential chiefs, including
Rusavia, who claimed to be paramount on both sides of
the river. The actual diplomatic work being accomplished,
I left the boat and camped up on the side of the mountains,
as sleeping amongst the myriads of insect life in the reeds
was quite out of the question. The air at this altitude was
bracing, but the sudden change of temperature gave several
of my men fever ; this is a very common result to hill people
who descend to the plains, or vice versa.

The view was very picturesque. To the right lay the
great lake, reflecting the rays of the setting sun ; on its surface
the fishermen's canoes appeared as tiny black dots near the
coast-line. The plain spread northwards far beyond our range
of vision, suggesting a greater Tanganyika, and one could
easily imagine it was once covered by one body of water,
which, at a higher level, may have joined the great Nile
system. The river could be easily traced winding through
green patches of papyrus, whilst at intervals small groups of

233

A FAIR REGION

villages nestled under isolated clumps of trees, taking advan-
tage of the protection they afforded from the burning noontide
heat, which radiated from the surrounding sand, causing pain
to the eyes. At our backs, and far above us, rose the hills,
covered with luxurious vegetation wherever the soil had not
been washed away by torrential rains.

Monkeys of various kinds sprang about amongst the tall
trees, indulging in gymnastic exercises on the strong creepers
which hung suspended from the high branches.

Green parrots kept up those constant, shrill, unpleasant
notes by which they are easily distinguished from all other
birds.

In the midst of such scenery, and suiTounded by these
myriads of creatures enjoying life in varied forms, far away
from the teeming cities of the world, is it any wonder that
when I dropped to sleep the first night on the hillside I was
almost afraid to think of treaties and empire, lest I should
picture this fair region cut up by roads, blackened by the
smoke of factories, and its golden sands, instead of being
habited by wild-fowl, covered with vast workshops in which
men and women might have to labour in close confinement,
and might possibly be compelled to demand that they should
not slave more than eight hours a day ?

The sleep was, however, not to be of long duration. It
seems well-nigh impossible to live out there at a moderate
pace. From dreamland one is plunged into tragedy. A
contemplation of nature under her most attractive aspect is
rudely swept aside by a sudden introduction of turmoil, pain,
death. Some unseen hand appears to be manipulating moving
pictures, over which you, as a spectator, possess no controlling
power. You are not consulted as to whether the change is
desirable or not. It comes ! goes ! for the moment obliterating
all preceding impressions, and it is only when, years afterwards,
one sits down, as I am now doing, to develop the negatives
which have been stored up in the brain, that one realises the

234

ATTACKED BY LEOPARDS

deep impression each passing phase of African experience has
left on one'*s life.

I closed my eyes with pleasant thoughts of life. In the air
it had all the previous day been manifested by those countless
wings of the wild-fowl ; in the forest by the bouncing monkeys
and swift-climbing lizards; in the evening by choruses of
insect calls which hushed me to sleep. It was life every-
where. Above ! around ! below ! On opening my eyes I was
in the presence of crying, suffering humanity, struggling to
escape death.

A few of my people had accompanied me to the village,
and not caring to cross the swamps at night to return to the
river, had obtained permission to sleep in the village. The
night air was warmed by the heat radiating from the sur-
rounding rocks, which had absorbed the sun^s rays during
the daytime, and thus the men were tempted to sleep in the
open air, not troubling to seek a hut, which would have been
readily placed at their disposal.

I was lying half awake about midnight, when a horrible

shouting and crying of" Chui ! Chui ! Bwana ! " (" Leopards !

thoroughly aroused me. These shrieks were mingled with the

ferocious snarls of two leopards as they attacked the men lying

around their fires. Snatching up a revolver, I rushed out, and

saw on the ground, locked in a close struggle, men and leopards.

The brutes were rolled over by the powerful men, sometimes

one, then the other, being uppermost. Blood was flowing

freely from the men''s legs, arms, and backs, where the sharp

claws had dug deep into the flesh, but up to that moment

they had succeeded in keeping the animals away from their

throats, which the leopard invariably seizes if he can. Both

animals were smeared with the blood of their victims, who

were rapidly tiring, and having been caught when half asleep,

were at a disadvantage, with no weapon of defence. It was

impossible to fire at so confused a mass of struggling men

and beasts without danger of hitting the men, so I discharged

235

ATTACKED BY LEOPARDS

several shots in the air to scare away the creatures. It had a
partial success, as they both turned to look in the direction of
the noise. This gave the men breathing time ; but the loss of
blood had left them but little strength to continue the unequal
battle, and certainly no chance of victory.

The report of firearms aroused the active hill-dwellers, who
rushed out of their huts, and as soon as they saw what was
taking place, without a moment's hesitation, charged down on
the leopards, plunging their broad-bladed spears into both
animals, almost cutting them to pieces. If the leopards had
seized the men's throats nothing could have saved their lives,
for with a few rapid strokes of their claws across the neck they
will sever the large arteries and drink the blood.

In this case it made little difference to two poor fellows,
who died the next day from exhaustion . One other had to be
left in the charge of the chief, and ultimately recovered from
his wounds. Such attacks from leopards are not common, as
they prefer to catch fowls and dogs and roam nightly through
most villages, occasionally killing a goat which may have been
tied up unprotected.

In the rice-growing district, women are sometimes killed
who go out alone very early in the morning to scare away
birds from the corn, or old women who wander carelessly into
the forest to gather firewood ; but, generally speaking, the
leopard is considered more as a nuisance than a dangerous
enemy. I was afraid the natives might raise all sorts of un-
pleasant questions about witchcraft, in which light the attack
was nearly certain to be considered, the leopard being the
favourite animal chosen as a temporary residence by their
ancestors and enemies, and certain live persons being believed
able to transform themselves at will into his shape for the
purposes of revenge.

No such unpleasant consequences followed, but we were
politely given to understand that they would prefer our room
to our company, so, as the south-east wind had subsided, I

236

SWAMPED

packed up and set sail for Ujiji, with the valuable treaties
safely sealed up in an iron case.

We were not to escape quite so easily with miles of terri-
tory; for, on rounding a cape, strong squalls of wind and rain
struck us, necessitating speedy reduction of sail. The cold
wind came rushing down those deep ravines which separate
the hills, and as it caught the cape, formed into a miniature
cyclone, catching the raindrops as they descended, and in a
few seconds forming them into a waving column of water. A
corresponding column was sucked up from the lake and met
in mid-air, completing a grand but dangerous waterspout,
which came racing after us accompanied by a tornado of
wind.

There was only one chance, and that was to cut across its
track and beach the boat; so, hoisting a reefed jib and double-
reefed mizzen, we eased oW the sheets and almost flew through
the water towards a clear strip of sand between two headlands.
It was the wildest, and at the same time grandest, spectacle
one could witness. The tiny white boat, made whiter by
contrast with the inky sky, flying like a seagull before the
wind. As the storm-centre swept towards us I blazed away
all the cartridges in the magazine of the Lee-Metford rifle,
hoping the vibration would disperse the concentrated force
which threatened our destruction ; but the reports were scarcely
audible, as a blinding sheet of flame, followed by a crash of
thunder, sent the dark column of water dashing to the lake's
surface in one wide sheet of foam.

At that instant an eddy caught us, tearing both sails to
ribbons, and blowing the boat over as if it had been a bubble.
She sank only a few yards from the shore, carrying with her
the precious title-deeds which had been procured by so much
labour and thought.

Wet, cold, hungry, and " down in the dumps,"' we crawled
that night under some grass for shelter to try to sleep and
dream of the bird-life, the frolicsome monkeys, the music of

237 N

SWAMPED

the insect choir, which seemed to belong to some other far-ofF
world we had read about in books ; whilst the great silver
sangala swam around our precious vessel, as it lay in silence
at the bottom of the lake, wondering what strange white
creature had descended from the regions above to disturb
their peaceful lives.

238

CHAPTER XIV

Salving the Boat — A Great Disappointment — Trouble with
THE Arabs — A Mischievous Monkey — An Act of Revenge

THE morning following our disaster revealed the lake like
a sea of glass ; not a ripple disturbed its surface. The
two masts of our boat stood out of the water, with a
small red flag hanging, as if in mourning over the silent wreck.
Speckled kingfishers stood on the masts, darting down every
few minutes into the water for their breakfast. That a wild
battle of the elements had taken place on this spot but a few
hours previously seemed well-nigh impossible. Fever, as I
expected, followed my somewhat sudden bath and a night's
sleep in wet underclothes.

The men rallied splendidly. A fire was soon kindled by
the usual native method of rapidly rotating one piece of wood
on another, and natives came down the valley bringing food,
accompanied by one of the crew who had been sent the previous
evening to search for villages. Our breakfast, of steaming
maize porridge and tomatoes, washed down with non-alcoholic
white beer, made from millet, was about the sweetest meal I
ever ate.

The crew dived and dragged on shore everything out of
the boat, including my precious tin box containing the treaties,
which were rolled up in long tin cases similar to those pur-
chased at Aden for the transport of ostrich feathers. This
precaution had saved them from destruction, and a day devoted
to drying them on the sand made the situation much less
discouraging.

It was in such awkward corners that my men seemed
at their best. Face to face with the hurricane and water-

239

SALVING THE BOAT

spout of yesterday they were like helpless, terror-stricken
children, and no wonder — for I was not particularly calm my-
self—but with this return to more normal conditions they
were invaluable. A hearty meal and several pinches of strong
snufF transformed them from miserable, desponding men to
boisterous children.

Stripping off what little clothing they wore, they dashed
into the lake, shouting : " We'll soon have the boat up, master.
You keep out of the water, and drink hot beer. It will
kill the fever.'"* This cheerful optimism was worth more than
all the quinine in the world to me at that moment, as I sat
shivering on the sand with ague, wrapped up in a dirty blue
cloth which one of them had lent me, whilst mine was drying
in the sun.

Crowds of natives joined in the salvage operations, the
boys especially thoroughly enjoying the fun of diving for small
articles. It was really a pleasant diversion to watch a youngster
rise with a saucepan, another with a kettle and — ^joy of joys —
my little briar pipe, which had been knocked out of my mouth
as I fell overboard.

The anchor and its chain were soon stretched out towards
the shore, and a pole inserted under the keel after the sand
had been scraped away. To the chain were attached strong
creepers, as thick as a man's wrist. These were passed to the
crowd of eager helpers, standing in shallow water, who ranged
up in line — a yelling, jolly crowd of darkies. A pull, enough
to snap a manilla cable, followed and the vegetable rope parted.
It was laughable to see the whole lot fall down splashing into
the lake, a confused heap of astonished, but humorous
creatures, determined to rescue the vessel for the white
stranger.

After repeated failures they were taught to apply their
strength with more reserve, and, to my intense joy, I saw the
boat move inch by inch towards the shore. Before noon the
gunwales were above the surface, and it was only the work of

240

SALVING THE BOAT

a few minutes to bale out the water and to see her once more
floating, but little the worse for the immersion. I think the
villagers were almost as pleased as ourselves; not one asked
for presents ; they seemed to take the whole thing as a matter
of course. To them it was a sunken canoe, which needed
pulling on shore. They, being fishermen, know the great diffi-
culty of cutting down a great tree high upon the mountains,
and the months of hard work that must be spent in chipping
out its centre with small axes ; therefore they took a keen
interest in saving our ship.

The day previously the Consul's envoy, whom I had sent
along the coast, had passed and left a present with the chief, so
we were known to be in the neighbourhood. But even taking
this into account, I could not help feeling that their valuable
assistance was really very much more than could reasonably be
expected of complete strangers, and that they might quite
naturally have demanded heavy payment before lifting a finger
to help us. It was impossible to give each a present ; so I had
four thirty-yard pieces of American calico stretched along the
sand, and the people ranged alongside it. To each a few
inches was allotted, and all appeared quite satisfied, if not
surprised, at getting anything at all. In order to thoroughly
arouse a spirit of fun, I placed a bag of wet salt on a rock
about fifty yards out in the lake, and making the young men
toe a mark, I pointed to the salt, saying : " There you are ;
go for it! Whoever gets to the rock first shall have the
salt.''

So we embarked and left them struggling, diving, shouting,
and tearing at the bag of salt, a scramble I guessed it best to
be out of, lest another appointment as referee should be thrust
upon me. We left them wishing for another shipwreck, or for
another scramble, at any rate, and hoping we should return.
Perhaps that is the best parting one can have from strange
tribes.

We picked up the envoy next day, and, after an uneventful

241

A GREAT DISAPPOINTMENT

journey, we arrived at the South End. The despatches were
sent off immediately ; but when they arrived in London, Europe
had ah-eady partitioned Africa into Spheres of Influence," and
by the international arrangement the much-coveted link in the
chain, which would have given us a clear Cape to Cairo route,
and which had been honestly signed over to me on behalf of
Great Britain, fell to the lot of Germany and the Congo State.
My keen disappointment may well be imagined by every true
Imperialist, and although the thanks of Lord Salisbury and
Consul Johnston were highly appreciated by me, they can
never compensate me for the abandonment of that small red
line, which was actually completed in a legitimate manner
during the exciting time I have described, and which I should
have been so proud to have seen drawn on the map of Africa.

From important international politics we must return to
local events, which were taking place around the lake. The
Arabs, having received no direct communication from the
Congo State officers who were attempting to close the road to
Manyema, and who had, as they considered, no right to the
country, collected their forces to oppose them. After numerous
minor skirmishes, a pitched battle was fought, resulting in the
defeat of the State troops. One officer was killed and partially
eaten by the cannibals, and the commanding officer had to
retire to his headquarters through lack of support.

Having business at Ujiji, I called on Rumaliza, who at
once informed me that hostilities had commenced on the west
coast of the Lake, explaining the situation thus : —

" You, and the other Europeans, arrived here with proper

introductions from the coast, which we always respected, and

never caused you trouble of any kind. These Belgian officers

came, and the first thing we hear about them is that they are

attacking our outposts and claiming the whole country. Not

one has visited us, or sent his flag, or had the courtesy to

approach us in any way. We do not know who sent them,

and cannot believe they came from a Government ; they must

242

TROUBLE WITH THE ARABS

be independent men, as Governments always instruct their
servants to enter first into negotiations with the rulers of
the country, even if they intend to fight. We received in-
formation that they were occupying the road between here
and our other trading centres, and had stopped all traffic in
ivory. Our head-men sent asking for instructions, and we told
them to defend our trade, but not to attack the white men
unless fired on by their troops.

"None of the Arabs have left here, for we did not think
it was a serious matter, as there were but two officers and a few
soldiers. But news reached us yesterday that a fight had taken
place, in which our people were victorious ; and we regret
to hear that one European was killed, and that some of the
Manyema, who, as you know, are cannibals, cooked and ate a
portion of his body. We cannot have people running about
this country with armed men attacking our soldiers, and as
they did not think it necessary to acknowledge our presence,
we on our part declined to put ourselves to the trouble of
crossing the lake to superintend the operations of our half-wild
followers. The Belgians have themselves to thank for all this
trouble. Do you know these men ?

I replied : " I am not acquainted with them ; but they are
certainly Belgian officers, sent out by the Congo State, and
are not adventurers, as you wish to suppose."

" Then why did they not come and bring their credentials,
and show their flag ? Are we to be treated as pagans ?

" I cannot tell you their reasons ; it is not my business to
know, but I can guess why they did not do so ! " i

" Why ? "

" Firstly, because you are in German territory in this
town. Secondly, they do not consider you the rulers of the
west coast. As an officer has been killed, you may expect
trouble; it is a great pity you did not send, or go to see
them, before fighting."

^ I believe it is the fact that Capt. Jacques did previously visit them.

243

TROUBLE WITH THE ARABS

" Will you go for us and tell the remaining officer how
sorry we are he has lost a comrade, and that, if he will come
here with you and bring his flag, we will listen with respect
to his instructions, although we cannot promise to accept his
demands."

I thought this quite fair, and consented ; but I added :
" If I go, you must send with me a responsible man, with power
to stop the fighting, whilst you talk ; and if he decides to come
here, you must swear you will protect him and permit him to
leave in safety. That is the custom in Europe, and I will not
go to him unless you swear."

" We swear by the tomb of Mohammed that we will
protect his life, and that he shall return alive with you to his
fort after our interview ! "

" No matter what he may say to you ? I asked.

" Yes ! words cannot make us break our oath."

I at once crossed the lake, and Captain Jacques paid me
a visit on the steamer. I told him the Arab's message, and
asked him to go back with me to Ujiji. This invitation he
politely declined, saying he could not trust them, and, more-
over, did not desire to hold any communication with them, as
they were not within the territory of the State. He appre-
ciated the sixteen days"* armistice I had arranged, as it gave
him time to visit his headquarters. His main contention was
that the Ujiji Arabs, being mere interlopers, had no right to
expect he would consult with them upon any matter concern-
ing the country. That, as an officer, his duty was to uphold
the honour of the State, ignoring the right of any one to
dispute their claim to the west coast.

All this was quite true from his point of view ; so also was
the opposite position as understood by the Arabs.

Both claimed the country, basing their respective claims
upon the principle that " might is right." It was no part of
my duty to take sides, however much I sympathised with the
agents of civilisation. Beyond attempting to persuade the

TROUBLE WITH THE ARABS

Arabs not to draw the sword against the Europeans, and
seeking to afford the State official an opportunity to deliver
his ultimatum, I took no part in the controversy.

It was a plucky thing for two isolated officers to step into
that disturbed arena, and, with altogether inadequate support,
to beard the lions in their stronghold. Criticism, just and
unjust, has been levelled at both Belgians and Arabs. The
trail of blood left by the Arabs I had witnessed, and
denounced both on public platforms in England and before
their faces in Africa.

The policy and administration of the Congo State officials
have, with equal severity, been criticised by my countrymen.
With this criticism I am not associated, either directly or
indirectly, having never travelled through their territory.
One thing is quite certain to all African pioneers — that the
State embraces some of the most savage and intractable
cannibal tribes, living in districts not easily accessible, many
of which are far removed from bases of operation. The work
of reducing such people to order would tax the abilities of the
most experienced agents of civilisation.

I hold no brief either for Congo State officials or Arabs,
but desire to speak of both as I found them, and repeat, that
those officials whom I met on Tanganyika, at close grip with
this great problem, were men of whom any country might be
proud, whose friendship I enjoyed, and whose brave deeds
filled me with admiration. On the other hand, I found the
wealthy Arabs courteous, sensible adventurers, so far as the
common rules of life are concerned, ever ready to assist white
men, and sometimes at great personal inconvenience to them-
selves; but their cruel trade in slaves made them appear
little else than fiends in the eyes of the native tribes, and
deserved the swift destruction finally meted out to them by
Europe.

Smarting under defeat by overwhelming forces. Captain

Jacques, like a brave soldier, had only one ambition, namely,

245

TROUBLE WITH THE ARABS

to cross swords again with his enemies, and turn defeat into
victory. With cheerful courage he unfolded his plans to me as
we steamed southwards. It was an inspiration to see his flash-
ing eyes, as he descrihed the late fight, and drew a picture of the
coming annihilation of Arab rule on the Congo. Beyond
the battlefield where his comrade fell he appeared to see
the crumpled-up forces of Islam, fleeing in every direction,
and the cannibal men-hunters of Manyema engaged in peaceful
pursuit under another ensign.

There was no looking backward, and as he impatiently
paced the deck, I felt I was watching a true soldier, eager
for the moment when he should be able to draw his sword
against the enemies of his country. As things happened,
he had not long to wait. A few hours'* steaming brought
us to his station, and we parted with the exchange of mutual
good wishes for the emancipation of the black race.

Meantime the Arabs were in possession. Long lines of
slaves continued to bring ivory to Ujiji from the west, but
there it had to remain, not a tusk could be sent to the east
coast. The Lakes Company, now the African Lakes Cor-
poration, were not yet in a position to divert the stream
via Nyasa, and the great merchant princes became desperate
at their enforced isolation from the markets. A spirit of
defiance of the white invasion spread southwards, and a
general rising against us seemed imminent. At every port
of call I found less courtesy, and distinct coolness, in the
welcome ofi'ered us.

Petty annoyances became frequent ; for instance, the price
of food was doubled. Huts for the sailors to sleep in
were either refused or lent with great reluctance. Fowls and
eggs could not be purchased. No one would accompany us
in search of game. All these were manifestations of the
under-current of feeling that was setting against us, and,
although no open acts of violence were attempted, it required
some patience to put up with these pin-pricks. Probably we

246

TROUBLE WITH THE ARABS

should have felt the same in their position, or even carried
our resentment beyond the stage of passive obstruction. I
have no doubt the general populace were kept in check by
the educated Arabs, who endeavoured to delay taking up
the gauntlet thrown down among them.

A sharp attack of ague compelled me to stay for two
weeks in harbour amongst the Wafipa, who were little more
than puppets in the hands of small, half-caste coast men,
who were strangers to us. They made our stay uncomfort-
able, and when reproved for not having such good manners
as the other Arabs, retorted by declaring that they owed
no allegiance to any one ; and certainly they took no trouble
to hide their displeasure at my presence. Fever made me
long for milk to make a cup of tea palatable, but not a
drop would they sell, although they had both cows'* and
goats' milk in abundance.

Lying beneath the shade of the trees, with a splitting
headache, I overheard the following conversation between
my personal servant and the head-man of the village :
" Why should we sell or give our milk to the white man ?
Is he not stealing our country and making us poor? Go
and tell your master to carry his own cattle about the
lake if he likes milk. Have you not heard of the lizard
which cried for the eagle? Did he get it? We do not
want his calico or beads ; we want him to clear out ! "

I was scarcely able to lift my head, much less to engage
in such an athletic exercise. My faithful boy, knowing how
ill I was, pleaded : It is not customary in our country, or
yours, to let a stranger's tongue remain dry in the village
when he is so sick as to be unable to walk to the water.
Master's cows are far away."

" No ! it is not," they answered. " Neither is it customary
for people to steal away other men's country ! Who called
these white men ? Have they greedy parents, or are
they so poor that they have no gardens to give to their

247

TROUBLE WITH THE ARABS

children, and no fish in their rivers, and so come here for
ours? Our women carry only their own children in the
skin-support at their backs; there is no room for strangers
who come, as you say, out of the salt water ! "

The little fellow replied : " I cannot tell you who called
the white men ; perhaps the same people who called your
masters, the Arabs."*"* (This was clever sarcasm, considering
that these scoundrels had not only taken the land, but
practically annihilated the owners.) " Master's tongue is
too dry to speak to-day, or he would tell you. I have heard
him talk to unkind and stupid people when he was well;
some of them listened to his words, some were ashamed
and left him alone. Would you like him to sleep here and
not wake up again ? We do not know what their spirits
do. Ours sometimes go into small leopards; but Tve heard
old men say that the spirits of white men only go into
lions, and lions give trouble ! Is it not safer to give master
milk than to give his spirit the blood of your children to
drink.? Because if he dies thirsty, the spirit may take long
drinks before its tongue is satisfied.*"

The lad was using some of those weapons he had so
often heard me call to our aid, only they were more beauti-
fully manipulated by him in his native tongue, and cannot
be so translated as to reveal the finest points. I mentally
thanked him for his thoughtful assistance.

The arguments produced a softening effect on the man,
who of course did not care a straw about my thirst, but was
afraid of that sneaking, thirsty lion-spirit which the boy
had pictured ; so he considered it best to propitiate mine
by sending a gourd full of delicious milk as soon as the
cows came home in the evening.

My servant had no idea I had overheard his kind en-
treaties, and simply placed the milk near me, asking : " Will
you drink it cold, or shall I put it on the fire.?""

" You had better boil it. These people are not very

248

HOW SICKNESS IS REGARDED

friendly, and besides, there are lots of little live creatures which
swim about in milk ; they might swim about in my stomach
and stop me from getting well. So boil it and kill them ! "

How zealously he carried out my instructions may be
gathered from the fact that I fell asleep, tired of waiting,
and the next morning the milk had not yet been brought.
Where is the milk, my son ? "

" You went to sleep, master, and I knew the fever was
going away. When I went back to the fire, the pot was
nearly red hot. I suppose the little things you said were
inside drank up all the milk, for the pot was empty ! "

I was too weak to burst into laughter, so I smiled,
saying :

" Never mind ! Perhaps they were more thirsty than I was.
Go and make some tea, and watch that no more little creatures
rob me of a drink."

As a rule these servants are inclined to keep away from
Europeans when they are ill, not altogether from a lack
of sympathy, but from a dread of being implicated in trouble,
which generally follows death amongst themselves. All kinds
of inquiries are made as to who attended the invalid. Who fed
him ? From what garden did the maize come which was used
to make his porridge ? Who kindled the fire in the hut ?
Who had quarrelled with him ? and so on.

Their first thought is : My relative has died through foul
play of some kind ; and they at once seek to fix the blame on
somebody, it does not much signify on whom. They believe
that death cannot come by natural causes, and this idea being
impressed on them from children, it is no easy task for them to
shake it off in later years. So, directly a European becomes
ill, his servants, in most cases, avoid his bedside as much as
possible ; this often gives a stranger the impression that black
men are callous, and do not care a pin whether their masters
are hungry or thirsty. I have had servants who, as in this
instance, were most thoughtful, but who invariably avoided

249

A MISCHIEVOUS MONKEY

staying near me when really serious illness threatened life.
There can be no doubt, however, that this boy simply went
away to his chums and forgot my milk. A few days'* rest
completed the cure, and we continued our voyage.

I had purchased a black monkey, and this imp of mischief
gave us no end of trouble on board. It was amusing to watch
him creep up alongside the stokers, as they came on deck for a
breath of fresh air, and throw overboard their towels directly
they laid them down on the deck. Had he confined himself to
these little pranks it would not have mattered ; but he threw
ropes overboard, and these, trailing behind, were immediately
caught by the propeller and jammed so tightly around the
boss that the engines were stopped, I jumped down into the
engine-room to see what was the matter, and of course could see
nothing wrong. Steam had to be reduced, and fires drawn,
whilst we searched for the trouble. Everything was in perfect
order, so I went on deck and looked over the stern, when the
cause of the trouble was seen trailing about the propeller in
long stretches of rope. It took our men hours to cut out
the hard rope, as it was under water.

A heavy south-east wind compelled us to shelter under the
Mbeti Cape, close to a large village. During the evening
an impromptu dance was arranged for our pleasure, in which
most of the married women and girls took part. They formed
themselves into a circle, and three men beat drums to keep
time for the several dances. Each girl in turn stepped into the
circle, danced a few graceful steps, and retired into her place.
One girl in particular excelled all the others, both in her
dancing and looks ; she was about fifteen years of age, her skin
was of a deep brown colour, and she looked a picture of health.
She was the life of the party, and from her all the other
dancers took their cue. At the conclusion of the entertainment
I gave the dancers small presents of blue beads, and to this
young mistress of the ceremonies a large necklace of white
beads, as a mark of my appreciation of her abilities.

250

Elaborately Carved Drums

These enter into most phases of native life, births, deaths, marriages, partings, and meetings.
Joy and sorrow are interpreted by these never-ceasing drums. They are tuned by warming at a
fire and sticking rubber on the centres. No man will play and no woman dance if the drum is
j?ut of tune. To deprive a village of its drums is to shut out the sun from an African community.

AN ACT OF REVENGE

I inquired if she was the chiefs daughter, and found
she was not. She had been betrothed to a man who had
subsequently taken a disease similar to leprosy just before
the marriage ceremony, and she had therefore been promised
to another. The long white necklace looked pretty as it
hung close to her perfect figure, and she was evidently
highly pleased by the gift ; for, about an hour afterwards, she
returned with some ripe bananas for my breakfast.

It appears that she afterwards went and slept in her
mother's hut. The man to whom she had been originally
betrothed — stung with disappointment at losing her, and
hearing she was to become the bride of another — left the
segregation camp and went to where she was sleeping. He
knocked at the door, which was cautiously opened by the
mother, and rushed in. Seizing the beautiful girl, he drew
his knife across her left breast — almost cutting it in halves.
He then slashed his own arm and rubbed his bleeding,
diseased wound into her opened bosom, so that the blood
might freely mingle together. The mother made desperate
efforts to save her daughter, but failed. As he left the hut,
he shouted : " I have had my bride. Whoever gets her will
get a thorn ; she is no longer sweet ; she will die diseased
as I am."

The poor girl was brought to me covered with blood,
her breast looking beyond the power of surgery, and the
sad story was told me by some of her friends while I searched
in my medicine-chest for bandages, needles, &c. The beauti-
ful white necklace I had so recently placed over her head
was stained red, and her piteous appeals to me : " Kill the
disease, master ! Kill it ! " almost unnerved me for a moment.

Washing my hands in a strong disinfectant, I cleansed
the wound with almost pure carbolic acid, which burnt the
surface white. Perhaps it was a little too strong, but this
was no time for half-measures. It had to be " kill or
cure." She was very brave as I stitched together the quiver-

253

AN rA«T OF REVENGE

ing flesh and endeavoured \o preserve to her the figure of
which she was so proud, and which means so much to an
African girl, who seldom wears clothes above the waist.
The pain from the carbolic must have been acute, and I
feared collapse, as she had lost much blood, so I injected
morphia into her arm to help her over the crisis. Before
sailing next morning I paid her a visit, and found the little
maiden very prostrate, but not suffering acute pain.

As I entered she turned towards me and asked : " Did you
kill the disease in my bosom? Will the scar alzvays show,
even if I escape the disease ?

Every one of my female readers will understand the
feelings of this girl in the bloom of life as she contemplated
the possible destruction of her beauty, which, in her country,
is seldom covered by wearing-apparel.

" I hope I have killed it," I replied. " Don't worry about
the scar. I will come again some day, if I can, to see you,
and you will then tell me how quickly the wound healed.""

" When ? " she eagerly asked. A strange earnestness was
in that interrogation. " When ? " I repeated ; and was about
to add "Why.?'' but I restrained myself. It was just as
impossible for me to answer her " When," as for her to have
answered my " Why," if I had asked her.

S54

CHAPTER XV

General Unrest — Storming Stockades — Rumaliza the
Slave-Trader

THE signs of general unrest, noticed amongst the people
on the east and west coast, were observable over the
south end of the lake, only here they were more pro-
nounced. On arrival we found the country in an uproar.
The Itawa Arabs were raiding westwards towards Moero
and eastwards towards Fipa. Their agents were everywhere,
trying to set the minds of the Awemba and others against us
by circulating false reports of our intentions.

It was becoming almost impossible to keep up mail com-
munication with Nyasa, as the people demanded exorbitant
rates of payment. Petty head-men assumed an independent
manner, whilst the paramount chief either withdrew into
solitude, or openly took sides with the Arabs, who did not
hesitate to remind them of the fate awaiting all who de-
serted to us. I cannot blame the natives, for the pistol was
at their heads. " Your money or your life ! " is a demand
not to be trifled with, if you have no powers of resistance.

The tribes for which we had done so much could not take
their stand with us, as we were powerless to protect them;
so they drifted away from our influence. A few, who resided
near, declared it impossible to remain unless we erected
stockades around the villages. In order to quiet their fears
this was done, the reason given to outsiders being that we
wished to sleep without being disturbed by lions or anything
else. Natives, when they have once fallen into a state of fear,

require a long time to calm down. They take no chances,

255 o

A FALSE ALARM

being always on the alert to scent danger, and ready at a
moment's notice to fly to arms, as the following incident
shows. We were sitting quietly one evening, having a chat
about the unfortunate condition of the country, when suddenly
our peace was transformed into a state of war ; guns were fired
in rapid succession, and bullets went whizzing through the air,
making one dip the head for fear of becoming a target for
a stray shot. Men rushed about in all directions, shouting,
"Awemba! Awemba! Vita Vita" ("War! war! from the
Awemba"). Women snatched up their young children and
bolted into our houses. Boys cleared out of the opposite side
of the stockade, jumped into canoes, and paddled out on the
lake to safe distances.

My companion, who had been dining with us, looked at
me, but did not speak. I understood his questioning glance,
and replied : " Yes ! Carson, it seems as if the much-talked-of
Awemba have at last arrived. You had better get your rifles ;
we may need them.''

Are they in the village ? " asked my wife, as she rolled
up our baby in a shawl ready for emergencies.

" I have no idea ; but if they are, I should imagine, from
the number of shots fired by our men, they are blown to
pieces. Sit still whilst I go out and see, and don't go out ! "

Slipping around the house with revolver, rifle, and bugle
(used to call the workmen), I ran up to where most of the
men were blazing through the stockade, and saw at a glance
that if there were enemies, they were outside. It was impos-
sible to make one's voice heard, so I blew a few weird notes on
the bugle, which at once steadied the men. Each, half-crazy,
turned towards me, shouting, " Awemba, Awemba ! master."

" Very well, lie down, unless you want to be speared."

It was the only way to calm them ; they at once took the
hint, and had time to breathe. On going up close to the
stockade, I saw outside four prostrate men, and at first
thought they were slain enemies; but my eye caught sight

256

Head-dress of Aemba Girl

This head-dress is usually worn by warriors. It is tied by a string to the back part ot the head.
A piece of ivory is suspended from her neck attached to a string of beads. Her tribal marks may
be seen on the forehead and side of the fac3. She looks stern while facing the camera, but in daily
»l4fe she is full of fun.

AN INSOLENT MESSAGE

of a mail-bag lying beside them. They were our own mail
men. I shouted to the terror-stricken creatures, " Get up !
the war is over."

They had had indeed a narrow escape from being blown
to pieces. " We came in late," they said, " on account of
the heavy rain, and on approaching the hammers of our guns
fell, discharging the bullets. Immediately all your people
commenced firing at us, so we lay down under the poles.""
This will show to what a pitch of excitement the natives
had been worked up by the disturbing reports which were
freely circulated.

The next move made against us was by small parties of
men who would hide near the roadside and frighten our
people, so that they could not travel from village to village.
This was followed by their sweeping down at night and
stealing the standing crops ; so that not only inconvenience
was caused by the roads being blocked, but starvation was
imminent if we were deprived of our harvest. It was not
the Alungu themselves who harassed us with these annoy-
ances, but the half- Arab retainers and domestic slaves. The
African Lakes Corporation were as much hampered as our-
selves, suffering considerable loss by the stoppage of all trade.

We sent messengers to the worst offender, Kakungu, who
lived on the eastern shore of the lake, and told him we could
not understand these repeated insults from his people, and
requested him to see that they ceased. Our messengers were
not molested, but told to go back and tell the white men to
" Sazia Kiongo ! " (" Shut up ! ") This unpleasant command
was practically an ultimatum, but we did not desire to under-
stand it as such, our work being to promote peace, not war.
You can have peace, however, at too high a price, no matter
whom you represent ; for there comes a time when not to pro-
tect one's dependants against aggression may end in having
nothing left to protect.

The reader will bear in mind that we were but five white

259

AN ACT OF WAR

men, beyond all reach of assistance, and responsible for the
natives who had thrown in their lot with us. Our patience
under repeated insults was interpreted by them as fear, or
lack of power to protect them. In order to exhaust every
resource of civilisation, we sent out armed parties to protect
the women as they gathered in the corn ; but these escorts were
repeatedly fired on, until at last they refused point-blank to go,
saying: "This kind of thing will go on all through the year,
and we shall be killed one by one ; we must either fight or be
killed.^'

Kakungu sent me the treaty Johnston had signed, with
the message : " Keep it ; you have broken your pledge. I
signed away our country to the white man in exchange for
protection from my enemies, but you have done nothing to
protect me. I am repeatedly attacked, and you let them eat
me up. If you want your flag back, come and take it ! If you
and the Balozi (Consul) come here again, we'll spear both of
you for telling lies." I remembered Johnston's words when I
told him he had left flags and no one to protect them. "You
need not anticipate serious trouble, annoyance perhaps, because
you cannot defend the people." The sequel to that treaty-
making was now known.

The return of the treaty meant open war. The same
week they caught one of our old women in the fields, cut off
both her ears and her nose, and slit the corners of her mouth
so that the skin fell over her chin and hung down on her
neck. The right hand was almost severed. In that condition
she was sent back to us with disgusting messages and threats
to the ef^ect that all our people whom they caught would be
similarly dealt with. The poor old soul walked home in this
condition. We did our best, but the inflamed mouth prevented
her eating very much, and the general shock was too great
for her strength. She died eleven days afterwards.

This brought matters to a climax, and we decided to end
it. Though representing Missionary Society directors and

260

PREPARING FOR THE ATTACK

philanthropic merchants, we had to accept this " white man's
burden" whether we liked it or not. Sentiment had to give
place to " duty to man,'' and in this case that was equivalent
to " duty to God," if it meant " Do unto others as we would
be done unto." We could not leave our dependants to be
murdered. So, joining forces with the Lakes Company, we
marched into this den of brutes.

It was our desire to deal them a smashing blow, to end
the business by one sudden, sweeping stroke, so as to prevent
a long, guerilla-like struggle. Two Europeans went with the
land force, two with the boats. I was to demonstrate from
the lake, in order to draw the enemy out from their stockades,
thus permitting the land forces to rush in and occupy the
villages, situated about a quarter of a mile up a river which
flowed through them. They were strongly fortified by a deep
trench ; earth was plastered up the sloping sides nearly to the
top of the poles, on which thick thorns had been placed. To
get at the stockade, the ditch had to be crossed and the
smooth sides of the earth embankment scaled. When that
was done, it was impossible to get in without climbing over
the thorns. These particulars had been ascertained during
the previous visits.

We bound oakum dipped in turpentine around arrow-heads,
to set fire to the grass huts in case of failure to take the place
by storm.

Arriving at the arranged time, we found that the natives
had discovered the approach of the lake division. They
danced along the sand, calling us all kinds of filthy names,
and defied us to come on shore. In order to keep up the
diversion, we moved slowly along the bay, firing an occasional
shot over their heads ; this made them more bold, and drew
them away from the forts, which was our object. The glitter-
ing spears of the land force could be seen coming over the
hills at the back of the villages ; but, instead of at once rush-
ing into the stockade, then undefended, they came down to

261

STORMING STOCKADES

the shore to drink. Of course this gave the enemy time to
get back home, and our ruse was spoiled.

When we landed and asked our companions why they had
lost such a chance, they said the people refused to fight before
quenching their thirst. This was most annoying, and victory
was now quite an open question.

It served no purpose to stand still and grumble; our
natives must be kept moving in work of this kind, otherwise
they would bolt. So we divided our force into four companies,
and crept up under cover of the maize gardens, telling our men
to fire a volley at the earthworks, and then to lie down.

The defenders would be sure to empty all their guns and
bows, and then we were to rush the trench, get under the
embankment, and set fire to the huts.

We volleyed, as arranged, and rushed the trench, climbing
with difficulty the slanting earth bank, in which we had to
cut holes for foothold. Several ineffectual attempts to scale
the thorns failed. As I thrust my rifle through the poles,
some one from the inside jammed his gun on the top of mine
and fired. I was just out of line, but the flash scorched my
right ear. This kind of give and take continued for some
time, and we were making no progress, when I heard our
people shout, " A white man has been shot." " Never
mind," I replied ; " mind you don't get a similar dose. Give
me those arrows, a small bow, and matches."

In an instant I had an arrow strung, and setting alight
the prepared oakum, I gently fired it into the thatch of a hut
which was quite near me. The grass caught at once, and
though I could not see any one I kept up a rapid fire into
space, to scare away any who might attempt to put out the
fire. In a few seconds it was well alight, and jumping down
into the trench, I ordered my party back under cover of the
maize. I knew the place was ours.

James Yule, the well-known African pioneer and hunter,
had also set on fire his section.

262

I

STORMING STOCKADES

"Shout ' Hippuray,' " I said. (It is a corruption of our
Hip-hip-hurrah.) They shouted as one man, and the defenders
must have thought it was all over, for this, coupled with the
burning village, made them conclude we were inside. We
were not ; no one had got in up to that moment ; but soon
after Yule bundled his men over, and they ran and unfastened
the gate. We rushed through it, and saw the enemy retreat-
ing across the river, away from the flames and smoke. So
much the better for us ; but there remained the river to cross
and No. 2 stockade to storm ; the battle was by no means
won. We saw this, and giving the enemy no time to barri-
cade the doorway, we poured a heavy fire on it. No one
dared to stop in its neighbourhood ; no one wanted to,
apparently, for they rushed right through the village and
out on the other side.

Yule and I and our men were soon through that stream,
up the opposite slope and through the gateway, surrounded
by a howling crowd of followers, who found nothing more
dangerous to hunt than fowls and pigeons. It was the chiefs
village, over which was flying the very British ensign given
him by Johnston and myself when the treaty was signed.
Ivory lay by the side of the staff'; they had had no time to
carry it away, for our movements were too rapid.

" You take the ivory, Yule, and Fll go for this flag which
those brutes invited me to come for."

" I guess they never dreamed we should lower it in all this
smoke," he replied, as I hauled down our national flag. We
had saved it from being lowered in disgrace. We saw the
people creeping up the rocky hills, and only a few of the
more daring ventured to linger to send among us a few parting
shots. " Shall we go after them ? " our men asked.

" No ! let them go, and a good riddance. We did not
come here to kill them, but to save you and your families.
Understand ? "

" Yes, master ; they will never interfere with us again ;

265

STORMING STOCKADES

we shall lose no more children, now these slave-raiders are
defeated. We have burned down the tree in which the bees
had their home.''

This illustration was taken from their habit of burning
out bees to get at the honey, and it proved a true one, for
when that flag of Great Britain came down, lowered by two
of her sons, it marked the complete destruction of slavery
in our sphere of influence at South Tanganyika. The charred
remains of that hotbed of cruelty and oppression have been
cleared away, and to-day the empires of Britain and Germany
meet and keep guard over those Africans. Separated by that
little river, which we crossed under fire in our victorious attack
on the last stronghold of oppression, these two mighty empires
vie with each other in upholding all those great principles
which were embodied in the treaty signed by Johnston,
Kakungu, and myself before the storm-cloud burst.

I doubt if either Yule or myself realised, in the heat of
conflict and the joy of victory, the significance of those clouds
of smoke which drove us out of the villages, or knew that
our work was accomplished when the sun set on that day
of conflict, which must ever remain in the records of that
country as a red-letter day, the day of freedom.

" Where are Law and Moore, Yule ? " I asked.

"Law was struck by an arrow early in the attack, and
Moore carried him to the vessel ; let's go and see how he is."

We found him stretched on a couch, very pale, and scarcely
able to speak. An irritating cough made the blood flow from
a nasty wound about an inch above the heart. It appeared
that he had issued from the maize gardens right opposite the
village gate, and wishing to blow it down, had fired at it
with his heavy elephant rifle. As he did so, he saw a native
draw his bow and let fly an arrow through the chink between
the door and the post. It struck him fairly in the chest,
and the force of it, added to the recoil of the heavy rifle,
knocked him down ; and in falling he twisted the arrow,

266

Ga 1 lll,);iN(., 1 loM. \

The honey-bird invariably leads the hunter to either honey or game. Holes are cut below'the
bees' nest and fire applied ; the honey is then extracted from the hole through which the bees
enter. If very hungry the natives do not always wait to apply fire. The legend is that bees
once stung the young of a honey-hird to death, and that in this manner the birds are taking
their revenge.

STORMING STOCKADES

making the wound more severe than it might otherwise have
been. He pulled the arrow out and fainted. I washed and
dried the wound, applying a disinfectant for fear of vegetable
poison, painted some wool with collodion, laid it on the wound,
and covered it up with some thick porridge to check excessive
bleeding. A sleeping-draught kept him quiet and stopped
the cough.

We sailed all night, reaching our doctor next morning,
who found that the lung was not injured, and that the heart
had been missed by the fraction of an inch. In a month or
two he recovered, but it was a near thing. A few years after-
wards, whilst swimming in a small lake, not far from his
station, after a duck he had shot, he suddenly sank and was
drowned. I often wondered whether his sudden collapse was
in any way due to the results of this serious wound.

Moore contracted dysentery, probably from over-fatigue,
bad water, and bad food, and died soon after the fight.
James Yule, whose energy, pluck, and daring were an inspira-
tion to us all, is still alive, and dwelling at no great distance
from the scenes of action I have just described.

The chief, Kakungu, was afterwards captured, and died
in exile near Lake Nyasa, and his fiendish followers were
scattered. The news of his crushing defeat spread swiftly
all over the country, making sundry other petty ruffians escape
hastily to other climes, whilst all those who had been sitting
on the fence jumped down on our side. Trade revived, as
it was now no longer dangerous to travel. Schools were
established, workshops erected in several districts, and en-
couragement given to thrift, as the people now felt that
whatever they accumulated in the shape of goats, sheep, or
cattle would be safe from pillage.

Being now anxious to hear how matters were going between
the Congo State and the Arabs, I made a flying visit to Ujiji,
taking my wife and child. We found the place in a state of
excitement, owing to the serious illness of Rumaliza''s principal

269

RUMALIZA THE SLAVE-TRADER

wife, who had ahvays been extremely kind to my wife; so
we sent her messages of sympathy and inquiry, begging to
be excused from visiting her whilst she was so ill. We were
afraid of inconveniencing Rumaliza, as harem rules are very
strict. In reply to this, Rumaliza sent an urgent message
saying, " Come at once ; we wish to see you."'"'

It was perhaps somewhat risky to put this man's friend-
ship to such a test in what might prove an hour of bereave-
ment, for she was his first lawful wife and mother of his
eldest son. He was also then at war with Europeans ;
although that was not our business.

We were received with every mark of courtesy, given
comfortable quarters, attendants, and food. My wife went
at once to the sick woman, while I remained talking to her
husband, who described her serious illness. "Can you cure
this?'' he asked.

" I cannot, Rumaliza ; I am not a doctor, and cannot
venture to have anything to do with it. Only an experienced
man dare interfere in such serious cases."

" Will you see her ? "

" Certainly, if you wish it ; but don't ask me in her
presence to cure her."

I found my wife sitting beside her, and one glance showed
me that the poor woman had not long to live. She beckoned
to me, and as I bent over to hear her words, she whispered,
" Sew up the wound, sew it up, that I may live to see my
children again." Rumaliza heard those words, "that I
may live to see my children." I wondered if he heard the
voices of those tens of thousands of mothers away yonder
at the coast, whom he had separated from their children,
crying and wailing in their grief. I did if he did not. " Try
and sleep, Bibi" (lady); "it is late now — we will come in the
morning," I replied.

" Will this child of mine " (pointing to my wife) " come and
sit with me ? She is so far away from her own mother."

270

RUMALIZA THE SLAVE-TRADER

" Yes, she will gladly come, and bathe your face and
hands. Good-night ! "

As soon as we were outside, Rumaliza asked: "Tell me
the truth ! Is she dangerously ill ? "

"Yes, she is, and so far as I can judge by her weak
pulse, she cannot live long. I would do anything to save
her, if only in return for your having saved us, but it is
beyond our power.""

"I know you would," he replied. "Go and rest; you
are both safe here, with your child, no matter what happens."'

Early next morning prostrate women lay all over the
courtyard, wailing bitterly and crying, " Mama, Bibi, Mama,''
and we knew the great head of this opulent household was
gone; for she reigned supreme in her home.

We also knew that however cruel this man had been
in his wholesale dealings with pagans — as he called them —
he could sulfer from those human sorrows which do not afflict
the tender-hearted alone.

The body of this Arab woman, who had never been
allowed to step on to the public verandah of her lord and
master when alive, was now strapped under her bedstead,
covered with calico, and placed in the centre of it. The
apparently empty bed was, I thought, very touching indeed.
It was laid on the place of honour, the highest mark of
public respect her lord could pay his wife.

We were invited to be present at the funeral, special
praying-mats being placed near the grave for our use. All
his relatives approached the bedstead and kissed the valance
with which it was draped, as a sign that there was nothing
but affection towards her in their hearts when she died.
Rumaliza came last and alone. As he approached the
verandah he removed his sandals, according to the usual
custom. All his relatives bent low, with their hands crossed
on their breasts, as the master quietly placed his sandals
and her fan on the bed. As he did so, I noticed tears run

271

RUMALIZA THE SLAVE TRADER

down the great slaver's face. Yes, Rumaliza The one who
utterly finishes'") was made to shed tears when his home
was entered by the Finisher of life, which had reaped so
many harvests in his hideous raids.

What is the meaning of placing those sandals and fan
on the bed?" I asked.

"It was an expression of his intention to join her in
the other life. They were the sandals he wore only in her
private room, and by burying them with her he tells his
household it is his command that no other woman must
occupy that portion of the house, and that he will never walk
there again."

We left the town soon afterwards, as the incessant cries
of the women made us miserable. In four days we were at
home, listening to the voices of black children as they sang
hymns over our third little mound in Africa. Bronchitis had
seized our only remaining child, and before we realised that he
was ill he was gone.

"You will go away now you have lost your son,"' said
an old woman who had attended him.

" We shall go away when our work is finished and you
are free," I replied. "Our boy is not lost; we shall see
him again."

" How do you know ? " she eagerly asked.

Did she feel unsatisfied with her own vague beliefs, and,
like most of us, wish to know the unknown ? Knowledge
instead of faith !

As the great political climax drew near, events seemed to
rush on with perplexing rapidity. An urgent letter from
Rumaliza took me again to Ujiji, and for the last time. I
was accompanied by a trader who wished to purchase ivory.
" Buy our ivory ! sell us the steamer ; we will give it to these
traders if they will only take our ivory." These appeals were
made to me by Rumaliza on landing.

" No," I replied, " I never have, and never will trade ; you

272

RUMALIZA THE SLAVE-TRADER

know that. Sell to this man, if you like; iVs his business.
I am leaving Tanganyika for ever. You are fighting the
Congo State ; I have always told you it was a mistake, and
you will be crushed, but you have not taken my advice.
Tip-pu-Tib was wiser — he left. You have always been my
friend, and the least return I can make is to try and save you
from yourself, as I have tried to rescue the natives from your
cruel trade. My mouth has never been filled with honey when
speaking to you in this land. It w^as not my work to fight
against you with powder and shot, but I and my comrades
have never ceased to do so by every other means in our power.
We have just returned from using force against some who
attacked us, and have swept British Tanganyika clean. Other
nations will soon do the same here and on the Congo. Will
you take my last advice and stop your work ? "

"I cannot," he replied; "all my wealth and people are in
this country.''

It was a fatal decision for him. He had pronounced his
own doom, and the salvation of Central Africans.

Very well, I have finished ; sell your ivory to this man.
It's nothing to me."

Cannot you put the British flag over all the lake ? " he
asked.

No, I cannot. Years ago we hoisted it in this town, and
you tore it down ; and besides, look at that ! "

Here I pointed up to the German flag, which Emin Pasha
had sent him long since.

" Good-bye, Rumaliza, good-bye ! thank you for all the
protection you have given to me and mine. I have begged
you to extend it to these poor Africans, and you refuse. We
must now part ; and turning to the flagstaff, I saluted the
Kaiser's ensign, and left the historic place where that daring
pioneer Stanley — sent out, to their honour, by our American
cousins — met David Livingstone.

Rumaliza fought for, and lost, the Congo. He was crushed,

273

RUMALIZA THE SLAVE-TRADER

together with all the vile hordes which for so many years had
struck terror into the hearts of Africans. Civilisation had
triumphed. Nations whose mottoes were Freedom, Justice,
and Protection had planted their standards around the great
lake.

A few days later we were marching homewards. At the top
of the plateau, I turned round to take a long last look at the great
Tanganyika before it was hidden by the trees. A panorama
of the past eleven years unfolded itself to my mind's eye. Its
weary work, disappointment, and failures were vividly remem-
bered, but it had been a life worth living. I could hear again
the sailor's cheery " So long " at Zanzibar. I could see again
the boat journey, the dying slaves, the maiden leaping from
the cliff, the midnight conferences with Arabs, and the final
rush through water and smoke to capture a British flag for
Britain. A part of the great equatorial tragedy of chaos
and death was finished. The little rain-cloud seen in the
distance by Tip-pu-Tib had covered the sky and burst.

Our attempts to do something to help our country to take
up its share of the " white man's burden " were rewarded by the
sight of a little red ensign which we could see waving an adieu
to us from a flagstaff on the lake shore.

Turning to my wife, I said, " Let's go, and thank God it's
British territory.''

" Yes," she replied, " it is — hut some of it is ours!''''

Did she mean that

We were unwilling owners of land,

With two small claims pegged out on the veldt,

And another marked in the sand ?

274

CHAPTER XVI

The Potentialities of the African — Suppression of Raiding —
Children's Games — Analysing the Native Character

1MUST leave to others the task of recording the work
done on Tanganyika by ordained missionaries. Their
educational and industrial successes were by no means
small, but there are so many debatable problems associated
with all African mission work, and they need such careful
study, that it would be impossible to find room in these
pages for the discussion of so large a subject — even if I felt
more competent to deal with it.

I will set down my ideas on the educational question only ;
and perhaps the simplest and briefest manner in which I can
do this is to record a conversation which passed between me
and a supporter of missions whom I met in England.

He asked : *' Can you put down in black and white the
educational results obtained on the lake by the London
Missionary Society's representatives, both lay and ordained ?

I happened to have with me a letter received that week
from a native boy, formerly a slave. It was just an ordinary
note containing hews of the country generally, and of his
village and relations in particular. There was nothing of
the "goody-goody" style about it — just a boy's chat to his
old master. Perhaps the most important item to the writer
of the letter was that he had redeemed from slavery his
own sister. He himself had been redeemed by a white
man.

I handed this to my friend, saying, " No, I cannot ! but
see, an African lad has made a shot at it. Read what he
says, and calculate the total results."

275

POTENTIALITIES OF THE AFRICAN

" I cannot, for I do not understand the language,"" he replied.

" Exactly ! that is the boy's answer to your question about
results. Your education, in this particular, is not complete;
the results, nil. You do not know what he means to convey
to you on that sheet of paper, being ignorant of his language ;
he might as well have written in ancient hieroglyphics. At
the time your representatives went to Tanganyika, that boy
had no idea he could express himself in any other manner
than by his voice. Had you told him you could put his
thoughts on paper and send them over the lake to his sister,
most probably he would have pretended to believe you when
in your presence, for the sake of enjoying some fun at your
expense with his chums around the camp-fire.

" Do not the mighty intellects which rule the world to-day
owe all they know to the alphabet ? That boy is on the same
track that was trodden by our great men — by a Simpson sooth-
ing the agony of millions ; a Tyndall searching out the secrets
of the elements ; a Herschell tracing the orbit of a distant
planet; a Shakespeare, a Milton, and a host of intellectual
giants of all nations. A, B, C and 1, 2, 3 were their first
stepping-stones. The writer of that letter is on the same
road ! Can you tell me what will be the results of his upward
march ? Will he overtake and pass the man who is analysing
the sunbeam, continue his journey until he finds the ' Power
which rolls the stars along,** that Power of whom Christianity
tells us, conveying its Scriptural teachings through the alphabet!
If you can put the possible results in black and white, it is
more than I have time to attempt ! "

My questioner returned me the letter, saying :

" I see your point ; you are satisfied to have put his foot
on the letter A !

" That's it ! He is on the rails ! Feed him with fuel, and
the actual mileage he will travel can only be recorded on the
dial of history, when you and I are forgotten. Pull the
wrong lever, and the engine runs backwards!"

276

SUPPRESSION OF RAIDING

" Yes," he said, " you are right ; we must not add up the
sum to-day."

When we turned our backs on the lake we left many
feet on the letter A, and the knowledge helped to make our
journey to Nyasaland more pleasant.

But the transformation scene at Lake Nyasa was very
painful to witness. I looked in vain for those miles of
banana groves, and clean-swept villages, which we noticed
on our former journey. Where were the crowds of athletic
warriors whom we saw trot down to bathe and engai^e in
mimic warfare on the sand ? All gone ! Not a trace of the
former beauty remained ! It looked as if a whole tribe had
been wiped off the face of the earth, and in an hour's talk
with Fotheringham, the brave defender of the Wankonde, we
learnt the whole miserable story.

The half-caste Arabs had fallen on the tribe, giving no
quarter. Village after village was burned, the fugitives hunted
out of the hills and driven into a lagoon amongst the reeds,
which were then set on fire. There was no escape, for the
flames spared none but those who preferred to leap into the
jaws of the crocodiles, and those who endeavoured to escape
both were shot down by the brutes on the banks. Practically
a whole division of the tribe was annihilated, and what was
once the garden of Nyasaland became the most desolate spot
imaginable. Fotheringham and a few brave fellows were
besieged, but refused to capitulate ; they fought desperately,
repelling repeated attacks. Smallpox broke out, and the
diseases caused by bad sanitation, privation, &c. ; but, nothing
daunted, the little band held their own, finally making a
successful sortie, and escaping to a more favourable position to
renew the attack. A long and desperate struggle followed,
during which many brave actions were performed ; but the
white men were gradually getting the upper hand, when
Consul Johnston arrived and made a temporary peace. This
was only the usual calm before the storm.

SUPPRESSION OF RAIDING

I inquired what became of the old medicine-man whom
I had visited in the hills, and whom I last saw disappearing
around the rock near to the deadly spear which hung over the
path, and was told that the Arabs hated him for making
medicine against them. They surrounded his rocky retreat,
and forced him to capitulate through hunger. The poor
wretch was tied to some very light pith-wood trees, used by
fishermen as buoys for their traps ; the raft was then placed
on the lagoon, with fresh-cut goat's-meat to attract the crocs.
His tormentors sat on the bank, watching the crocs fight
for his body. This being firmly lashed, the creatures could
only snap at him ; the buoyant wood prevented them from
carrying him under water. It is said they tore him to pieces,
and one can imagine what torture he must have suffered as he
lay helplessly looking at the green-eyed monsters swimming
around the raft and trying to get a favourable opportunity of
biting off a limb. When he was nearly torn to pieces the Arabs
amused themselves, as they sat, by firing at the crocodiles.

As I listened to the gruesome story I could not help
forgiving him for what he had plotted against me, and would
have brought about if that spear had descended and transfixed
me to the path.

Before the month ended I met Johnston as he was re-
turning to grapple with Nyasaland problems, and accepted his
invitation to come back, if possible, and help to solve them.

A few months' rest in England quickly passed, during which
I resigned my position under the London Missionary Society ;
and for the third time I landed in Africa to get to grips with.
the Arabs, this time through the Zambezi gateway, and as a
Government official.

The Cape to Cairo telegraph line was fast creeping up
through the country; a wild dream it w^as then called, but
science moved so rapidly that ere it reached Tanganyika it
was out of date and wireless telegraphy had taken the field.

278

SUPPRESSION OF RAIDING

A handful of traders had elected to try their fortunes
in the Shire Highlands. The prospect looked encouraging
on paper. Coffee was selling at ^112 per ton. Land was
cheap and plentiful. Big game abounded. Powerful missions
had been established by the universities and by the Established
and Free Churches of Scotland, but the slave-trade was very
much in evidence.

The country itself was difficult of approach, being entirely
cut off from the seacoast by Portuguese territory. The Zambezi
and Shire Rivers alone gave access to the interior, both of them
being hardly navigable during the dry season.

Johnston's task was to establish responsible government as
economically as possible. For financial reasons it was out of
the question to smash with one blow all opponents to progress.
The operations had to be carried out piecemeal, the puzzle
worked out with patience.

There were powerful philanthropical interests to be studied,
for these had already done much towards the uplifting of the
native races, without the assistance of Government. Tribal
jealousies needed analysing, as it was easy to do an injustice
to one division of the people, by acting precipitately on
the vague reports of others. Not only had the tribes who
lived in the Protectorate to be studied, but the adjacent
powerful chiefs, such as Mpezeni, who had been in the habit
of claiming tribute from our people.

The international questions I must leave alone, or leave
to the imagination, for politics are dangerous to write about,
especially for the amateur.

I have frequently heard hunters say : " So-and-so always
seemed a decent sort of chap ; I always hunted in his country,
and had a good time generally. It seems a pity he had to be
' gone for'" — and so on. All this is perfectly true, but those
men often forget that it is one thing to meet native chiefs as a
hunter and traveller, prepared to pay heavily for guides to the
best game resorts, to give and receive valuable presents, but

m

SUPPRESSION OF RAIDING

quite another matter to go as the representative of another
power, and to be compelled to punctuate your conversation
with " Thou shalt " and " Thou shalt not !

It was so in Nyasaland. Several chiefs who behaved
decently to isolated Europeans had to be severely dealt with
by officials responsible to the Crown. Some of the great Yao
chiefs took the field against the new order of things, caus-
ing trouble and expense; but of course the real disease was
the slave-trade, out of which, directly or indirectly, nearly
all the other troubles arose. It was the same story as at
Tanganyika — oppression, murder, devastation; and the same
rain-cloud was visible in the distance, but there was no Tip-
pu-Tib with sense enough to divine its meaning. Blind
opposition marked the course of events, until the final crushing
blow was dealt.

I was sent with ten Indian Sikhs to the extreme north
end, to check the Arabs who were importing ammunition
from the East Coast, and to stop the murderous raids
of the Northern Angoni, who came down from the hills
and dipped their assegais, as they said, in the weak
blood of the fishermen. These half-wild hill-people formed
part of the horde of semi-Zulus who crossed the Zambezi
many years previously, after their great battles in the
south.

It was not long before we collided with them, for a party
soon commenced their little game in our direction. I de-
spatched the Sikhs to capture them without fighting, if possible,
and this they did. The leader of the crowd wore the well-
known ring on his head ; he was about middle age, and
although quiet, was evidently disgusted at having his liberty
curtailed in this summary fashion. It was a new experience
in his life.

A talk soon revealed the fact that they knew the Scotch
missionaries. Doctors Laws and Elmslie, and as I had no other
object than to stop the raids, I released the lot, on the assurance

280

SUPPRESSION OF RAIDING

from the Doctors that it would not happen again. So great
was the influence of those missionaries that the promise was
respected ; it was the last raid in our direction.

Too much credit cannot be given to the Free Church of
Scotland men for the plucky and tactful manner in which
they handled such a wild and powerful tribe, without the
slightest assistance of protection from the Government, which
had not then been established.

These two Doctors had a remarkable escape from a lion
whilst on their way to pay me a visit. A beast sprang
on their tent at night, tearing part of the corner out right
over the face of Dr. Laws, who awoke, and hit at something,
which proved to be a lion. Strange to relate, it went away
without giving further annoyance, and I sewed up the rent
next day.

This is the only instance I have known of lions attacking
tents at night ; no matter how annoying their growls may be in
its vicinity, it is generally considered quite safe to go to sleep.

The slaves captured by these hill-people, whose raids we
now stopped, were transported over the lake in dhows, and
news reached the authorities of two which were hauled up
on the sand. Officers, with troops, steamed over for the
purpose of destroying them ; but the attempt proved a
disastrous failure. They sighted the vessels, and went on
shore to burn them, when suddenly a heavy fire was poured
on them from the bush. A trap had evidently been pre-
pared as soon as their approach was known.

The British officer in charge attempted to swim back
with his men to the anchored vessel, and almost succeeded
in reaching a rope thrown to him, when he sank, shot through
the head. The others were rescued, and the anchor weighed ;
but the rope thrown to the officer was caught by the
propeller, and the engines stopped. In the confusion the
vessel was stranded. This played completely into the enemy ""s
hands, for they kept up a hot fire, wounding several on

281

MURDER OF EUROPEANS

board. Barricades were erected around the bulwarks as
cover, and from behind these the fire was returned; but
the enemy increasing in numbers every hour, a protracted
defence was almost impossible.

Seeing that they held the trump card, the scoundrels
sent on board a deputation, saying that they were tired of
fighting, and if they were given bales of calico they would
assist to get the steamer off the sand. Catching at the
last straw, Captain Keiter gave them calico, but as soon as
this was in the hands of the people on shore fire was at
once opened again on the ship.

This went on for hours, until the increasing number
of wounded made the position seem hopeless. A second
deputation was sent, asking that white men should come on
shore to settle the terms of peace, which were to apply to
all their country, as well as to this particular fight.

They hesitated, fearing treachery, but thinking their posi-
tion could scarcely be worse, and hoping to save the situation,
two volunteered to go. They were led out of sight of the
steamer and brutally murdered by the orders of the chief,
Saidi Mwazungu.

The attack was again pressed, during which the captain
was wounded in the face. It was now seen to be a fight
to a finish ; but, nothing daunted, the heroic captain fought
on with his plucky Sikhs and natives. Under cover of the
night, he sent the steamer's crew overboard to dig out the
sand around the vessel ; they toiled on until daybreak, when
the cold off-shore wind increased in force and blew the vessel
into deep water. Their joy can only be faintly imagined.
The whole affair was a demonstration of that real grit
which has so often been exhibited by Scotsmen when in a
tight corner. Saidi Mwazungu scored for the moment, but
a time was fast approaching when he was to listen to the
sound of cannon, and to hear his death sentence pronounced
by me in a British Court of Justice.

282

CHILDREN'S GAMES

It is pleasant to pass from war to play, and the children
around Nyasa were just brimful of fun whenever the horrors
of war permitted. A favourite game of theirs was to cut
off the end of two gourds, passing through them a piece
of string about ten yards in length, and knotting each end.
One boy would sit behind a hut and place the oval disc
to his ear; the string was then stretched around another
hut, where several boys would whisper into the disc at the
other end, disguising their voices as much as possible. The
listener had to detect who spoke, and if he failed three
times in succession he was carried by all the boys and
ducked in the lake.

" Look at those boys ! " I remarked to a companion.
" What would the inventor say if he saw that primitive
telephone actually being used by those youngsters ? "

How few people imagine that girls may be seen all over
Africa playing " cat"'s-cradle " ; only theirs is extremely
complicated, and forms a series of such beautiful patterns
that I was never able to manipulate more than half of
them with the bewildering string. There is nothing like
it in this country ! Is our simple, childish cat's-cradle a
fragment, preserved through the ages, of this Central African
pattern ?

An even more remarkable resemblance to our games was
noticed. Two girls stood facing each other with joined
hands. About a dozen girls walking in single file approached
them, clapping their hands as an accompaniment to the
song the two big girls were singing. Each girl passed
under the joined hands of the two singers. On listening,
I heard these words : —

Lions and leopards ! Lions and leopards !

Hmiting at night.
Lions and leopards ! Lions and leopards !

Catch the game !

As the final word was sung, the two arms descended

283

CHILDREN'S GAMES

and made some girl a prisoner. She was then penalised by
having to stand and try to catch some one else. Substitute
for their words " Oranges and lemons,^"* and you join again the
childhood of white and black. When were they separated ?

Another pastime was what I should call "Prisoner's base";
it would afford amusement to our men and boys, as well as
teach them to swim under water.

A number of boys choose sides, and the boys on one side
swim out into the lake with a prisoner, who is put in an
anchored canoe. It is the aim of the other section to release
the boy in the canoe, by passing the defenders under water
and reaching the canoe before being touched by an opponent.
None of the defenders are allowed to wait closer than about
twenty yards to the canoe ; it is " off side.*"

It is very amusing to watch the tactics employed to
deceive the defenders. All the boys will swim away in one
direction, pursued by the other side ; this is done to draw-
away the defence, and as soon as an opportunity occurs one
will sink and swim back, under the pursuers, rising in the
rear, and dashing for the prisoner. The game, with a few
more additions, would make an exciting exhibition of good
swimming and generalship for English swimming clubs.

Many an hour was thus pleasantly passed watching the
gambols of black children, especially in those places where
we could follow their conversations, which are brimful of
smart repartee. The more serious engagements of war and
administration were forgotten for a while, and the mind
given a refreshing tonic by allowing oneself to become a boy
once more, and to revel in mirthful games.

That boys are boys all the world over is true, as we
all know, and I found, by entering into the spirit of their
pranks, that I learned many interesting details of their lives,
and sometimes got to see myself as they saw me.

For instance, one day, when passing through the village,
I heard some youngsters laughing behind me, and on turn-

284

Girls at Play

Pieces of stone are placed on the ground ; the player throws into the air the round wild fruit
she is holding and lifts one stone, catching the ball as it descends ; if she fails the next player tries.
The game is varied by placing the stones in a hole and removing one at a time.

Brick Making

Girls are engaged by Europeans to make bricks ; they love to knead the clay and become very
smart at handling the bricks. They work from 6 a.m. to about 2 p.m., then go home to pound up
maize for the afternoon's meal.

CHILDREN'S GAMES

ing suddenly, saw a boy with his hands placed edgeways on
his nose. I stopped and laughed, so as not to frighten them,
and sat down, calling them to come and have a yarn. They
cautiously crept near me one by one, and a few pleasant
jokes soon put them at their ease.

"Now then, boys, what was the meaning of those two
hands placed edgeways on your face ? Was it to represent
the bowsprit on my sailing-boat, or an elephant's tusk?"

Their faces beamed with mischief, but no one replied.
Don't be afraid ! tell me. I shall not be angry ; I want
to join in the fun."

One of the elder lads then said: "We meant no harm,
but, you see, your nose and our noses are so different. We
were showing how yours sticks out from your face like our
two hands on edge, and we said that if you ran quickly
between the huts it would knock against the lower ridge
and turn you round."

The huts being close together, and the lower edge of
the slanting roof almost on a level with a man's eyes, it
is easy to understand how they pictured my nose colliding
with the poles, and the thought of my being spun round
must have presented a very comical picture to them. I saw
the quite natural joke, and joined in the laugh, carrying
on the fun, thus :

" It sticks out, does it ? Do you think, if I put it to
the ground, and you wound a string around me and pulled
it, I should spin round like a top?"

They were down on all-fours immediately, with their
noses close to the ground, and spinning around on a pivot
to show how I should look. I laughed until the tears made
it difficult to follow their grotesque antics. When they had
demonstrated to their satisfaction that a revolving; white
man would be no end of fun to see, I continued : " Have
you ever wondered how it is your noses are so difterent to
mine ? "

287

ANALYSING THE NATIVE CHARACTER

"No!" they replied.

" Don't you think it's because, when you were babies,
your mother carried you on her back, and you pressed your
little noses against her, which made them grow flat ? "

The idea seemed novel, so they began pushing their
noses into each other's backs, to see how it felt, I suppose.
One who thought he detected a weak spot in the suggestion
replied, " If that flattened ours, why did it not do so with
yours ? ''

"Ah!" I answered, "that's just it. My mother carried
me in her arms, not on her back ! "

" How could she do her work and carry you as well ? "
came a ready inquiry.

" Look here, my lads ! I expect when I was a baby my
mother let my nose alone, but when you were born, perhaps
you had no noses, and your mothers squeezed up a lump of
porridge and put it on your face, and then made two holes
in it with her fingers, so that you might breathe, but
forgot to make it pointed. Go and ask them ! "

I rose, and looking back after going a short distance,
saw some running about pretending to have a gigantic
proboscis, whilst others were making imitations, in friendly
rivalry, of the latest fashion introduced by the white man.
Always after enjoying these impromptu circus performances,
I felt better able to think calmly over the more serious
problems arising on every hand. To escape from one's
official trappings, to cease to be a dictator, chastiser, and
representative of the law, even for a few moments, was not
only a recreation but a real education. It gave me oppor-
tunities of looking unobserved beneath the impenetrable
exterior of those black races, and to see many of the inner
aspects of their character. I found it profitable to make
the most minute observations, and to note every detail of
their actions, when for a few seconds they showed me a
glimpse of their real selves. Many of these true impressions

288

ANALYSING THE NATIVE CHARACTER

were invaluable to me afterwards, when called to investigate
cases of serious crime in our Courts of Justice, the decisions
sometimes entailing capital punishment.

The patriarchal form of government is sometimes too
quickly superseded by English law, with all its complicated
forms. These are quite beyond the understanding of a race
awakening from the slumber of ages.

What we know to be justice is to them, in many instances,
the opposite. Their tribal and social life, as I understand
it, had been kept together, not by Acts of Parliament,
police, and magistrates, but by answering " Yes " to the old
inquiry, " Am I my brother's keeper ? " Such a thing as
individual responsibility was almost unknown. Destitute of
the machinery to secure evidence, or arrest offenders who
escaped out of tribal jurisdiction, they perforce maintained
family responsibility, and this developed into tribal responsi-
bility, or, as we should say, national. In this manner half-
savage natives were held in check by the knowledge that
there could be no escape for the family if any member of
it broke the tribal laws or customs. Not only did this weld
families together in the interest of peaceful village life, but
secured to each member a corresponding amount of protection
all through life.

Young children were nurtured and taught to work by
the parents. Daughters married and settled near their
parents, assisted, guided, and protected by both families.
Old people, no longer able to work in the gardens, fell back
as children upon the now efficient guardianship of their
offspring, whose duty it became to watch over the last
resting-places of father and mother.

When free from the slave-raider and outside enemies,
they lived a simple and easy life, obtaining from nature
everything necessary for natural requirements from the
cradle to the grave; living in houses built by themselves,
for which they paid no rent, cultivating in their own gardens

289

ANALYSING THE NATIVE CHARACTER

just sufficient for everyday life; laying up no store, wasting
nothing, with no " rainy day to dread, mutual responsibility
insuring mutual help and support. " Sufficient for the day
is the evil thereof," was the keynote to the whole of their
lives.

When such a state of existence is possible at the present
day amongst black men, it will, I think, be easy for my
readers to understand how necessary it is to send amongst
them our most able administrators and missionaries, lest
they be too suddenly brought face to face with the tax-
collector, the policeman, and a life of severe competition
which will compel thousands of them to labour from day-
light to dark for other people, in order to obtain bread for
their families, and possibly drift into the same state as those
white races who not long since decided that it was some one'*s
duty to care for the aged population.

290

CHAPTER XVII

Big-Game Hunting — A Wild Trip across Nyasa — An Eclipse —
A Memorable Interview

NEWS of the defeat of the white men at Saidi Mwazungu's
spread rapidly, with the usual result, that most of
those who had been sitting on the fence jumped down
on the side of the victors. The Upper Shire River and
east coast were practically in the hands of the enemy, and
a renewal of slave operations immediately followed.

Sultan Jumbe reigned supreme at Kotakota, the great
forwarding depot from what is now North-East Rhodesia,
but this wily ruler had too many local enemies not to see
that it was the better policy not to take sides against the
British. His neutrality at this period was most valuable,
as, had his forces been thrown into the opposite scale, it is
impossible to say what might have happened.

Notwithstanding this general disturbance, big - game
hunters found it possible to obtain good sport amongst
the elephants which frequented the dense underwood growing
near Lake Nyasa. One of these hunters, the doctor of a
gunboat, lost his life in a battle with a lion. It appears
he came upon the lion suddenly, before he had time to
take a proper aim ; it charged him, and he fired as it
sprang towards him, severely wounding it in the chest, but
not sufficiently to stop its charge. The boys said the lion
bit him, breaking his left arm. It then left him and moved
away to some low bushes, and the doctor, upon this, called
his boy, made him lie down, and laying his rifle on his
back, fired with one arm and killed the lion, falling exhausted
at the same moment from the loss of blood. They carried

291

BIG-GAME HUNTING

him to the lake shore, but he died before the gunboat
arrived.

The last time we had dined together he was full of ambi-
tion to shoot a lion, and I believe this was his first oppor-
tunity. His fatal adventure was in striking contrast to the
success of another naval officer, w^ho bagged no less than
five lions at one spot near Chiromo, as they were feeding on
a dead water-buck. It was the record bag for Nyasaland.

There is undoubtedly a fascination about big-game hunt-
ing which deadens the senses to danger. To follow the foot-
prints of a bull elephant through high bango reeds or dense
jungle, not knowing at what moment you may discover him
within a few yards, seems idiotic when one coolly remembers
its power, and its ability to move with rapidity through
bush which is impassable to' you. But when you are actually
wading through water and mud, or slowly struggling through
reeds ten feet high, all sense of real danger is absent. There
is always the feeling that you hold in your hand a weapon
with which you can kill or stop your quarry. In most cases
this is what takes place, but at times the elephant scores, as
the following incident shows.

A young assistant magistrate named Johnstone, fresh from
home, was sent to assist me in the administration of the
Marimba district. We were compelled to live in a most
unhealthy station, on account of the large population of semi-
Arabs who lived under Sultan Jumbe. Johnstone soon con-
tracted malarial fever. As he failed to shake it off, I sent
him up to the hills for change of air. He had only been
gone a day, when one of his men came to my house carr3dng
his master's helmet, more or less damaged and dirty. I
saw something had happened, and not wishing to frighten
him, I continued my lunch, saying unconcernedly :

" W ell ? Master tumbled into the river Bua and wants

another helmet, I suppose .P""

" No, sir ! Njovu ! (Elephant !)

292

BIG-GAME HUNTING

" Is the elephant dead ? "
" No, sir ! "

" Is your master coming along ? "

" Yes, sir, l?ut he won't speak ; he is in his hammock."

It took but a few moments to procure brandy, eggs, and
milk, and I was off to his help, knowing that if alive he
must need some stimulant.

I met him about eight miles from home ; he was quite
insensible, but alive, with a good strong pulse. Both eyes
were black and swollen ; his face looked as if he had been
drawn along a gravel path ; one arm and leg seemed broken.
He lay all of a heap, but there was no loss of blood. We
tied the pole of the hammock to trees, so as not to disturb
any broken bones by laying him on the ground. We washed
the mud off his face and out of his mouth, pouring in weak
brandy and water, which, to my great relief, he swallowed;
but he did not open his eyes or speak. We beat up some
eggs in milk, adding a few drops of brandy ; this he also
swallowed, and gave a deep sigh. Having kept the flame
burning, we made for home. Besides myself our company
included but two Europeans, a trader and a missionary ; no
doctor.

One arm and leg were broken, and concussion of the brain
seemed certain. That the case was beyond me I at once
realised, and felt that to keep him for days before a doctor
could arrive was not giving him a chance. To a doctor
he had to go by some road or other. There was a trained
nurse at Likoma Island, eighty miles distant across the lake;
of her splendid abilities I knew ; should I risk such a voyage
in the small open boat offered by the trader ?

It was then 7 p.m., and dark. A strong south-east
monsoon was blowing ; the waves were really too high for
such a small craft, but it was a chance^ so I gave it him.

We put him on a native bedstead, and lashed it under-
neath the thwarts of the boat, covered by waterproof sheets

295

A DANGEROUS VOYAGE

to protect him from the spray. A drink of hot chicken
broth as a night-cap made him safe from starvation during
the passage, so we set sail about 8 p.m., the trader offering
to go with us and attend to Johnstone whilst I navigated.

I have no desire to exaggerate that yachting experience,
but any one who can picture a dark night, strong wind,
choppy, breaking waves, open boat, unconscious companion
under the thwarts, native crew, and eighty-mile trip, will
understand it was scarcely a picnic.

My foreign companion soon experienced mal-de-iner ;
this brought on fever, which he bravely attempted to shake
off, but the repeated doses of spray thrown over us all by
the high wind was unbearable to his already shivering frame,
and he said : " Johnstone's all right ; I must lie down under
shelter. May I cover myself with your cork mattress ? "

" All right ! " I shouted ; " have a sleep."

Our rotten mainsail split from the foot upwards, and the
pieces had to be lowered. I gave the helm to a native, and
jumping forward, tied the jib into a knot which made it
into a kind of balloon ; this was the only safe sail to run
under m ith a heavy folio v. ing sea and fair wind.

Other exciting events were experienced before morning,
but of too personal a character for narration by the writer ;
sufficient to say that a previous ten years in the mercantile
marine from boy to first officer had not impressed on me the
value of daylight so much as that wild trip across Nyasa.

In the early morning we reached Likoma Island, soak-
ing wet and done up. Johnstone was alive, but blissfully
ignorant of everything. Miss Rees (now Mrs. Wieble), of
the Universities Mission, at once came to the rescue.

" W ell, nurse, what"'s the damage ? I asked, after she
had examined him.

" Broken arm and leg, high up. Severe brain shock.
Nothing seriously wrong internally. Good thing you brought
him ; he may recover ! "

296

AN ECLIPSE

That was the right kind of woman for pioneers to meet ;
she possessed ability, common sense, courage. Empires cannot
be built without the help of such women ! She told me
afterwards Johnstone was unconscious for about two weeks
from the time of his accident. If, reader, you are wonder-
ing whether he ever recovered, I can assure you he did, for
at this moment he is H.M. representative not a hundred
miles from Morocco.

The grand woman who saved his life is now saving others
in her well-known West End establishment. Johnstone never
knew how it all happened. His men said the elephant
struck him with his trunk, then rushed at a policeman and
threw him into the grass where he described himself as
" sleeping."" In this case the elephant scored, and the know-
ledge of these possibilities makes its pursuit exciting.

Soon after our return from Likoma there was a total
eclipse of the moon. The people paraded the town, beating
hoes and firing guns. When we asked the reason of these
demonstrations, they replied : " The moon and Shetani "
(Satan) " are wrestling ; he wants to take away our moon, so
that we may always remain in the dark."' Africans value
the moon much more than we do, for they are very much
afraid of the dark. The birth of every moon is welcomed
with shouts of joy, as it is at once their calendar and village
lamp.

" Don't make so much noise about it," I said, " for the
devil will go to bed hungry ; he will not eat the moon ;
it will shine again. You don't cry when the sun goes to
sleep every evening — why not ? "

Because it comes up again in the morning ! they replied.

I saw my opportunity to find out what they thought of
the sun's movements ; hence my question.

" How is it we see it disappear behind those hills in the
evening and rise up the other side again ? How does it get
there.?"'

297 a

NATIVE PHILOSOPHY

" Goes back at night, sir."

" Does it ? Many of you are fishermen ; have you ever
noticed it go back when you were out on the lake at
night?"

This appeared to puzzle them, as no one answered.

" Cannot one of you suggest some reason ? Is there
another road underneath ? "

A sudden thought seemed to strike one, as he eagerly
exclaimed : " I know ! there is an olendo of suns — we see a
different one every day ! " (" Olendo " is the name given to
a number of travellers walking in single file.)

I let the matter rest at that ; the phenomenon had never
really given those particular men a serious thought, but the
hasty conclusion was not a bad attempt to solve the problem
with only the aid of his everyday experience as a guide.

Being in an inquisitive mood, I descended to terrestrial
problems by asking :

"Will you tell me how it is the male fowl knows when
it is nearly daylight ? He is in the dark and cannot see the
stars, or they might tell him."

One man replied : " He crows to warn the hippopotamus
it's time to clear out of the gardens into the lake."

" That may be," I replied, " but how does he know when
to crow ? "

Then followed a really ingenious explanation, and perhaps
original, for I have never heard it before.

" It's like this, master. During the day the fowl eats all
kinds of food, and also picks up little stones ; these are heavy
and sink down below the food in its crop. The food is gradu-
ally eaten again at night, like the cows do, and this work
takes up most of the night. When all the food is chewed up
it gets to the stones, and as these come into its throat they
nearly choke it, so it coughs the stones up. This effort wakes
it, and then it goes on crowing to exasperate the other male
birds."

298

NATIVE PHILOSOPHY

Whenever I now hear that familiar morning salute, I in-
variably say : " That chap's down to bedrock," and inwardly
smile at the quaint explanation of the coloured man.

At Kotakota we were much troubled with lions ; one
in particular attacked the labourers on a coffee plantation,
taking away three men and mauling a fourth.

It was noticed that he only left three footprints on the
soft ground. During his last visit he broke into a hut where
a number of young girls were sleeping and killed one ; their
shrieks scared him away for a time, but he shortly returned
and killed another girl, but, strange to say, carried neither
body away. The men then mustered up courage and went to
the assistance of the other girls. Both of the dead children
were brought to our fort; their necks were nearly bitten
through and broken.

All efforts to get at the brute failed ; he would not be
drawn from the rocks and dense bush where he bad hidden,
so we set gun-traps in the cattle-shed. This was more suc-
cessful, as the first night we bagged a leopard, and the second
his lordship. He was a full-grown old male, with broken
teeth, and, what was interesting, one of his paws was much
swollen and full of pus. On examination we extracted broken
fragments of porcupine quills, and this gave the clue to the
mysterious marks on the ground. He had received more
than he bargained for with the porcupine, and, unable to pull
out the broken quills, was quite disabled from catching game.
Hence he became a man-eater.

As a rule lions do not interfere with people where game
is plentiful, and in many districts its roar is heard every
night. One followed a mail man, but he escaped up a tree
and watched it tear to pieces the mail-bag, which happened
to contain a presentation copy of a novel sent by the author
to her brother at our fort. Through this book he bit furi-
ously, and my colleague said he should return it to his sister
to keep as an illustration of the savage reception her literary

299

STIRRING EVENTS

efforts met with in the tropics. Doubtless the author values
that copy above all others.

About this time each day was full of stirring events all
over the Protectorate. Saidi Mwazungu and Makanjira became
more bold in their raids after our defeat. Zarafi, perched
on a mountain, commanded the Upper Shire River and defied
the British to do their worst. INilozi, at the north end, openly
declared himself ready to fight it out. Mwasi, westwards,
denied us a free passage to his country, and it was becoming
too warm to be pleasant for the small British forces; but
Johnston never looked back, as he was loyally served by his
stafi*, who responded to his words of appreciation of the
slightest service rendered. I fancy that was one of the secrets
of his success in opening up new countries ; he trusted his men,
and let them know of his pleasure whenever good work was
done. Good men will do anything for such a leader.

One of the Universities missionaries was murdered by
the Northern Angoni, but this was proved to have been
the result of a mistake, and not a tribal plot; but it at
least showed the grass was ready for burning, as natives
would say. The temporary defeat of a handful of men
only tended to rally the spirits of those left in the field.
A determined attack was made on Saidi Mwazungu and
Makanjira; severe engagements were fought, the result at
times hanging in the balance; finally, however, victory was
won, both scoundrels thoroughly routed from the lake shore,
and a fort erected near to the very spot where the brutal
murders had taken place. The villains fled to the mountains,
and gave a lot of trouble; so our native and Indian troops
were sent at them again. They stormed the rocky heights
in grand fashion, completely smashing up the enemy once
for all in that region. Saidi Mwazungu fled to the Marimba
district, where he was to account later on for his foul
treachery.

From the command of Fort Maguire, I was transferred

300

A MEMORABLE INTERVIEW

to the late Sultan Jumbe's town, a hotbed of semi- Arab
intrigue; but no armed opposition was encountered. They
delighted in the most subtle dealings, keeping just outside
the law, which is far more annoying than open warfare.

Saidi Mwazungu lived in the hills at the back of my
residence, and incited the people to open rebellion. Our
people dared not travel westward, and the road was closed
to Mpezenis and the Luapula River, and there was material
enough on every hand for a general conflagration. Msaka-
mbewa and D'zeoli were constantly at war, so I paid D'zeoli
a visit, taking w^ith me 150 natives armed with muzzle-
loading rifles. When I approached D"*zeoli's village, he sent
peremptorily ordering me to camp where I stood, as he was
busy drinking beer.

I objected, saying: ''Go and tell your chief I do not
receive orders — I give them ; and to-night I sleep in camp
near his town ; to-morrow I call on him, to transact business."

It was not bluft' on their part, but simple suspicion and
fear. I found him quite a decent man, and had pleasant
relations with him for several years afterwards. He was
abnormally fat, having to sit on the ground with his legs
in a small hole. After somewhat more than the usual native
fencing before talking business, he said at last : " If you are
my chief, go and stop that Angoni Msakambewa who is
eating up my people ; their spears are never dry ! "

" Certainly I will," I replied, '* if you will send with me
some real good talkers to state your case, as they are orators
as well as warriors."

Leaving my force in camp at the base of the plateau, I
took five native police with D'zeoli's head-men, and went up
to see the much-dreaded Msakambewa, sending in advance
a letter to Mr. Blake, the Dutch missionary, asking him to
act as interpreter, and to advise the Angoni of our visit.
This he arranged most satisfactorily.

It was the first Angoni indaba I had attended. The

301

A MEMORABLE INTERVIEW

young warriors came fully armed, and when the old chief
appeared, saluted him by rattling their "cowhide" shields
and spears and enumerating all his marvellous names. He
wore a head-dress, and condescended to give me a most
dignified glance, as much as to say, " The great Msakambewa
has arrived ! "

Mr. Blake carried on all the conversation for me, as I
did not know their language; and, but for his assistance,
the indaba could not have been successful.

" Let the white man speak ; the Angoni's ears are open,"
were the opening sentences which fell from the chief as he
squatted on a mat.

I chafed at the warlike reception with bristling assegais,
and determined to administer a reproof at once, as he had
been informed that my soldiers were left twenty miles away.
" I am glad to meet the great Msakambewa and to know
the Angoni's ears are open, but I did not imagine such
clever people thought they could catch my words on the
points of their spears, as they catch an enemy. Words are
like the wind, and only children could conceive it possible
to imprison them. I left our spears at rest in camp ; they
are only for the eyes of the King"*s enemies, not for his
friends. But perhaps it was your intention to prevent any
of my words from escaping, and if that is your intention
you had good reason to come armed. Otherwise it was a
mistake."

This let them down easily, but it was undoubtedly an
initial score for our side. We showed them that the back
seat must find some other occupant.

I then called a head-man to state the case of D'zeoli,
which he did with commendable ability. I watched Msaka-
mbewa's face, but it was sphinx-like.

" Your man has uttered a fairly damaging indictment," said

Blake. The chief took a pinch of snufl* and looked towards

his orator, who stepped into the clear space and replied :

302

A MEMORABLE INTERVIEW

" If I heard correctly, you said — " so and so, rapidly rnn-
ning over all the previous speaker's points. Then he unrolled
a tornado of words, accompanied by expressive gestures,
which held the whole assembly spell-bound. I would have
given much to have understood his graphic language.

That he was hitting the mark was obvious ; my people sat
cringing and afraid. Finally, as the man drew near the end
of his peroration, he suddenly turned towards the last speaker
and paused. It was one of those eloquent pauses we know so
well. Stretching out both hands to his opponent, he shouted :
" Was not that great raid on our villages led by you? you?
youV

As he sat down every warrior sprang to his feet, shook his
shield and spear in defiance, and shouted : " Yes ! You ! you !
you!''

It was now time to put on the brake, as it was apparent
that there were grave faults on both sides, and they were
getting too excited.

"Has the white man heard our words.?" asked Msaka-
mbewa.

" Yes, I have ! I do not require a lot of dancing men with
spears to help me hear ; it is not the custom of white chiefs.
You have both been guiity in the past. I have not come to
decide on what has passed, but to tell both of you that it must
now stop, and whoever disobeys will be punished by our troops.
To-day the past dies. Do you both agree .f^"

After some hesitation they assented, and I said :
Msakambewa will then break his spear, to show his people
that his words were not wind, and that war in his heart is
dead."

" No ! " he replied. " Msakambewa cannot break Chiwere's
spear ; he is the great Angoni chief."

This I knew was true, but at the same time was used by
him to escape from his promise. I did not intend him to get
off so easily, so, rising, I said : " Come along, Blake ! Please

303

A MEMORABLE INTERVIEW

tell him I am sorry to have wasted your time; I thought I
was speaking to a chief.'' I knew this exposure of his limited
authority, before all his people, would cut him deeply ; and it
did, for, raising his voice and looking to his men, he asked :

" Am I not the great Msakambewa ? "

"You are truly our chief," they shouted.

Seizing the favourable opportunity, I quickly answered :
" You are not the chief of all the Angoni, and cannot break
the tribal spear ; I did not ask you to do that, but to break
your own, I will not now accept the pieces; my King only
accepts a chiefs spear, not a head-man's. Exchange snufF and
salt with my people, and that will be quite sufficient."

This was done, and that evening|he sent me the only bull in
his private herd (so Blake told me), and his son was sent back
under my escort to sleep in the enemy's country. There was
great rejoicing all over the country at the news of the assegais
being buried. People who for years had been obliged to live
in rocky mountains, descended to the fertile plains, stockades
only existed to keep out lions, and from that day to this the
oaths sealed with snuff, salt, and palaver have not been
broken.

The day is still remembered by Blake and the people as a
red-letter day in the histor}- of this country. Msakambewa
is now very old and left far behind by his young people,
who have long had peace, and have profited by the industrial
and educational institutions established in their midst by the
Dutch Reformed Church.

Descending to the lake again after this most interesting
interview, we slept near a swift -running river swollen with the
first rains. I found the people greatly excited, catching an
enormous quantity of fish, which were swarming up the river to
spawn. Fish-baskets, made out of strong reeds, were fastened
to a strong dam built across the stream. They became full of
fish in a few moments. Boys took off their clothes and made

miniature nets, dragging scores of fish on shore about the size

304

SHOOTING ELEPHANTS

of mackerel. The next morning the reeds were full of dying
fish ; others were floating down stream with their mouths above
water, apparently exhausted. When asked why they died up-
stream, the people replied : " Because there are too many of
them ; they starve — there is no food." Others said it was on
account of the water up-stream being brackish. This spawning
takes place annually, but no two rivers are used by the same
species of fish; each stream has its particular species which
uses it for spawning. All leave their work to engage in this
annual fish feast. They cut the fish open down the back and
dry them, and store them away for the rainy season, many
being transported to other districts.

In order to get away from this African Billingsgate, I strolled
into dense country, and struck fresh elephant spoor. Out of
curiosity I followed it, soon overtaking two bulls, standing
waving their enormous ears to keep away the small flies from
their eyes. I had never fired at an elephant, and knew nothing
of the game, except that it was risky to amateurs; but the
temptation was too great.

" Get closer, master," one of my men whispered.

I felt already uncomfortably close — about forty yards — but
mustered up courage and advanced to about twenty-five yards.
They seemed to be watching me.

" They cannot see very well in the daytime, master ; they
sleep."

" Oh ! do they ? " I thought, but did not reply ; the subject-
matter under discussion was too adjacent, and not another
yard would I approach.

They were facing us, looking quietly wicked, capable of
anything, from crushing the life out of me to hurling down
the nearest tree, so, resting my rifle on a branch, I fired, and
down went the nearest bull. His chum threw up his trunk to
ascertain the direction from which the attack came, and as he
did so I hit him somewhere in the ear, and he rushed past us,
receiving several more shots. The fallen animal only had one

807

SHOOTING ELEPHANTS

tusk, and the other I bagged a week after in the reeds, where
he lay up badly wounded. As I sat on the carcase of my
second elephant, news reached me of the commencement of the
great attack on Mlozi at Karonga, and I travelled home as
soon as possible, feeling little doubt that my rifle might soon
be wanted in other directions.

308

CHAPTER XVIII

Bishop Maples — Capture of Mwasi's Stronghold — Infantile
Mortality

OUR return home was none too soon, for mission boys in
an exhausted condition arrived with the sacramental
vessels of Bishop Maples. Laying them at my feet,
they burst into tears, crying : " Baba ! Baba ! Askofu !
(Father! Bishop!)

" Where is he?'' I asked.

" Drowned with Padre Williams in the lake, sir ! "

It was a great shock to me, for I had known Maples for
years as one of the most able and progressive missionaries in
Nyasaland. I was impatient with their tantalising delay in
telling me more, and cried, "Where — when — how?" Then
follow ed a description of how they started from the south with
a strong fair wind at night. A naval officer warned them not
to attempt such a dangerous passage whilst the wind was so
strong, but the Bishop was anxious to get to his station. As
they made their way up the lake, every mile exposed them to
heavier seas, and the native captain begged to be allowed to run
for shelter; but to this the Bishop would not consent. They
ran on under a mizen and mainsail, when suddenly, out of the
darkness, high rocks appeared right ahead. Every seaman
knows what happened. The helm was suddenly jammed hard
alee, the mizen caught the full weight of the wind, and, as
she broached to, the next following sea capsized her and threw
them into the lake. Williams was asleep in a small cabin and
sank with the boat. The captain, in his evidence before me at
the inquest over the Bishop's body, which was found some days
subsequently, said :

309

BISHOP MAPLES

" After the boat capsized the Bishop scrambled on to a tin
box, but it filled and sank. We begged him to remove his
cassock, but he refused, saying, ' Never mind me ; I feel my
hour to die has come, you swim on shore and tell the Europeans
of our death."* His cassock filled with water and he sank/'

What a tragic ending to a splendid life devoted to the
good of Africans ! I could not help recalling that wild night
on Tanganyika, when the squall struck us and, momentarily
blinded by lightning, we were hurled in a similar manner into
the waves. But I was not encumbered with a cassock ; other-
wise this would never have been written.

The mission boys all swam on shore, one actually having
the presence of mind to save the sacred vessels. I think that
act illuminated this dark page in the history of missions. In
a howling wind, amongst heavy breakers, on a dark night,
whilst swimming for his life, a black boy added to the dangers
which threatened him by voluntarily conveying to the dan-
gerous rocks things sacred to a white man, whom he knew
he would never meet again.

The Bishop lies buried behind the altar of a fine stone
church, erected, under the supervision of Europeans, by native
converts at Kotakota. It was here that Arthur Eraser Simm
lost his life, whilst establishing the Universities Mission in the
midst of a Mohammedan population. For a long time he
was my only companion, both Government and Mission staff
being much too small for the work that each had to do. It
would have done some people good to have seen that cultured
university scholar cheerfully living in a small mud hut and
teaching dirty black men and women to manipulate clay for
brick-making, or making with bits of glittering quartz a simple
decoration for the mud walls of his first church. In the
evenings we compared notes, and endeavoured to cheer one
another up by relating the small achievements of the day — so
many bricks made, perhaps, or so much grass cut for thatching,
&c. Here we were serving Church and State, without any of

310

FALL OF MLOZI

the pomp and show of either, deep down at the foundations of
empire, comrades and chums — but I lost him !

It was our fate to be stationed at what our medical men
have described as the most unhealthy place in Nyasaland.
Fever carried him oif in the prime of life. For four days and
nights I attended him without avail. On the fifth he beckoned
to me and whispered, " Good-bye ! Wash my feet. Others
will come ! and he was gone — nearly taking me with him,
for a severe attack of fever followed the prolonged vigil which
had ended in failure.

Taking advantage of my illness, Saidi Mwazungu and
Chabisa made things lively by attacking some of my outlying
villages. A demand was sent that they should desist from
these outrages and deliver up to me the murderer of white
men under a flag of truce. To this they insolently replied,
" Come and take him, if you want him."

Matters became so bad that, in order to open up the
country westwards towards North-East Rhodesia, Mwasi must
evidently be put down, so I sent to headquarters for asvsistance
and permission to clear him out of the path. Johnston was
then busy with his great task of opening up the northern
road to Cairo by breaking up the Arabs at North Nyasa, so
I had to wait.

It was just a repetition of Rumaliza and the Belgians on
Tanganyika. The champions of freedom were at death-grips
with slavers of the most ruthless type. The fierce onslaught
of our Indian troops was met with a stubborn defence worthy
of a better cause; for these people fight like demons behind
entrenchments. But the result was scarcely ever in doubt.

A parley was held with Mlozi the chief under a flag of

truce, and he was offered his life if he would surrender ; but

he refused, choosing to fight to a finish. The earthworks

were at last blown down by artillery and the Sikhs let go.

They stopped at nothing in their mad rush to victory. All

the stockades fell in rapid succession. Mlozi was captured,

311

CAPTURE OF MWASrS STRONGHOLD

tried, and executed for the brutal massacre of those grand
Wankonde in the lagoon, whose deaths were at last avenged
by British justice. Alas ! it came too late.

The grand sweep of Wankonde manhood, swinging down
to the lake to bathe, was a thing of the past. The British
flag flew not only over the ashes of Mlozi's towns, but over
the silent graves of a partially destroyed tribe.

The road to Cairo was at last open, and troops were sent
to me at Kotakota with instructions to take what steps I
considered necessary to open the south-western trade-route
to Rhodesia. Cecil Rhodes was working northwards, we were
working southwards, to complete the chain of communications.

I embraced the opportunity of sending a postcard through
to Cairo by an English traveller, who kindly offered to convey
it via Uganda. This card was the first postal missive sent
through, and was afterwards graciously accepted as a souvenir
by my Sovereign.

Wishing to avoid recourse to arms, if possible, I again
sent to Mwasi, demanding an open road and the surrender
of the murderer, at the same time warning him that a refusal
would certainly mean war at once. Nothing but insolence
was received in reply, so I decided to accept their invitation
to visit them. Lieutenant Alston of the Coldstream Guards,
with the victorious Indian troops, had completed all arrange-
ments, and we left Kotakota for Mwasi's, sixty miles distant
over the hills. At our second camp more than 2400 irregular
troops joined us, bringing their own rifles and ammunition;
not a percussion-cap had been issued by the Government.
The Indians were slow on the march, but solid ; one felt they
could be depended on. I went on with a flying detachment
to secure the first village and food. We marched all night,
and crept close to the town, hiding in the grass. As soon
as they opened the gates in the morning we dashed through,
ordering the people to remain quiet so that no one should
get hurt. The main body arrived about noon, and the

S12

CAPTURE OF MWASrS STRONGHOLD

inhabitants of 116 villages which dotted the plain knew that
war had arrived in dead earnest.

The country was open, the people very quarrelsome, and
had they been of Zulu extraction, there were enough of them
to give considerable trouble. Several chiefs sent protesting
neutrality, and to them were given white flags to hoist over
their towns.

At 4 A.M., in a downpour of rain, we marched towards
Mwasi's headquarters. As we approached the mountain stray
shots were fired at us from its slopes, and we could see a host
of half-wild creatures brandishing their spears in the neigh-
bourhood of their stockades. A detachment of Makua soldiers
was ordered to extend into skirmishing order, to drive in the
outposts of our enemy; but they showed the white feather,
and refused to march into the high grass. The wily native
and his spear were not relished by these cowards.

It was not a task to attempt with my armed rabble, so
they were ordered to remain under the mountain and not to
take part in the fight until they saw us take the first village.
In fact, they took the place of cavalry.

My detachment, consisting of Sikhs, was marched across to
the right. As we took up position the natives fired, wounding
several men, but they refused to retire. The people shouted
to us :

" We'll send you back to the lake to eat fish."
" Junglee, Junglee, plenty know how to fight."
The Sikhs called all Africans Junglees, and thoroughly
despised them.

Alston occupied the centre position, a sergeant-major the
left. At the sound of a bugle, we were to fire three volleys,
fix bayonets, and charge.

How eager those splendid Sikhs were, and as steady as if on
parade. They needed no leading, for at the first note of the
bugle their rifles rang out, bayonets were fixed, and with a
shout they were off, straight for those loopholed walls. The

313

CAPTURE OF MWASrS STRONGHOLD

other detachment charged simultaneously, making such a
deafening noise as had never been heard before on that
plain. We were checked several times by the heavy fire
from rifles and arrows as we got closer, but the Indian blood
was up. No natives could face their wild looks, as, with a
final shout, they flung themselves over the stockade and
rallied inside, breathless, perspiring, and dirty, but victorious !
The same process was repeated with several other large towns,
some taking longer to capture than others, but they ail went
under in the end. Mwasi succeeded in escaping.

Saidi Mwazungu was captured after four years' constant
endeavours to bring him to account for his atrocious deed.
My irregular host were set free, and they completed the
opening of the road towards the Cape. In addition to Saidi
Mwazungu, we captured one Arab standard, hundreds of
cattle, sheep, and goats, about .^^1200 worth of ivory, 298
rifles, gunpowder, and tons of food. Soaked with rain and
covered with mud, I joined Alston in the evening, who was
in a similar plight, and as the old year died and the new
one was born, we drank hot coffee to " Absent Friends "
in Merrie England.

An independent writer summed up our operations thus:
" The opening of the trade-routes to the Luapula River are
not the greatest advantages which will be derived from this
defeat of Mwasi. We may be certain that the prestige of
dealers in human misery will have received a shattering blow
in all the regions between the Portuguese border and the
Loangwa, while, on the other hand, the ability of the British
to make their Protectorate of the country a reality will have
been most forcibly impressed on the native mind. Not only
has the capital of the presumptuous monarch been captured,
but a fort has been built there which is now garrisoned by
Protectorate troops, so that there will be a standing pledge
and symbol of our authority in the heart of the country.
Thus gradually and irrevocably the tide of civilisation sweeps

A BREACH OF ETIQUETTE

onward over the darkest places of the Dark Continent, and
not for the first or the last time has British daring and
enterprise brought succour to the slave. If the process of
' ransoming the African ' has to be effected by violent means,
then it is altogether satisfactory to find that a force under
the British Flag is capable of meeting four times its number
of natives and semi-Arabs and putting them to rout. In a
victory of this description there is much to be proud of, and
nothing to regret, for it is a triumph of justice and mercy
over base greed and cruelty/'

I insert the foregoing in memory of my brave comrade,
Lieutenant Alston, who afterwards fell a victim to fever in
Nyasaland. Saidi Mwazungu was, later on, brought before me
on a charge of murdering Dr. Boyce and another, to which he
pleaded guilty. A long trial nevertheless followed, in which he
was ably defended by Arab friends, but the evidence was over-
whelming, and I was compelled to pass sentence of death.
This was endorsed by H.M. Consul-General, and he was
executed at Kotakota.

Having now assumed authority over all the hill people, it
was necessary for me to warn the great Mpeseni to let our
people alone ; so I sent him twelve head of cattle, informing
him of our occupation of Marimba, and that he must cease to
raid the people.

To this he replied :

" If any of my people do so, cut off their heads."

He also sent Indunas to interview me at the lake, but no
return present. I let them chat on undisturbed, and, when
they had finished, I surprised them by saying: "Your mouths
are full of words, but your hands are empty. No chief sends to
another only words ; you must be impostors. When I spoke to
Mpezeni there were six cattle in each hand. My chief is much
greater than yours, and yet your chief dares to speak to me
with empty hands. It is an insult; go away and tell him
so." They saw that their chief had committed a breach of

315 R

PEACE A^ICTORIES

etiquette, that he was treating me as a subordinate, not even
as an equal, and that I would not submit.

The Induna replied: "You talk as a chief; Mpezeni will
speak again next month."

He did, and with ivory in both hands, so all was peaceful.

A period of comparative rest followed these stormy times.
The building-up process had to be commenced all through the
Protectorate ; and there was one important work which had
to be done first. Civilisation had concluded it was better to
decide frontiers by the pen than by the sword, so I was sent
as British Commissioner to meet Portuguese officials to mark
out our respective territories.

How little the general public know of these international,
diplomatic, and economical victories of civilisation gained
every year by a few unknown public servants in the heart of
Africa and elsewhere. When the sword is drawn and the
cannon speaks, making widows and orphans in thousands, and
taking millions of treasure from the tax-payer, the world
rings with applause of the victorious general. But there are
perhaps greater victories won by isolated officials in a quiet
camp away yonder amongst the hill-tops, with nothing but a
sextant, a theodolite, and plane-table, adding lines to the map
of the world which perhaps enclose territories greater than
Britain itself, and the cost of such title-deeds less than the
rifles of a single brigade of troops.

May we not call these victories of civilisation and common
sense ? Not quite so exciting as the furious rush through
smoke, but the result is the same. Tlie old flag goes up. I
remember, at the completion of our work on the frontier, one
of my Portuguese colleagues, with whom we had conducted
the delicate negotiations, lit a cigarette, lay back in his chair
beside the last erected beacon, and asked :

" Don't you think our countries ought to fire a salute at
the peaceful termination of such w^ork ? "

"Captain ! "I replied, "did you ever know a native of this

316

LION SHOOTING

country appreciate anything you gave him ? Make him jjay
for it handsomely and you increase its value ! So it is with
all such work as ours. It costs little from an Imperial point
of view, and is not of so much value to those who order salutes
to be fired as a single vote of the village blacksmith in an
obscure corner of our countries. Never mind ! When your
son and mine come home from school, we may have the great
pleasure of hearing them describe where this beacon stands,
dividing the land of Portugal from England."

"Yes,"' he replied, "that's nice to remember. It was
erected by the aid of sun, stars, and telescope. The sword
does not erect ; it cuts down. Nevertheless, it is bright, sharp,
and it hurts, and — scores ! The pen is too tame for the
excitable world of to-day."

We saluted each other and parted, both proud to have
held for a time the confidence of our Sovereigns.

The occupation of delimiting the frontier was interrupted
one evening by my noticing a flock of vultures hovering in
the air, and others sitting on trees. This indicated the
presence of some dead animal in the vicinity, so I approached
very cautiously through the grass and came on a dead bull
eland, partially eaten by lions, who were, doubtless, in hiding
near by.

Sending on the porters, I climbed a low tree to look over
the tall grass, and remained quiet. After an hour's waiting
the vultures became uneasy, and I guessed the lion was on the
move. This proved to be the case, as immediately a lioness
emerged into the open, close to the dead animal, and began
smelling about, very suspicious that something was wrong. I
was about seven feet from the ground, quite within her spring-
ing distance, but she had not yet noticed me, and I was
content to keep her covered by my rifle and wait for the
lion. This little game she suddenly spoiled by turning her
eyes directly at me; possibly I had made some slight noise, or
she got my wind. She looked very handsome with head

317

LION HUNTING

thrown up, ears erect, and tail straight out. I was discovered.
She appeared to hesitate as to what it were best to do, we
had met so suddenly. I was a little too far off for her, I
imagine, so she curled up one lip and turned to retreat, when
I rolled her over with a split Jeffery bullet through the
shoulder.

It w^as time to look out for her mate, who was, I felt, sure
to be near. And I was right ; for, turning my head towards a
movement in the grass, I saw the lion approaching in response
to the deep growds of the lioness as she was struck down. He
saw me the instant I moved, and stopped, crouching, as if to
spring ; for this I dared not wait, so I shot him at once. He
never moved, being stunned by the bullet. They were not
full-grown; but their perfect skulls may be seen in the
Worthing Museum, together with the record wart-hog shot
in the same neighbourhood. Lions were numerous along
certain portions of the frontier, probably owing to the large
numbers of game which lived in the adjoining preserve.

It will be noticed our life was extremely varied during this
transition stage, and some of the best times I had were when
I could get away into the bush and hunt the elephant, which
was then becoming quite a nuisance to the people, since they
w^ere not allowed to be shot at except under a £25 licence.
They would enter maize-gardens and make havoc, destroying
grain-stores and consuming their contents. Females and their
young were the principal offenders. I found the cow elephant
and tuskiess bulls by far the most dangerous. They appeared
ahvays on the alert to scent danger, whilst the old bulls
sheltered under dense vegetation, not anticipating trouble of
any description.

It is a debatable point with hunters whether they see you
and are callous, or whether they think you are game not worth
noticing. At times I have moved about, close to a herd,
without their being alarmed ; at other times I have been seen
at once, and immediately charged by cows. I am inclined to

318

INFANTILE MORTALITY

think one is not noticed, especially in strong sunlight, but it
is difficult to escape observation early in the morning or late
in the day. There is still a considerable number of cows in
Nyasaland, but old bulls are very scarce.

As the country becomes developed, these animals will have
to go ; for already the educated native is asking why he pays
taxes, and is not compensated by the Government for loss of
crops by elephants. The tax-collector rapidly followed the
magistrate, the problem he found was how to obtain taxes
from a people who had not the means to pay ?

In some districts labour was obtainable, but mine was too
far removed from the trade-centres, so I made them cultivate
rice which I received in lieu of taxes. This was carefully
nursed year by year, until we exported from Jumbe's old slave-
depot no less than 600 tons in one season. The use of Indian
rice was abandoned in favour of our home-grown produce,
and there seems no reason why the vast marshes in the Shire
River valley should not be torn up by steam-ploughs and tens
of thousands of tons of rice grown and exported to South
Africa and other countries, cheaper than it can be brought
from the East.

Another great problem was how to stop the destruction of
infants. When a woman had given birth to twins, the work
imposed on her in the rice-fields was so great a burthen as to
be almost unbearable ; and there were, no doubt, thousands of
infants killed. I had long talks with the chiefs, but they all
considered that it was no use punishing the women ; we must
gain our object by other means. I recognised that it was
a great task for mothers with twin children to clean the tax-
rice, and this helped me to solve the problem of infantile
mortality.

I issued a notice to the effect that all women who bore
twins would be exempt from taxation during the current
year, provided they brought the youngsters the following
year. This paternal administration brought down on me an

319

INFANTILE MORTALITY

avalanche of good-natured banter from colleagues, but the
end justified the means. It also caused not a little merriment
at the annual collection of taxes.

I was prepared for fraud, so each pair of little darkies was
subjected to the scrutiny of an unemotional native sergeant of
police ; and to create as much fun as possible, I insisted on
two boys being on the examining staff. Those boys almost
made people consider themselves extremely fortunate to be
allowed to pay taxes ; their happy jokes at the expense of
some women who tried to impose on me were most refreshing
to us all, and made the issue of tax receipts quite a pleasant
occupation.

I frequently heard conversations like the following take
place : —

" That child is not yours ; you have borrowed it ! "
" That one's nose is flatter than this one's ! "
" This baby is older and fatter than the other ; take it
away."

If they passed the youthful examiners, the general public
gave the mother a cheer as she left the custom-house, but I
must admit it seemed to rain twins the first year. I argued
that if I could make it pay her to preserve the second child for
a year, the mother would have not only become used to the
burden, but would have learned to love it, and would need no
further incentive to spare its life. There was compensation,
I think, for the momentary loss of a 3s.-tax in the annual
addition to the manhood, and therefore to the labourers of
the country. It may have been a crude manner of dealing
with such a task, but great evils need heroic remedies in
new countries.

The Arab regime had too long held the field for purposes
of destruction ; it was now our turn to initiate new methods, to
stop any further decrease of the population, and to build up
out of chaos and ruin a healthier and better race of people.
The abolition of slavery broke down all tribal jealousies.

320

FREEDOM'S DIFFICULTIES

People began to travel, and this meant enlightenment and
broadening of ideas. Young people perceived that there
were other and better methods to be learned from larger and
more powerful tribes. Thousands, who had been carried away
as slaves in their youth, found old relatives still alive, and a
general migration ensued from one district to another, bring-
ing all kinds of intricate relationships and claims to be adjudi-
cated in our Law Courts — as, for example, a girl carried away
as a slave married her captor's son, bore children ; they had
in turn married. She hears of her own relations being still
alive in the old home and she at once runs away, taking
all her children. The father follows and claims his wife
and children. These are divided again, some clinging to
the mother, others to the father ; the girl claiming freedom
under our flag, the husband claiming to have been legally
married under native law.

Freedom in thousands of instances set whole families at
variance, their claims being so w^ell balanced as to make it no
easy task to decide in a British Court. In the case of young
children, the ruse of Solomon frequently needed to be put
into practice. This side of the white man's burden is not
illustrated in Blue Books or tabulated in Revenue-returns ;
but it forms a very real part of every magistrate's day's
work.

Fanatics often ask : Why not abolish slavery with a stroke
of the pen? It cannot be done without bringing many
extremely painful experiences into the lives of the liberated,
and the wiser course is a gradual transition. I often
wondered whether the natives really felt thankful to us for
crushing the slave-trade, for the new state of things brought
no end of trouble in the early days. Again and again I
asked myself the question : Will they, during my lifetime,
realise what freedom means? My question was completely
answered by a boy, just before I left the country, and it gave
me infinite satisfaction. A big, burly man ordered a lad to

321

SEEDS OF FREEDOM

do something, but the boy turned on him sharply, uttering
these words :

" I shan't ! Do you think I am a slave ? "

That was what we had all been working for. It had come
at last! The African rising generation no longer imagined
it was simply unfortunate to be a slave, they felt it to he
a disgrace! In that knowledge lived the germ of a social
revolution.

322

CHAPTER XIX

Wonderful Industrial Development

WE have travelled far together since landing from the
old slave-dhow opposite Zanzibar, and have almost
witnessed the closing scenes of the Central African
drama in which the writer took part. Could David Living-
stone live again he would be astonished at the transformation
scene. He took wide and comprehensive views of national
responsibilities, focussing our vision upon the grievances and
oppression which weighed on this dark corner of the world.

Cecil Rhodes, whose greatness perhaps we have scarcely yet
accurately realised, also thought in continents, and whilst we
were clearing the path northwards, he was forging up from
the south. His line of iron telegraph-poles marched onwards
through treacherous swamps, penetrating dense forests in-
habited by the ponderous elephant (who frequently played
havoc with the intruder). Still on, over mountain and valley,
ever northwards, this line followed a steadfast course until it
spanned the mighty Zambezi River. To reach this goal was,
for the moment, considered a marvellous achievement by most
people ; but there was no half-way house in the brain of
Rhodes. No rest for those poles until stretching up to, and
across, the Shire River, they placed Blantyre, the namesake of
Livingstone's birthplace, in touch with both hemispheres.
Scarcely lingering there a day, they skirted the shores of Lake
Nyasa, leaping, as it were, the lofty plateau (where the
elephants smashed up my cooking utensils one night !) and
embracing far-away Tanganyika.

Little did I imagine, as we posted that scrawl of Pitman's

323

INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

shorthand down the barrel of a rifle in our endeavour to
communicate with the outside world, that it would be
possible in my time to send a telegram to London in two
days from near the spot where Stanley met Livingstone;
yet such was the case.

The complete cessation of war brought to life a compara-
tively dead people. Whole tribes began to get their heads
up, to look around, and there was born a very natural desire
to see the world. To thousands of liberated men the
southern gold-fields were an irresistible attraction. At home
they could not hope to receive more than three shillings
per month for their labour, that being really good wages
at the time ; but they were not slow to learn that, by
marching a few hundred miles, they could obtain fifteen
to twenty shillings per month, and so they trekked south-
wards in thousands.

Local interests suffered from this wholesale exodus, and
it was not easy for some who complained bitterly to recognise
the fact that, when once you knock the slave-chain off a
man's neck, you not only release his body but give wings
to his mind. He begins to think, and soon learns that his
labour is his capital. We were compelled to face these
new problems almost before the slave-chain had become rusty.

To readers who have never witnessed the awakening of
a race of men, it is difficult adequately to describe the rapid
march of their progress. One's brain at times became
confused, a portion thinking along the lines of the old
regime, when palaver and finesse were used to guide the
half-savage intellect ; another portion studying some obscure
clause of an " Order in Council," and trying to foresee the
effect it would have on the latest development of character.
One moment we were endeavouring to explain to the natives
the use of the long wire running through the country, and
listening to their declaration that it was put up simply "for
swallows to sit on ; '' the next, hearing one of their tribe

SM

Building a Fort

The Author planting the British flag on a clearing of dense bush pre-
paratory to erecting a fort to hold the Arabs in check in North Nyasaland.
Cooking operations are seen in the foreground, whilst a sentry watches on
the bush side. Subsequently the Arabs who massacred the Wankonde in
the lagoon were crushed near to this fort and the road to Cairo cleared.

A Beautiful Native-built Cathedral

This is the most beautiful cathedral in Equatorial Africa, and was erected by Nyasaland
natives under the superintendence of the Universities Mission. All the fancy bricks, stone-
carving, and elaborate woodwork, are native made. The Established Church of Scotland has
also a very fine church at Blantyre.

INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

tick off our Christmas greetings to a friend in the old
country. To-day missionaries might be seen laboriously
teaching a lad the alphabet ; to-morrow that youngster is
busily typing despatches to the Home Government.

Perhaps the most bewildering advance was made along
industrial lines. Not many miles from where the missionary,
Atley, was murdered, now stands the most beautiful cathedral
in Equatorial Africa, erected by black men under the
superintendence of the Universities Missionaries. It is built
of stone, quarried out of the adjacent hills, and bricks
moulded into various shapes. The carved wood and stone-
work would reflect credit on a European mechanic. To stand
inside and gaze up at its lofty roof, supported by enormous
arches, makes one almost doubt the fact that but a very
few years ago the only structures the builders knew of were
made of reeds and mud.

Busy compositors rapidly set up minute type for the
printing press which chronicles the daily onward march of a
race, not long since a mere shuttle-cock, driven hither and
thither by the merciless strokes of the slave-raiders.

A youth, whose relatives have not yet given up allegiance
to the dreaded poison ordeal, and retain implicit belief in
all kinds of witchcraft, may be seen reading his Greek
testament and shepherding the younger boys of his own village.
One moment a magistrate may be heard passing sentence of
death on a creature who is little removed from the brute
the next, marrying a young couple, near relations of his, who
have renounced polygamy. A man, not yet past the prime
of life, who has never stepped inside a craft larger than a
canoe, stops to gaze with awe and wonder at a huge steam
vessel as it rushes past, nearly upsetting his frail boat; and
as he looks he waves his hand to his son on the bridge, who
is piloting and steering the steel monster into port.

The rattle of Masakambewa's spears against the Angoni
shields had scarcely become inaudible ere I heard of the

327

INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

measured tramp of their brothers, clad in khaki, led by
their own brass band and non-commissioned officers, boldly
turning out an enemy from the dense bush in Ashantee. The
men who saw their kith and kin carried olF by a cowardly
rabble of semi- Arabs, and dared not raise a protesting hand,
were but lately dying to a man in Somaliland to uphold the
British Flag.

In the department of finance we could not escape the
maelstrom caused by a whirling race enjoying its first hours
of liberty. The mind so long used to bales of unbleached
calico, beads, salt, and brass-wire, found it difficult to
commence a cash-book and ledger.

Calico, the bulky currency of yesterday, which at times
became the prey of rapacious white ants and rats, used to be
carefully guarded in a mud hut, while, in a similar erection
close at hand, austere policemen watched over captured men-
hunters. When I closed my last year's accounts of John Bull
and Co., at the once vilest slave-centre in Nyasaland, they
showed a total of no less than £25fi00 received from direct
taxation in one district, where such a thing as a penny had
never been heard of when we first made the acquaintance of
its inhabitants ; and this substantial contribution towards the
maintenance of good government was raised in one of the
least-advanced districts of the Protectorate.

As the black people advanced, new methods had perforce
to be introduced. The old rule of thumb, rough common
sense, patriarchal form of government, had to give way to
more organised methods as European and Indian subjects
came on the scene and entered into the life and trade which
followed on the suppression of lawlessness.

The pioneer had to give place to trained officials, well
instructed in the Law of Evidence. The handful of white
men, who formerly held tens of thousands of coloured people
in check, had been unable to study the fine distinctions which
European law makes in judging the crime of "murder."" If

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INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

life had been wilfully taken, the fact had to be recognised
and punished at once, or a tribe might be annihilated. The
slightest leak had to be stopped^ not merely checked ; pestilent
weeds rooted up, not cut down. From refusing to a white
man the ordinary courtesy a native would have readily given
in his wild state to his chief, or any one in authority, there
is but a short step to hustling women off the pavement and
worse. It is one thing to head an anti-slavery deputation to
an over-worked Colonial Secretary, but a vastly different
matter to be on the spot when wholly new machinery is being
brought into use ; and it is easy, as every permanent official
knows too well, to pull the wrong lever and wreck a province.

There was no booming of Nyasaland; its progress was
rapid, but without ostentation. No gold-mines blinded the
eyes of settlers to the profits of agriculture, the best of all
foundations for a colony. " Keep to the land was the rally-
ing cry, and soon coffee was produced that realised fancy
prices, though the young industry was crippled for a time
through want of knowledge and capital, shortage of labour
in the proper season, and various insect pests.

Every ounce of goods in transport was at first carried on
men's heads, until it became impossible to keep the clock
back any longer, and the first sod of a railway was cut.

At the very spot where the captain's boy fell overboard,
and we were stranded on the sandbanks, a target for sneaking
natives behind bushes on the banks, railway trucks now roll
over the river on a bridge. Where once stood the famous
stockade of young Chikusi, who, in revenge for the murder
of his relative by a white man, attempted to seize the white
women at Bl an tyre, Government offices, stores, railway station,
and tennis-courts are crowded together in the usual up-to-
date style.

The unhealthy reeds and marshes, through v/hich we were
forced to travel in narrow canoes, are now forsaken for a
rapid passage in a luxuriously upholstered railway carriage,

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INDTJSTRIAI. DEVELOPMENT

and one may get decent lunch en route. In place of a
long weary line of over-weighted black men, toiling up the
steep ascent to the Shire Highlands, a locomotive drags
hundreds of tons of merchandise over hill and dale. Where
I looked with admiration at that large herd of elephants,
quietly feeding in the marsh near Chiromo, may now be
seen acres of cotton plantations, and the traveller would
be more likely to meet a motor-car than an elephant.

In Blantyre, where they stole the ivory out of the store
during my first visit, and where there lived but two Europeans
besides missionaries, you may collide with agile telegraph-
boys, be knocked down by natives in European costume,
riding home from business on bicycles ; or be jostled by
some over-anxious first-class passenger rushing to catch the
Eastern express, armed with Cook's coupons to London,
England. I have but to drop a newspaper into the pillar-
box at the top of any road, and I may be certain of cheering
up some chum on distant Tanganyika at a scheduled date,
with the details of yesterday's flight across the Channel.

When listening to the legend about the man from
Katanga, with copper — who drank at the secret well, causing
the Tanganyika to overflow the plain — I little thought of
living to see two railways being built with the object of
removing thousands of tons of copper and other minerals
which are being smelted at that spot, for the markets of
the world.

Explorers, churchmen, and statesmen, each in their respec-
tive spheres, have originated new movements, and maintained
them at ever-increasing speed ; but science, philanthropy,
and law are by no means the only influences which have
been at work in Equatorial Africa. Commerce was early
awake to the vast possibilities of the Interior, and sent
a fine body of representatives to bring under cultivation
the almost virgin soil ! Men with but limited capital sank
their all in the enterprise, working from daylight to dark

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INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

in unhealthy places, turning up the ground and planting the
coffee bean.

They saw tens of thousands of yards of calico being
annually used by the black population for clothing, and
they made the land produce tons of the raw material, which
an expert lately declared to be " better than the Egyptians
could grow from their own seed."

They observed the broad-leaved tobacco-plant growing
near most villages, and at once conceived the idea of com-
peting with Havana. Expensive experiments were patiently
carried on by our commercial pioneers, with varying results.
Excessive rains, which washed away most of the rich surface-
soil as soon as the dense vegetation was cleared, were
followed by periods of drought, when the pitiless sun blackened
whole plantations ; but the latest report states that better
American tobacco is now grown than can be produced in
the United States. If this is true, none will be more pleased
than our energetic kinsmen across the Atlantic, to know
that such a young community has taken on the task of
" beating creation.''

Wc should, I think, altogether miss the mark if we simply
attempted to tabulate the work of these men in columns
of £ s. d., or trade-returns. To any thinking man it must
be apparent that, in the achievement of these commercial
successes, the rising generation of coloured men are being
trained in the healthy school of exercise and strict discipline,
their masters being men who let them understand that they
have come not merely to emancipate them from slavery, but
in pursuit of wholesome enterprises of their own. Thrift,
industry, and perseverance are lessons learnt by thousands
whose motto had previously been : What cannot be done
to-day can be done to-morrow, or next year."

On the land — the best of all places for the population of an
awakening country — and brushing against our hardy sons of
toil, these Africans acquired many new virtues, and those who

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INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

embraced Christianity in any of its various forms were at once
called upon in daily life to put into practice the lessons learned
in their churches. When seeing coffee-berries drop off their
trees, killed by the dreaded borer insect, and the labour
of three years wrecked in a night, our agricultural friends
could scarcely be expected to tolerate much merely emotional
religion during the uprooting process. They needed sterling
good workers, and those natives, whose first thoughts had been
directed by missionaries, learned many a new and valuable
lesson amongst the cotton-bushes, which tended to make their
civilisation very real. We have much to thank the planters
for in Nyasaland.

These are not events of the past century, but of yesterday
and to-day. Africa is compiling history, not by single pages,
but in whole volumes at a stroke. The grass growing around
Mary Moffafs grave, by the rushing Zambezi, is daily blackened
by the smoke from river- steam boats, whose almost ceaseless
paddles revolve in a mist, typical of the days when she closed
her eyes, vainly endeavouring to penetrate the dense fog
enshrouding a Continent. As she sat on the Zambezi banks —
watching uprooted palm trees and reedy islets floating past to
the ocean, brought down from far-distant solitary places up
the river, beyond the thunders of the Zambezi Falls — did she
ever imagine that, before the letters on her tombstone had
mouldered, that very chasm would be crossed by a hissing
locomotive, rushing towards the Equator, and scaring into
the bush with its shrill whistle, animals of species now fast
becoming extinct ?

What a series of moving pictures ! — 'and one chafes at the
thought that the light must go out, and we must come to the
end of the film. Some one else must photograph the future
scenes. Some of us would fain live on, and fain commence
another task, such as we imagine needs to be undertaken in
other parts of Africa.

At present I live in the past. When I take off a boot

SS2

INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

in the quiet of my chamber, I seem to hear an invisible
companion whispering, " You've got no toes ! " and on
instinctively challenging the assertion, I am met with the
discovery, " You're white all over ! "

Amid the prattle of romping children, in the sweet fresh-
mown grass, I hear the warning of my little black boy —
" Master ! never sleep again in grass, plenty fire ! " A group
of village girls, dancing on the green, around a street organ,
brings back to my mind the dark-brown lass whose dance was
followed by that cruel night attack, and I wonder if the scar
remained, or how long she lived, waiting for an answer to her —
" When will you come back ? " The past and present seem
without a clear dividing line, and yet it is a long step from a
slave chain to railway couplings.

At one time we expected that Equatorial Africa would
have to be transformed by influences coming from the Cape
and up the Nile, that there would be a gradual education
of tribe after tribe, light and reason, by easy degrees, dis-
placing savagery. But the exact opposite occurred.

Nyasaland was regenerated from within. The initial
blow which set them free came from without, but all the
rest was built up on the remains of its own old institutions,
wrecked by the slave-raiders, and surrounded by tribes who
continued to live in semi-savagery long after Nyasaland
awoke from slumber.

The immediate need for room to expand was felt by an
awakened tribe; they wanted to know what existed in the
regions beyond; and as I saw some Nyasaland soldiers in
khaki lying on the grass in a London park, surrounded by
laughing white girls, I thought their desire had been fairly
well gratified, although the prudence of giving them so much
scope has been seriously questioned by experienced men.

I have been repeatedly asked what effect a visit to
Europe has on a native, and I have no hesitation in reply-
ing : It does them harm, from the very fact that people do

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INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

not keep them in their proper places. They are completely
spoiled. The innocent freedom of our women is totally
foreign to them, and is misunderstood. There is nothing
gained by bringing them to these countries, for everything
they see is too wonderful for their brains to grasp. A few
facts are indelibly fixed in their minds, such as the intensely
cold wind ; or the great show of meat ; or the hosts of
people and houses: nearly everything else soon vanishes
from their conversation. Having received many foolish
attentions from both sexes, they return with what is known
as " swollen head," and are utterly useless as servants, look-
ing on work as something for pagans to do.

One of these spoilt boys, who had been taken to England
by his master, returned not long since to Blantyre, and met
an old acquaintance, who inquired in the usual nanner,
" Friend, what is the news of Europe ? " The old chum,
now clad in boots, trousers, coat, and hat, all looking dis-
reputable, turned towards the questioner with a look of
scorn, replying in ready English, " Who the devil are you ?
Clear out ! "

That answer gives a not unfair idea of the demoralisation
of the native which too often results from unrestrained
contact with large numbers of Europeans, and the tens of
thousands who travel to South Africa for work return home
very much the worse for their introduction to other tribes.
They lose all desire to return to the land, thus becoming
more dependent on a demand for other kinds of labour;
when this fails, there is aggravated suffering from want, for
the food supply is gradually being diminished. The women
who are left at home are quite unable to keep the family
gardens cultivated, and the majority of the people are com-
pelled to live from hand to mouth ; whereas in former days
each family possessed its own grain stores, their forefathers
having taught them that this was the natural, safe, and
happiest manner of living. The adventurer from the tribe

334

I

INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

comes back from the rich goldfields with fancy blankets,
cheap watches, brown-paper boots, common tin trunks, and
briar pipes, only to learn in a few months, by bitter experi-
ence, the old lesson that " A man's happiness does not con-
sist in the abundance of things which he possesses."

It is now extremely rare to see the primitive hand-loom
at work in a Nyasaland village. The custom of smelting
iron ore, forging hoes and axes, is fast being supplanted by
trade goods imported in thousands. The rising generations
know scarcely anything about woodcraft, and the number of
curative herbs in use is fast decreasing.

But there is much to be said on the other side. All
natives are not like those whom I have just described.
There are tens of thousands who have thrown away many
of their old vile customs, and who are honestly trying to
move upward out of the gloom which for so many centuries
has enshrouded their race. Since Bishop Hannington was
murdered by order of the Uganda king, hundreds of
thousands of religious books have been purchased by his
subjects, and not a few have laid down their lives in defence
of the truths the martyred Bishop endeavoured to teach
them. Throughout the length and breadth of Nyasaland,
it would be difficult to find a village which has not come
under the influence of Christian missions. Their Mork, like
that of all other human agencies, has many weak spots, but
all those who have been privileged to see beneath the surface,
and who can bear in mind the youth of these organisations,
know it has been aptly described as " on the side of the
angels."

No matter what our own private belief may be, we are
bound to recognise the great work done by our fellow country-
men who have penetrated Africa in order to preach their creeds,
and as one writer has said : —

"One of the most sublime illustrations of consecration to
a great cause has been the fact that volunteers for missionary

337

INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT

service in Africa have doubled and quadrupled as one after
another of those who had previously gone out laid themselves
down to die. No clash of arms has ever revealed nobler
courage and fuller persistence of purpose than modern missions
in Africa. Yet there may be something nobler in carefully
studying the laws of health in tropics, and going there to
live, rather than in hazarding life by ignorance, and going
there to die. Many lives might doubtless have been saved
if men had observed the limitation of African environment;
but it was almost inevitable in many low coast stations in
the tropics, and in the great waterways of the interior, that
lives should have been sacrified."

Dr. Scott Keltie, I think, put the whole matter of the
different agencies into a nutshell when he said :

"In the building up of our world-wide Empire we have
no doubt done many things which we ought not to have
done, and left undone many things which we ought to have
done. Yet the name of our country still stands high among
our less advanced brothers in Africa, for many of those
qualities which exalt a nation.""

338

CHAPTER XX

Traits of Character — Resources of the Country

A FEW remarks about the natives may not be out of
place in our closing chapter ; but let me say at once
that my observations must not be taken as applicable
to all Africans; they deal exclusively with those amongst
whom I travelled, and in the midst of whom I lived for
many years.

Probably no two persons look at the natives from exactly
the same standpoint, but there are certain outstanding-
characteristics obvious to all, except the man who merely
rushes through their country on business or pleasure. One
writer, I think, has put the matter in a nutshell : " The
negroes not yet spoiled by contact with the slave trade are
distinguished for friendliness and good common sense. Some
can be guilty of great wickedness, and seem to think little
about it. Others perform actions as unmistakably good
with no self-complacency, and if one calculated all the
good deeds and all the bad ones one came across, one might
think them extremely good or bad, instead of calling them,
like ourselves, curious compounds of good and evil."

They have been described as " selfish, inhospitable,
intensely avaricious, and treacherous"; but none of these
adjectives apply to the people I have met — not at least to
any one tribe taken collectively ; perhaps the Wagogo came
the nearest to deserving them. Wherever I have been, any
man could have gone, provided he was civil and paid re-
spectful deference to the ordinary rules which governed the
social life of the different tribes. That they are highly super-

339

TRAITS OF CHARACTER

stitious is not to be wondered at. Many of their customs
are based on sound principles, but have been, like many of
our own, distorted out of all recognition. The ordeal by
poison has perhaps received a too sweeping condemnation,
for something of the kind was almost a necessity before we
supplanted it with Courts of Justice, A peaceful social life
could not have existed without some means of obtaining a
decision against which none would rebel.

Neither chiefs nor people possessed the power of procur-
ing witnesses of crime, and it would have puzzled our best
judges to satisfy clamouring plaintiffs, half mad with rage
over some terrible wrong, when no proofs of guilt had been
laid before them which would justify a conviction. Yet an
acquittal was equally impossible. A simple wave of the
hand would by no means have dismissed the case ; on the
contrary, it would have been a direct incentive to fresh
crime. Chiefs dared not permit the tribesmen to take
law into their own hands, and when it was impossible to
separate the truth from falsehood, they allowed an appeal
to the only Caesar, viz. the " poison ordeal.^"* To that
tribunal all rendered absolute submission. No people can
exist without a court of final appeal, and until we came
and set up the machinery of our law, it is not easy to
imagine what other course was open to those half-civilised
races.

For honesty they compare favourably with any of the
white races. I question if stealing, as a means of getting a
living, was ever known to them before our advent. The
charge of ingratitude may be dismissed at once, when we
understand that the black man considers it an act of supreme
folly to give away anything. It is not because he is alto-
gether selfish, but because he considers it stupid, and perhaps
as a bribe.

This feeling; will be better understood when we bear in

mind that they are practically independent of each other.

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TRAITS OF CHARACTER

A gift seems to them as strange a thing as we should think
it if we saw a cow pluck up grass and give it to her
companion. And yet they often give one another little
things ; but it is treated more as an act of shay-ing with one
another something which has by good luck come into their
possession, and to which some one else has a partial right.
Some people may be inclined to call this Socialism. What-
ever name you give to it, the fact remains, and not a few
grave errors are made by Europeans who fail to understand
what is the real feeling of these races when they appear
ungrateful for gifts of any kind. Personally, I do not re-
member ever winning either their confidence or good ser-
vice except by justice and fair recompense for work done.
Although I had many loyal, faithful, and brave servants,
there was always a great gulf between us, and whenever it
is a question of white or black, they naturally cling to their
own colour, no matter how long they may have been attached
to you.

A native was once asked by his own master, in my presence,
whether, in case of a rising against Europeans, he would
kill him, and he replied : " No ! never. But I would go over
to those other white men and kill them if I could, and their
boys would come here and kill you.'' That is probably
exactly what would happen in the majority of cases. " We
do not think of to-morrow,'"* is a common expression amongst
them from childhood. It is " now^ the present." Anticipa-
tion is not in their case ''half the pleasure of life."

Dr. Moloney, when attempting to drill them, was quick
to observe that " the average black is incapable of concen-
trating his attention on any one thing for more than a few
consecutive minutes ; his train of continued thought is re-
markable for its brevity ; his memory concerning that which
the white man would have him remember is that of a little
child. He has a firmly rooted idea that medicine is at the
back of all good shooting, and trusts, in his preliminary stages,

341

TRAITS OF CHARACTER

rather to the efficacy of an elephant's hair plaited around the
stock of his rifle than to his own great physical advantage
of fine sight. On the other hand, he is imitative to a degree,
and manipulates his rifle well. It receives an amount of care
and solicitude which betokens a conviction of its possibilities.
He is a fatalist, and at his best makes a good soldier.""

Probably every pioneer will endorse the remarks on poly-
gamy which were printed in a Nyasaland mission paper : —

"The question is one fruitful of much debate in some
circles. In Europe, the matter as to the difficulty of dealing
with polygamy is apt to be confused by a sentimental appeal
such as our knowledge of African thought and feeling show
to be plainly beside the question. People at home, for in-
stance, say, ' If you compel a polygamist to give up his harem,
a cruelty is inflicted on the discarded wives."* It might be so
if the wives were not allowed to seek other husbands. Yet
we know of no veto on their doing this ; while as to the
assumption that the discarded wives will consider themselves
injured, give themselves up to despair, or even deeply grieve,
because a man who is father to their children no longer re-
quires them as his partners, it may be dismissed as wholly
contrary to facts as we meet with them here. The generality
of heathen African women appear to me to be by no means
unready for a change when their husbands propose separation,
not troubling themselves much to inquire into the reason why
their spouses are tired of them, provided they themselves are
not accused of unfaithfulness. It is a mistake, certainly, to
suppose that in heathen marriages in Nyasaland any real deep
feeling of attachment on the part of a wife towards a husband
who has other wives exists as a rule. Occasionally, it may be
granted, such a feeling will be found ; but these cases are the
exceptions, not the rule."

It is sometimes asked whether they ever sell their children
for gain. We cannot do better than quote a Nyasaland mis-
sionary of great experience. He says : —

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TRAITS OF CHARACTER

"Yes! they do, but only under the stress of famine, or
under very peculiar circumstances. In the former case only
when the famine is intense, and then not to get filthy lucre,
but to preserve life, and when they do it, leaving a strong
feeling against the man who does it.

" Exceptional circumstances, as, for instance, the redeeming
of a chief member of the clan. Better a few go into captivity
than the head of the clan be disgraced. All boys and mothers
feel the propriety of this.

" It is a terrible thing to be without kindred in this land,
and as terrible a thing, in its degree, to see your clan lopped
of its strong men by a raid. Another time, a son by a slave
woman was paid for the ransom of his father ; it was managed
by the clan, and the father was not asked. Better we all fall
this day, and not the able-bodied man.

"There was also the system of giving over a sister's son
in pledge. A lawsuit threatens to eat up a family already
weakened as above, by a raid ; something, or some one, must
be paid, or extremes suffered. A benefactor is found to ad-
vance an ox or slave ; he may not want a pledge, but his
heir, who has not the same sympathies, may ; then any near
relation may be, and was, given in pledge to serve him.

" Again, any one was forced to assent to giving up a near
relative when a crime had been committed by one of the
family and this crime was brought home to one amongst them.
This case is much the same as above, only no friend in need
can be found ; some person has to be given up ' willy-nilly.'
We must bear in mind that, however degraded a thing the
sale of a son by a slave may be, we must try to realise the
transaction to be a wholly different thing from saying that
a man is devoid of affection to his family. Nowhere in all
this is there any selling of a child ' for a pair of shoes,"* and,
elsewhere than in Africa, hunger has often made the 'eye
of a mother evil towards the child at the breast.'

" So far as to inhuman conduct to children : but is there

343

TRAITS OF CHARACTER

room for any strong attachment, is there any romance about
the family roof- tree, even if they do not sell each other like
live-stock ?

" Positively, the mother is more than willing to feed her
child, not only in childhood, but often long after; she is
ready to fight his battles against any one, and certainly in
most cases the boy is the light of his mother's eyes.

When the child goes off" on a journey, the mother awaits
his return anxiously; sometimes, it may be, making a vow
not to shave her head until he returns ; on his return, she
goes through a wild dance of joy, often casting white ash,
or flour, over herself, and making a shrill noise : ' Lululuta.'
She clasps her child round the body, sometimes round
the neck, herself kneeling; she sees nothing of onlookers,
of white man, or steamer. Then she must be poor indeed
if she cannot provide porridge enough for him, and a friend
or two. Often she may exercise a very doubtful influence
over her offspring; one may depreciate the standard of
affection, but travail, years of pinching, hoeing, and backache
for him, do not issue in bitterness or estrangement; they
must, to a certain extent, grace her with the rank of a
mother, even in the face of the civilised world.

" Then there is the abandonment in grief when the child
dies ; the long wail going on through the night, the
longing to look on the face of the dead. It is a debt
of sorrow, paid to the full at the time, and then the
bitterness is a good deal gone. The self-abandonment is
complete, the sympathy with death an effbrt of the whole
nature. If the body does not come home, then the solace
of the mourning is lacking. Often relatives come in with
claims for payment, but the sordid surroundings cannot hide
the parent's feelings.

"The solidarity of family life is brought out when
competitors arise on the field, in the form of European
offers of work, or school, carrying as they do so many

TRAITS OF CHARACTER

advantages. Do the home ties vanish like morning mists?
No ! few boys care to be away from home any length of
time. I have never known a boy willing to leave his people
at the time of a funeral, or when war was impending, and
the action of both men and boys leaves me with the im-
pression that, so far from their home life being a blank to
them, it is all in all, and very likely they can spend years
amidst all we can offer of a parallel kind, and yet feel it all
like a play at the theatre. The reality of life comes in news
of a death at home, a family quarrel, or a raid — and what
the man has been dallying with ceases to interest him. ' I
must have leave on most important family business.'

"The same feeling is there, with many a slave, or slave
boy, who laughs and chatters merrily enough. The white
men come and go, the lad may have many a dance and
many a journey with those who seem near him, but nothing-
can fill the place of his mother, his mother's brother, his own
elder brother and sister, and his father — ' Something that goes
deeper than his dinner.' "

The reader may wonder whether, in this land of conflicting
religions, there is any general belief in a Creator common to
most Africans.

Without attempting to define the various shades of their
ideas, I may say that they appear to place on a pedestal a
Creator who, to them, is a Being gifted with absolute power,
the Chief of Chiefs. With Him the inhabitants of earth can
have no direct dealings. Nothing can be done to alter His
wishes; no sacrifice could bribe Him. He is both invisible
and inaccessible.

After death, they imagine the spirits live in a world
apart from the Creator, but they are granted certain powers,
which are exercised for or against men on earth, their good
offices being obtainable, and their anger appeased, by sacrifice.
Appeals to spirits are not lightly made, and are of a simple

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TRAITS OF CHARACTER

nature, such as the placing of a little flour near their graves.
When distressed by a great bereavement or other sorrow,
they piteously call the departed by name, as did the girl
who leaped from the clilf calling, " Amai ! Amai I "

This implicit faith in the good intentions of departed
spirits made them criticise the repeated supplications as
practised in mission churches. They asked : " Why do
you keep on praying to your God ? Is He always watching
for an opportunity to inj ure you, or stop your rain ? Does
He get tired of preventing bad spirits putting medicine into
your porridge? Our spirits never sleep, and we let them
alone as much as possible.'*''

I have never met an African agnostic, and some of the
most advanced pupils in mission colleges are known to cHng
to many of their old ideas of a future life in preference to
ours. There seems no death in their creed ; it is merely a
transformation. The lofty mountain peak is not looked on
with a sense of awe because its summit is lost in cloud-land, but
rather because it is the watch-tower of some departed chiefs
spirit. A massive block of granite is not simply inanimate
stone to them ; it holds the still beating heart and sleepless
eyes of some dead warrior. The distant stars are not balls
of fire, but the ever-watchful retinue of the great " Chiuta "''*
(God). Sneaking, blood-thirsty leopards are not animals, but
assumed disguises of evil spirits intent on drinking blood.

Death ? Annihilation ? It is as unthinkable to them
as that the sun does not revolve around the earth. To tell
them there is a Creator adds nothing to their knowledge.
That they shall live again ! They treat it as gratuitous
information. That the Christian'*s God is a Father ! They
doubt whether you yourself believe it, judging by your
repeated solicitations for His assistance. Tell them they
are wrong — they ^vill answer that they had nothing to do
with creation and that they are children. Endeavour to
impress on them that they will be punished after death if

348

TRAITS OF CHARACTER

they do this or neglect the other, the invariable reply would
be : " Nothing can hurt me unless the spirits get permission
from God, and if He wished to kill me I am powerless."
Attempt to tell them anything beyond what they have always
believed, and you get the direct challenge, as I did — " How
do you knozo?^^ They see nature is apparently governed,
but by whom or what ? To them the hand is invisible, but
nevertheless there all the time.

Before the pen is laid down, some attempt must be made
to answer a question which naturally arises, for whatever the
past may have been, ^ve are more interested in the future.
Can Europeans hope to live in the lands I have been describ-
ing, and rear their offspring ?

In the early days it was difficult ; the life was altogether too
rough, necessaries being reduced to a minimum. Constant
anxiety, coupled with ignorance of what to use for the best
and what to avoid as detrimental to health, brought premature
old age to many settlers, if it did not cause complete collapse.
But with present-day comforts one could live on the higher
plateaux, although it is questionable whether our race would
not physically deteriorate.

There is no getting away from the fact that the mosquito,
even the most harmless species, is a great nuisance in everyday
life; and, bearing in mind that to-day residents in some of
England's most beautiful seaside resorts are compelled to sleep
under mosquito-curtains, it seems difficult to look forward to
a time when the pests will be eliminated from the regions
under review.

But these are trifles, and cannot stand in the way of
progress. The agricultural prospects would be good if only
the means of transport were improved. At present it is so
expensive that it would be a mistake to invest too much capital
in agi'icultural ventures far removed from the coast, especially
as the price of labour is tending upwards.

349

RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY

So far as Nyasaland is concerned, the country is nearly out
of the running, on account of the want of railway communica-
tion with the coast. There is a small railway commencing up-
country near the junction of British and Portuguese territory,
and running up as far as Blantyre in the Shire Highlands, but
this is simply playing with the country. It is astonishing that
John Bull has not long ago ordered the railway to be con-
structed up to Lake Nyasa and down to Beira, or negotiated
with Portugal for its extension to Quelimane, with a lease of
the port, to the financial benefit of both countries. If Nyasa-
land is ever to become a valuable asset to the Empire, the
railway ought at once to be constructed; otherwise, from a
financial point of view, there seems no alternative but to turn
the whole population into labourers for the northern and
southern mines. It is simply a question of which will pay
best in the long run, and I hope the casting vote will be given
to the building up of a solid foundation on agriculture ; but
this can only be accomplished by connecting the plantations
with some coast port.

So far I have said nothing about minerals, which are
known to exist in large quantities, e,g. limestone, coal, iron,
graphite, and galena. Gold, silver, and precious stones have been
found in small quantities, but the general geological formation
of Nyasaland is not attractive. I cannot forget the immense
sandstone deposits at South Tanganyika, traversed by quartz
veins, and I have always regretted not having had time to pro-
spect for gold in that region, as it seemed a most attractive field
for geological study, and there is no reason why we may not
have another Band not far from the Lofu Biver.^ But this
is speculative, and I must not pursue the fascinating subject.

The basins containing the great lakes are gradually filling up
with debris washed down by the torrential rains, but it must
take centuries to reduce those inland seas to long river-courses.

I have designedly refrained from touching on the pheno-
^ Since this was written the Abercorn gold reefs have been discovered.

350

RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY

menal advance made in the East African Protectorate and
Uganda, as they are countries through which I have not
travelled ; but I know enough of them to be sure that each
would require a separate volume to do it justice, and the
writer should be one of the old brigade who lived in the days
of Mack ay.

We must grapple successfully with the sleeping sickness,
if we are to save some of the African races from extinction,
and to preserve the enormous labour supply which is so
necessary to the country during its early competition with
the open markets of the world. As the great Mitamba
forests are attacked by our woodmen in search of pulp
to supply the ever-increasing demand for paper, and the
equatorial backbone of Africa yields up its untold mineral
wealth, not only its own internal labour supply will be re-
quired, but the Chinaman, the Japanese, and the Indian
will swarm to the busy heart of a too long dead continent.
Then will those mighty streams, the Nile and the Congo,
bear down to the ocean flotillas carrying ebony, teak, and
mahogany from the present haunts of the Pigmies and the
lordly elephant. The "Darkest Africa" of Stanley will
export its millions of tons of vegetable and mineral oil,
rubber, ground-nuts, millet, rice, cotton, sugar, coftee, corn,
spices, fibres, tobacco, and a host of other valuable products,
long after the supply of ivory, that old curse of the land,
has ceased to exist; and European politicians already born
may be called upon to regulate an ever-increasing flow of
wealth to this country from the land which, but yesterday,
was shrouded in gloom and sorrow, where the hideous slave
trade set every man"'s hand against his brother, and life was
little better than a living death.

The Hebrew prophet spoke of " a nation born in a day,"
and we instinctively turn our eyes eastwards. May we not
look nearer home to what is no longer "Dark Africa," but
a land we know, and whose possibilities make us shudder

351

RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY

as we think of the driving force now being generated, and
beginning to be applied at every point of its social
economy ?

A hush seems to pervade a congregation of men and
women in this land who think of Africa, when one asks:
What of the race problem? White or black? Which
wins? The blacks are thronging to the mines, where they
compete with white labour, abandoning their natural and
healthy occupation of agriculture. What will become of
the native races under these new conditions? Will they
dwindle and decay, like the Maori and the Red Indians?

And what is to become of the land which they are
ceasing to cultivate, and of the far larger tracts which they
have never cultivated ? Countless numbers of wild animals
gallop over millions of acres of silent forest land in Africa,
which yields not an ounce of food for the human race, or
contributes a penny towards the administration of the Pro-
tectorate.

Could we not encourage men from our own country to
go in and possess these lands, the only title-deed required
being a pair of willing hands and capital to develop industry ?
Would it not be wise to open these doors as wide as possible
to the manhood of our overcrowded towns? It is not so
much the attention of the Revenue Collector and Surveyor
which is appreciated by young planters, as the encouraging
assistance of a sympathetic Governor whose interest in each
separate empire-builder's little try is felt to be as keen as
his love of sport. If every possible inducement is given to
good men to settle around the great lakes, our Protectorates
will the sooner become a valuable asset to the old country,
worth treble the amount received from it during the early
stages of their childhood.

We cannot afford to waste time. Are we not called on

to act as well as think in continents ? If there still remain

slave chains in any portion of Africa, there are willing hands

352

RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY

ready to snap them. It matters nought if there exist a
thousand counterparts of Tip-pu-Tib, there are not wanting
men and women who will show them " rain-clouds in the
sky. We know the age of romance, courage, and adventure
did not pass away with the Crusaders. Would not some of
the people who dash along our roads in motor-cars just as
readily kneel down in a dirty African village by the side of
a black maiden, and stitch up her lacerated breast, if there
was no one else to do it for her, and no one to see them
do it?

What may seem too like a lack of commercial enterprise
is not difficult to understand when one sees British officers
and troops transported from one African Protectorate to
another under a foreign flag, because one British company
after another cannot make its steamers pay against the com-
petition of a foreign line subsidised by a foreign government.

Cannot my countrymen realise that the commercial invasion
on terra-firma and ocean highways is an accomplished fact,
whilst the aerial one is a theory ? Did we sweep the hordes
of Rugaruga out of those thorny stockades, and, in isolation,
fight malaria and poisoned arrows for a quarter of a century,
in order that some other nation might establish markets for
their manufacturers ?

If at home there is fear of our national glory departing,
there is none away yonder under the Southern Cross from
snow-clad Ruenzori peaks to the ocean. From every canvas
tent, every mud hut, forest camp, and swamp, pioneers of
civilisation send words of cheer back to the home land. If
they are handicapped by the ravages of fever, they fight on,
thinking only of a one-armed man who triumphed at Trafalgar.
When the oppression of an isolated life makes the heart tired,
they think of the lonely traveller who, year after year, plodded
on and on, always penetrating deeper and deeper into the
great unknown, and at last, worn out by disease amongst the
marshes of Bangweolo, knelt down by his bedside, surrounded

353 T

RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY

by none but black men, and died with his face to the goal.
The picture cheers them up, and the Cape Express, thundering
across the Zambezi, tells them that " Africa's open sore " has
been healed in British dominions, and David Livingstone's
appeal answered.

Yes, indeed ! answered far beyond his loftiest flights of
faith. An upright magistracy and honest officials have sup-
planted the poison ordeal and slave chain. Laughter, dance,
and song make the evenings welcomed by ten thousands of
young Africans, who in the old hideous times were compelled
to restrain their youthful desire to burst into merriment as
the sun set, and forced to creep away in terror out of the
reach of unseen enemies.

It was all work worth doing. Old memories of fever,
fatigue, isolation from cultured companionship with kith and
kin, do not count. What does count is the echo of children's
voices which the waves often bring to me as I sit on the sea-
beach, echoes of merry ringing laughter, and the rhythmic
beating of distant village drums. These sounds are inaudible
to the holiday crowd passing along the parade. They are
vibrations which can only be caught by an ear which, long
ago, listened to the cry of black men and tried to answer it.
To my comrades still in the field I repeat the farewell of that
British sailor at Zanzibar in 1882—" So long ! "

354

INDEX

A

Africa, the geography of, 20
African humour, 26

travel, fascination of, 44

Agricultural products of the Warundi,
222

Agriculture and transport, 349
Albert Edward Nyanza, the, 221
Alexandria, bombardment of, 21
Alston, Lieut., 312
Amambwi, the, 116
Ancestor worship, 208
Angoni, the, 61, 135, 280

Indaba, an, 301

Antelopes, 145

Ants, ferocious, 106

Arab system of slave-raiding, 62

Arabs, courtesy of the, 245

hostility of the, 81

and Germans, 157

Aruwimi River, the, 180

Ashe, Mr., 22

Awemba, the, 89, 119, 256

B

Baba Daud and Bula Matali, 75
Baby, a deserted Walungu, 193
Bachelors' quarters, 123
Barthelot, 174

Bu-okets for catching fish, 304
Belgian officers on the Congo, 180
Belgians and Arabs, 242
Big-game hunting, 291
Birds, aquatic, of the Rusizi River,
232

of Lake Tanganyika, 232,

217

Bitumen at Ujiji, 79

Blake, Mr. , Dutch missionary, 301

Blantyre, 136

transformed, 330

Boiling springs, 207
Boots, natives and the white man's, 42
Boyce, Dr., murder of, 315
Breaking the twig, a sign of friend-
ship, 161

Brooks, Arthur, and his murderer,
39, 165

Buffalo, escape from an enraged, 61
Buganda, the, and Bp. Hannington, 20
Bush, hunting in the, 58
Bushbuck fighting, 145

C

Cannibal, a, 222

Canoes, 77

Cape to Cairo, 242

telegraph, 278

Cash, African equivalent for, 25
" Cat's-cradle," the game of, 283
Cathedral, a beautiful,native-built, 327
Chambezi River, the, 122
Character, an analysis of the native,
339

Characteristics of the natives, 31
Charms, belief in, 67
" Chikote " or hide whip, 84
Chikusi, 143

Children, education of, 289

parental feeling towards, 343

Children's games, 283
Chunyo, 53
Climate, 122

Coast and Interior, people of the,
compared, 40

INDEX

Coffee, cultivation of, 329
Commercial enterprise, lack of, 353
Congo, Belgian officers on the, 180

State officials, the, 245

Cotton-growing, 331
Creator, belief in a, 847
Crocodiles, a conjuror of, 229

quartz found in the stomach

of, 226

Currency, past and present, 328
D

Dance, an impromptu, 250
Delimitation negotiations, 316
Developing the land, need for, 352
Dineen, Dr., 107

Disease amongst the Walungu, 198
Doctor and the lion, 291
"Domestic slaves," 40
Duel, a, 108

Dutch Reformed Church, the, 304
D'zeoli, 301

E

Earthquake shocks, 208

Eclipse of the moon, an, 297

Educational successes, 275

Elephants, 143 ; an invasion by, 120 ;
hunting, 292 ; shooting, 307 ; de-
structive, 318

Elmslie, Dr., influence of, 280

Emin Pasha, 180

F

"Father David," 141
Fauna of the Rusizi neighbourhood,
233

Fetish heaps, 69

Fish, baskets for catching, 304

Food, the necessity for good, 32

Forest, the African, 45

Fort Maguire, 300

Fotheringham, defender of Wan-

konde, 277
Free Church of Scotland men, tact

of the, 281
Future life, belief in a, 347

C

Game and sport, 77, 89, 95, 122

pits, danger from, 187

Games, children's, 283
Geographical problems, 154
Germans in Africa, the, 157
Gifts, how regarded by the natives,

341
Giraffes, 167

Gold-fields, labour in the, 324

Goma Mountains, 70

Good News, building the, 90 ;

launch, 102
Gordon of Uganda, 22
Graphite, 212

H

Hammock, travelling by, 150
Hannington, Bishop, 22
Hartebeeste hunting, 41
Hippopotamus, hunting the, 110, 205
Hoes, native-made, 222
Honey, 212

Hore, Captain, 19, 54, 57 ; Mrs. H., 22
and the scenery of Lake Tangan-
yika, 215
Hunting in the bush, 59

I

Images, wooden, 127, 208

Indaba, an, 189

Industrial development, 323

Industries about Tanganyika, 212

Infant mortality, 319

Insect life, 32

Iron ore, deposits of, 212

wire as a currency, 222

work amongst the Warundi, 226

Itawa Arabs, the, 255
Ivory, the value of, 49, 75 ; and
slaves, 76, 179, 221

J

Jacques, Captain, 180, 245
Jellyfish in Lake Tanganyika, 215

INDEX

Johnston, Sir Harry, 21, 191, 203, 242
Johnstone and the elephant, 292

K

Kabatawe and the hippopotamus,

101 ; and the slave-raider, 102^
Kabunda, 191

Kakungu, 259 ; capture of, 269
Karema, French station of, 105 ;

attacked by natives at, 204
Karonga, 135

Kavala Island, our base at, 88

Keltie, Dr. Scott, 338

Kidd, James, and the game pit, 187

Kilangozi or leader, a, 41

Kirk, Sir John, 23

Kitimbwa, Chief of the Walunga,

95, 189
Kitimkuru, Chief, 119
Kotakota, 135
Kwakvra River, the, 150

L

Lady Nyasa, the, 135

Lake Kiwa, 233

Law wounded, 266

Law Courts, the work of the, 321

Laws, Dr., influence of, 280

Leopards, attacked by, 235

Leza or the Creator, 208

Licence for big-game hunting, 318

Likoma Island, 295

Lions, 65 ; and the Walungu curse,
201 ; attacking tents, 281 ; hunting,
291 ; at Kotakota, 299, 317

" and leopards," the game of, 283

Livingstone and the slave-trade, 50 ;
and Stanley, 70

Mrs., grave of, 148

Lofu River, the, 89, 191

London, H.M.S., 23, 30

Luapula River, the, 314

Lusigi River, the, 70

M

Makanjira and Mponda, 135, 300
Malagarasi River, the, 68

Malaria and mosquitoes, 33
Mamba snake, the, 147
Mamboia, attack of fever at, 45
Man-eater, a, 299
Manna, 116

Manyema, the, 180 ; as cannibals,

243

Maples, death of Bishop, 309
Marine fauna of Lake Tanganyika, 79
Marriage customs of the "VValungu,
194

Masai, an encounter with, 158
Matches, natives and the, 43
Medical impostors and hona fide

practitioners, 107
" Medicine," 67, 91, 102

white man's, 163

men, influence of, 127

Mfiti or cannibal, 128, 225
Mgunda-Mkali Wilderness, the, 56
Minerals in Nyasaland, 331, 350
Mirambo, the great, 58, 61
Missions, work done by the, 337
Mkambi, 53

Mlozi and Jumbe, 87, 135, 300; cap-
ture of, 311

Moffat, Mary, 332

Moir, Mr. and Mrs. Fred, 90, 204

Monkey, a mischievous, 250

Monsoons on Lake Tanganyika, 237

Moore, death of, 216

Morambala mountain, 143

Morning Star, the, transport of,
25, 85

Mosquitoes and malaria, 33, 137, 349
Mourning, signs of genuine, 106
Mpezeni, Chief, 269, 315
Mponda, 135
M'pwapwa, 48
Msakambewa, 301
Music, African, 33
Mwasi, 300, 311

N

Native character, insight into, 46

chiefs, official treatment of,

279

INDEX

Native industries and imported goods,
337

Natives, the, how they are spoiled,
336

Noses, a difference of, 287
Nugget from Ujiji, a, 211
Nyanza, Emin Pasha at, 183
Nyasa, Lake, 122

Nyasaland, devastation of, 277 ;
rapid progress of, 329 ; natural
products of, 351

P

Packing for transport, 25
Palm-oil, 211
Parental affection, 344
Pearl mussels, 222

Penalties amongst the Amambwi,
119

Pioneer, the protection of, 187
Poison ordeal, 128, 340
Polygamy, 342
Porters, African, 25, 35
Postcard, the first, to Cairo, 312
Presents, attitude of the African as

regards, 226
"Prisoner's base" in the water, 284
Products, natural, of Nyasaland, 351
Puff-adder, death from the bite of

a, 146
Pulley, Lieut., 90
Punch as a literary tonic, 29

Q

Quelimane, 150

R

Railways, the, 329

want of, 350

Ramakukane, 141

Rees, Miss, of the Universities Mis-
sion, 296
Regatta, an African, 218
Religious progress, 337

Revenge, an act of, 253

Rhodes, Cecil, 312, 323

Roxburgh, James, 105

Rugaruga bullies, 96, 178

Ruiche River, the, 73

" Rule of the Road, the," 41

Rumaliza, 75; character of, 87, 169,

180, 204 ; and the Belgians, 242 ;

death of his wife, 270
Rusavia, Chief, 233
Rusizi River, the, 212, 232

S

Saadani, the head-man of, 39

Saidi Mwazungu, treachery of, 282,

291, 300. 311
Salisbury, Lord, and the Cape to Cairo

route, 242
Salt, 212

Salving a swamped boat, 240
Sangala, a large fish, 77, 188
Seine-fishing, 77

Shellfish and shrimps in Lake Tan-
ganyika, 215
Shire Highlands, the, 279

River, 135

Valley, the, 319

Shupanga, 147

Sickness, how it is regarded, 249
Simm, Arthur Fraser, 310
Slave-raiding, organised, 62

trade, cruelties of the, 21, 48,

98

Snakes, 145
Spirit-houses, 69
Spirits, the belief in, 347
Sponges in Lake Tanganyika, 215
Stairs, Lieut., and the sangala, 188
Stanley and Tip-pu-tib, 173

the " Stone-breaker," 75
Steel boat, building the, 82
Stevenson Road, the, 122
Stockades, 65
Stokes, Charles, 153
Storm on Lake Tanganyika, 88
Storming a stockade, 261
Storms, Captain, 179

INDEX

Sultan Jumbe, 135, 291
Surgery, native, 107
Swamped in Lake Tanganyika, 237
"Swollen heads," 334

T

Tanga, legend of the man from, 78

Tanganyika, first view of, 73; legend
of, 78 ; area of, 79 ; marine fauna,
79, 215 ; tribes about, 80 ; a storm
on, 88 ; industries about, 212 ;
scenery, 215 ; waterspouts, 237

Tattoo marks, 221

Taxes, 319

Telegraph from Cape to Cairo, 323
Telephone, a primitive, 283
Tip-pu-tib, 75 ; character of, 86, 171
Tobacco growing, 221, 331
Tom, tragic death of, 91
Transport, the difficulties of, 29
Treaty-making, 191
Trees and creepers, 211
Tribal laws, 289

spear, breaking a, 304

Tribes about Tanganyika, 80
Trivier, Captain, 185
Twins and taxes, 320

U

Ujiji, importance of, 73, 75, 168
Unyamwezi, the, 58, 61
Unyanyembe, 62

V

Vegetation, 44
Vicenti, 150

W

Wafipa, the, 98, 248

Wagogo, greed of the, 56 ; and the

Germans, 178; character of, 339
Wajiji, the, 76

Walungu, the, 89, 189 ; calamity to,
192 ; tuition of girls, 193 ; marriage
customs, 194; curse, 201

Wankonde, the, 122 ; annihilation of,
277, 312

Wanyamwezi, the, as porters, 25

Wa'nyika, legend of the, 78

Warundi, the, 221

Wasakumu, 153

Waterspouts on Lake Tanganyika,

89, 237
Watusi, the, 222
Wavinza, the, 68
Wax, 212

Wazigi Tribe, the, 221
Whitebait, 205

Wissmann, Major Von, 50, 120, 178
Witch- finder, a, 133

Y

Yao Chief, 280

Yule, James, the pioneer and hunter
262

Z

Zambezi, the, 144

Zanzibar and the slave-trade, 22

Zarafi, 300

THE END

Printed by Ballantyne, Hanson, Co
Edinburgh <^ London

Date Due

rim